Empire Des Sens

Out of the samples I had to try from this house so far this one was my least favorite. However, It smells wonderful a well-blended quality fragrance but it just has not excited me yet. When I tried this on skin I was already somewhat aware of what I was getting myself into - European brand... Oud? Most likely none... Although it is not lost on me that oud in theory can definitely exist in a British or European Brand's fragrances. But with regional and cultural tastes being as they are, ingredient regulations, the nightmarish distribution hurdles to acquire oud and the supremely inflated pricing of the ingredient, I could not in good faith believe that real oud is used in some of these luxury British or European brands. Therefore I generally default to believing that it is possibly an expensive captive molecule, cypriol/nagarmotha or a glorified animalic leather or woody accord responsible for the representation of the ingredient. Though I have real distilled oud oils and Middle Eastern fragrances with the ingredient I would not use my knowledge as law since I have not smelled every niche brand and oud distillery in existence. One brand that I can confirm does use real oud in their compositions from France is Henry Jacques. However their prices are astronomical and unnecessary for what you can get similarly in the Middle east or by Eastern distillers for a fraction the price. I guess if you want French fragrances with a purposeful attempted Middle Eastern twist go with them. But I would say that the brand is slightly gimmicky, trend dependent like Boadicea and Roja and bring nothing entirely new or groundbreaking to the market just easier to access clones that have already been explored locally or on the other side of the world. Large brands like these can give you a glimpse of how much you have to pay in Europe or Britain for an imported idea. Middle East copies Europe and Europe copies the Middle East. I digress... With these estimations in mind I would judge this fragrance as something that just smells good rather than if it is an oud fragrance. It smells very pleasant. Sweet but quite smooth without becoming saccharine/dessert-like or cloying. It opens rather candy-like as @Q80 mentioned. Crystalline roses made of caramelized, hardened sugar that does not become barbarian or juvenile by getting, too syrupy, itchy or dry to the nose but just teases the possibility. The sweet edges are rounded nicely. Once it settles however that is the point I begin to make a massive connection to something I already have. Somehow the vanilla, amber accord and patchouli are the final things that remain on my skin for the rest of the scent's life and it quickly reminded me of Jean Paul Gaultier Ultramale after some thought. Sniffing around in my collection and I can confirm this is Ultramale with much higher quality ingredients and a more natural feel. Just think if Ultramale stayed at a lower pitch, a hum if you will, was more savvy with its french heritage and never got too saccharine and itchy, that is Empire Des Sens. The rose, and oud accord in this provides a mellowed dark fruitiness or tropical nuance that matches with the fruity pear nuance present in Ultramale. Obviously there was no Intention of matching Ultramale's profile but a similarity in profile is what I smell off me. A fine fragrance indeed possibly more unisex, feminine to my nose. A scent for social or recreational occasions rather than professional wear. Empire Des Sens may be a tad redundant in my collection. I am going back-and-fourth in my mind about whether I would want the Premium Platinum Membership card option of Ultramale since I do however find myself reaching for the profile quite often. Decisions, Decisions... I will probably just have some more fun with my sample and test it in more situations to find out. 8/10

Back to one of my top curious brands i have witnessed lately. Cloying sweet vanilla roses.. Overly rose candy on powdered base is what i first witnessed when i sprayed it on! To be specific, it's a sweet amber Turkish roses drenched in vanilla powder. It was very cloying but that sweetness remained for around 2 to 3 minutes till it settles quite well with more powdery less cloying vanilla roses. The orange blossoms rises a bit. I kind of detect tiare flower somewhere! that milky coconuty note hidden within that i can attach it sometimes with white morning beach sand. I don't get the summer tan vibes but there is something shiny white, something dusty like worm morning sand and some saffron beside European style kind of oud as well. This blend tricked me! when i first applied it i disliked it quite much because of the cloying sweetness that hit me when i first applied it but that disliked notes vanished quite quick & it changed dramatically in away that made me wonder wither if i have applied something on it! I can see this proudly to be "Marie Antoinette" perfume (the Kirsten Dunst version). It's a cute mild candy white floral blend with some amber, patchouli, saffron, and oud! Very interesting for it's kind. Beautiful.