Gentleman (1974)

THE 1974 GENTLEMAN ENCENS In 2018 the fashion world lost a giant player, Hubert de Givenchy, when the French aristocrat who founded the Givenchy house, died at the age of 91. The friendship established between Count de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, whom he met on the filming of 'Sabrina' in 1953, endured through several decades and helped to turn them into society legends. The narrow-collared ensembles and wool dresses he created for the star of 'Funny Face' and 'How to Steal a Million', made them both true icons of fashion design. Also worthy of mention is the black dress that Hubert Givenchy designed for the first scenes of 'Breakfast at Tiffany's', where the perhaps most famous "little black dress" ever was first shown by Hepburn. Jacqueline Kennedy, former US first lady and stylistically much admired worldwide, also preferred the brand's creations during her years in the White House. In 1961, during a state visit to France, she made an unforgettable entrance by wearing a Givenchy silk dress at the Palace of Versailles. Pretty much every notable woman of the latter half of the 20th century like Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Marlene Dietrich, Marella Agnelli and Diana Vreeland were all clients. The Countess Mona von Bismarck has even specifically asked to be buried in one Givenchy gown. Count de Givenchy opened his first fashion house in Paris in 1952. In 1989 the company was bought by the world's largest luxury goods company, Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, but the brand was kept alive and he continued to design for it until his retirement in 1995. His aristocratic full name, Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, quickly became simply 'Givenchy' from the day his fashion label opened doors in 1952, dedicated to exquisite haute couture. Being an elegant and tall man (at 1.92m) as well as a profound connoisseur of the arts and lifestyle, Hubert de Givenchy used his charming personality to create a huge impact on the fashion world. He believed that the purpose of dressing a woman was to make her more beautiful and seductive, and perfumes represented an important segment of his creations. In 1957, the women's fragrance L'Interdit was launched, becoming the brand's first perfume. Hubert de Givenchy invited his actress friend Audrey Hepburn to be the star of the advertising campaign, the first time a movie star had ever appeared in a perfume advertisement. In the late 1950s, Givenchy launched the first male perfumes with Eau de Vetyver and Monsieur Givenchy. More than 60 years later, we are able to find a very wide offer addressing almost all preferences, within the current fragrance portfolio of the brand. In 1974, Givenchy Gentleman was presented, a perfume created for exactly who it was labelled, i.e. for gentlemen... like me for instance (!). This perfume quite rightly joins a hypothetical list of fragrances that can be considered unforgettable and timeless. Although its base with civet was fashionable, and all perfumes of the time were highly musky and mossy, the scent managed to surprise the industry at its launch. Besides the dominant note, patchouli, the introduction of vetiver and leather also in the base, turned out to be a treasured decision for the fragrance's history. The result of the blending is that of a lingering struggle between all the base notes which imposed this perfume as extremely appealing, high quality, unique and innovative in the mid-1970s. To current wearers, it may seem a somewhat heavy and complex perfume, with nuances ranging from herbaceous to smoky leathery, as well as containing strong woody tones from cedar and patchouli. Besides being extremely refined, it also proved comfortable, deliciously soft and discreet, and yet, at the same time, had an elusive, almost adventurous character. In my opinion, it is still an extremely captivating perfume. Givenchy launched recently other perfumes with the same name, but this version will forever be considered the eternal Gentleman that for decades has conquered its own public, transmitting elegance and masculine sensuality in an imposing way. In it, we find, in perfect balance and masterfully combined, the masculinity of the leather accords, the amber comfort of the olibanum, and the earthy and spicy patchouli. Although my passion remains intact over time, my current perception of the original version of this perfume is that of a restrained, serious and uncompromising fragrance. The soul of the perfume, perceptible throughout the various phases, is the chain composed of patchouli, vetiver, cedar and leather, also highlighting its spicy facets. At the top, I perceive a touch of lavender (note not listed) that refreshes a bit the whole evolution. It is a perception unique to the original vintage version. The current formulation (I really like it too), does not feature this lavender nuance, replacing that accord with an increment of the rose and aniseed tarragon notes. All in all, the top is complex presenting an intricate sweetness (honey, cinnamon, tarragon) combined with a light fresh touch (rose, lavender, bergamot and lemon). The initial sweetness proves persistent and the fragrance's heart maintains it but also reveals persistent patchouli dominance. The base of this perfume is divine and the natural "habitat" of the scent I associate with the fragrance. It gives us a strong patchouli background, where coriaceous facets and the pungency of a musky amber accord with vanilla stand out, toned with an animalistic civet note. The final result was quite rightly unveiled as a woody "Encens" for a true "Gentleman" in Hubert de Givenchy's boutiques of the '70s. Givenchy Gentleman is still today a wonderful fragrance although not very versatile given its wide competition. It is stuck in a formal olfactory composition, which may not appeal to younger noses. For me, it is an amazing creation and mandatory for any collector. I don't recommend it for ladies' use because I consider it a strictly masculine perfume. Likewise, I advise against being sniffed by nostrils exclusively enamoured of either fresh, fruity, floral or blue scents. It also features different demeanours and accords from the (already) seven Givenchy Gentlemen that were released in 2017. I don't mean to claim that these newer fragrances are worse or better than the original. But they are completely different, and one can never consider them flankers of the 1974 version. Quite rightly it is often said that "There is no love like the first!". Believe it or not, the most recent batches of the original edition are still possible to encounter in many perfume distributors. You have to make sure not to let your chance run away. Music: "Young and Beautiful" by Lana Del Rey, used in "The Great Gatsby" soundtrack. "Will you still love me when I'm no longer young and beautiful? Will you still love me when I got nothing but my aching soul? I know you will, I know you will, I know that you will."

Trying to review Gentleman is like trying to review the Guernica, the 9th Symphony, or the Velvet Underground. A waste of time. Walking in my fifties I am one of the lucky ones who was "there" in the men's perfumes of the 70s and 80s in their original formulation and of course the Gentleman was by far the crown and the pioneer of all. The perfume station that changed the map and the view of men's perfumes breaking the stereotype fougere-fresh-barbershop (paco rabanne, eau sauvage, pour monsieur) and the aromatic-oriental (habit rouge, aramis), presenting something so "gentle" and at the same time "dirty" something so "manly" and "gentleman" that those who tried to copy it could not even approach it. I will not go on with other pointless descriptions as plenty of ink has been spilled over the decades to describe it. Longevity and projection were from another world. I'm not talking about 8 or 10 hours but for days (after 2 days it was easily detectable on the skin) and its projection is huge for 5-6 hours and more discreet for another 5 at least and I'm talking about 2 sprays. Bitter honey poured on oakmoss and patchouli, "marked" by the smell of felines, created an explosive mix that gripped everyone around him at a time when men smelled like men and women like women rather than competing over who would smell more fruity and sweeter. Even now after 4 decades of being together (still have 2 bottles form 80s/90s) there are moments that I do not dare to wear it not for what others will say (I never cared) but because I feel "small" in front of him and out of respect for the time he represented and it is gone forever. I recently tried the current formulation under the name originale. It is not bad, actually is very good and wearable to today's standards and tries to pay homage to the giant of the past with respect and is much better and more masculine than most of the chemical blue-sugar-transsexual garbages that has been circulating for at least the last decade but unfortunately can not capture the "smell" the "feel"and the "sense" of the vintage, as it happens with all the modern reformulations of old perfumes. Honey, patchouli, a suspicion of leather and a small touch of gentle dirtyness at the dry down as long as it does not disturb the modern sensitive sugary noses, with moderate longevity and sillage. The difference is the complete absence of the banned civet and oakmoss which give this feast of earthy and animalic authentic smells. Νevertheless, I highly recommend it to young men who want to dare and smell different from the masses. Αfter all, you can not miss something you never had, and we must support reformulations that try to keep the legends of the past alive. And because many "experts" have tried to describe how Gentleman smells and feels, the best description was given by an old female friend, who so simply told me "this perfume smells like SOVEREIGNTY, it smells like TESTOSTERONE".

Givenchy Gentleman is a refined, elegant, and gentlemanly French old-school perfumery at its finest—launched in 1974 but still equally relevant today. You see, elegance never goes out of style. Bad style, on the other hand, does. A beautiful floral, slightly sweet, woodsy, leathery, and soapy concoction that in my mind absolutely leans old school and mature. The leathery and woodsy notes are definitely detectable to my nose, but it's the patchouli/floral note and the soapy note that dominate my olfactory experience, and it's the soapy, floral, and woodsy combination that makes it vaguely similar to something like Floris No. 89 (from 1951), albeit Givenchy Gentleman (1974) is head and shoulders above Floris No. 89 and offers complexity and deeper and richer woodsy notes that Floris No. 89 doesn't have. Definitely manly and gentlemanly, but I get no "macho vibes," "crude animalic behavior," or "hairy chest" association in my mind. This is no Aramis Classic, Fahrenheit, or Polo Green. Dated? Not at all. If you think class, style, and refined gentlemanly elegance are "dated," then I guess they're "dated." In my mind it's a timeless elixir for a well-dressed and well-groomed gentleman clothed in an expensive suit, who needs to make an impression at a black-tie event. Very French. Very refined. Very elegant. Very mature. Very gentlemanly—hence its name. Very classic, timeless, and old school—but definitely not dated. Sillage and projection on my skin are, in all fairness, quite limited, and longevity is probably in the 3-6 hour range, but while Givenchy Gentleman lasts on my skin, it's a refined and elegant experience that leaves an impression on me that I won't forget anytime soon. Occasions to wear this beautiful scent: Definitely ideal for black-tie events (like I stated earlier) and definitely more formal than casual (more appropriate for a business suit/formal attire than a pair of jeans and a t-shirt), but you could potentially wear Givenchy Gentleman for semi-formal or semi-casual occasions as well. Given the scent profile, I'd say this scent probably shines in fall and winter, but I guess you could wear it in early spring as well. Appropriate for day and night, but in my mind this leans more to the night hours. Since it's quite mature, you need to be most likely 35 years old or older to really appreciate this, but if you're in your twenties and you're an old soul, you could most likely pull this off. My only complaint with this scent is the lacking performance, and sometimes it gets too soapy for my personal taste. My overall impression is positive, and I'm glad that I have Givenchy Gentleman in my collection. It's one of the most subtle and refined men's fragrances out there. It's an absolute joy to wear it. Final score: 10/10.

I received my three little miniatures of GENTLEMAN in the EDT today. I am pretty confident that I am smelling the original juice...they have the silver cap. My nose also doesn't detect any Millennial trendy/linear synthetics, either... What I'm getting smells eminently natural throughout. I bought these miniatures blind, based solely on reviews I saw here on Fragrantica. I've had a generous application going on on my wrist for less than 30min, and already I am bowled over: Yes, this is a monstrously gorgeous, expert, innovative, magisterial perfume, with a dance of many sophisticated notes in the French style. Firstly, it goes on much sweeter than I had anticipated it would, based upon user comments here. I had thought it might emerge as a flinty chypre approaching something like BANDIT or CABOCHARD or maybe even YATAGAN..? Mais non-- this perfume has a rich, rewarding amber/tonka sweetness beneath its swoony, expressive herbs and tart citrus. In fact, I would call this an "ambered chypre". I love the way the tarragon keeps the scent buoyant with its delicate quasi-fennel quality, infused with a cool menthol. Then in far drydown you are left with a suave, transparent, 70's-style musk. GENTLEMAN does seem to anticipate the "metrosexual" mood of the 90's... some 20 years beforehand. For it certainly doesn't smell barbershoppy or 1960's BRUT-like at all. Indeed, I am reminded not only of KOUROS, but also of Mugler A*MEN and Balenciaga POUR HOMME. The powerful patchouly-oakmoss-lime accord reminds me some of EAU DE ROCHAS and of Ungaro DIVA. GENTLEMAN even has echoes for me of vintage Schiaparelli SHOCKING. Must be the honey note. Something, I know not what, is bestowing a wonderful "waxen candle" quality some 3/4 into its development... what could it be? ARAMIS, in 1966 had unleashed a whopping amount of non-hippie-ish patchouly, daringly sensuous and departing from masculine cologne orthodoxy; but then GENTLEMAN, in 1974, comes along and says "Hold my beer..." The patchouly in this scent does everything but get up and walk. I am rating this scent as unisex... as there's nothing (to me) swaggeringly macho about it at all; it just smells like finest French perfumery to me. A lady could easily wear this, and should, wearing it as a kind of intense MISS DIOR or SHOCKING or MISS BALMAIN. What a great addition to my perfume education. It's a total knock right outta the park. Coco Chanel said "Style is the absence of vulgarity." And that's the aesthetic going on on my skin here today. I may have to spring for a full flacon of the vintage jus.

I immediately very much prefer the current formulation of this to that of the Giorgio, and to some extent my perception of the differences between the two corresponds to the difference between their colours. Giorgio mostly smells mossy green to me, though in almost a kind of abstracted/extracted or essential way that it is hard for me to comprehend, let alone explain. The moss etc. aside, it's almost as if someone had candied some sliced patchouli leaves or something. Not to say that the smell is sweet, but the patchouli aspect has a kind of 'translucent' quality that makes me think of boiled-sugar candy, or (probably light-greenish) stained glass. Others might perceive it to be medicinal, herbaceous, and so on. The patchouli in Gentleman has a similar quality but, at least in today's formulation, the overall effect is much leaner, more refined, classier, and probably ghostlier, more atmospheric. Gentleman does smell more kind of--I don't know--straw-coloured or yellow-grey to me somehow, and paler, probably purer, though also more sophisticated. The main thing about Giorgio that has never quite jibed with me is the obvious use of aldehydes. They give Giorgio a kind of coarse, three-dimensional, cottony texture that, given the strength of the patchouli and moss, I find unappealing. There is a certain grace about it but to me it smells dated and abrasive. There is little or none of that here, though I wouldn't dream of riding my luck and that of everyone around me by using more than about three sprays of this or wearing it in warm weather. If you took this Gentleman, rolled it around in damp mossy earth for a few minutes till it was good and soggy, threw in some citrus, a flower or two, and so on, then took some cotton swabbing to the whole thing and gave it a brisk wipe so the Gentleman ended up half covered in cotton fibres, and then you maybe left it out in the sun to dry for a bit, what came out might be something like the Giorgio. Or maybe Seth Brundle tried to teleport some Gentleman and there was some kind of mini explosion in one of the pods so that what came out at the other end was half Gentleman, half noxious, powdery miasma of some kind of explosion in a moss-heavy, patchouli-heavy perfume factory. The far dry-down of this is something like the smell of my greasy hair at the end of a four-day hippie music festival but I Iike it.