Chamade Eau de Toilette

Okay so i smelled this again when i was testing stuff with my mom to get an idea for what to get for mothers day. I ended up loving it much more than her, and i got a full bottle now... i got to experience a lot of aspects of this perfume. Initially found it too candied lemon esque.. now i dont get anything like that at all. This is a wonderful perfume with very interesting quirks and development. I dont frequently experience this in modern perfumery, its like progression and evolution isnt a real thing anymore. A lot of new stuff is focused on top notes while the base notes are always the same (ambroxan!) which truly diminishes the beauty of a fragrance. Chamade however does the opposite, the first smell is much different than the second and the third and the fourth. Initially, it is a green aldehyde bomb. Now, aldehydes are very ... reminiscent of soap. Yes, its been stated a thousand times before. But here it quickly settles down, and the aldehydes add a fattiness to a very realistic hyacinth. As stated in my previous review, this part smells like a more eastern market flower extract. Whereas western flower extract tend to smell suave and cleaned up, with more often than not a focus on 1 singular aspect of the flower, eastern ones smell more fizzy and alive and colorful and fatty and indolic. Its hard to explain. There is a kind of nag champa-ness about it all. Indolic in its truest form but never pissy or skanky or poopy. I find this much more enjoyable, its much more similar to the real flower regardless of which place used more delicate extraction methods. To get my point across, i advise you to smell a stick of unlit nag champa incense. Its that kind of indolic. No, not synthetic floral + poop note. It genuinely feels fully integrated into the flower itself, as it would be in real life. That aside, this perfume goes from aldehydic to realistic fatty waxy naturally sweet hyacinth to bitter green lush galbanum hyacinth, then the hyacinth disappears and makes way for a ylang ylang. This ylang is a bit tuberose esque, which means that it smells rubbery and waxy. Whereas tuberose can smell more industrial, the rubberiness in this ylang ylang is more textural. Its like the petals are rubbery, and not the smell. This is beautiful to me. It doesnt make the ylang too tropical or sunny or cheery, which wouldnt really go well with the other notes imo. This ylang eventually gets supported by a sandalwood, which comes and goes and comes and goes. It gets powdery for a bit, then it takes a turn and starts warming up. The aldehydic and green beginning of this perfume is very cold while the drydown isnt. The drydown is warm, cozy, still waxy yet not necessarily floral , ambery in the most vintage sense, and just comforting. So we went from crisp cold aldehydic indolic green floral to rubbery soft woody floral to warm ambery balsamic. I love it. It sadly doesnt last very long, but it surely performs. My classmate said it smells like hajj and my teacher said it smells vintage. Definitely onenof my all time favorites now and i hope to find more florals like this. Im so tired of unconvincing florals. I want more like this.. if anyone knows what im talking about with eastern vs western, please dm me recommendations. It doesnt have to be just hycanith, i love most flowers as long as theyre realistic

Edit: I wrote aboute the new Chamade EDT at the old version's site, and repost parts of it here, slightly edited. Chamade is one of my favourite Guerlain perfumes. I have two vintage versions, both a pure perfume miniature from 1996 and a full size EDT from 1992 (according the batch codes), and they manage to be both sharp green and flowery warm and spicy all at the same time. Aldehydic like Chanel no. 22, which is a perfume that smells very similar to Chamade on me. In the current EDT (my bottle is from 2022) I finally smell the juicy black current and roses in the opening, which is not there at all in the two vintage versions that I own. It is quite similar to the dry and spicy roses of Nahema for some minutes, before the opening is gone. In this new version, the aldehydes reminding of Chanel no. 22 are almost gone. The current version is weaker, as well as a little more cheerful, more for daytime everyday wear than for an evening out, but evaluated on its own I must say that it is brilliant! Fruity and light, but also green and warm. All contradictions, in a way, but in a perfect composition. The only drawback is the staying power, which is way to weak. This is the case also in the other Les Legendaires that I own (Nahema, Apres l'Ondee, Jicky): they are all beautiful and remastered versions of the originals, with a definite place of their own in the perfume world of today, but they only last a short time compared to the earlier compositions. Nahema has the best staying power of the new Guerlain's that I have tried, but I am eager to discover more of them since they are wonderful in their complexity and nuancing.

Reviewing the bee bottle version. So if Guerlain's Liu is a sunny, early in the morning spring garden, Chamade is a spring garden soaked in the afternoon sun. At least that's how they feel on my skin. Whereas Liu is a soapy aldehidic floral similar to No 5, to my nose Chamade is greener and centered on hyacinth, but in the dry down it's warmed up by the vanilla and sandalwood, just like a golden hour sun soak. Both are beautiful, fresh, uplifting, joyful. Nahema is a whole other thing... It's a sober, quite serious rich red rose, not the jammy kind, nor the pink kind. It's very, very elegant and I feel like it's more appropriate for evenings because of its velvety feel. It's also a little smoky, it sort of resembles the smell of dried roses a little bit. These are all beautiful gems I'm very happy to own. Next in line is Chant d'Aromes!

I find current Chamade to be a beautiful breath of fresh air. The galbanum along the hyacinth and black currant, are still unmistakably here. A resinous chypre, moss with a myrrh drydown! Certain similarity to Nahema in the opening. It might be similar to Parfum d’Hermes which I have in vintage, but its beauty (just like all Les Legendaires) makes it a must for me, even if it resembles many other perfumes. Just like with Liu, Nahema, Jicky, Insolence, with Vol de Nuit, L’Instant...each and every one of them is a delight. And even if it might seem redundant to have many perfumes that have smell a likes, they’re simply gorgeous and excellently maintained. Bravo once again Thierry!

Sprayed on Chamade this sunny mild day, 15 February. The promise of spring around the corner. Longevity and intensity isn't high with this new bottle's juice, but I don't mind. The dry down does linger for quite some hours. I wouldn't say there much of a sandalwood note left in this. Best to buy these new iterations of Guerlain's classics for 50-75 dollars. I've managed to do that, by watching online sales. When they aren't too expensive, I really appreciate the house keeping them alive, so we can enjoy them. Echoing AnnaCeciliaPetersson, just below me, these fragrances don't smell dated either, in these new versions. Very well done.

I bought this by accident. I lost my Shalimar gold metal refillable in a move and since I don't like the modern version of Shalimar, I went to good old Ebay! I found a very vintage refill bottle with a full bottle of what I thought was Shalimar. It was on sale for $45 so I bought it. It arrived yesterday and I was shocked that it wasn't Shalimar but Chamade. I sprayed it on and disliked it. Then kinda liked it. It mellowed into something pretty and after 6 hours or so I sprayed again and it was HEAVENLY! It has a real personality and I think we've become friends.

The middle few hours are the best. Sure I love the galbanum blast for its shock and attention seeking. I suppose that is the "Chamade": the loud drum or trumpet signal. But the mid calms down and is mysterious, elegant and calm. Here we have the cassis and jasmine adding an elixir aspect. Picture a vineyard of cassis vines and a stone wall covered with jasmine. And rose. It's not really a yellow floral, despite the ylang. I suggest mauve, pink, green, brown, and white. This contemporary Chamade iteration is stronger than my recent bottle of Chanel 19 EDT.

Sweet powdery hyacinth in the same vein as anais anais, but this is not green at all to my nose. Also has a turkish vibe that i cant explain. Like a hyacinth oil found in kemeraltı . Extremely pretty but probably old fashioned for those who dont like older styles of perfumes. Not compelled enough go buy it since i have bas de soie by serge lutens which is more realistic, but if you want a hyacinth without the sharp overwhelming parts.. this is for you

Absolutely LOVE Chamade!! IMHO, it's the best of the heritage perfumes of Guerlain. It gives you an instant pick-me-up. The floral greenness, with galbanum, hyacinth, and cassis give way to a vanilla-sandalwood dry down that envelopes you in warmth and comfort. That's why this is a great winter fragrance, because it's WARM. Chamade is truly stunning and elegant. A class above the celebrity concoctions they shill nowadays. It's timeless and classy.

I'm not a big fan of the opening, and that is actually true for most Guerlain's that I have tried, but the dry down - WOW! Love it so much. It's green, and a bit woody and soapy, with a soft floralness with whiffs of hyacinth and jasmine. It really is like laying in the grass of a small clearing in the forest, and the sun is peeking through the opening of the tree crowns, and there are a few flowers around you in the grass. Gorgeous.

A good vintage scent and even though I like it, it has a generic vibe too. Maybe this is pure Guerlinade? For me, it is not green at all, although, it may be the case that it is green among other scents of this type and that is what green used to be in the past. Smells better on my shirt than on my hand.

The original Chamade is one of my favourite Guerlains, which is saying something, as it is far and away my favourite house. I have a treasured vintage miniature in the teardrop bottle, and it is a stellar green floral, the ultimate springtime scent, a fine example of its genre. I have been impressed with some of the other Les Légendaires, the current formulations of some of the classic Guerlain perfumes, notably Insolence and L'Heure Bleue. However, Chamade EDT is a bit of a let-down. I applied both the EDT and vintage for comparison, and while they are similar, Chamade EDT is a shadow of its former self. Chamade EDT has a green floral opening like the original, albeit much more muted. The hyacinth here is not the bold, waxy note that I hoped for - instead, it is thin, soapy and indistinct. The galbanum note is typically green and hazy, but again, muted. It improves as it develops. The ylang ylang emerges, becoming surprising dominant as the heart unfolds, adding smooth sweetness to this scent. The green undertone persists, keeping things fresh. Vanilla comes to the fore as it dries down, with soft woody notes grounding it. There is a sweet amber nuance to the base, tying things together nicely. It fades to a sweet, musky skin scent. Sillage and longevity are moderate. A feminine spring/sunny daytime scent, Chamade EDT is a sweet floral, initially green-tinged but developing into an amber-floral scent. Pleasant but unremarkable, it is decent in its own right, but disappointing for those seeking the original. 3/5.

A bright, happy, green-floral bouquet. The flowers are soapy hyacinth and airy, springtime jasmine with a dab of banana-ish ylang ylang putting flesh on the bones. A shivery chill from galbanum and a hint of blackcurrant bud casting cool, green shade. In its current eau de toilette formulation Chamade is breezily refreshing, the aldehydes scorching through, a light, minimal, powdery sandalwood and trace vanilla providing the balance and holding back the flowers from screeching. I like it a great deal (technically preferring the long gone Chamade Extrait version — divine!) but its powdery side takes it a shade too old school femme for me to wear often. However when I do it's a perfect spring / summer floral, a burst of optimism, the perfume equivalent of a gulp of sparking elderflower cordial over ice under bright, warm sunshine.

Galbanum gives it a bitter edge but it is also bright and refreshing. Hyacinth adds sweetness and floral charm. Currant adds green and tart aspect. A great classic made accessible. It wraps me in a scented bubble with just 2 application points and I like how it projects powdery aspects on me Chloe Love I find similar to Chamade at this stage. It dries down to lovely, spicy vanilla. It has medium sillage and longevity. I am on vanilla stage after 3 hours. I suspect it is simplified compared to the classic formula. It is commercially pretty. Dry-down is sandalwoody.

This has a similar vintage aura to many Guerlain fragrances & if I didn't already have Mitsouko, I might like it better. I must agree with the previous reviewer that this has an animalic edge I'm not crazy about & doesn't really meet the modern definition of a green floral. However, I had to try it because I love green fragrances & hyacinths. In the end, this doesn't do either of these well enough to justify more than a test.

Very vintage smelling, like 1930s vintage, soapy aldehydes, floral, softly powdery. I didn't expect it to be so vintage and it caught me off-guard, but it is beautiful. Complex and evolves. An old school classic. Noting the nice sandalwood in the drydown. Yet another quality Guerlain!

The current Chamade edt is a sparkly happy light aldehydic floral with a gentle ambery base. It has nice complexity while remaining sheer. A great warm weather scent. Imparts a casual sophisticated vibe. Sillage and longevity are moderate to weak. This is like a cologne.

This is the greenest perfume I have ever smelt. All I smell is the most bitter most oily galbanum. I cannot express just how green this perfume is. IT’S GREEN.

I like it so far, but it does lean very green on my skin, almost like I'm laying down on a field of freshly cut grass. Definetly a spring/summer scent.

Smells like a million different things I've tried. It's not unique and is too light and fleeting for me to really have a strong opinion on it. 5/10

EpicureOrHedonist?08/22/23 09:04 ... Bug spray 😬🐞

I was very surprised to see green listed as Chamade's main profile. The meaning of the green category has also likely shifted over the years, and while this would have fit the old definition of a green fragrance, it doesn't really match the modern one. Instead, what you get is a vintage yellow-white floral with an animalic edge. For a moment, it reminded me of Jicky and the famous breath note people often talk about. I think that's simply part of the Guerlain vintageness rather than something unique to Chamade. One thing is true for almost every vintage or revived Guerlain: don't judge it by the first few sprays. That's not how these fragrances work. They take considerably longer to settle than most modern perfumes, and only then do they reveal what they're really about. I still find Chamade rather dated, but if you're exploring the Les Légendaires collection, that's hardly a criticism. The whole point of the line is to preserve and reintroduce Guerlain's legendary classics, so a vintage character comes with the territory. As for Chamade itself, there are other fragrances from the line that are much higher on my wishlist. This one didn't make the cut. It's nice, but the florals feel a little too heavy and downward-pulling for my taste.

This EDT is all that's left of the beautiful Chamade. Though this latest version does still smell like Chamade (unlike some of the horrendous re-releases LVMH did with brands like Jean Patou, before discontinuing them altogether), it has definitely had some modernisation. It's lighter and a far less powerful, with a slightly candied floral note. It reminds me slightly of Nahema, which the original Chamde definitely didn't. I suppose I should be thankful Chamade hasn't suffered the same fate as several of the Patous, and been turned into an unrecognisable modern white musk fragrance. However, I just keep asking why LVMH just can't leave masterpieces such as this alone. I do appreciate that some ingredients become unavailable for numerous reasons; but reformulating and updating fragrances, apparently for the sake of it (especially perfumes of this magnitude) seems so wrong, on so many levels.

I have had it for a while now, but I could not find a suitable moment/weather, when it would shine and shine it would, I knew for sure. Now it is late summer, soon to be fall, the air is more damp, and I think this is it... and maybe more moments will follow with damper seasons. I think this is a great getaway from the 21st century for people who want to get away from the 21st century, slow down, enjoy your novel of War and Peace, and not care if you fit in. Fit in you may not, but enjoy you will...

Powdery creamy aldehyde... Sour creamy ylang, with galbanum, & sour cassis. The vanilla is there but not that visible, & kept to minimal. I get also sandalwood. This blend gives vintage vibes but quite light compared to vintage blends. Unfortunately i didn't sniff the original vintage version, but i guess it worth digging if this the 2021 version is alluring with the IFRA regulations so i guess the 69' version would be captivating. Beautiful

At first spray Chamade greets you with an oily herbal galbanum reminiscent of Chanel No 19 EDT, but very soon it turns younger and becomes rosy. Full of roses, blooms, light florals. In the dry down it clearly shows its a Guerlain classic. It gives an impression of being sheer, like a water colour painting. The longevity is a couple of hours. At first spray it was a like, once it showed its heart it became a love!

I LOVE the original Chamade. I happen to love this also, especially because it is easier to wear in the everyday life, maybe when the temperature outside is a bit cooler. I still love the powdery aldehyde quality to it, gives it a slight vintage touch.

In response to indiglo below, yes there was an EDT and it came in a bee bottle. Guerlain have brought back Jicky, Nahema, Chant D’Arome amongst others in the same bottle as Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue.

This isn't so much a review as a statement of confusion. There was definitely a Chamade EDT that predated 2021, wasn't there? I have it in a bee bottle.

I may stray. I may dally with others. But I will always return home to my one true love, Chamade.

Looking to sell my barely used bottle. Dm if interested