Rose Barbare

WoW! I stumbled across Rose Barbare today while trying to reach an exhibition and the exhibiotion, even if great, had to wait for a while. It was even more pleasant to see the works surrounded by this memorable scent. I knew it existed before, but it's so difficult to find out of France. I could smell many Guerlains "privè" in a perfume store and the salesman was supportive and understood my crave and love for perfumes and Guerlains most of all. I tried Cruel Gardenia on my right arm and I was in delight, lovely citrus-stinging with a flood of gardenia afterwards, vaguely reminiscent of AdP Magnolia Nobile, but better IMO. Then I tried Rose Barbare on a paper and on my left arm: boom! My face probably said it all because the salesman smiled and said: I love it, too. Here comes the rose! I mean, real rose with no excuse. Why Barbare? I don't know. In my mind this divine smell was an experience for nose and brain. I was offered to spray more on myself and I didn't say no! I went off smelling myself like crazy all the way long to the exhibition, in the middle of the crowd, indifferent to my bliss, but who cares? At that point, I had no imagery from the perfume. Iwas taken by it and that's all. Rose Barbare kept evolving, changing, talking to my chemistry to find the perfect balance between them. It's not static, yet it keeps its theme till the end. It's so feminine and refined, proudly seductive but not sexy in a clichè way at all! Like most Guerlains it shows its nature slowly but steadly. After 7 hours it's still on my skin, not steaming but presently whispering in clouds. Only now I see that it could be kind of "middle east" rose, like the perfume of Arabic princess maybe. All in all the concept is not original or new, rose &patchouli combo and I see how people compare with the lovely Idylle Duet. There have been hundreds of rose&patchouli combos in these last years and I love many of them. Lady Vengeance is on of them. Complimentary notes give interesting differences. To be honest I don't know what fenugreek smells like. I think I smelled the herb years ago, but nothing so soft as I can remember. What makes the difference as usual is the blending mastery behind and I guess raw material. You never smell this level of purity in mainstream fragrances, unless it is Guerlain! Still, Guerlain made quite a few mistakes and cheap choices. Rose Barbare won me in an afternoon. Now the patchouli has taken over a little bit but the rose is still there. I didn't buy it because I couldn't afford spending 175 euro on a 75ml bottle, not now at least and I have a good mini-collection to survive on. Anyway, in spite of its relatively simple concept because after all is yet another rose scent, I think that the price could be deserved in this case. There are so many other expensive fragrances that don't stand up their pricetag.

Rose Barbare, the Intriguing Rose This one needs to be tried out, sampled, tested, and then tested again. This rarely happens to me, but Rose Barbare went from indifference (this rose is ok!) to slight disgust (I don’t know if I like these spices) to disappointment (this doesn’t last long enough) to wonder (what the heck smells so good? Who is wearing a new leather jacket?) to hopeless infatuation (I know you’re not good for me, and I don’t know why, but I must have you...) So that was my trajectory when testing this. It mostly a deep dark rose that has a few metallic flints, with a lot of leathery saffron, spices, woods, herbs and greenery. RB has this saturated, dense feel when you wear it, yet it is never overpowering or loud, and it will reassert itself during the life of the wear. I would like to think that the perfumer meant for that to happen, after all, perfume not only smells a certain way, but it ACTS a certain way, too. The rose is deep and grounded, while the spices/saffron/leather/herbs kind of jump all over the place. The more I wear RB the more intrigued I am by it—every time I wear it I find another facet, something that smells different, a note acts different. I don’t always love scent, but I always find it to be fascinating. Lasting power is phenomenal. This is like meeting someone who you initially have an indifferent attitude towards. Slowly, as you get to know them, indifference turns to ambivalence, which develops into you wanting to find out more. When you do get to know them, you become more and more attracted to them, wanting to understand their quirks and habits, and eventually you just want them. So I guess it just took awhile but I really fell in love with RB...which is not good because she is crazy expensive! But worth it, I’ll be saving up my quarters.

An elegant peppery rose, good for any occasion. Neither trendy nor old-fashioned and, importantly (for me), sugar-free. Timeless really. Reminds me a bit of Ormonde Ta'if, but more natural and less spicy. Some large yellow, orange tinged hybrid tea roses smell like that. Projection is medium-weak. It is a scent first and foremost meant to bring tranquility and poise to you, not to swoon the audience. Unfortunately, on my skin the performance is abysmal, hardly 3 hours, although on paper or clothes two sprays go strong even 24 h later. Perhaps it will do better in cold season. Anyway, no regrets whatsoever, I'll just scent my scarves with it. My full bottle comes in a gorgeous black box that, after taking the bottle-molded padding out, can be repurposed for a myriad of graceful uses. So, all is forgiven. Update: we are in November, and indeed the lasting power of the scent on skin is much better now, I am wearing it quite a lot. Now, in cold weather, I smell a bit of pear in it and the opening suddenly strikes me as that of J'adore original (that I got to smell in 2001; I have no idea what the current version is like). Would I repurchase? No, as at this point my collection is so big that I am unlikely to use anything up in my lifetime, unless I begin to spray the rooms with it. That said, I am eyeing Serge Luten's Rose de Nuit, which is supposed to be a first cousin or something. So, as you can imagine, I like the genre.

I am a rose lover- Rose Barbare showcases Rose in a lovely and refreshing way, I actually want to drink it! The scent opens effervescent and bright. There is something almost yeast-like about this rose that reminds me of the way dry french ciders can smell. The rose is not sweet, it's fizzing softly with an astringent hint of bitterness that you can feel in the back of your mouth, also akin to the aftertaste of very nice craft ciders. (In that regard, this scent can remind me of the champagne-rosyness of the opening of Thé Noir by Le Labo.) I don’t get any fenugreek or honey, maybe a hint of honey when I imagine it as an accent note used to build this rose. The aldehydes come in soft and cool, they linger aside the rose in the opening for a short period of time. In the dry down, I get a small dose of that powdery and dusty synthetic oakmoss (Evernyl) that MFK uses heavily in Baccarat Rouge, mixed with a «clean» patchouli note (Clearwood). Rose barbare is very beautiful in the cold, snowy season. As much as I love this refreshing Rosé Cider of a perfume, I don’t think it is full bottle worthy. On my skin, it has poor longevity and projection and no sillage. It lasts maximum 4 hours on me. Actually, I was really surprised how thin it feels on my skin. Really a shame because I love the scent. Towards the end it is a weak dusty abstract smell. This makes it hard to justify the price point.

I was very eager to try Rose Barbare, because I love rose fragrances, and I've seen this described as a rose in a class of its own - which wasn't hard to imagine, considering the usual quality of these exclusive Guerlains. And of course, it turns out to be true: this is without a doubt one of the best roses I've ever smelled. I especially love the early heart, when the honey has come out. At this stage it's really perfect: rich, velvety, natural honeyed roses - just sweet enough, and it warms up wonderfully on the skin. Exactly the kind of scent to fall head over heels in love with instantly. I'm not as sure yet about the (rather soapy) opening and (rather spicy) drydown, though. I'd probably start appreciating them once I really got to know them, but there wasn't much chance of that with my 0.5 ml sample which only allowed for two wearings, but which was really all I could justify to get at that high price. And that's where we get to the problem: it really is ridiculously expensive, at least double as much as even most other high end niche houses - so although Rose Barbare is certainly lovely, I have to doubt whether it's worth its price. If I ever see anyone splitting it I'll be on it in a second, but otherwise I think I can live without it, although regretfully.

Guerlain doesn’t use much aldehydes and so reviews read like they dismiss this outright; not having the vanillary base as the others in the L’Arte line. But people must understand that this is a blue floral presented with a candied rose and perhaps white honey. Those not familiar with rose chypres will probably not find a liking to this but it’s well made. Barbare to me translates as being outdated and not complying with the trends. Same as with this one, being a blue floral, a reiteration of the most bitter of the perfume genre. A long forgotten recipe of the glorious 70s coupled with pink rose petals which reminds me for a moment of Gucci III. Both boasting of a candied and juicy nuance hazing over the bitter hyacinth, moss and rose base. Since people shun today most green florals thinking them as acerbic, this one is surprisingly with a watery quality. One which I find suitable for the springtime and early fall for its autumnal nuances suit those seasons. And lastly, the aspect to which people mostly complain about: aldehydes. Ah, fantastic as it reminds me of the Chanel quality. I would’ve wished the sudsy opening hinted with turkish delight would have stayed for a while. I wished it was more powerful, like all chyprephiles would wish.

An overlooked gem in the collection of exclusive Guerlains, Rose Barbare deserves more attention. Perhaps the name is the problem, because this rose is not barbaric at all. Instead we have an opulent rose, petals upon petals that are just barely restrained in their exuberance. They never cross over into potpourri territory, but still have a vintage vibe. The addition of honey is a welcome one, as it balances out the sharpness from the aldehydes. As the heart deepens, the blending of the rose and honey becomes very intense. It feels like they become infused, as if you just opened a jar of rose petal infused honey. This stage is quite sweet and I could see how it could be too much for some. But it never gets that way for me. And when the base notes take hold *fans self*. The patchouli gives this a modern twist and takes the edge off the sweetness. The drydown lasts for hours on me and smells divine. There is almost an incense quality to the woody notes, combined with the herbal patchouli and the honey rose, it is a truly magical experience. There are lots of rose patchouli combos, but this one is something special. Kurkdjian really outdid himself on this one.

Rose Barbare... barbarian, barbaric? It’s safe to say this interpretation of rose isn’t demure - probably rather unacquainted to many. This is a fascinating, darker version of what most fragrances present as “rose.” I had to get used to it; it’s a little bit savage - its woody, earthy, and spicy facets giving it an untamed edge. Savage, though, in a sexy, romanticized way - undeniably attractive. What it isn’t is coarse, brutal, or unsophisticated. On the contrary, honey lends a touch of sweetness, and aldehydes lift the composition, keeping it from feeling too heavy or serious. It’s a very ripe rose, but nothing about it feels dusty or musty. The sweetness isn’t as pronounced as in Angélique Noire, yet the honeyed softness and aldehydic brightness temper what could otherwise be a raw, earthy rose, while the spicy-woody undercurrent keeps it from slipping into the expected “powdery vintage” territory. I love Rose Barbare in cooler weather. Then, it radiates a warm, charming glow - intimate once you get to know it, and undeniably one of the more unique creations in Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matière line. It’s a rose that commands rather than pleads.

I don't take a defeat easily, so i decided to spend some more time with Rose Barbare after my initial disappointment. I am pleasantly surprised. After having some time to settle down after shipping, this sure transformed into the most beautiful rose I ever wore, aside from POAL and Oud Satin Mood. Interestingly enough, Rose Barbare dries down to a 90% copy of my favorite perfume on Earth - Serge Lutens De Profundis. It travels from antique, vintage rose to a bit tarter floral medley that is De Profundis, and I have never seen such a big difference between opening and the dry down in a perfume before. So for those who would love to get some idea of how De Profundis smells and they happen to have Rose Barbare, I'd say give it a spray of this and wait some 3-4 hours. I am not saying you will experience De Profundis 100%, but it will come pretty close to, at least, give you an idea. De Profundis is an art in the bottle. I lost my son in a car accident a month ago, and I wear De Profundis only when we go to the cemetery. It's the only fitting perfume I can ever think of :(

Twenty minutes in, and this fragrance brought tears to my eyes it's so beautiful to me. I can't even write a proper review. Why do I cry? Because when I was 13 years old I fell in love. Head over heels. Obviously it didn't last because I was 13, he was 18 and lived hours away from me... At some point during that tragedy of a relationship, I found myself getting some ink of a red rose on my ankle to remind me of him. I remember thinking, "I love him as much as I love Jesus Christ." (Yes, I was 13, but I didn't really get into trouble for getting this tattoo. I think my family and friends were trying to humour me; I was clearly in something way over my head and other than the tattoo and the endless stream of nights I cried myself to sleep I was handling my heartbreak well (good grades, regular babysitter, aced my piano exam, taught Sunday school). They let me have my relatively harmless moment of acting out, I suppose.) The rose depicted on my ankle? I have imagined its scent my whole life since then... and it is Rose Barbare.

Rose Barbare is a real drama and somewhat a shame as it tells the story of a beautiful warm Jacaranda Rose at its peak of fragrant and petal beauty: It is a warm dewy and sticky day, enabling this magnificent flower to fully expose its fragrant and pheromone magic. Then suddenly thick grey clouds appear out of nowhere and release a cold wall of hail the size of golf balls. As they come crushing down they destroy everything in their way, including this beauty of a rose, slaughtered and butchered by the storm. All that is left is a cool glimpse of that warm rose lingering amidst the rapidly cooled off air, that turned this Rose into a 'Barbaric Rose' of great suffering and despair. However, the plant is still alive and it will bloom again, maybe this summer, but definitely next! I feel so sorry for her!! Verdict: A masterpiece of a rose: like your bitch of a boss, Miranda Priestley, that cannot ever fail, even when destroyed. The scent of a survivor. 10/10.

FK is my favorite perfumer, and I legit expected to have my mind blown by Rose Barbare. This was my 30th wedding anniversary present, just arrived yesterday. I picked it especially for this occasion since I adore roses in perfume. I expected something extraordinary from Mr. Kurkdjian, especially considering this specific Guerlain line. However, it's just a like, and not a love for me. This rose is super tame, and definitely not a rose for a Leo. I like rose in POAL, and Oud Satin Mood, well, actually I like all rose perfumes, even tart, knife-blade rose in Delina, but this rose is just tame, and soo well behaved. It reminds me of Nahema, to a degree. And while a collector in me is thrilled to have a bottle of this, considering all the recent changes in the house of Guerlain, this will be a rose I seldom reach for. I love my rose to be wild and loud, and Rose Barbare is just not...that.

One of my blind buys, when they changed bottles, stuff would turn up at the international discounters. It arrived at the same time as a large decant, and I went, holy fuck, what the HELL did I just do with 300$. I’ve been recatalogueing (sp?) my collection, trying to decide what classifies a Guerlain as ‘vintage’. I left it in ‘modern’ and have been wearing it. It’s actually an incredible, abstract, hyper modern turn on rose, a black, sooty thing. Vampires ball. There’s a dead bled out red red rose trampled in the wet soil. Crushed raspberries. A dark sepia patchouli. Are we in a pleasure dome? A one way ticket to Mars? It’s an incredibly daring and indelible perfume, I’ve not smelled anything really like it, they must’ve dialled it back to keep in the Matiere collection. Lol, NOW I’m scrolling reviews 😃. Yep, it has REALLY changed!

Quickly desolving top sharp notes last only seconds to display a sweet rose caressed by honey. This honey is present as an accurate gourmand (perhaps enhanced by the fenugreek). I have never smelled a honey in a perfume that so accurately said honey. Small daggers of it pierce my nose for a short interval before melting into the rose. Now everything is smooth, warm and soft - almost hypnotic. The rose is still front and center. I can see her petals scattered on a rose stuffed duvet which covers an artisan-made wooden bed. The room is decorated with very small sprigs of patchouli. A lamp made of a solid block of honey blended with fenugreek burns in the corner. It releases a constant flow of warmed sweetness. This is a beautiful perfume and absolutely different from many other roses. I like it enough to add it to my want soon list.

This is the fourth sample I've tried over a 2 1/2 year time period, and it never fails to wow me. Barbare is a honeyed, magenta rose that floats atop a diaphanous canopy of precious woods. It smells faintly of amber, but in truth no one wood stands out to me. Rather, the entire composition comes together in a harmonious, rich ensemble that makes me think of the orient, back when the orient was a place of mystery. This is not a strong rose but a refined, well polished one. What spice notes there are wear like whispers, keeping things in the bedroom and out of the kitchen. However, I am now reminded why I keep coming back for a sample (and not a full bottle). Longevity is short, barely 2 hours. Bois d'Armenie from this line last 24 hours on me. And thus, is my 'Art et Material' bottle of choice.

For those of you who have problems with roses going sour on your skin, this is a wonderful choice. It remains sweet and jammy and lush, yet has a nice freshness from the aldehydes. Needs to be sprayed on to be appreciated rather than dabbed to get a full projection. When I first sampled, I used a dab sampler instead of a spray, and I thought it was too subtle. Francis Kurkdjian has a way with roses. His Lumiere Pour Femme under his own perfume brand is sweeter and has more patchouli as a comparison, but they both feature roses that stay sweet and don't turn too citric. And while he adds his signature hint of cedar in Rose Barbare, in this one he doesn't overdo it. A gorgeous rose for Guerlain that doesn't get a lot of attention.

The moment I first experienced this fragrance I knew it was something special; the first sniff brought me back to the classic Chypres of the ‘70s. A spicy rose - not so much oriental as middle eastern, probably the Turkish delight note. Not your typical floral rose, there is an untamed quality to the wild red rose in this composition. I see an earlier reviewer has mentioned longevity and sillage could be better, this seems to drift in and out, you think it’s gone and then suddenly you get a waft of it back. I have worn in three times in the last fortnight, it’s intriguing. If you get a chance to try it, you should because it’s unique.

I find myself describing this scent as “delicious.” By no means is this a gourmand, but there something so delectable about this fragrance. It’s a bed of fresh patchouli leaves with soft and fluffy aldehydes, a young rose, and a drizzle of honey on top. It all makes for such a soft yet elegant cashmere blanket. I find this appropriate for all seasons in a magical way. When I first bought this, I thought it was okay. But I recently pulled this out of my collection for my bedtime fragrance and I found a new love for it. This is not one that’s meant to project, it’s meant to hug you close - comforting and soft.

I was hesitant to purchase Rose Barbare. I wanted a floral scent that was not overly sweet and syrupy. Rose trends toward the mature crowd and can feel a bit matronly. This one has a vintage vibe but the other notes give it a modern feel. The other accords (honey, fenugreek, patchouli, etc.) come through in a way that compliments the rose. They are also what some would say pushes the fragrance more towards the unisex/male side of the spectrum. I appreciate this take on rose and it's one of the few rose scents that I feel I can pull off. I'll be putting it into my spring/summer rotation.

I've tried quite a number of rose perfumes due to them getting along well with my body chemistry, but Rose Barbare gets my crown without any dispute, and is perfect for daily use regardless of mood! It is a very sumptious, elegant rose. Her family lineage is apparent, yet has been refined to fit into modernity, and has a calm, unmistakable character. If placed in a roomful of other roses vying for attention, she could just sit there quietly and I could pick her out without hesitation. Her sillage is understated, lasting power, and wafts insistently, but gently. 10/10