Mitsouko Eau de Parfum

I can't believe there's no Oakmoss in this! Is Guerlain not telling us everything? Then again why would such a reputable House keep such a prominent ingredient from us? Could Vetiver in conjunction with the other ingredients really replace an Oakmoss powerhouse note in such an iconic, over a century-approved Chypre fragrance??? I am at my wits end here. WHY isn't the Oakmoss included here in the note pyramid??? What is going on!??? Oh, here's the answer: Guerlain, for its Les Légendaires collection (which includes the 2021 Mitsouko EDP), often provides a simplified and modernized note list. The Official Guerlain Note List for Mitsouko Eau de Parfum: Note Type Guerlain's Official Description Top: Citrus, Bergamot Heart: Peach, Jasmine, Rose Centifolia (May Rose) Base: Spices, Undergrowth Notes, Vetiver, Patchouli Notice that the official Guerlain description avoids listing "Oakmoss" but uses the term "Undergrowth Notes" and highlights Patchouli to describe the base of the Chypre accord. The classic Chypre family is defined by the accord of Bergamot, Labdanum, and Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri). Due to EU regulations that restrict the use of natural Oakmoss because it can be an allergen, modern formulations cannot contain it above trace levels. To maintain the signature Chypre smell, Guerlain uses approved alternatives, most notably purified/treated Oakmoss extract, Tree Moss (Evernia furfuracea extract), or synthetic molecules (like Veramoss). In fact, the current Guerlain ingredients list for Mitsouko EDP often explicitly contains: Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract This chemical is present to re-create the deep, mossy scent of oakmoss. So, while Fragrantica might list the simplified structure as: Top: Peach, Spices Middle: Rose, Jasmine Base: Patchouli, Vetiver They are omitting "Oakmoss" likely because the natural, highly restricted version is no longer the primary component, but the mossy, earthy character (the core of the Chypre style) is still created by a blend of Tree Moss, Patchouli, and Vetiver. In summary, the scent structure must contain a mossy note to be called a Chypre, but the listed note is often changed to Treemoss, Patchouli, or "Undergrowth Notes" to reflect the modern ingredient composition and adherence to regulations. You're welcome! 😂✌

@Amen! Hallelujah! Oakmoss again... because obviously, there's still so much to be said about it. Truly, what's left to discuss? It’s like the perfume world has said everything under the sun, yet here we are, still circling the same point. All this buildup, and for what? And as for the whole "feminine" fragrance debate, let’s be real, whenever I see men getting so bent out of shape over gender labels, it makes me wonder... True alphas don’t storm perfume forums to whine about a fragrance being labeled feminine and how it makes them feel insecure. They certainly don’t feel the need to reassure everyone that they’re not "woke liberals" by railing against pronouns. Real alpha energy? That’s the confidence to just be—no explanations needed. Take my boyfriend, he's the kind of guy with a voice so deep it could melt steel, naturally muscular without even trying, and people can’t get enough of him. He never feels the urge to rant about scent labels. Instead, he’ll wear a fragrance marketed to women because, surprise surprise, it softens his presence, making the women around him feel more at ease. Funny how that works.

Just a quick comment before anyone starts talking about how "watery," "weak," or "bland" the current reformulation of Mitsouko EDP is—I TOTALLY disagree with that take. I think this is one of the most powerful perfumes I own, with incredible quality in raw materials, complexity, and construction—if I spray it in the morning (4-5 sprays max), I can still feel traces on my skin late at night, even after two showers a day. And one more thing: although Guerlain (and consequently Fragrantica) simplified the notes featured in the olfactory pyramid, the perfume hasn't undergone a drastic reformulation. Mitsouko still has its iconic oakmoss, just as L'Heure Bleue and Aprés L'Ondée still have their old notes. In short: consider the olfactory pyramid of the Mitsouko EDP with the yellow sticker, as it's more complete and true. I'll come back here later to do a proper review of this masterpiece.

of course i had to own a piece of history with this blind buy the opening is very strong, harsh, it tickled my nose for almost an hour. no nausea thankfully, just a warm spicy scent, somewhat waxy and onctuous/oily (think church myrrh). once ot settled, it turned somewhat powdery, elegant, mature, it smells like my grandma s house from back when i was a kid (doubt she ever owned this as she lived under communism most of her life), warm and a little sweet. it s quite long lasting and it develops for hours on end. im much more sattisfied with this legendary, as far as persistence on my skin goes, i seem to eat up l initial and samsara... to wrap it up, it smells like sweet fond memories and nostalgia, but only after an hour - or more

Having worn Mitsouko for decades I was devastated to discover the formula of my last bottle (about 12 years ago) was so changed that it had nothing to do with the Mitsouko I remembered. It met an ignominious end as room spray. (Really!) I haven't bought the original since. It was that disappointing. Even the cheap dupes I resorted to smelled better. Recently I decided to give it one more try. Oh thank goodness! Mitsouko has returned to its mossy and peachy beauty and although I know that it can never be quite the same, it is once again recognisable as the icon it once was. Thank you Guerlain. Thank you. (Now please bring back Chamade in EDP and Parfum!)

I love Mitsouko! I own a 2012 bottle of edp (before the award winning 2013 reform) and a backup of the 2021 Les Legendaires, and I find it beautiful. The post 2013, while essentially the same, changes the opening. The spices are now more pronounced; there’s a slight Opium flash in the first minutes that crackles like fireworks. After that, the peach mellows it out a bit, while the progression is the same Mitsouko of yore. Still beautiful, still big and still Mitsouko! And now, with oak moss as well as tree moss in the ingredients! Now, it really does come close to Jubilation 25, more than ever.

Wow. This perfume is such a wonderful trip away from current scent profiles. It’s like L’heure Bleue in the sense that the blending is so smooth, a smoothness you cant find in modern perfumes. As a Guerlain fan, im embarrassed to not have tried Mitsouko before. It is gorgeous. It’s spices of clove, cardamon, and swirled with a spicy peppery peach. After two hours, the drydown comes and I love the tree moss in here. This has to be Wasser’s work for the reformulation , not Jelk’s. I hate patch but it’s soft here and the gorgeous vetiver in this doesn’t make it overwhelming.

I think this one is beautiful. I will not compare it to vintage ones because I only tried this(and the EDT). This one opens with sparkly and sour lemon citrus, along with the oak moss. After about 15-20 minutes the ripe yet sour peach arrive, there is no sweet in this fragrance. After about an hour some flowers comes out. And after about 3 hours it settles into earthy, Vetiver oak moss. The oak moss is present and felt all along the wearing, in different aspects. And again, like the EDT, it is beautiful

An impressive fragrance, which develops in time. At first application, it didn't say too much. From the second on, what a delight! Definitely a fragrance for cool seasons. Misterious, dark, enchanting. The dry down is exquisite.

There is LOADS of oakmoss in this formulation, and I will die on this hill if anyone says otherwise. I agree wholeheartedly with every aspect of @ordorteca's review just below mine.

The 2025/2026 version is still excellent. It's impressive to me how Guerlain keeps their classics in decent shape given the restrictions.

An intoxicating, well balanced and classy fragrance. All-time favourite.

I can say that if I owned this fragrance 15,20 years ago, I’d find it beautiful! However, when I sprayed this, I almost felt it was slightly dated. That isn’t something I find myself saying often. I still rock my fragrances from the 90s! I would swear there was some oak moss in this, even though it isn’t listed. I have to admit that I’ve been struggling with that note lately. Loved it in the 80s, didn’t mind it in the 90s, but somehow my nose just doesn’t enjoy it today. Perhaps the way the patchouli and vetiver are done gives the sense of oakmoss. It could be that this is a heavier fall/winter fragrance and it’s currently summer so I am not appreciating it as much as I would in the cooler weather. I’m also not currently into a chypre fragrance. It is very pretty but wears a bit more mature than my personal preference. It gives a sense of an older sophisticated woman in the 80s, like the women in the show Dynasty! (For those who remember) It is an amazing creation nonetheless, I can’t believe it was created over 100 years ago! It’s an iconic classic just not something I would wear today.

I think I may struggle with patchouli in certain contexts, and unfortunately this is one of them. I truly wanted to love this 💔. I gave this one several hours on my skin to develop, and while it revealed itself as interesting and complex, it ultimately felt too mature and formal for me. Still want to try the Extrait De Parfum to see how it compares

A historic creation in the art of perfumery, an icon & a signature scent that stands the test of time. It’s an inspiration, the foundation upon which other successful chypre perfumes were created. Think of it as the benchmark for all chypre perfumes. Citrusy, sweet, floral, soury & juicy opening. Two minutes in, it starts to become more creamy with peachy peach & more soury floral notes accentuated by hints of tingly spices & hints of woody vetiver notes. It’s light, sweet & fruity with sourness & bitterness. The heart is creamy full of soury roses & slightly sweet creamy peach & ylang ylang with a jasmine touch. I’m also getting some earthiness & bitterness from oakmoss in the background with spiciness & an amber undertone. It’s elegant, timeless, full of class & the whole mix is giving the impression of vintage aldehydes. The base is mossy, earthy & creamy with less sweet peach & spicy amber notes in addition to a light hint of cinnamon with a slight animalic touch that is adding depth & warmth to every note. It’s on the heavy side yet refreshing & that’s the beauty of it. It feels nostalgic & dreamy. Such a timeless masterpiece by all means created to perfection by the world-class perfumer Jacques Guerlain Performance is very good with good sillage; it stayed on my skin for 9+ hours. IG Sir.Fragrances

I would say dirty, but not in a bad way. A very spicy, aromatic, earthy, mossy scent. Very vintage and barbershop-coded. For me, it’s too heavy to wear, but I appreciate that Guerlain is clearly on a mission to preserve classical approaches to perfumery. The perfumes are updated, but not in a way that follows contemporary trends. Mitsouko has an impressive development. It just keeps unfolding and changing. It’s not just top, heart, and base notes — each layer has its own mini-layers. I definitely wouldn’t call this a floral fragrance, even though there are floral notes. They are only complementary and support the main theme, which is spice. The first application was a bit much for me, but it developed nicely. Very mature, and definitely not a safe blind buy.

People, stop comparing formulations from 30years ago. Some ingredients get banned and their scent profiles can t be recreated. In other cases, some get updates so they feel more contemporary. Personally i find these perfumes absolutely beautiful. All of “les legendaires”. Unlike all these modern houses who make you smell like a cappuccino, or like banana bread or like pho.. these perfumes create links with memories and they allow you to relieve them through and through. And they don’t smell like other creations from 10 other houses. A breath of fresh air in a world of dupes and dupes of other dupes.

No peach, no patchouli, just spices: essentially cloves, nutmeg. I simply cannot get on with this - total waste of money. No it's certainly not weak or bland - it is loud! Best to avoid a blind buy.

Vintage spicy earthy woody scent. Nothing irritating about it . Somehow reminds me of Lush perfumes. Nostalgia of a chic grandma is there .