811 Absoluto

The fragrance of 811 Absoluto had, as inspiration, the infinite energy of São Paulo, considered the most dynamic city in Brazil, our New York. The perfumer was Mathilde Bijaoui, who has been involved in several creations for international brands such as Etat Libre d'Orange, Jo Malone, Jacomo, Penhaligon's, etc. The name (each fragrance has a number in front) does not have an established concept, except for the fact that one of the requirements was the use of 11, which has great personal significance for Giovanna. 811 Absoluto is classified as oriental-spicy by the manufacturer and, just between us, such a classification could not be more perfect. It has notes of lavender, bergamot, pepper and cloves, in the output. Then, the body of the fragrance brings notes of jasmine, honey, green and balsamic accords, which rest on a base of patchouli, amber, musk and vanilla. By touching the skin, the fragrance of 811 Absoluto reinforces Giovanna Antonelli's intention to let her mark inside the "Hall of Fame" of the brands within the niche market. It immediately reminded me of other oriental and resinous creations that are full of alcoholic content and clove nuances, from houses like Serge Lutens, Histoires de Parfum, Frapin, among others. In my opinion, it is the fragrance that has the greatest male appeal - within the initial collection -, besides representing the concept and the city of São Paulo very well. As a native of Rio de Janeiro and a recent resident of São Paulo, I can see the difference in styles between citizens of both sexes, including in the perfumery. São Paulo, in general, has a milder climate, people more concerned with fashion (clothing / makeup / accessories) and a more cosmopolitan and risky style regarding perfumes. In Rio de Janeiro, the climate is warmer, people are more concerned with the body (food habits / physical aspects) and the way of dressing is more seashore, which reflects in the way they perfume themselves, searching for more refreshing fragrances. 811 Absoluto evolves as a kind of syrup, which is prepared on low heat, in which the pepper and the cloves release their spicy content in the honey, while the bergamot is used only to get its bark's zest, cutting the extreme sweetness. During the cooking time, balsamic notes (balsam of Tolu and benzoin) are added and the aroma changes, gaining nuances that resemble almonds flambéed in cognac. Stirring constantly, this syrup begins to thicken. Here go the notes of amber and patchouli, giving a darker tonality, as if it were caramel. And before putting out the fire, some pinches of vanilla and musk are add and it is recommended to cover the pan, letting it stand for a few hours. If you can imagine the smell of this syrup, you have come close to the 811 Absoluto’s fragrance, which exudes well for about three hours and lasts for more than eight hours on the skin. It is sensual, seductive, semi gourmand and at the same time comfortable. No doubt, it's my favorite so far.

I’m shocked and stunned that I like this fragrance so much. To me it’s a big bold balsamic fragrance that goes on almost as if the resin was never diluted into liquid, such is the density. Very sweet and I mainly got the jasmine on top, giving it a more feminine lean as do the other two in the line. The shocking thing for me is just how prominent the honey note is and it’s not some meek honey either, it’s fully fledged but coupled with the cinnamon spiced tolu balm, hint of vanilla and florals it balances out very nicely indeed. The honey mellows and the whole thing just becomes a cuddly warm hug of a fragrance with undeniable quality. I love it. Reminded me of old style Thierry Mugler (rather than Mugler) but somewhat safer and also Parfums de Marly Oajan but only a fleeting glance of similarity. I thought this would be monsterous performance wise because it goes on heavy and projects a cloud around it, but it’s more modest. Don’t get me wrong it lasts quite well and I think will require another wear.

Very nice balsamic fragrance that I find interesting because it is in the same time pronounced and transparent. Top notes come out with citruses, clover and dry lavander, to morph into honey and tolu balsam. It does not have the roundness, depth and texture of Tolu by Ormonde Jayne but it is a spicier and dryer interpretation of a tolu base but which at all times seems doubled also by a nice and not very sweet dry dates note. I just wish it would be a bit more persistent.

This to my nose is warm, SWEET & bit spicy! CLOVE IS MAIN NOTES HERE secondly on my skin would be the HONEY! I grew up in Iowa so this fragrance remind me so much of Autumn, home and the sweet spicy teas. The sillage and longevity are moderate on my skin!

honey, tolu, patchouli, amber, pepper; smelled a bit sweet and fruity in the drydown but in the base it has an incense vibe