Nøkken

Nokken is one of the first woody scents I tried. I wasn’t totally sure what “woody” meant at first, but this fragrance made me understand it. It’s like walking through a forest after it rains. If you’re new to fragrances like me and want something that feels grounded and not too sweet, this is a solid pick.

Unlike the last two perfumes I’ve sampled from Grimoire, Nøkken’s scent story doesn’t unfold neatly from top to base. Yet despite their disorganization they still somehow blend together quite well. Right off the bat I'm sure you can tell by reading the notes that this is a very aromatic perfume. The opening delivers a soft, rounded berry sweetness entwined with intense green accords, I assume from the shiso, galbanum and violet leaf. These notes are indeed very "leafy", bright and fresh rather than sharp, however there is also a crushed leaf quality which somehow translates to an almost minty nose-feel. Interestingly I don't detect the black pepper at all, which I am usually sensitive to. Soon after the structure dissolves, the middle and bottom notes intermingling in a way that was rather confusing to my nose. Probably this is just a "me problem", but perhaps this confusion could be a way to interpret the story this perfume is trying to tell. Nøkken are water spirits that lure people to their death and I could imagine that experience would certainly cause those so unfortunate to feel rather disoriented. A dense woodiness comes through, the fir and cypress are very clear to me and it feels like we are on the outskirts of an ominous, dark forest. There is a dirty quality surrounding them that reminds me of damp dirt as well (patchouli, oakmoss, is that you?). What is even more potent than the wood and the dirt however is what I can only describe as pungent, almost iodine-like musk that reads as dank and mineral. Surely this would be attributed to the choya nakh, maybe in partnership with the seaweed. This is not as aquatic as I would of expected - but we could very well be on the muddy banks of a river or lake, feet sinking into the wet silty ground, yet to reach the water. I have to say that this strange iodine-like dankness is not enjoyable to me. Fortunately this stays close to the skin and the sillage radiates the aromatic notes quite politely, given the unpleasantness that lurks underneath. Despite the challenging elements here, this scent in the air is quite grounding and tranquil to me, reminiscent of woody essential oils one might smell at a luxury spa. While this isn't something I’d wear, it’s undeniably skillful. So far all three perfumes I've sampled come across as experiments in creating atmosphere. Niche at its most niche!

Nothing says ‘seductive allure’ like naming your perfume after a shape-shifting swamp demon that drowns people.