Derby (Vintage)

“Rough and ready” is a phrase that must be found somewhere in Derby’s birth certificate. This is Guerlain’s cowboy moment, when they let their French-chic hair down, responding to the masculine leather-chypre craze of the early 80s with “you want a manly man’s leather chypre? Hold my beer, junior.” The opening of bergamot and wormwood is as dry as the arid American Wild West. Parched to the texture of sun scorched sand, thanks to the dehydrated bergamot, and as bitter and strident as scrub brush, thanks to the wormwood. This land feels otherworldly, like the surface of Mars. Kicking up this dusty, sandy, hot soil is a steed with a man on its back charging at you like an infernal wind. In this heart section we find carnation, a staple of Guerlain’s perfume hearts particularly in their masculines, that’s creamy and gently white floral - some polite and generous mannerisms injected - but it’s allowed to be more peppery than usual. Carnations are the reigns keeping the steed of mace and pimento in check. The mace with its naturally sweet and floral aspects overlap with the carnation, but it’s the warm side that shines here to the point of an oven’s heating element, the intense body heat of a horse at breakneck - probably from the load of pimento up its backside. The overall effect is a feverish body heat and hyper-muscular spices; this horse is a mustang strung like a rubber-band, ready to snap, but the carnation reigns have it under control. Then there’s the dashing, rugged cowboy looking down at you, the strong silent type, a bit crude but well mannered until he feels the need to sock you in the mouth with a dry callused fist when you step out of line. He’s clad in dirty leather, salt stained from his sweat, and you can smell it like it’s an aura unto him. There’s something very alluring about those dark eyes underneath the wide brim hat, a feeling of safety and predictability that comes with simple but sound principles; a big slug of clean and damp oakmoss - the real, good ol’ stuff in my formulation, woody and a touch green vetiver, real sandalwood, and a loamy brown patchouli give you the ability to relax and breathe during this tense but magnetic encounter. Be still, my thundering heart. Or, rather to the theme: keep your wits ‘bout you, boy.

@gallian I do touch Antaeus and Fahrenheit... I have Fahrenheit and I know Antaeus and I love them both... take a look at my profile... I said I think Fahrenheit worse than Derby... but I didn't say I don't like it... I meant if there is market for a strong cologne like Fahrenheit, Antaeus and Kourós there is a market for Derby... I know about history and Fahrenheit was created in 1988 and was totally reformulated some years ago... Luca Turin gave 4 stars for the original (it's not for sale anymore) and 2 stars to the current edition. (Derby has 5) Fahrenheit repeated many tones of Hermés' Bel Ami from 1986... and Derby came first in 1985... Fahrenheit and Derby have both citrus top notes and leather base... Jean Claude Ellena was going to "create" Fahrenheit with a very different and innovator kind of fresh cologne... but he was rejected in the very ending... He was going to replace Fahrenheit for Bvlgari's Eau Parfumme au Thé Vert... It was going to be released only in 1992! It was a 90's hit!! In the same year, 1988, Pierre Bourdon would create Cool Water and change all the male colognes' market with a fresh and lighter scent instead of the 80's monsters... Dior had the opportunity to breakthrough and change the market... instead they preferred being conservative and playing safe... Currently they proof they were wrong releasing Aqua Fahrenheit... A lighter and fresh version of it. A pure contradiction. And honestly? I don't care if Derby was a big commercial failure! Profits doesn't build a good cologne... Not everybody has good taste for cologne, so it doesn't mean just because Derby was not popular in the late 90's it doesn't deserve to be on the market anymore. That's my opinion! It is different from yours... but I didn't need to insult you calling you uninformed or blind manual follower...

I was able to build a 30 mil atomizer of this classic fragrance, took a few mini's to build, and over time I blended them all into a really nice atomizer. I decided to wear some classic fragrances for a little while started with some vintage paco r that I had. I am always the first one in so I always put my fragrance on 15 to 20 minutes before anyone comes in, the first lady in always notices what fragrance I am wearing. I try and wear something different everyday as I try out samples and just some that I own. she has been here 8 months and she says, omg that one smells incredible. I think that one is my favorite so far,she said it smells so masculine or manly..i need to get that for my husband surprised me a bit as I have been able to wear some very highly regarded fragrances. I read a lot of the reviews on this wonderful site and try fragrances based on that. I have always loved to smell nice and I think some people don't notice the difference between aqua velva and aventus. so when I get a compliment like that it makes me revisit a fragrance again. she is right, this is one incredible fragrance. I have still not sampled the newer version but I think it might let me down. so now I am on the hunt for more mini's of the old bottle. I now see why this got 5 stars from luca turin. you well smell good. very well done guerlain.

The vintage Derby is perhaps the quintessential masculine chypre. It's mossy, herbaceous, leathery spiciness is very distinctive to the point of being unique. It's one of those rare fragrances with a transportive quality. For me, this takes me back to my childhood in the '80s. With so many powerhouse fragrances around at that time, it is testament to the quality of this fragrance that it holds up today as a masterpiece. It has a restrained, sophisticated nature that envelops you like the best smelling blanket. Derby is the perfect scent for me and as close to a signature as I will ever likely come. The initial sharp citruses, underpinned by mossy, spicy accords lead to a scent that is both calming and uplifting at the same time. The reformulated version offers a modern, post IFRA take on the vintage and while that version undoubtedly has it's place in my rotation, I consider this vintage version as one of the jewels of my collection. Vintage Derby embodies everything that was great about masculine perfumery in the '80s and is a fragrance that no lover of chypres should be without. Despite it's EdT concentration, it gives me wonderful performance and has year-round versatility. Overall, this ranks as one of the finest fragrances ever made. I plan to use my bottle sparingly and lovingly for the rest of my days.

I mean for me, this is the greatest masculine Guerlain and probably one of the greatest fragrances for men ever created, so it's a little redundant to talk about notes and such but to me this is a vibrant powdery, carnation and quintessential mossy perfume. Elegant, aerated just perfect and can do no wrong in my eyes. One issue I have is the price and scarcity of the vintage bottle, (not helped by reviews like this one) is extremely prohibitive and I'm someone who has admired this perfume from afar for many years, just watching supplies dry up and prices skyrocket, so I've only got myself to blame. Another thing is that while the older bottles have all that vintage charm and aged, base body and depth, I feel as though the reissued Parisiens version has understandably brighter top notes, and more of the original intent that the old stuff probably had, when it was new, and just an overall appeal to me personally, so I guess that's why I'd seek that one out. And finally did.....but now that's been discontinued. eeek!!! Bottom line is this is an amazing, landmark piece of perfumery, and a friend of mine recently sent me a sample to reacquaint myself with the vintage version and it's just spectacular to wear and feel.