Kadine (2021)

Despite the distinct similarities to Après L'Ondée from the same house, I love this scent because it's citrus and greeny version of ALO mentioned above, which allows me to use it without second thoughts in spring and summer time as well. The volumetric olfactive structure of Iris is still very much there, enhanced by leather accords aired uo with vanilla, but acts much lighter and fresher with the bergamot and green leaf accords on top notes, which I assume, wasn't all that easy to blend with such solid and fundamental accords such as orris root and leather in such a great harmony, for which the jasmine and rose notes play an important role IMO, the jasmine here is not oriental like in L'Heure Bleu, but a less indolic variant of the flower like the spanish jasmine, it is very well blended hence for me a great summer version of Après L'Ondée

A good percentage of the Guerlain "oeuvre" are refractions and reinterpretations of Apres L'Ondee's DNA--from classics like Fol Arome and L'HB to the very new Mon Precieux Nectar, Quand Vient La Pluie, etc. Kadine definitely falls within this trajectory. In a lot of ways it feels like connective tissue between Apres L'Ondee and the rooty, creamy iris accord at the heart of L'Heure Bleue (minus all the ornate spice and amber). It begins with a quick blast of bergamot and herbs and a startling and noticeable "funk" from what feels like para-cresyl acetate--a skunky, barnyard-ey scent with elements of narcissus and castoreum. After those fireworks, the powdery/doughy/almondy anisic aldehyde, also characteristic of ALO's opening, shines through. From there, it segues pretty quickly to a dry, somewhat doughy, and then eventually sueded orris root shaded and slightly sweetened by a lightly indolic jasmine. It hums along like this, the jasmine receding and orris root/suede profile growing until it fades. It has the same chilly atmosphere of Apres l'Ondee, but a thicker orris note. It lacks the warmth and coziness of the full vanilla/coumarin Guerlinade--it's a touch vanillic, but seems to be totally missing coumarin. Because of that, it's interestingly austere, sharp, and, for me, free of any gendered associations. I don't really get much of a clovey/carnation aspect or rosiness. It is lovely and feels from a different time. Ultimately, as far as these exceptional creation reissues go, last year's reissue of Fol Arome feels like a more complete and distinct perfume in this lineage but still its own creation--as mentioned, this version of Kadine feels kind of like the beautiful orris accord from L'HB. I hope Guerlain continues to go through their back catalogue as it's lovely to experience these.

While visiting a Turkish palace, Jacques Guerlain came across a portrait of a woman in the harem and was fascinated. He decided that he wanted a fragrance for the lady in the picture, as soft and delicate as a veil that clings to the skin. Anise-violet-iris-vanilla structure in the vein of L’Heure Bleue and Apres l’Ondee. Take the powdered iris from L’Heure Bleue and scale it up, stand alone, until the iris is the sole protagonist. The texture of Kadine is soft and romantic, full of femininity. Repeatedly emphasizing the beauty and elegance of orris root, it is bound to be the best orris root fragrance in the eyes of some people. I can even omit the jasmine, vanilla, but that familiar almond smell...well, that's why I don't love iris. Kadine sits on the opposite side of lris Silver Mist, the grotesque orris root incense, on the other side, Kadine is a good friend of La Pausa 28 or L’Attesa, with the delicate tone of Guerlain. Unlike Fol Arome in 2020, Kadine is not as rich in terms of richness. It is completely an salon style with orris as the mainstay.

Sergei Prokofiev's favourite perfume..

This is all about Orris. Rooty, voluptuous, slightly sweet, powdery, exalting, “old school” orris supported by some florals and spices. It’s beautiful but not groundbreaking. There is an obvious resemblance with L’Heure Bleue, its younger sister. To me it seems like both Fol Arome and Kadine were Jacques Guerlain’s consecutive stations in developing of what later became known as L’Heure Bleue.