Boronia

A Grandiflora Fragrances kreativ igazgatója Saskia Havekes (aki 20 évvel ezelőtt nyitotta meg virágboltját Sidney-ben), Ausztrália egyik legkreatívabb floristája. 2017-ben Bertrand Duchaufour-ral szövetkezve hozták létre a Boronia-t, amit óriási sikerrel mutattak be a firenzei Pitti Fragranze 2017-es rendezvényén. A boronia (Boronia megastigma) Ausztráliában élő kis barna vadvirág ami Bertrand Duchaufour kompozíciójának középpontjában áll. A botanikai leírások szerint virágai nagyon intenzív és vonzó illatúak, egy kis cserje, apró aromás levelekkel és 80-100 mm átmérőjű csésze alakú mély csokibarna virágszirmokkal, melyek belső része citromsárga. A meleg és édes borónia természetes aromája ebben a kompozícióban egy krémesen simogató dohány-velúr illattal párosul, gyantákkal, konyakkal, karamellel és érett gyümölcsökkel, lényegében egy ínyenc gyümölcsös velúr kompozíció. Igazi pikantériáját a csersavas fekete tea frissessége, a széna-szerű jegyzetek, a dohánylevél fűszeres szárazsága adja a púderes, vajas karamell-velúron keresztül. Eddigi tapasztalataim alapján, mindig más, alkalomadtán felbukkan a levendula, az ibolya és a frézia illata, a kajszi és az érett szilva aromája is ebben az egyedi mámorító aromakomplexben.Sajnos a borónia illatát eddig nem sikerült megtapasztalnom... ezért is tapogatoztam más, talán reá emlékeztető virágok irányába...

I bought this blind for Bertand Duchaufour's name alone. I'm a huge fan of his work and I as expected, I find myself loving this a lot! Although it has been a sore point for many, I'm not at all bothered by how short lived the boronia flower opening is. I instantly recognised that narcotic floral opening that is so unique to boronia - I want to say it smells almost poisonous in a way that some purple flowers can. The scent quickly loses its floral edge and dries into the most delicious fruity tobacco and suede scent that's not miles away from the accord used in Serge Luten's Daim Blond - another favourite of mine that coincidentally performs very similarly - long lasting, but very close projection after the first 30 minutes.

Dry dusty leathery raisins that have sat lonely in an abandoned pantry for ages. Weird and wonderful. I have no idea what Boronia smells like but to me the floral aspects of this perfume come a distant fourth to the dried fruit, suede and spicy immortelle. In fact, I would barely characterize this as a floral fragrance; there is a thread of rose but it’s almost buried in the dust. Boronia Grandiflora has a pervasive denseness but it’s dry, almost nose tickling dry. Lasts a solid 8 hours on skin.

Super unusual floral scent with so many different elements. All notes that you see are noticeable and blended perfectly!

Hmm... Black pepper flavor cognac with tobacco, resin, and wood fillings. I was very curious to try this blend because of: 1+ The pyramid is quite impressive since it includes apricots, cognac, caramel, and tobacco. 2+ Eddie Bulliqi wrote quite an impressive lines about it in "Pitti FRAGRANZE 2017: The BEST Perfumes!", and MAT Yudov also mentioned it. So i got the chance to try this although i didn't find it in London Fenwick as "Grandiflora" mentioned in their website. So, i wasn't impressed at first when i applied it on my skin as it was kind of peppery, & slightly salty, but when i detected the myrrh few minutes in i kind of thought of giving it more time! so it is quite harsh since it has tobacco and wood filling as top notes beside the cognac, & resin. Now, i couldn't detect any apricots, or caramel but i believe both are there but can't be defined directly! both are playing a role of sweetens the harshness of the tobacco with the help of suede as the suede itself is quite rough with that wool texture that soaks the whole bitterness of the cognac! it's a bit complex actually. I honestly don't know what real Boronia flower smells like but actually i like this blend! i can't say it's unusual but it is quite balanced and very addictive. Very sharp yet sensual and fits certain criteria of personalities. The close fragrance that could be similar to this blend is "Iridum" by DSH as both has the same cognac note with wood fillings. Bottom line, i never thought that this fragrance was made by "Bertrand Duchaufour", or maybe i read it in that article i mentioned above & i forgot that he was behind it, cause if i was aware it would have been one of the reasons that won't make me curious to try it cause Bertrand lately became quite boring with the blends he make specially the one he made with his fellow noses "Geza Schoen", & "Mark Buxton" under brand name "Renegades" in 2016! it was a real meh! but this one here isn't bad though as it has an impressive aura when applying it on my skin in particular. I need to check it a bit more in order to see wither if i'm getting it or not. Edit (7th Jan 2018) The more i try it, the more i adore it! the apricots are detected well along side with caramel forming a sweetness blast for the boozy tobacco. This is impressive and addictive.