Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette

(Comparison of a 1988 EdT, a new EdP formulation, and a new Parfum formulation) This is silly. Why am I doing this. I’ve toyed with this for years. I’ve toyed with my “final” review(s) of the EdC/EdT through ad infinitum drafts that never seem to be done. Do I write separate reviews of these various concentrations and let them stand separately on their own? Do I put my thoughts on them together to appropriately showcase their marked differences, and let them stand on their own that way? Wouldn’t it make more sense to compare a new EdT formulation to the newer EdP and Parfum concentrations instead of an original EdT?... A significant reason for my wayward indecisiveness, which should be stated for full transparency, is that the EdC and EdT are going to be difficult for me to approach with any semblance of objectivity or rationality: the EdT is the first perfume I truly fell in love with. The first time I smelled it, many years back in my formative days, was an epiphany. I couldn’t get enough of it. After what was then a short number of years of only having explored a relatively small number perfumes that were highly commercial designer scents, finally getting to Habit Rouge EdT opened a door into a utopian world. “This is what perfumes can be like?!” To call it revelatory would be an understatement. For the purposes of this review, and for the sake of time and focus, I will leave the original EdC alone for a different time and focus here on the EdT; in a simple bullet point, the biggest difference is the higher strength and diffusiveness of the EdT, otherwise they are virtually the same. The EdT was the first HR I tried and has been a staple of mine ever since, I've gone through bottle after bottle, maintaining a rather obsessive collection of HR across various batches and formulations and concentrations for posterity, and marking HR as the only perfume that could get close enough for me to say it is my signature or my all time favorite. And, when really put to the task to assign a signature or favorite, it is the only one I’ve answered with. So, I’m going to give this a whirl, and accept that no matter what I write about one of the best perfumes ever made I am not going to be happy with what I write. Just take a swing, Nathan. It is what it is. Screw it. Let’s start with the Parfum. It opens with a bang of fruity rum notes. Something akin to the good ol’ effervescent bergamot of the original is trying to make its voice heard amongst the baritone roars but it just can’t, coming across instead as more of a slightly bitter, oily, boozy heat. What proceeds next is a browned caramel, boozy, leathery, vanillic, cured tobacco melange, and there it stays for the most part. The final skin scent leans a bit more dark woody, leathery, more bitter tonka than it is vanilla, and really calling to mind charred oak rum barrels. Habit Rouge has never been referred to as linear, until now with the Parfum. This has no frame of reference to the DNA that is Habit Rouge. Zero. This could (should) actually have been called something other than Habit Rouge. That said, if you can suspend annoyance, bias and preconceptions for a moment, it is very good. Though thick and rich - a big, suet caramel and boozy pudding of a perfume - it is easily wearable, maintains levity and breathability and never goes lumpen, it’s just on the right side of sweet, and very highly addictive. I wore this once during a frigid, snowy Christmas get together, where the smells of a wood fire in the hearth, roasting courses of a meal that took hours to consume, and baking desserts filled the air, family and friends hung on me all throughout the evening to get one more whiff. Habit Rouge though, it is not. The EdP tries for the effervescent bergamot opening and nearly achieves it except for an odd, oily, chemical finish that goes down the back of my throat. Once that calms down, the bergamot does come through as very convincingly HR with a bit more saturation and durability, as you’d expect from an EdP, and lasts for a surprisingly long time. Very slowly the floral heart starts to peak out that is balanced more towards rose than the EdT’s rose-carnation balance. This eventually cedes to a center-stage rose leather accord that is really quite beautiful. The rose is powdery, a touch creamy, and the leather is well-worn and suede-like in its presentation that really calls back to the original if but a bit stronger. The bergamot still carries on, albeit very quietly, and starts to link to the green facet of the patchouli in the base as the rose leather fully takes the stage. There is a regality and luxury to this heart layer of the EdP, compared to the more stately and austere layer of the EdT. The EdP then is a good option for the Habit Rouge lover that wants a bit more of a three piece suit feel, rather than dowdy equestrianism. It is plenty enough like Habit Rouge for me to say “yes, Habit Rouge” but it has its own character. The green facet of the patchouli rising upwards to link with the bergamot is a bit of a worry at first for those intimately familiar with HR, as I am. You question if this is going to descend into a dank green patchouli bomb as does so many masculines of the current day, but it doesn’t. That green quality stays very well behaved, lending a slightly bitter freshness and energy to the base and skin scent as the rest of the patchouli comes forward very faithfully to the original. The suede and vanilla remain as ethereal compliments before having more presence in the skin scent, which is true to the original with the leather, earth, woods, vanilla, and resins. The EdP is intended to be more luxurious and heavier than the EdC/EdT, but this careful and intentional balance of the green note with the earthy patchouli, suede, and vanilla makes sure that it does not get too heavy. There is a vibrancy to this regality and luxury. Lovely. Now for the EdT.... Ok, deep breath, Nathan; steel yourself, you can do this.... Sniffff.... Oh, dear god.... The sparkling, yellow-green and effervescent bergamot can cut through the darkest of moments. The conjunction of dusty aldehydes creates a hazy but determined sunlight that radiates from your person, not upon you. It is confidence and energy. There is a tango that starts with this bergamot and the fresh green herbs and slightly anisic woody notes coming up from the heart layer. The tension of this dancing pair is palpable, but instantly magnetic. The seamless lock-step movements with each other are stunning. Chills. It truly gives me chills. As the tango nears the end, a slightly creamy and heady carnation accented by woody spices comes in to resolve the tension. There is a bit of rose for breadth, and a touch of dry earth for depth, with the rose gaining intensity as time goes on. The rose stays on the side of gently powdery and pink, the accented tips of the petals of the carnation. The vanilla and leather at the base are in the background, quietly waiting their turn. They are clear on their instructions: let the rose, carnation, and spices have their turn; wait. The experience is all the better for it. As the base begins to take over, Habit Rouge still has plenty of tricks up its sleeve with this chypre plus amber combination. This blend is impossible. How does Habit Rouge have everything, a kitchen sink approach, yet presents as a fine broth made by a legendary chef rather than a soupy canned concoction a wannabe throws into a pot? Gently animalic leathers, a touch-sweet vanilla, creamy sandalwood, dry beige-brown and loamy patchouli, wisps of damp and green oakmoss, and resins of benzoin and labdanum that are just barely sticky like a very deep and slightly dried earthy honey; the rose and carnation gently caress the base before they depart. Just how. I can barely describe the dry down from the heart to the base without almost getting misty-eyed. It remains one of the most beautiful - and certainly probably my favorite - dry downs I have ever smelled. Nothing feels rushed, but timed exactly as it should be; the trees do not matter, it’s the forest we should be keeping an eye on. All the while the richness and diffusiveness become one with the air around you, never taking up a lot of space or attention but impossible to ignore. Ooof. I barely got through that, but yet I did. Hooray for me. In final thoughts, the Parfum is not Habit Rouge. It is quite good, but it should’ve been called something else. It has nothing to do with Habit Rouge. Therefore, if you like the Parfum enough to go full-bottle do not worry about putting a different Habit Rouge in your collection and creating redundancy. You won’t. The EdP is a faithful, appreciable, and wonderful reworking of Habit Rouge. For the Habit Rouge lover that needs a bit more oomph and saturation, it will do quite well, though the most noticeable differences will be the slightly off timing of the note evolutions, the greater prominence of the rose and leather, and some slightly screechy synthetic qualities - but the differences are negligible when the EdP is considered on its own, and rather simply a detraction relative to the experience of an original EdC/EdT when they are compared. The EdT is a masterpiece. Full stop. Yes, surely and certainly, it smells dated. Even in the 1960s when it was released it smelled a bit retro. But perfection doesn’t come with an expiration date. Yes, I used that word - and I stand by it. With nearly every perfume I have ever worn there is at least something about each of them that I could say I would slightly tweak a bit; at least a very tiny wishlist item that would make it a bit better. Not Habit Rouge. I would not change anything about it. If my home were to catch fire, there are three things I would grab: my partner, my dog, and my stash of vintage Habit Rouge. This perfume will be front and center of my collection, and with me for the rest of my days.

I am quite amazed by this fragrance for a multitude of reasons which I will be as thorough and probably concise as possible but the latter is quite difficult because there is so much to talk about in this creation. This fifty-nine-year-old fragrance, probably twenty-one if the reformulation counts, is one of the most impressive fragrances that stood the test of time. I cannot deny the still noticeable old-fashioned quality of a decades-old fragrance, but it is still quite wearable for people these days, and more suitable for those who can truly appreciate the art of perfumery, such as this creation by Jean-Paul Guerlain. The AI-generated pros and cons list is fairly accurate, and what caught my eye the most is "Distinctively French Fragrance" which got me thinking. I'm not French nor have that much knowledge of French perfumery, but reviewing this creation felt like an answer was immediate when asking oneself if it is one of the most iconic French perfumes in history, and I believe it may be up there. Getting on to the composition breakdown of this fragrance. The main notes here are the sharp lemon, beautiful rose, leather, and powdery vanilla notes. Then the other notes that add complexity to the scent are rosewood, carnation, patchouli, sandalwood, and a quartet of citruses (bergamot, orange, lime, and tangerine). Usually, lemon is one of the more old-fashioned citruses in perfumery, followed by orange in the 2000s (notable in fragrances such as Terre D'Hermes), and in modern perfumery where bergamot and grapefruit are the more used these days due to their balanced qualities (sharpness, bitterness, sweetness). And while people may not lean on these types of notes as much as before, these types of perfumes are usually meant to be appreciated for their craftsmanship and history. I am twenty years old and I already have reached the idea of wearing what I love and what suits me rather than following the trend of "compliment-getters", which sounds like a person is wearing the perfume that others will love immediately rather than appreciating the beauty in the scent. The rose and powdery vanilla accord, are one of the most popular notes during the early days of perfumery as other floral notes, usually white florals (jasmine, neroli, etc.) are more appropriate again in modern perfumery, while vanilla hasn't really been considered dated as it's smell will never be tarnished by time due to it being one of the most important notes altogether. Both of them are again "old-fashioned" considering this is an old fragrance with the reformulation slightly making it smell more appropriate in the 21st century without sacrificing the identity of the perfume. The leather note is one of the main notes that makes this bottle more masculine, even though this creation was initially considered to be unisex regardless if it was marketed to men. I have read the review below and one said that it is some form of Guerlain Shalimar but for men which I could see honestly. As a firm believer of feminine notes in men's fragrances, this is such an amazing step for Guerlain to do for such a very old fragrance. The rest of the notes I listed above may not be noticeable individually but they most likely improved the composition with the traditional quartet of citrus, the soft and powdery sandalwood, and the subtle green and floral of jasmine and patchouli. Now on to the longevity, projection, and value of the perfume. For its longevity, I expected Guerlain which people often underlook its quality control as a perfume house that does not cut out or weaken their composition for their own gain, and as usual, they did amazing with this. I currently have the modern bottle (clear square bottle, red label, and cap) and it lasted me six to eight hours with four to six sprays, and that's quite impressive for its lemon opening and rose-vanilla base. For projection, there isn't much to say as it is considered moderate and that's a good thing, as I believe fragrances should be discovered rather than announced to an entire room full of people. And lastly, its value is what is considered to be from great to excellent depending on where you will buy it. It is usually around $70 to $110, but if you do manage to get it on the cheaper side, it may be one greatest quality-to-price ratios in traditional perfumes. I believe anyone can wear most fragrances and fit their personalities, as long as they know how to use them properly. This type of old-fashioned perfume, will immediately click in the minds of people today that it is a fragrance for old and mature people, but it doesn't mean it will only suit them. I am quite young (early 20s) and I have surprisingly reached the part of perfumery where I want to appreciate the craftsmanship and the artistic beauty behind the composition rather than wearing what others will immediately consider pleasing them which started the "compliment-getter" trend. It is obviously not a bad thing, but people will miss out on experiencing the art of perfumery. I also might have discovered a quote that I resonate with a lot "Habit Rouge will make curious people intrigued by its beauty". As much as I feel weird to say this, another reason for me to buy this perfume is that I watched Jeremy Fragrance's video on his visit in Guerlain's headquarters and factory where he met Thiery Wasser himself. And a part of that video, Thiery shared his methodology in making a fragrance which is quite impressive and told him that he always wear Habit Rouge (Eau de Parfum specifically), which made me more convinced to get a bottle. I personally decided to make this my everyday perfume. I often use it in the daytime but is still great for night but I have L'Homme Ideal Eau de Parfum as my night-time fragrance. As other reviewers say, it's not that compatible during summer where the rose and vanilla might be too harsh in the heat, but it is still possible to wear it in warmer days as long it isn't blazing hot. I am still divided on whether I could wear this with casual attire or restrain myself towards smart-casual to formal attires, but I do spray less during casual events, whether staying at home or walking around during the day. Overall, Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette is an exceptionally beautiful fragrance that people will love if they also enjoy its traditional yet contemporary composition of notes. Its 4.18 review here is very accurate and quite impressive for such a scent this old, yet a lot of people still wear this and also surprisingly in production. And again, sample this first before deciding on buying a bottle since these aren't considered a good blind buy (also, blind buys in general is a bad idea). This creation will remain as one of the most historical creations in French perfumery altogether. Key points: - A traditional masterpiece in French perfumery - A fragrance meant to be appreciated rather than to appeal - Its lemon, rose, vanilla, leather blend is still impressive - Quite versatile, though hotter climates may not suit well (warmer temperatures is appropriate still) - More suitable for smart-casual/formal attire, while casual is still fine

There are some occasions when you review a fragrance that feel very conflicted and Habit Rouge is one example. It is one of those fragrances that feels as though it has been around forever and yet none of us know anyone who wears it. I've tried it three or four times in the past and it has caught me in a mess of indecision every time. I still have no idea whether I like, love or loathe this fragrance. It reminds me a bit of one of my ex-girlfriends. She didn't wear this but it sort of feels like something she'd have worn, literally and as an avatar for her, emotionally. So the opening is undeniably screechy and has all the citrusy notes here (yes, all of them and a couple of them twice it feels like) working with a very, very strong rose that is only partially reigned into politeness by some jasmine in the heart. The effect is a soapy citrus opening that seems too strong for itself, as if it is never truly under control somehow. The opening is polarising. I find the rose a bit too strong and it pushes this a bit too floral in the opening. You find yourself trying to justify it. But the drydown is a much calmer and more careful experience and I think this is where the beauty of this classic Guerlain comes into focus. The florals back off just enough as the myriad citruses start to die off and you get this gorgeous, rich patchouli and some spices that take this off its tracks completely and into territory I enjoy greatly. There is a slight creaminess to the base from the vanilla, labdanum and the amber that makes it go almost powdery and the patchouli does yeoman's duty in keeping this from careening off the edge and into a ravine of madness. I especially enjoy the way the oak moss and slightly musty leather in the base add yet another facet, again helping this from being too sweet and powdery. It is a funny one, this. It never stops being impossibly rich and powerful to an extent I don't think I've ever seen in an EDT concentration before, but the richness becomes more agreeable and plays better with others as it settles. I'd certainly recommend giving this one 30 minutes on your skin before making a judgement. This is not a fragrance you could or should ever make a decision on from the tester strip and if that isnt a metaphor for the aforementioned ex I don't know what is. I get a solid 7-8 hours off this and it projects solidly the whole time. Everyone around you knows you are wearing this. I've never tried the EDP or other heavier flanker concentrations of the Habit Rouge line but lets just say: at no point during the times I've worn this have I ever wished for it to be more powerful or to reach out and touch people from the parking lot. Would I wear this? It is unisex but leans quite heavily feminine for me and very powerful, extremely full-on, slightly cray-cray feminine fragrances can be a difficult reach. Habit Rouge EDT is a little bit in-your-face-bouquet floral for me so would be a daytime only thing I think, but at the same time it is very powerful indeed and would be a statement maker to wear to the office or boardroom. I'd need to be in the mood for it, although I quite enjoy the effect of wearing retro fragrances to work like Egoiste Platinum, Paco Rabanne or Antaeus. I see Habit Rouge as very much in this bracket and that isnt a criticism, merely an indication of where and when I would reach for it. But I would reach for it. I think most of all this is an interesting bit of perfumery that gives your nose a real workout. You sometimes have to talk yourself into liking it, especially when she is out of control and spinning in chaos in your personal space. Habit Rouge is a serious fragrance with serious performance you may not be expecting from an EDT, and is a nice example of a the way florals, citruses, woods, mossy notes, textured resin-ey notes, sweet, sour, bitter and so on can all be turned up to full volume and be made - compelled through sheer force of will at times, it feels - to work together. In the end, my ex and I never worked out and we arent in contact any more. But Habit Rouge EDT retains a spot in my collection for those (rare) moments where I crave the chaos and drama. Three Word Summary - A Rare Craving Scent - 6/10 Drydown - 7/10 Sillage - 8/10 Bottle/packaging - 7/10 Performance - 9/10 37/50

AN OLD FAITHFUL PARTNER My faithful old retriever Billy, a companion who shares many memories with me, is almost eleven years old. His soft but happy gaze remains full of a desire to play, although his legs no longer accompany him with the same energy as before. Ten years ago, he met my girlfriend, who is now my wife. He is now sitting next to me, watching me write this text peacefully. If I stop writing, his eyes open a little more in anticipation of affection or, who knows, a cookie. To my right is a bottle of "Habit Rouge EDT by Guerlain" that shares almost as many memories with me as my retriever. In it, I also find the liveliness of its notes, as well as the pleasure and comfort it gives me when I use it. Like many other dog owners, I think mine is very special. After the surprises of the first days, a relationship of trust and complicity was established between us. and remains unbreakable to this day. The Habit Rouge flask is also still here beside me. Several thoughts arise when I look at the flask. It is really different from any other fragrance with its superb note composition. The scent is still as delicious as it was when we first met. Its versatility allows me to use it in any place, any season, day or night. And he has never let me down. It has enough stamina for any occasion or place. Habit Rouge opens with a strong lemon note that I specifically identify as Persian lime (citrus limettioides), Probably, due to other citrus minor notes and basil, it smells like strong pleasant lemon tea. It's a powerful good quality lemon for sure. This stage is quite long which is a bit unusual. We can only conclude that this is a high-quality fragrance as it presents an above-average projection, sillage and longevity for this type of note composition. With the hearth stage, the scent becomes powdery with florals and sandalwood flavours, not losing the initial heavy lemon tea. The transition is subtle and well-blended. The bottom stage reveals a smooth yet persistent leather-vanilla accord. The transition flows like a wide river. You get the changes at a very slow pace while the primary notes are gently left behind, What a fantastic harmony! The dry down is just a bit sweet and extremely pleasant as well. The sweet and powdery leather-vanilla blend gives you a long moment of peace and joy. I judge the overall performance to be above average, mainly because the bold and fresh scents stay available for quite a long time. This fragrance is a unique and happy experience. Due to its well-tamed sweetness, I imagine this fragrance is unisex as well. I can picture its magnificent powdery sweet Vanilla-Leather drying down on a woman's skin. If you never tried it, don't know what you are missing. My Habit Rouge family (EDP, EDT, L'Eau, Dress Code) will always have a place in my heart as well as in my closet. My old faithful partner "Habit Rouge" in numbers: ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ Opening: 9.5 (strong Persian lime/lemon with bitter orange) Drydown: 9.5 (unique and alluring leather/vanilla blending) Longevity: 8.5 (above average; 3 sprays in the back of my hand vanished only after 10 hours) Sillage: 7.5 (average to above average; It projects heavily for a couple of hours and you get a sillage of up to 5 feet) Versatility: 9.5 (almost an all-weather scent) Usability: 9.0 (close to any place, anywhere) Exclusivity: 10.0 (unique, at least for me) Praise: 8.5 (Very good, but not in the major league of compliment grabbers) Quality: 10.0 (outstanding) Presentation: 7.5 (very conservative but extremely elegant and classy) Price: 8.5 (100ml tester for €30 at FragranceX + taxes in 2017; The normal 100 ml flask sells currently slightly under €40) ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ Average: 8.95 / 10,00 between 8 and 9 = recommended; Opinion: One of the best existing "all-around" scents. I really like it. The citrus notes are very pleasant and almost eternal. The leather-vanilla accord is unique. Recommended? Yes, please. Is blind buy worthy? Yes! Music: Simon & Garfunkel - "America"

TL;DR: a remarkable technical exercise in male perfumery, and one of the most dynamic scents I've encountered. Whether you like it or not is, in a way, neither here nor there. Encountering this scent is like getting the technical manual for perfumes. It's also absolutely stunning. The EdT also functioned to unlock the eau de parfum, as well. The EdT is more citrus in the opening, and incense/ambery in the drydown. The EdP is more rosey throughout, and feels more modern and (strangely for a floral) more masculine. ====== This scent represents something of an 'end point' to a fragrance journey, in that it feels that, now that I've smelled it, I can put down my lance, and give up the quest for the Holy Grail. Of course, I'll pick it right back up again - journey not the destination, blah blah... But. You know. Grail-ish, if not the Grail. The evolutions of this scent are amongst the most sophisticated dry-down experiences I've ever had. I already owned, and loved, the eau de parfum version of this, but this one behaves very differently. The opening is much more obviously citrusy than the EdP, and the drydown....my goodness, what a revelation. It is a rich, warm, sticky-but-not-sweet incensey amber-rose, which is (to me) almost overwhelmingly beautiful. It is a resinous, ambery joy running as a spine through hours 2-5 of wearing it. Now that I've smelled that dry down, I can sense it more clearly in the eau de parfum too, although it is far less conspicuous there. The eau de toilette feels like the exact opposite of the types of successful fragrances of now: it is the antithesis of Pasha Parfum, Sauvage Elixir, and Penhaligons Fantastic Mr Poshboy Gaw Blimey Me Beads Parody of Olde Englande. Although obviously a product of history, this feels more 'classic' than old. I'm a lover of many 70s and 80s perfumes, and I recognise that they really do seem from a different world; but Habit Rouge (both edt and edp) absolutely does not feel antiquated. It's like a trench coat or a little black dress: always correct, making the young seem sophisticated not fuddy-duddy. Interestingly, the eau de toilette makes much less of a play of the rose than the eau de parfum, and yet the EdP probably feels more straightforwardly 'masculine' and modern (floral though it is). But I think women would love both of these scents. Be assured: the eau de parfum is still a worthy extension of this tradition, but it wears a lot more 'modern' and contemporary than the eau de toilette. However, having smelled this, I can say: 1. I like this more than the eau de parfum. 2. This has taught me to like the eau de parfum even more than I did, because now I 'read' the EdP differently. It's like the one is the key to the other. The EdP may be more of a summer version of this scent profile than the EdT. I like them both very, very much, and they both seem to me to be, more than ever, the real Shakespeare plays of the masculine perfume world - though women would love this too. Knowing one has deepened my understanding of the other.