Shalimar Eau de Toilette

In the year 1921 Justin du Pont, a worker at Guerlain, brought to Jacques Guerlain a little bottle of synthetic vanilla. Jaques (third of Guerlain) mixed it with Jicky, added some spices and Shalimar was made. That's what we know, what was told. If I shorten... More accidents than a precise plan. They say. Is that true? We don't know. Good accident then. It's a wonderful perfume and one of my favourite ones. Masterpiece, like many from Guerlaine. I like it so much I can sleep in it. Because it has such majestic Base notes. Guerlain’s Shalimar was heralded as the first “Oriental” perfume, a blend of flowers with essential oils that originated in Asia. I would say that I think this is the first known woody spice fragrance. It's very early, very much like dry soil, mirrored in the zesty citrus top notes. Heady florals flow into a spicy base that is particularly rich in vanilla, incense, and sandalwood. That's how Shalimar is. Earthly love story. It opens with lemon and Bergamotte. In general, I adore Bergamote. I can sniff the peelings forever. In this scent, you can smell it. It's not strong (I would make it stronger) still it's there and it melts, literally melts with vanilla, then floats... This is a perfume that celebrates Bergamote and Vanilla. "Vanillin was first isolated as a relatively pure substance in 1858 by Nicolas-Theodore Gobley, by evaporating a vanilla extract to dryness and recrystallizing the resulting solids. In 1874, German scientists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann found a way to synthesize vanillin from coniferin, a glycoside of isoeugenol found in pine bark (they went on to found a company which now belongs to Symrise and produce it industrially). In 1876, Karl Reimer synthesized vanillin from another source: guaiacol. The laboratories De Laire bought the patent for vanillin and sold the product to Guerlain for their perfumery, first used in Jicky. But, Jicky already contained vanillin along with natural vanilla extract, as well as coumarin and linalool. The secret to the medicinal, smoky yellow vanillin of Jicky, reprised in Shalimar, was the remnants of guiacol and phenols, lending autumnal darkness to what would otherwise be a confectionary sweet cream. This is the reason that Guerlain insisted on ordering the impure grade of vanillin even when the chemical process was improved." Famous perfumer Ernest Beaux (Chanel 5), realized that Shalimar was a great perfume and thus complained: "When I do vanilla I get crème anglaise, when Guerlain does it he gets Shalimar!" Jean-Paul Guerlain has said: “Vanilla is famous as an aphrodisiac and I think that this is true. My grandfather, Jacques Guerlain, taught me how to love vanilla as it adds something wonderfully erotic to a perfume. It turned Shalimar into an evening gown with an outrageously plunging neckline.” Elisabeth Barille said, “‘While examining a sample of vanillin, Jacques Guerlain suddenly poured the entire contents into a nearby bottle of Jicky, just to see what would happen.’ The result: Shalimar.'” Monsieur Guerlain has a different account of Shalimar’s development and composition. He writes that Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s current nose, is “not an advocate” of the Jicky-vanillin theory because he thinks the development was much more complicated. (I also think that btw). According to Monsieur Guerlain (and presumably Monsieur Wasser), the key ingredient was actually ethylvanillin which is relevant because it is “many times stronger and creamier than vanillin.” Because of its strength, Monsieur Guerlain writes that Jacques Guerlain “sequestered himself in the laboratory and worked methodically to try to offset the intense vanilla odour with resinous, powdery and, not least, citrus notes.” As a result, over “thirty per cent of his composition consisted solely of bergamot oil.” (kafkaesque) Oh yes. If you don't loveeee Bergamote or vanilla, don't buy this. Simple. The wife of Raymond Guerlain made this scent visible. Wearing it everywhere. It was not a popular scent at the beginning. And interestingly, the USA is the place where it became popular first. The most prolific of the Guerlain perfumers, Jacques’ rein lasted for an astonishing 65 years. He took over from his uncle Aimé in 1890 and was responsible for creating the ultimate signature of Guerlain, the ‘Guerlianade’: an accord which blends vanilla, bergamot, balsams, tonka bean, iris, rose and jasmine, and has been at the heart of (almost) every fragrance since the early 1920s. Guerlain provided the blogger and Guerlain expert, Monsieur Guerlain, with the note list for the original Shalimar. According to his wonderfully detailed post on the creation and composition of the scent, it has bergamot, lemon, jasmine, rose, orris, opopanax [sweet myrrh], tonka bean, birch tar, patchouli, incense, vetiver, civet, castoreum, vanilla, musks. As a side note, The Perfume Shrine adds benzoin, Peru Balsam, and sandalwood to the note list. Divine. In these trendy times, they would make 5 scents out of components of this one. Guerlaine's most celebrated creations include L’Heure Bleu, Mitsouko and many others, with Shalimar... ending them with leather. If you have a good nose. It's there. Ahh, the artist he was. Parfumery master. The bottle is eternal beauty. It was more sophisticated at the beginning with living silver inside a blue crystal cover imitating a hand fan. Splendid. Raymond Guerlain designed it. Baccarat made it. The original bottle is Extrait. Of course, I find all this important and I think every perfume should be produced by original méthodes and placed into original bottles. And never allowed to be reinvented or to be a remake or even worse, remake of the remake. At least they could refill it for us. Well, at least the work of Elise Darçy the illustrator was not "remarked." They rather give popular faces, one after another, to this or a row of "reinvented" ones. I assume the parfumé industry is a good mirror to this mental society of clones and zombies. Wonder why they don't remake the Pochet & Du Courval colon water Shalimar bottle? With some green deal Eco recycled plastic cover. Fuj or award? Like the bottle that got the award in Paris at the 1925 Decorative Art Exhibition. Why perfumers love Shalimar: When we interview perfumers, we often ask which classic fragrance they wish they’d created or most admire. One of the most frequent answers? Shalimar, of course. Carlos Benaïm told us, ‘My grandmother used to wear Shalimar. It is magnificent, absolutely wonderful, with that mossiness – not just oakmoss, but the other mosses which we’re restricted from using so much these days...’ And Alberto Morillas – another nose often cited as one of the most talented perfumers working today – explained, ‘If you ask me what is the greatest fragrance ever created, I’d say Guerlain Shalimar. Some might imagine it’s old-fashioned but it’s also very modern. There are all sorts of contrasts inside it – but it works so well.’ (parfumesociety) While Mumtaz was alive, Jahan created a series of gardens for her at Lahore, gardens the like of which had never been seen before. He called them the gardens of Shalimar, the Sanskrit word meaning “abode of love.” From every corner of the Earth, the most fragrant and delicate blossoms were brought. Deep pools were built with crystal fountains and terraces paved in marble. The rarest birds were summoned to sing here and lanterns were hung to rival the stars. In the gardens of Shalimar, the lovers were truly happy, and Mumtaz bore fourteen children to her beloved Jahan. That's Shalimar. Feminine. Not feminist. Jacques Guerlain Perfumer 1890-1955 said once: "A good perfume is one whose scent corresponds to an initial dream."

It is hard to write anything new about the bona fide classic that is Shalimar, but it is such an important part of perfume history that I must try. Second only to Chanel No. 5 as the most iconic perfume of all (and that is contentious), Shalimar is the original modern oriental fragrance, and in my opinion, the best. Its groundbreaking use of vanilla paved the way for countless oriental and otherwise vanilla-centric perfumes throughout the twentieth century, and it is still utterly relevant today. It is fittingly housed in a beautiful and truly iconic bottle. I have several vintage miniatures in multiple concentrations, and my EDT dates from the noughties. However, having smelled a recent formulation, Shalimar has not been a victim of reformulation to same extent as other current versions of classic Guerlain scents. Perhaps this is simply due to it not being reliant on now-restricted ingredients (e.g. Mitsouko's oakmoss, Samsara's sandalwood). A thirtysomething French woman I know keeps Shalimar EDT in pride of place on her dressing table, citing it as the ideal concentration for modern use - "light and not too much". As someone who almost exclusively buys EDP where possible, I am inclined to agree - it is a more wearable, less opulent version of the French classic. Given the nature of Shalimar - a vintage-style, rich, spicy vanilla-amber oriental - the EDT performance is still good. However, being a Shalimar fan, I cherish my EDP and parfum concentrations too. Shalimar opens with fresh, juicy citrus notes, perfectly preserved. Tart bergamot and bright lemon give Shalimar its bright opening, before spicy notes and powdery florals creep in. Clean, heady jasmine and powdery rose form the heart, with some powdery iris rounding out the bouquet after a little while. The early presence of vanilla rounds out Shalimar at this stage, forming the famed Guerlinade accord, completed by the emergence of the softly spicy tonka bean note after a little while. Shalimar's use of vanilla is second to none - smooth, rich, giving just the right amount of sweetness, and tying everything together perfectly (standing in stark contrast to modern gourmands that rely heavily on sugary vanillin). The drydown is spicy-sweet and amber-like, but lighter and less ambery than in stronger concentrations, with the smooth vanilla taking centre stage. Sillage and longevity are moderate. I tend to reach for Shalimar in autumn/winter, being a warm, ambery scent. A slightly muted version of a timeless classic without compromising on composition, Shalimar EDT is ideal for daytime use, and is perhaps more palatable for modern tastes. 5/5.

I recently treated myself to a vintage version of Shalimar EdT - a 1978 bottle in the black-and-white zigzag box. Most of my collection consists of modern editions, with a few older bottles I acquired or received as gifts when they were new. But holding this one in my hands was different - it felt like holding a piece of history. After years of reading about vintage perfumes, their bottles, and the subtle changes they underwent over the decades, it was thrilling to finally turn theory into a tangible experience. I was slightly apprehensive about the authenticity of my find, but after carefully checking all the details and experiencing it firsthand, I’m confident it is genuine. The box is flawless, the liquid has retained its clarity, and the bottle and cap are free of scratches or damage. This perfume likely spent decades lying safely in someone’s orderly drawer, untouched. A recent Fragrantica article (https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Shalimar-Guerlain-A-100-Year-Old-Legend-Part-2-23930.html#cc326075) describes the 70s Shalimar, with the author sharing impressions that closely match mine. The main difference for me is that the bergamot isn’t particularly pronounced - there’s citrus, yes, but it comes across as subtle and demure. Naturally, every bottle will vary after nearly 50 years. What captivated me most is the perfume itself. The opening and settling phase reveal a distinct buttery note reminiscent of Millésime Tonka, though without its spiciness. Vanilla and Tonka form a delicate, harmonious synergy - rich and delicious without tipping into gourmand territory. An airy benzoine note floats above, with smoke kept gently in check, unlike some modern versions where it dominates. Orris lends a soft, powdery roundness, never suffocating, just perfectly balanced. The overall effect is uplifting and transparent - light yet undeniably luxurious. It’s ideal for those who find the EdP too heavy. While Shalimar retains its signature sweetness, it is never cloying; Tonka, vanilla, and even the incense create the timeless stage that makes Shalimar, well, Shalimar. Holding this perfume, I felt a connection across time - a fragment of 1978 preserved in pale golden liquid within its glass flacon. The best kind of magic potion, if you ask me!

The other day I was celebrating my birthday with a few of my best friends at a wine bar. I was wearing Shalimar as a contrast to my clothing that was all douce corals that day. On my way home I was stopped twice and asked what I was wearing. First time by an older gentleman, wearing a tailored suit and a butterfly adorned with sequins. I complimented his outfit (as he did mine) and he then asked me what perfume I was wearing, since he had smelled it as I sat next to him on the train. I told him it was Shalimar and he lightened up and said that he did think it was familar. His oldest sister, who was long gone, had been wearing Shalimar all her adult life. He loved it and always wanted to buy it for his wife, but eventually didn’t because it was his sister’s signature. Now the wife had passed away too and he regretted not having bought it for her anyways. I asked him if there wasn’t someone else significant, he could perhaps gift it to and once again he lightened up. He would buy it for his daughter, who he knew loved perfumes as well. I told him it sounded like an amazing idea, somehow honouring all three of them - his sister, his wife and his daughter. He thanked me and went in to the evening with a huge smile on his face. Just 15 minutes later a young all denim-clad girl queing right behind me at the grocery store wanted to know what was that fab perfume I was wearing. I told her it was Shalimar and she asked where to buy it. Her birthday was coming up too, so she would put it on her wish list. I wasn’t surprised that the older gentleman both knew and loved it, but a little that the young girl wanted it too. But my faith was restored after a fantastic afternoon with some of my besties and I promised myself to wear my Shalimars more often as they are indeed still stunning.

SHALIMAR EDT (VINTAGE) formula 80s. As I have said on other occasions, Shalimar has a wonderful structure, it is not for nothing that it is an icon of perfumery. This old school beauty smells absolutely beautiful in my opinion. It looks similar to the Edp but of course it differs a lot from the current versions. Here at Shalimar Edt (vintage) we find a lot of wealth in terms of quality of ingredients, this one is denser, more complex, powerful and of great intensity. Also, as expected, the Guerlinade structure is very present. It opens with a slightly fresh, citric and floral smell (citrus, lemon, bergamot, tangerine) but these chords don't scream loudly, they are there, they are noticeable but in a very subtle way. Fusing from the start with the heavier notes. Guerlain's sumptuous vanilla predominates. This vanilla is not too sweet, but rather resinous, balsamic and even somewhat liqueur. (Tonka bean, benjui, opoponax) a vanilla wrapped in a very powdery cloud (Iris) and incensed with animalic notes. (castoreum) The latter, bringing intensity, richness, warmth and sensuality to the fragrance with well-defined leather nuances, all beautifully balanced. Jasmine, rose together with iris absolute (dusty with woody accents) are the opulence in the majestic heart of this Oriental-floral. Little by little it makes way for a background with warm amber accords, submerged in soft incense smoke. Imparting refinement and depth to the composition. An absolutely captivating and elegant perfume. A composition in perfect symphony and beautifully presented. Great masterpiece by Jacques Guerlain. The substantivity on my skin reaches 8/9 hours, although the next day I still perceive the warm and amber smell on my arm. Diffusion is moderate to mild.