L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum

Comparison of new batches of L’Heure Bleue Extrait, EdP, and EdT. This enthusiastic vintage hunter curiously doesn’t own a vintage L’Heure Bleue, an oversight I hope to correct in the near future with a bit of good luck (and quite a bit of cash). This legend is coveted for good reason. Fortunately, I haven’t found a critical need to chase after one since Guerlain has kept LHB in solid shape. Gratitude and commendations to them and Thierry Wasser for that. There are some differences to the vintages, of course, and there should be, but LHB’s DNA and identity are firmly intact in new formulations. The biggest differences between the new and the old is the precision of the floral heart, which is clearer and sharper in new formulations, and the vintages are more generous with animal musks lending them to a sweeter and more civety feel in the dry downs. Sticking strictly to the new formulations, here are the key differences between them. The first, no surprise, is the speed with which they progress. The EdT being the fastest, it reaches its dry down in a couple of hours - which is quite a bit faster by at least a couple of hours compared to vintage EdTs. It’s cheap, so don’t worry about it; lather yourself in it and you’ll get an on-par experience for today’s EdTs. The EdP is the second fastest, reaching its dry down in about four hours. This is on par with vintage EdPs and what you should expect from today’s EdPs. Finally, the extrait is the slowest, reaching its dry down in about 8 hours. This is definitely quicker than vintages, which took about ten, but it is on par with today’s extraits. Notably though, the top notes of the extrait dispense very quickly, within an hour; this is unusually quick for an extrait of any period. While we’re on the subject of top notes, there lies the most perceptible difference between the three new formats. The EdT is mostly bitter and sour bergamot, with a fleck of anise. The EdP gives the same bitter and sour bergamot but better rounded and cooled off by tarragon, sage, touches of coriander, and the citrusy floral of orange blossom. The extrait is the most bracing of the three. The sour and bitter bergamot is virtually the same but the anise note is turned way up. This makes the extrait stand out quite a bit from the other two as darker, spicier, and woodier. This experience aligns, I believe, with vintage versions I have tried and are recalling to memory, but that is likely irrelevant since the age of vintage versions will mean most of those top notes have died off to some degree. In the heart they are virtually the same, and smell like LHB has done for a very long time. The quietly beating heart of LHB is what makes this perfume so special. Red and fleshy roses; creamy and spicy carnations; powdery and dry orris and violets; benzoin of the base and the carnation harmonizing to a quiet note of cinnamon like a thread running through the perfume. The EdT’s heart is more monodimensional than the extrait’s or the EdP’s, opting for more of the creamy and spicy carnations and a white floral amalgam in comparison to the extrait’s and EdP’s less abstract and more dynamic presentations. Very good nonetheless. The extrait pushes a bit more jasmine to the front than the other two. Every time I smell LHB’s heart I get vivid images of a bouquet in a very old and dusty home that has seen more than its fair share woeful tales. The heart is eerily quiet and dark, but yet gentle and affectionately soft at the same time. Near the end of the day, the EdT is long gone from my skin, having moved to a skin scent of earthy tonka, sweet and woody benzoin, and powdery orris many hours ago. Simple and very pleasant. The EdP just tucked in about a couple hours ago, having gone in quite a different direction. Creamy sandalwood, peppery cedar, sweet benzoin, and a good dose of green vetiver. The extrait is finally at its skin scent, with its base comfortably between the two, most notably with an absence of green vetiver, opting for more warm woods and orris. Though the extrait and the EdP are a bit different in their dry downs, they have enough in common to be called the same, and for me this dry down is one of the best in perfume history. It’s gorgeous. So there you have it, new LHB in a nutshell, quick and dirty. Which one you prefer is entirely up to your tastes and need for practicality. All three are wearable any time and any place, even the extrait - though bigger, louder, and richer, it is never too much for any particular setting. However, practically, it’s likely cost prohibitive for the vast majority of us. Your choice, and there’s no better or worse choice. It’s L’Heure Bleue after all, one of the best of all time.

L'Heure Bleue is a peace of mind. Do you want to know Guerlain? You buy L’Heure Bleue and sniff alone. You will know what’s call “Guerlainade”. The opening is not iffy the best. But when the floral had bloom. You’re in the middle of the bloom garden. Lay on bed of cocooning sweet powdery iris. That’s all, Essential of Guerlain. ==== Extension of previous review. I pass this to my partner, which mostly hate any perfume I put on. And he is not into perfume, he is stinky boy. He had zero knowledge about perfume. I ask him “how was it?” He replied “Yes, this smells good” “Is it smell old?” I ask again. He told me “No, this is not old, this smell like something a noble should wear. it is not old, but it is a scent that class people would wear in pervious time” I freeze, he doesn’t even know the background of this parfum but he replied correctly. This ends up smell like soft nivea cream on my skin. A true blue. A true blue. ===== Extension 1 on Feb 20, 2024 After I received the bottle of L’heure bleue. I used to almost every night.. (only 1-2 night that I used Eau de Guerlain) but when I wake up in the new morning. I never really satisfied as a night I use L’heure bleue... It starts to become part of my night time ritual.. after drying my hair, puts on some cream. I feel incomplete without 4 sprays of L’heure bleue. ===== Extension 2 on Mar 17, 2024 I can't still figure it out where is L'Heure Bleue belongs in perfumery wheel. It is somewhere between Floral, Powdery Iris and Amber. Is this amber-floral?, is this florentlal? or is it touch floral woody musk? I have no idea.. at this point. But I know that I enjoy her company every night. I love the fact that all my bedsheet and pillow smells like softly L'Heure Bleue. Because the scent I spray on my body and cloth transfer to them. And I feel cocooning comfort every time I get into the night. I am starts to wonder.. that Fragrance venturer can enjoy certain this much.. But, yes I do.. now. my 100 ml. bottle from 2017 having quite a gap now. 10ml. has been usage to pamper myself every night since last day of January 2024 and I feel like other scent doesn't really matter but L'Heure Bleue. L'Heure Bleue is a piece of mine. ===== Extension 3 on July 9, 2024 I have used half of my bottle now. The scent is very open up than the first time I used, details is more perceive same as my feeling. Dew carnation and powdery heliotrope, the floral waltz, spicy warm ballroom, woody sandalwood. It is still and remains hug in the bottle. The note dancing in the different time, until it end with powdered skin. When I lost.. I always come back to L’heure Bleue as affirmation. Yeah, my feeling always the same. As body couldn’t lie. I love L’heure Bleue. ===== Extension 4 on Aug 6, 2025 I don't ever think there will be an another extension on L'Huere Bleue. As most feeling stay the same as is. But here. I am on my last 10 ml. of my first bottle, still I have another 4 bottles back me up. They are all 2017 version tho., I do depart from this L'heure Bleue. But I definitely register how perfume should be, like how my body determine a good perfume. My current palette develop into an L'heure Bleue-Estique. Concoction of Carnation and Spicy Clove, on powdered Sweet Powdered Amber, slight balsam Labdanum-y. L'heure Bleue always a place I come back. It doesn't feel like home but it like an evaluation (check-point; kind of). and affirmative statement when I need. And it always never fail. Current 2017 feels slight flat to my current nose right now. But I think that define, how nose can develop... So I come back to L'heure Bleue once a month or two. But.. I walk a market during the weekend. There is a vintage shop. And I found Guerlain box, it's big. As I stay in Thailand. I think it definitely a Mitsouko. (You know Mitsouko flood South-East Asia from Japan). A shock when I open it and found L'huere Bleue. And.. again another freeze, when I found it is a falcon from 1930 in seal condition. I rest for a night and can't shake my mind of this (probably) most dateable and well preserve bottle I could ever get my hand on. So I went back and brought, it cost USD280. A French guy, name Pascal. Told me a Granny from French decide to sell her vintage fragrance.. How in a million daylight that I could walk to a way I never walk. Just to notice a bottle of Guerlain, and in the last bid on earth, To be a well preserved L'Heure Bleue from 1930s. Just to land on my hands. ... L'Heure Bleue might be a fragrance that find you.

LIFE STARTS AT DUSK L'Heure Bleue - the blue hour - was born in 1912 by the hands and nose of Jacques Guerlain. The era was pre-1st war, the impressionist age, the crazy years, and the industrial revolution with its bourgeoisie starting the revelry in the blue hour... the dusk. It is a floral oriental fragrance with the dusky scent of candies and almond cake (by the strong heliotrope) bought in an old-world apothecary (due to its powdery accord). Of the fantastic feminine trio I have labelled as minimally unisex - Shalimar, Jicky, and L'Heure Bleue - the latter has the less masculine facet. The opening presents us with anise liquorice, too fleeting for my will, and that surrenders to the somewhat intense florals, with emphasis on the iris and violet (with its characteristic powder), the heliotrope (smelling like almond and vanilla), and for the clove (with a clove-like spicy scent). The spices are in the background - cloves, cinnamon, and tonka - rounding off the sweetness of the floral notes. Sandalwood, benzoin, and vanilla stand out later, and ensure a long and pleasant dry down, leaving the fragrance more unisex. The performance is quite generous. Three spays are good enough for ten hours, with a sillage up to six feet and close to three hours of projection. I have used this perfume in the middle of a group of people and for several times. I aroused curiosity and heard comments about wearing an elegant perfume that stood out among the reigning masculine ambroxan. I confess to have been very pleased with my choice whenever I used L'Heure Bleue. In a woman, this perfume invariably draws everyone's attention for its oriental warmth, and spices charm framing the floral notes. It is a true masterpiece. How can I measure this twilight scent? ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ - Opening: 8.5 (semi-fresh sweet opening with anise and florals) - Dry Down: 9.5 (long, more unisex bottom and dry down, with sweet spices and sandalwood) - Longevity: 9.0 (3 sprays can last up to 10 hours) - Sillage: 8.0 (up to 6 feet with 3 sprays; it projects for 3.0 hours) - Uniqueness: 9.5 (It has its own individuality that has been sustained for more than 100 years now. I don't recall any similar fragrance besides its flankers, the older Après L'Ondée also by Guerlain, and, in a lesser degree, Esprit d'Oscar by Oscar de la Renta) - Wearability: 9.0 (Almost a four seasons fragrance for outdoors or indoors, day or night; avoid the hot summer days) - Versatility: 8.5 (A compelling oriental near unisex fragrance; excellent for a wide number of occasions even if its class and sensuality demand formal events. Very adequate for intimacy only if used by a woman. Don't use it in the gym or in the beach) - Compliments: 8.5 (You will smell very good to everybody, and people will admire you; My classification reflects the average of my opinions: 8.0 for a man and 9.0 for a woman) - Quality: 10.0 (well above-average quality ingredients, good flask, nice sprayer; handy refill bottles) - Presentation: 9.0 (very good presentation, in my opinion, although quite feminine... but it is a feminine fragrance after all) - Price: 8.0 (EdP 75 ml non-tester for € 55.00 + shipping on sale. Price of this flask usually starts at € 70.00) ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ Overall rating: 8.86 / 10.00 - between 7 and 8 = above average; - between 8 and 9 = recommended; - greater than 9 = do not miss; My recommendation: This is a fragrance landmark, more feminine than masculine. I do recommend it for ladies. I can only recommend it for men after testing it and never as blind buy. Music: Charles Aznavour - "Que C ́Est Triste Venise"

The most reflective, melancholic scent I have ever worn. If you are sad, it is not the moment to test this vintage beauty for the first time! If you are happy and outgoing, it still might not be your scent. A particularly lovely scent suitable for the reflective introvert, NOT prone to depression. ;) Not pretty, not smiling, not even cute. She is elegant, secretive, and elusive. You must also love the classic 'Geurlainade' blend, for she has that same DNA. Not precisely seductive, but on the right skin absolutely addictive! I get hugged a lot while wearing this fragrance, and I do think it has a decided allure of it's own. TIME TRAVEL. You have entered another era altogether, one in which ladies wore clocked stockings and had not even heard of 'panty hose'. One where young ladies could still choose between becoming a debutante and a suffragette! One where makeup is considered slightly scandalous but worn secretively anyway... by the sophisticated. In short, another world altogether. When first testing L'Heure Bleu I had a sense of deep appreciation but also curious puzzlement. Would I WANT to smell this way? But shortly after love took over - and it was a quick flight to passionate desire. Cravings for a scent this complex and unique are hard to explain but easy to justify. There IS nothing else like the elegant, mysterious, enchanting dynamics of this beauty. Though actually, there ARE scents in the same family! L'Heure de Nuit has the same DNA but a much brighter and happier personae, thanks to the dominance of orange blossom. It is a modern and updated sister, without being trite or boring. An excellent choice for those seeking to love L'Heure Bleue... but not quite managing it! I am also a fond fan of Oscar de la Renta's original scent, as well as the flanker, Esprit d'Oscar. Both of these are more like cousins - the first herbal, arid, and uncompromisingly dated in the best possible way. The second heavy in mimosa/heliotrope powder, less herbal, and still arid and boudoir vintage. I have both, wear both, and like both. All of that said, if I had to choose from all of the above for a Most Memorable, Evocative, Emotional scent? L'Heure Bleue, hands down. I have the edp and recommend that version, as current edt's from Guerlain tend to be short lived. GOOD Dupes of classic Guerlains are nearly unknown and so are fakes. Tester bottles or half used bottles on ebay are likely to be the real thing, at a steep discount. Obviously, sampling is highly recommended. Guerlain counters still exist in some department stores and samples can also be ordered. Though not a blind buy, what a BEAUTIFUL buy! You must not blame yourself for disliking any scent, but to experience historical scent, L'Heure Bleue is more or less obligatory! To sum up: HIGHLY recommended, if a bit challenging.

L’Heure Bleu- The Blue Hour After my Mom had gotten through the 60’s and early 70’s with the fad fashion fragrances of the time, she moved into the beginnings of her mid-life elegance, wearing L’Heure Bleu. It was so different for me as a young teen to understand the sophistication of this new fragrance. My young nose had been in training since I was old enough to dab perfume or sprinkle bath powder, but this new and it came across harsh to me, and the “Dry-down” certainly wasn’t “everything,” at least to me. Fast forward many years. I recently had the insane fortune of buying a a “Holy Grail” Bouchon Coeur crystal flask (inverted heart,) Baccarat etched, sealed, (original baudruchage / gold thread,) 75 ml bottle of L’Heure Bleu Extrait, and its 50 ml side kick, a vintage bottle of L’Heure Bleu EDP. It was with these purchases that my own personal infatuation with L’Heure Bleu began. I shall never realize the incredible beauty of the vintage LB Extrait from my own bottle as I can’t bear the thought of “ruining” her perfection, but I am wearing my first LB EDP and re-discovering what an Elegant & timeless beauty L’Heure Bleu really is, as my nose has continued a long and enjoyable fragrance journey through out my life. What L’Heure Bleu is to me: -it starts bright, cheerful and softly spicy, like a cozy softly spiced cup of Chai tea served with a lemon scone drizzled with glaze at a French Patisserie to start the day. - as my day continues, I find myself strolling through the French, sidewalk flower market stalls, enjoying the gloriously fragrant and colorful Heliotrope, the sharp tang of Dianthus, sweet Neroli, Rose and a freshly crushed violet leaf. Such staggering, breath taking, olfactory beauty. “How to choose?” I silently contemplate, which ones will come home with me this day? -as the suns rays grow long my fragrant foray concludes as my senses calmly softening while sinking deeply into my cozy, blue Iris print chair. I’m intentionally breathing deeply, sensual wafts of Tonka, Benzoin, Vanilla pod, rare sandalwood, and fragrant vetiver emanating from a pomander that I freshly filled, sitting on a side table next to my chair. It is then I note that the tall, blue Iris from the flower market have blended perfectly with the blue hue of the evening. An absolutely L’Heure Bleu “perfection” moment. It is then, when the melancholy of missing my Mom and her signature scent, L’Heure Bleu fragrance sets in. This scent evokes many memories, of great maternal love, good family remembrances, all the while exuding the pain from her loss. It is at that point that my “L’Heure Bleu day fades, as beautifully as it began.