Guerlain
Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21

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Acordes dominantes
- baunilha
- âmbar
- talcado
- doce
- especiado quente
- balsâmico
Pirâmide olfativa
Saída
O primeiro impacto, nos primeiros 15 minutos.
Coração
A personalidade do perfume, por algumas horas.
Não informado pela comunidade ainda.
Fundo
O rastro que fica na pele até o fim do dia.
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Como ele se comporta
Fixação, projeção e ocasião — votos da comunidade internacional somados aos daqui.
Gênero
72 votos
Quando usar
- Inverno: 58 votos
- Primavera: 34 votos
- Verão: 16 votos
- Outono: 56 votos
- Dia: 38 votos
- Noite: 51 votos
Onde encontrar
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Impressões da comunidade internacional
Traduções chegam aos poucos — textos em inglês por enquanto.
- em inglês
Today's review takes me to Guerlain with Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21, and admittedly, this is one I've approached with equal parts excitement and financial apprehension. Within the fragrance community, Vanille Planifolia has developed an almost mythical reputation, frequently discussed not simply as an excellent vanilla fragrance, but as one of the finest expressions of vanilla that money can buy. Unfortunately, Guerlain appears to have taken that last part quite literally. At $660 for just 50ml, this is an extraordinarily expensive fragrance even by luxury niche standards, which puts me in the unusual position of almost hoping I don't fall completely in love with it. A full bottle purchase at that price would certainly have some unpleasant implications for my bank account. Humor aside, that combination of reputation and price creates an enormous set of expectations. The composition itself is surprisingly focused, centering vanilla alongside spices, amber, opoponax, and musk, suggesting that rather than transforming vanilla into something else entirely, Guerlain intends to explore the material itself and surround it with enough warmth, resin, spice, and texture to reveal its full complexity. Vanilla is one of the most ubiquitous notes in perfumery, appearing everywhere from inexpensive designer releases to some of the most prestigious fragrances in the world, so charging this much for a composition built around it requires something truly exceptional. At $660, smelling good simply isn't enough. Even smelling great may not be enough, honestly. Vanille Planifolia needs to demonstrate exactly why its interpretation of one of perfumery's most familiar materials deserves to be spoken about as a benchmark for the genre. I'm simultaneously excited and slightly afraid to find out whether it does, because there are really two possible outcomes here: either the reputation proves exaggerated and my wallet survives, or Vanille Planifolia lives up to the hype and creates a considerably more expensive problem. Let's find out. Opening: The opening is sweet, spicy, and resinous. The primary notes I get are vanilla, spices, amber, and opoponax, with the vanilla and spices leading the composition. True to the fragrance's name, the vanilla immediately commands attention with a rich, creamy sweetness that smells remarkably natural, calling to mind genuine vanilla bean rather than frosting, baked goods, or the synthetic vanilla accords that have become so common in modern perfumery. Supporting the vanilla is a warm blend of spices that reminds me primarily of cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. Rather than standing apart individually, they work together to introduce warmth and texture while preventing the fragrance from becoming overly soft or one dimensional. Closely behind them, the amber wraps everything in a smooth, glowing warmth, providing a resinous sweetness that expands the richness of the vanilla without ever overshadowing it. Lastly, the opoponax introduces a darker balsamic resin with subtle incense like smokiness and gentle honeyed nuances, hinting at the richer direction the fragrance will eventually take. Beneath everything sits a soft musk, adding a clean, skin like sensuality and just a touch of powderiness that quietly ties the entire composition together. The result is an opening that feels opulent and effortlessly luxurious, allowing every ingredient to contribute while never losing sight of the true centerpiece: one of the finest vanilla accords I have ever experienced. Dry Down: The dry down remains sweet, resinous, and spicy. The primary notes I continue to detect are vanilla, opoponax, amber, and spices, with the vanilla and opoponax now leading the composition. The vanilla has become even richer as the fragrance settles into the skin, developing an almost velvety texture while retaining the same incredibly natural vanilla bean quality that immediately impressed me in the opening. Alongside it, the opoponax has risen considerably, contributing a darker balsamic sweetness accompanied by a more noticeable incense like smokiness that adds depth without ever becoming overwhelming. The amber continues to provide its signature golden warmth beneath everything, helping bridge the creamy vanilla and darker resins into one seamless composition, while the spices retreat into the background and become more of a gentle aromatic blanket than a distinct accord. The musk also remains quietly present, maintaining that clean, powdery softness that gives the fragrance much of its sensual character. Rather than transforming dramatically, Vanille Planifolia simply becomes deeper, smoother, and more enveloping as it dries down, allowing the extraordinary quality of its ingredients to speak for themselves. The result is a dry down that feels less like a departure from the opening and more like a richer continuation of the same luxurious experience. Performance: The projection within the first hour is exceptionally strong, comfortably reaching well beyond six feet without ever feeling abrasive or harsh. Sillage matches that performance with a thick, luxurious scent trail that remains easily noticeable to those around you. After approximately four hours, there was virtually no measurable decline in either category, with the fragrance continuing to project and leave a scent trail just as confidently as it had immediately after application. Around the eight to nine hour mark, projection had only begun to draw in slightly, still reaching roughly six feet while maintaining a clearly noticeable scent trail. Even after ten to eleven hours, the fragrance continued projecting three to four feet with a noticeable scent trail before finally becoming a skin scent well beyond the twelve hour mark. Overall, the performance is exactly what I would expect from am extrait fragrance of this caliber. At nearly seven hundred dollars, exceptional longevity and projection should be a given, and thankfully Vanille Planifolia delivers technical performance every bit as impressive as the fragrance itself. When to Wear: Vanille Planifolia is unmistakably a fall and winter fragrance that is best suited for evening wear. Its composition embodies warm, inviting sensuality, built around creamy vanilla, glowing amber, dark balsamic resins, aromatic spices, and soft musk, making it an exceptional choice for intimate special occasions such as date nights and anniversaries. The richness of the vanilla and opoponax feels particularly natural during cold evenings, when the fragrance can fully open up without becoming overly dense or cloying. It could also function beautifully as a cozy casual fragrance for quiet nights at home, assuming your budget permits casually spraying something that costs nearly seven hundred dollars. Despite its undeniable luxury, I would not choose Vanille Planifolia for formal wear. Its character feels too intimate, seductive, and magnetic for settings where I would prefer something more reserved and traditionally elegant. It is also entirely unsuitable for an office environment, where its immense projection, persistent scent trail, and sensual profile would be overwhelming and inappropriate. This is a fragrance designed for closeness and personal connection rather than professional or ceremonial restraint. Blind Buy: From a financial perspective alone, Vanille Planifolia is about as far from a safe blind buy as a fragrance can possibly be. Spending nearly seven hundred dollars on a fragrance without first wearing it on skin is difficult to justify regardless of how highly regarded it may be. Interestingly, the fragrance itself is actually quite approachable. Unlike many luxury fragrances that chase uniqueness through challenging or experimental accords, Vanille Planifolia remains steadfastly committed to presenting vanilla in its purest and most luxurious form, supported by warm resins, soft spices, and musk that are all widely appealing. Anyone who already enjoys vanilla fragrances will likely find very little here to dislike. The question isn't whether the fragrance is wearable. It's whether any fragrance, no matter how exceptional, can justify this level of financial commitment. For that reason alone, sampling on skin before purchasing is absolutely essential. Final Verdict: Having now worn what many consider to be the greatest vanilla fragrance ever created, I can confidently say that Vanille Planifolia deserves every bit of the praise it has received over the years. After experiencing vanilla interpreted in countless different ways throughout my journey of over 600 fragrances, this stands as one of the purest, highest quality, and most luxurious expressions of the note I have ever encountered. Even more impressive is that Guerlain never tries to reinvent vanilla or hide it behind novelty. Instead, the house simply presents the finest vanilla it possibly can, allowing amber, spices, opoponax, and musk to elevate the composition without ever stealing the spotlight. The craftsmanship is immediately apparent from the first spray, the blending is virtually flawless, and the technical performance is exactly what one would expect for an extrait at this level. The only real hurdle is the price. Nearly seven hundred dollars for fifty milliliters is an extraordinary amount of money, even within luxury perfumery, and it pushes Vanille Planifolia firmly into grail territory. Even as someone who already owns several fragrances in the five hundred dollar range, this is a potential purchase that gives me pause. However, vanilla has always been one of my favorite notes in perfumery, and after finally experiencing what I genuinely believe could be its pinnacle, I already know where I stand. This isn't a fragrance I'll buy on impulse or because I happen to stumble across a good deal. It's a bottle I'll save for, think about, and eventually add to my collection because it represents the very best version of one of my favorite notes that I have ever smelled. For me, that's exactly what a grail fragrance should be. Scent: 9/10 Longevity: 10/10 Sillage: 10/10 Versatility: Average Compliment Factor: Gender: Unisex Value: Absurdly overpriced
- em inglês
Glad I didn't buy a full bottle of this... This smells like many spicy vanillas that I already have. (EX: 1899 Hemingway, Lalique Le Parfum, Vetiver-Golden Vanilla, Whispers in the Library) Granted, it does have Guerlains wonderful vanilla...but still...this isn't any more special than my other vanillas. And with how intimate this frag appears to persist on being, no one will smell it on me outside of a hug. I'll wear this to bed or indoors and stick to "SDV" for going out of the house... (UPDATE) I have to admit that I was COMPLETELY wrong about this fragrance...goodness. I decided to give it a full wear today and put on about 15 sprays thinking that it was so weak and understated. What do I have to lose...it's such an intimate frag...not like my other loud vanillas....right? *Big time WRONG* First indication was that the wife came into my work-room from the bedroom and mentioned that what I was wearing smelled good...REALLY good. Now....my bedroom and work-room are at least 15 feet from each other. I hadn't left the work-room at all and for her to be able to smell me from the bedroom means that this fragrance is MUCH more powerful than I thought!! The other thing is that she is very unimpressed with most of my fragrances...reacting with an "Its OK" for something making me jump for joy. So I got dressed and headed to work. Nothing while picking up breakfast, and the ladies typically comment on my appearance and scent. However, when i got to work...a few minutes after arrival one of my coworkers/unit-mates came into my office and asked what I wore today because it smelled SO GOOD! I told her what it was and she gave me two thumbs up and praised it's scent! So....apparently I'm the only one that can't smell this fragrance very well...for some odd reason. That sucks...I would like to have a grand experience with this fragrance...but i just keep going nose-blind for some reason. Not like with all of my other Vanillas.... I'm not understanding this... 23JUL25 UPDATE: Another coworker in my mostly empty section of the building comes down the hallway, I can hear heels on the hallway floor...stopping at every door, she comes into my lab and says "I had to find out where that amazing smell was coming from!!! DM...WHAT IS THAT!!!???!?!?!" So I explained this fragrance to her and sprayed a shot onto her wrist...her eyes rolled up into her head when she smelled it on herself. She rubbed her wrists together and rubbed them on each side of her neck thanking me profusely for gifting her a spray. I told her how much it cost for the decant and she nearly screamed! Then when I told her what a full bottle costs she actually did scream "GET OUT!!"....lol. I keep getting positive vibes from this frag and it's changed since I first picked it up. Not so much spicy, but really strong and natural-smelling vanilla with a balsamic kick that almost feels like a light suede in the far background now...really amazing. It appears I'll be saving up for a full bottle... 27JUL25: More comments and compliments today heading in to work. This is crazy... This is turning out to be my most complimented fragrance of all time. Yep....definitely have to get a full bottle. 😓
- em inglês
I think you will be surprised at this review. Because of how expensive VP21 really is, I have held it to a much higher standard than I would with a fragrance that is around $300. Think about that. $300 is exceptional. That is around exclusive High end luxury Brands and independent niche houses. This fragrance blows them all out of the water at a whopping $695. For a 50 mL! Let us compare properly everybody. It should be 100 mL because everything else is currently being sold 100 ml. That is $1390. Guidance extract at 100 mL is around $700 if you include tax etc. So I absolutely have the right to critique at a higher standard because they are asking you to pay $600 more. More than any other fragrance house I have seen. I am not the oracle by any means, but I do spend every day of my life in the fragrance industry. Although this is a very classy vanilla, there is severe lack of personality. It's almost forgetful you have it on after an hour or so. For how outrageous this price is, I at least want something people can remember me by. I understand elegance and I understand class. But I also understand underperformance and I regretfully have to say that is what is happening here. Yes, you do have to adhere to Guerlain and the identity that comes along with it as the guerlainaide. Did I spell it right? Don't forget I am using my voice control, so it is quite a pain in the ass having to spell out every letter in the word. But I think it's important I say all of this because it is remarkable how overpriced this particular collection is. I was only able to purchase a small sample from a third-party and I regret that considerably. I am unimpressed by Guerlain and I think their products are not worth the money. I can recommend numerous other houses. If you are in your 30s or are younger, this house is not for you. That's how the cookie crumbles for me.
- em inglês
Absolutely gorgeous vanilla! When I first tried it, it sort of smelled like your wealthy neighborhood grandma would whenever she'd put her winter coat on. Expensive, no doubt, but it'd make my nose scrunch. But then, oh, that drydown... you guys, it's absolutely MAGICAL. 100% unisex, with a longevity that more than makes up for it's price. 550 euros, come on... It's a warm, ambery, gourmand vanilla that is mainly linear (without taking the stronger opening into account). After 30 minutes or so, it's linear and you will LOVE this. On clothes, it's ETERNAL. Just now I opened my wardrobe to grab a shirt I used pretty much a month ago and it STILL smelled of vanilla when I put it on... It's not beast mode, you won't fill a room with this fragrance, but every time you stop at a crossroad you will smell it, and you leave this nice gentle non-invasive trail that people will stop to sniff and admire. I get compliments from family members and friends, even those who always have something negative to say about your fragrance choice, and even they love it. It's pricey, no doubt, but splurge on this, guys. Winter, cold day (more like evening vibes). Definitely found my signature scent!
- em inglês
Gorgeous vanilla amber. Spicy, slightly sweet vanilla with hints shiny dark chocolate that really good vanilla has. Faintly powdery from the opoponax and the amber, but I haven't gotten any tobacco as others have. Everything is in proportion like a great Guerlain vanilla should be. Not a huge sillage, but it's eternal in longevity. People will ask what your perfume is, no one will say "I smell cookies" in the elevator. It's not that kind of vanilla. But the thing is: while I love it, I feel stupid for spending $500 on it. I bought it in Europe - but if you buy in the States, you'll spend $650 plus tax. For 50 ml. I won't go hungry, my kids won't go without shoes, my husband didn't care that I spent that much and I'm very aware of my privilege - but.......who the hell does LVMH think they are? This is worth $150-200 tops and don't spout "natural, high quality ingredients" to me. Just say influencers and I'll nod my head. Love the scent, despise the fomo. Not preaching just trying to figure out where and when I was led off the path and started believing "I'm worth it".
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