L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme EDT

It seems odd to me that patchouli rates so highly on the note breakdown of this composition, yet so few of the reviews below comment on it... I tried LIDG because I was looking for something that would capture some of what I enjoy about Zino (I'm a very recent patchouli convert after avoiding its headshop connotations for years), namely the latter's faceting of patchouli into its requisite dimensions of minty/medicinal/bitter/green but also dirty/cacao/powdery. Well, this is different, but worth seeking out in its own right: a delicately nuanced, metrosexually & molecularly engineered fragrance to be sure, but in its own way a meditation on patchouli, this time revised as a piece of edible silk. Many thoughtful contemporary fragrances are products of postmodernist deconstruction, by which I mean they break things down and reconstruct them, crucially with ‘difference and deference’ (there’s a nifty French word that combines them, naturally, but you get the idea: pay homage but break in down & mix it up & make it new.) It may sound odd, or even offend some readers, but I see LIDG as the ideal fragrance if, like me, you have a very specific but not-unusual set of needs: 1. You love complex, old school aromatic compositions like Davidoff Zino, Azzaro Pour Homme, Sung Homme or Polo Green but recognize that they can be kind of overbearing or outdated in contemporary life (you wear them anyway, but not to bed or the dentist.) 2. You have gotten to the point where you find it tough to grit out compositions that are not made with high quality materials. 3. You now realize that life as a sociable human is not ‘beast mode’ (yikes) projection, but the tactful tracing of character, evolution and longevity; more for the benefit of yourself and your intimates than some sort of mass office emailing. 4. Your holy grail imperative has gradually moved from eyes-rolling-back-in-the-head first spritz to long-haul, low-key dry-down as contemplative state. LIDG is very smooth, light and translucent. It opens with a juicy lemon that is essentially the fragrance offering you a nice scented hand towel to clean up with first. It feels pleasant, hygienic and somehow warm and hollow at the same time, the time in question being maybe less than a minute, which seems fine. Then a beauteous green transition (the orchestra-tuning-up feeling of a brilliant movement through the topnotes) in which you get little traces of a classic fougère introduction: bergamot & lavender with a tint of herbal green, sweetened by anise and mildly spiced with peppery sharpness. The main event follows shortly after: a multifaceted (green but not moldy, earthen but not musty, present but not heavy) patchouli note sits in the centre as genius loci cum absence-presence, conducting a wonderfully perfumed tea leaf accord. It took me a few wearings to get the 'Lapsang' references people have made (real Lapsang is smoky AF with a touch of rough texture; see Lush’s Breath of God if you want a heavy-duty Lapsang experience), but I do sense a faint smokiness now, which manifests as a slightly smoke-tinged light musk with alternating hints of pellucid floral jasmine and bitter, damp-woody Chinese ink. Underneath it all, as others have said, is the Guerlinade I first fell in love with in Habit Rouge; it is an accord that is fundamentally smooth and buoyant, urbane but also authentically friendly. It is actually this continental friendliness that is most old-school about LIDGE; you have to look for it, but it’s there: comforting, reassuring, suave but also maybe a little kind, a welcome surprise beneath what first comes across as a somewhat intellectual, abstracted scent. Finally, something should be said about the dynamism of LIDG. It is subtle stuff, sitting close to the skin almost immediately, where it reads as a gently melodious contrast of tannins, but throughout a decent portion of its longish life also projects a soft, mobile and sensual aura. This discreet projection is where the cacao accord is most active, creating a surprisingly multidimensional impression when compared to the area of skin on the wrist you’ve just pressed your nose into, and eventually settling in the far drydown into an exceedingly well blended compromise of these traits that uncannily retains a lithe dose of a classic fougère's powdery green. If you want to test this one out, get a decent sized sample and go for the full wearing; LIDGE is a second-skin scent, almost eau-de-cologne-like (I have shelved it until warmer weather comes along, as I suspect it will work wonders as a springtime pick-me-up...), but its depth may surprise you. It’s really not IMO a gourmand so much as a lifestyle scent that makes you want to upgrade everything you touch & that touches you, from the kind of shaving soap you use (Proraso White with its green tea note works well) to the tea you drink, to the place you and your loved one go for a kick-ass bowl of ramen chased with Vietnamese iced coffee; the barbershop transformed into an aspirational spa in a bottle.

Our choice of a partner or lover can be largely guided by our sense of smell. It may also depend on our personal tastes and smell culture. Humans do not have a functional organ responsible for receiving pheromones. Consequently, humans do not depend on odor in the same way as animals for close interaction. Men and women can be attracted to a range of odors completely different from each other. It really depends on the preferences of each individual. As an example of group sexual behavior, most men are particularly attracted to the smell of lily of the valley and freshly squeezed orange. Notes related to chocolate and talcum powder do not rank as well amid the masculine gender. Women respond well to notes of vetiver as well other woody and earthy aromas. In addition, it was discovered that fresh jasmine with green nuances stimulates a certain area of the female brain, responsible for the release of sex feromones. It is indisputable that I like a perfume that draws the attention of other people, especially women. However, my main criterion of choice is that it pleases me above all. I don't really have a preferred choice by scent type. I do not doubt that I very much appreciate oriental woody and resinous perfumes. But my entrance gate is wide enough to let a good fougère pass by, tasty Chypre, fresh citrus, but hardly a floral or aquatic scents. Guerlain L'Instant belongs to a group of personal perfumes that I mentally qualify as a pleasure generator for me. It is neither a perfume to draw attention in public, nor a magnet for female attraction. But it transfers an aura of "I feel fine". It gives me well-being and transmits it to the people around me. L'Instant can be an extraordinary therapist for a lot more than just an instant. It simply places you instantly at the center of your life. The fragrance is woody, spicy, and a little sweet. At first glance, the power citrus power is impressive. I notice a lite and resinous aura together with a sweet and satisfying note of anise. As this first wave slowly dissipates, nuances of patchouli with lavender and white flowers emerge. The scent becomes captivating, manly, and elegant. After this agitated evolution, L'Instant enters a calmer phase, revealing dark and greasy cocoa. The woody notes appear in the form of austere cedar and creamy sandalwood, tangled with heavy and complex patchouli. This soft and warm base extends through the dryness, conveying a firm and secure masculinity. L'Instant is not a performance star. Longevity is slightly above average, silage is moderate, and projection is poor. I would probably expect a little more breath from this star fragrance, but its undisputed elegance probably requires this kind of moderation. I have both the oldest square bottle and the newer taller bottle. I can't detect any difference in smell or behavior between the two versions, but I like the shape of the old bottle better. ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ My overall rating: 8.58 / 10.00 Recommendation: This is a very elegant and unique fragrance. It is unexpectedly good value for money with its quality and affordable price. It exudes masculinity, self-confidence, and well-being. Average performance can be treated with a few sprays on clothing. For me, it is a must-own. I also recommend it as a blind purchase. Music: Pink Floyd - "Comfortably Numb"

I would like to review the L'instant Edt with the long listerine bottle. First off, this one starts with a spicy lemon. The spices, of which the anise is the strongest, blend so well with the lemon. It is a very bright, delicious spiced lemon. In the middle the tea note joins the blend and makes it smooth and rich. The tea rather leans towards black tea leaves rather than green tea leaves, which are grassy. This tea note here, however, is rich and dark and balances out the initial brightness. Finally, the chocolate note, detectable ever so slightly from the start, comes to the foreground more and more and finishes off with the patchouli and just a slight touch of sandalwood. The chocolate note never shows any gourmand facets. It is through and through a sophisticated and elegant bittery note. The spicy anise and lemon stay until the end and balance out the rich, deep chocolate, patchouli and tea blend. If applied with 3 pushes it stays considerably strong for around 3 to 4 hours and evolves to a skin scent that stays for another 3 to 4 hours. It is a very discrete scent and it is supposed to be. It is best worn with a smart attire. Smart casual, such as a sport coat, or a full lounge suit would be most suitable. It doesn't suit hoodies, tshirts, sneakers and the like. Because of the harmonious contrasts of brightness and richness, I feel it is superb on a crisp, sunny autumn and winter day. It elevates my mood and makes me sometimes think that these days of the year are the best. Also, it is very suitable for special occasions. It is a perfume that is very dear to my heart and I could never imagine my collection without it. I would even say, this is the perfume I apply the most, because it just fits so many occasions and it feels never out of place. The quality of the ingredients are extraordinary, something you miss with most of today's available designer fragrances. When I smelled this (and other Guerlains) the first time, I realized that I couldn't go back to most designers that I liked before. Guerlain is another level. For those who are considering a vintage bottle from before 2015: The slim bottles with the dark plastic top appear to have two different juice colors. Batch codes from around 2015 have the same juice color as the listerine bottle: bright orange/brown. The fragrance is the same too. I don't detect any difference. Batches from around 2004 have a green juice. The fragrance here differs a bit from the newer batches. The spices are amped up and the bright lemon-tea note is not as predominant. I would prefer the older batches for gloomier, colder weather, whereas I pefer the newer batches for crisp, sunny cold days and for cooler spring and summer days. Thus, there is no better or worse. It merely depends on your taste. I love both of them. I will review the 2004 batch version in the future on its own page.

عطر خوشبویی هست و رایحه گرم و شیرین و کمی تند داره مناسب هوای خنک هست ، روایح غالب در این عطر با حس بویایی من نتهای گل ستاره ای ، پچولی ، کمی مرکبات و گل و در انتها روایح چوبی و ادویه گرم هست و شیرینی کمتری ازش حس میشه از نظر فضای بویایی به عطرهایی نظیر دولچه گابانا د وان ادوپرفیوم و سایکو دلیک جووی شباهتی در حد یادآوری داره اما بوی عطر بطور کلی خاص و منحصربفرد هست پخش بوی متوسط تا حدود 2 ساعت و ماندگاری حدود 5 تا 6 ساعت داره ، عطری که من چند سال پیش گرفتم جعبه و ظرف دراز مستطیل شکل داره اما شرکت جانوین امارات یک کپی نسبتا خوب از مدل شیشه پهن و راه راه 2004 ادوتویلت در غالب ادوپرفیوم تولید کرده که شباهت بویایی خیلی نزدیکی به عطر اوریجینال داره با پخش متوسط و ماندگاری حدود 5 ساعت من گاهی اوقات در هوای خنک از این دو عطر همزمان استفاده میکنم و اثر خوبی برای خودم و اطرافیانم بجا میگذاره . امتیاز شخصی من به ادوتویلت اوریجینال در مجموع 8 از 10 هست که البته در کشور ایران خیلی کمیاب و گرون شده حتی نسخه کپی اماراتی هم داره کمیاب میشه . ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It is a fragrant perfume and has a warm , sweet and slightly spicy scent , suitable for cool weather . The dominant scents with my sense of smell in this perfume are Star Anise note , patchouli , a little citrus and flowers , and at the end , there are warm woody and spicy scents and it feels less sweet . In terms of the olfactory space , it is reminiscent of perfumes such as The One for Men Eau de Parfum and Psychedelique Jovoy Paris , but the overall smell of the perfume is special and unique . The average Sillage about 2 hours and lasts about 5 to 6 hours . The perfume that I bought a few years ago has a long rectangular box and container , but the Johnwin perfumes UAE company has produced a relatively good copy of the wide and striped glass model of 2004 EDT in the form of an EDP , which has a very close olfactory resemblance to the original perfume with an average sillage and a lasting effect of about 5 hours . I sometimes use these two perfumes at the same time in cool weather and it leaves a good impression on myself and those around me . My personal rating for the original eau de toilette is 8 out of 10 , which of course has become very rare and expensive in Iran , and even the UAE copy is becoming rare .

The EDP is in my top 10 and definitely top 5 Winter of all time. This version is very nice too although I do prefer the EDP. This version is lighter as you'd expect but dont mistake that for anything but being a lighter perfume. This still carries the DNA albeit with citrus in the opening and less depth. This version is for warmer weather and one I still absolutely adore. It still performs well, I'm unsure on projection though I'd say decent for first 30mim before withdrawing into a warm bubble. This and the EDP are masterpieces in my eyes. It's probably one of the most simplest complex fragrances I know. That meaning the DNA is easy to understand but they both carry mysterious layers that each wearing you pick a little piece thats different from the last. Take of that what you will. Guerlain is SOLID as a house, quality without huge price gouging. For $150nzd this is a bargain. You can definitely dress this up and wear it casually. It's versatile enough for all but hot weather, although cooler summer evenings this would work. This is a more mature perfume, it's not anywhere close to the current mainstream sweet cr*p. Other than that, I dont know what to say except I love this DNA. I mix my own perfumes and this has a good amount of naturals especially for the price point. To sum this up ill say this, it is a lathered piece of warm Cocoa, sitting on a bed of gorgeous Patchouli with a sprinkle of citrus all surrounded by woody notes. The Anise is this is far more subdued so if thats not your thing try this version before the EDP. This version is also far less 'smokey' (Vetiver) than the EDP, this is fresher in the best way possible. Patchouli (Light), Cocoa, Anise, woods, woods, vanilla, vetiver and tea. Beautiful. I will this: The EDP is one of a handful of perfumes i can smell the bubble for a full day whereas this is just over half of that. EDT solid 9/10 - Losing half a point for performance and another half for being 'mature' if you care about either of those. If you dont then its a solid 10/10 with the EDP being 11/10. I would love to see what they would do with a Parfum version of this! Worth a sniff and 25+