Gianfranco Ferre for Man

One of my favorite Italian designer scents - it has been in my rotation since the 90's. This is how a Woody Chypre of quality should smell - complex and captivating! Truly outstanding in both quality of ingredients and composition. I consider the Vintage glass bottle to be near-perfection, with its rich, deep and dark notes of magnificent wood (dusty cedar & smooth sandalwood), earthy, dry vetiver, warm pipe tobacco, smooth lavender and other wonderful florals in the heart (sharp carnation, green jasmine & earthy geranium), warm citrus and key notes of sage, fig leaf and orris root filling out the scent pyramid in the heart. Patchouli, Oakmoss and Juniper Berries are more apparent in the Vintage formulation, as well as very nice, smooth Italian leather in the base notes (the juniper really showing late in the heart and segueing into the foundation of rich notes). There is still a light moss note in Current and both the patchouli and juniper berries are well-integrated - but more of a light wood/warm musk base. The top and heart notes are well-presented, while the depth in Vintage is gorgeous - sensual, even. Current production juice actually is still very good - brighter, more Sicilian Lemon, Petit Grain, and floral notes with a nice base of wood, musk and patchouli. It is actually rather wonderful to layer the formulations together...on a base of Vintage After Shave splashed on, no less. I find a full-wearing in cooler months to lean more towards Vintage (2/3 to 1/3 or so) and opposite in warmer months with more Current. However, this is truly a year-round scent. Great for the office, if you are a confident man. Great for a date, if you are a confident man. And, great for the bedroom...if you are a confident man. So, let me make this clear - it takes confidence, refinement and taste to pull this scent off. Not for everyone - but one should try this as a reference point in male perfumery. I don't like it - I absolutely love it! It is a bit "dated" - in the sense it takes a certain maturity to wear it with confidence...but, with the right attire and attitude, it actually makes a statement that you are "serious" and not here to play games. A captivating scent that grabs a hold of you and doesn't let go... I waited a very long time to write a "review" of one of my favorite classics in Gianfranco Ferre for Man - and in the end I want to actually just pay homage to such a brilliant bottle of fragrance. So chic, suave and classic Italian styling. One cannot mistake it for any other country of origin - this is distinctly, Italian. It is, in a word, exceptional. Not loud - but warm and smooth. A gentleman's scent. Vintage - near perfection, but moderate projection (however, I am not sure I would want it to be louder...an incredible harmony of notes!) Current - still excellent, with louder top notes and heart notes (mainly citrus & florals) - more projection but less depth. Preferred wearing - always a blend of the two, layered on top of each other...this is fragrance that deserves FAR more attention that it gets, but then again, I don't want to smell like everyone else... I have written about this extensively on Basenotes forum threads...and don't want to be redundant. However, this is not an everyday scent. It is a scent one would wear if they want to express their masculinity, but in a refined and elegant way. Captivating - and GFF for Man will always be part of my wardrobe. Cheers.

A classic scent deserves a classic review so I want to share what a highly regarded member of BN's, Darvant, has to say about this 80's masterpiece. "I've always appreciated since its inception this great creation, placed in the middle between a classic chypre and an aromatic fougere, so decided to test it back after a while (a long while, twenty years later at least). I remember to have tested it for the first time many years ago and since than i was impressed by the complex evolution running from the initial lemony and aromatic (slightly minty) harshness to a multifaceted, rooty, mossy and obscure "leather boutique" wake with colors of orange, bergamot, spices, cedar, patchouli, petitgrain and flowers. This taste is rich, luxurious and classy. As well as many previously underlined the first barber-shop blast is an hardly appealing thirsty lemon-lavender "welcome". The aromatic fist of fern, juniper and fir is in a while bursting together with the pungency from the black cardamom that is the prelude for the upcoming darkness of the forest. There is in particular a remarkable fir/lavender's presence (conjuring me a lot the one I get in Jacomo de Jacomo) providing aromatic stiffness and uncompromising fougere classicism (the "vintage side of the moon"). The central stage is the most articulated phase of the development, a stage in which dozens of facets (herbal, floral, leathery, mossy, ambery, citrusy etc.) whirl around in a general vintage, potpourri and almost boozy atmosphere whose illusion (the booziness indeed) is enhanced by the chord of gassy spices (nutmeg?), tobacco, mild amber and mandarin-orange. The central part is luxurious but shadowy and restrained in its performances implemented by astringent flowers and fruits that are almost overwhelmed by the gluminess and heaviness coming from the woodsy notes. I catch a sheer leathery mould in the final slightly powdery and very sophisticated outcome, a starring, almost creamy, ambery (almost silky) leather that envelops many elements like moss, sandalwood, smoke and strong rooty vetiver (finally soothing the latter, namely another great protagonist of the aroma). In this phase the harshness is tamed but i would not define the smell as properly soapy. Ceremonial and austere with a touch of exoticism. Together with Pontaccio 21 my favourite from the great italian brand and in general a real precious leathery potion among the classics from the 80's. P.s: i finally purchased a 75 ml bottle of this gem and i have to say that the more i wear it the more i like it. I detect points in common with Santos but GFFM is more refined and close to a sip of extra fine scotch enjoyed over a leather sofà in to a cozy luxurious ambience. Believe me, this is really, but really a fantastic fragrance, one of the best i know, unbelievably multifaceted, deep, dark, smoky, very leathery, spicy, boozy, incensey, classy, mysterious and more and more. A great olfactory romance and a superb vetiver. Chic at highest levels. Buy it as much as possible."Ciao...

GF For Man was a game changer for me. A sort of perfumery paradigm shift. A gestalt moment. Call it how you like. I was introduced to it around about 1988, coming across it in a slightly obscure gents outfitters in Oakwood, Leeds. Looking on Google Earth it is no longer there, and I suspect long since gone. Owned by a charming elderly Italian gentleman with a love of opera, there was a well-mannered and engaging King Charles spaniel that roamed freely within the premises. Considering the owners modest stature, he presented a somewhat dramatic appearance and curious intensity that was accentuated by mild exophthalmos (causing an unfortunate resemblance to his dog). A moustache that seemed permanently on the move whether speaking or not, he traversed the floor with the proud and graceful deportment befitting a matador. He regaled me of a recent trip to Egypt to witness an outdoor production of Aïda - which included sets with live elephants, giraffes, ostriches and big cats. I learned in time he was personally acquainted with many famous opera stars. Wall mounted behind his desk was an old, modestly framed, signed photo of Enrico Caruso. I correctly identified the legendary tenor before demonstrating a little knowledge of Caruso's all-too-short life. Suddenly I was launched stratospherically in his estimation. Abruptly, I was being fêted like a long lost relative. To observe his protective demeanour as I leaned for a closer inspection suggested he prized the photo above almost all else – at least on a par with his small dog and possibly even his wife. The scent he wore and the only one he carried was Gianfranco Ferre for Man. He talked knowledgeably about it and enthusiastically regarding the hand selected, small, family-centric labels he carried. His merchandise was interesting and understatedly exquisite. He seemed to have connections in fashion and opera all over the place, but in particular with his native Italy. Since that day GF For Man has resided among the "always haves" in my collection. I have both the original (the clear bottle with the stopper, from around 2000) and a newer one (sprayer and frosted glass), and I can't pretend the difference is at all obvious. To me they are pretty much indistinguishable having suffered no obvious detriment if reformulated. This is a powerful masculine Italian scent of strongly floral/herbal/earthy notes peerless in its complexity. The depth is phenomenal; and there is commensurate sillage and longevity. It is a rare surviving link to a Golden Age that included Nina Ricci Phileus, Ted Lapidus Pour Homme, Charles Jourdan Un Homme, original Burberry for Men, and Givenchy Gentleman. GF ticks so many boxes. Rarely does a week go by when I don't reach for it. A great, GREAT scent. Having such a vivid memory of our solitary encounter, all these years later I'm left wondering who that delightful Italian gentleman was and what became of him. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Sometimes words fail me, and when they do, I tend to fall back on the routine of explaining the notes that I smell in a fragrance: a fistful of sage, a dry lavender, and the like (yes, these are in Ferre for Man). In recent months of writing about scent, I've come to find this approach to verge on prosaic, and gleans very little beyond what I can identify and detect. I've challenged myself to steer away from this when I can, much like using "photorealistic," "stunning/stunner," and most certainly "DNA"—by the way, how can two entirely different perfumers with distinct styles who contribute to the same perfume house compose two perfumes for the brand with the same "DNA," anyhow? That one's a head scratcher to me. Anyways, with Ferre for Man—yes, Man, not merely men, but a MAN, THE MAN—we are reminded that there is often no clear delineation between styles. A fragrance can be strictly a fougere or strictly a chypre, I suppose, but what about when the two overlap? Mostly fougere with some chypre elements, or a hearty chypre with a dash of fougere qualities? Here, I smell a clear confluence between the two, a "chygere," and this very much accounts for its appeal to me: double the satisfaction, if you will. To break it down to its bare elements, however, would do it a disservice. Its understated elegance belies its brutish fanfare, and this may get lost in translation for some noses who expect olfactory dividends for one reason or other (to get a pat on the back or to get laid?). No, it isn't a beast, but it isn't a simpering pretty boy. Oh, here comes the adjectives, it was inevitable after all: smooth, textured, herbal, juniperous (I made it up but it works here), woody, dark, handsome, and maybe another "h" word or two. It's best appreciated when one is not distracted, takes a few deep breaths, and just sits in an armchair, a recliner, even, and notices it. It is no secret I celebrate masculinity especially as it is interpreted in perfume, and this encapsulates it. And Ladies: you can connect to your animus through wearing this just as well as I can lavish in my anima by donning LouLou or Ombré Rose. For Man is stone cold stunner (fuck, I couldn't resist).

UPDATE: I have sampled the latest version. It is VERY close to the original, but has a stronger floral component. It's nice, but... I really find myself more at home with the original. And unfortunately, the oldest version is getting harder and harder to find. The all black bottle is the latest, while the one with partially exposed brown glass is the previous one. The bottle I have is an earlier splash bottle, as pictured. The newest formulation has a completely black spray bottle and the one immediately prior to that has matte black along the entire bottom half of the bottle (the top part exposing brown tinted glass). When I saw the sealed box of what looked like the older splash version, I snapped it up without knowing this fragrance at all. No regrets! In the beginning I pick up a powdery essence that reminds me very much of Pasha de Cartier. But that doesn't last. There's a dirty/gritty side to it that comes through. Something about the oakmoss, petitgrain and lavender notes hail an earlier time in fragrances, but not so deeply that you'd find this very dated. It's what I'd consider a timeless classic. This is a complex fragrance, no doubt. My nose doesn't seem precise enough yet to pick out all of the notes, but I do sense many of them and it seems to change over time. I think Bigsy hit the nail on the head in his review--this is a fragrance for aficionados. Like a smoky and peaty Islay single malt, you need time to take it in. This is no quick dab and run aroma. It's a thinking man's fragrance. When you apply it you need to put some on your wrist so you can keep raising it to your nose and whiff, experiencing the unfolding of this wonderful concoction. ;-) FWIW, in all of my readings about this fragrance, the general impression is that the newer formulation is pretty close to the original. Some people charge hefty prices for the vintage, so... be careful not to overpay. 9.5/10.