Vetiver Extreme

(This review is for the current bottle w. green cap) ****+ I think it’s both useful and interesting to read the progress of these long threads of reviews on Fragrantica to see how a particular fragrance is perceived over time, with changes to consumer sensibilities, trends in taste and perception of a brand. With that in mind I’ll start by saying with respect that I think Guerlain Vetiver Extreme has been misunderstood...At first by early Guerlain Vetiver fans who balked at the venerable brand’s adoption of the term ‘extreme’ (how flanker-ish!) and then by people who assumed that 'extreme' implied a beastly addition to duration or projection and were disappointed to find it mostly on par with the original (I actually find it just a hair stronger...) I reckon that Guerlain Vetiver Extreme is best understood as an adventurous alternative iteration of what the original GV did so well: scaffold an 'impression of vetiver' around the vetiver note itself, using herbs and citrus to extend its green tanginess, nutmeg and tobacco to warm its smokiness, and resins and woods to sweeten and ground its rooty oiliness... The 'Extreme' flanker does all of this but focuses on advertising different facets: artemisia opens the composition with a bitter/bracing herbal freshness that rings in the medicinal aspect of the root; I am reminded of the use of artemisia in Yatagan, which, for the blink of an eye, hovers somewhere between bright herbal toothpaste and one of those bitter drinks one only takes in Italy in the summertime... If you follow that comparison, you'll find it easy to imagine how this opening pairs well with the tarragon-licorice accord adds an earthen sweetness to the driftwood-salty/ashy facet of the vetiver note. The effect is both dry and 'sweetened' rather than 'sweet', an impression supported by a wisp of frankincense that deepens vetiver's smokey facet, and the redoubtable tonka bean with its ‘hay’ flavour; underneath it all, of course, is the reliable 'Guerlinade' base of smooth, flower-polished vanillic woods and musks, very recognizably recalling both the bases of the classic Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge. Cedarwood sweetens this a little in a way that recalls the carrot-like, watery sweetness found in some lighter vetivers like Tom Ford's, for instance. The overall outcome is a very coherent but offbeat approach to the fresh and medicinal aspects of the vetiver root...I particularly love the way that the artemisia and nutmeg play off of one another. Nothing here is stark or isolated, and the transition from the rich initial projection to the gently soapy-grassy drydown is like a symphony string session in which musicians are gradually removed until you’re left with a competent quartet playing out the main motive. Aspects of the staging of vetiver that I enjoy in other modern compositions (the humid-summer-raspiness that practically tickles in your throat in Malle’s Vetiver Extraordinaire, the slightly candied accent to be found in Tom Ford’s iris-tinged Grey Vetiver, the peppery, petrichor-like ‘lake smell’ of Lalique’s Encre Noire, or the sweetening addition of chamfered, 'oriental', resins in Dior's Eau Sauvage Parfum) are all here to some degree, plus an increased oily-smokiness that I find both comforting and addictive; the vetiver still smells fresh and bracing but seems a touch petrochemically paternal as well. I am almost reminded of the 'petroleum' accord in Fahrenheit, again set against an impression of dry summer grass made humid by evening. Different aspects of the composition 'waft' in the sillage, producing a multidimensional impression with appealingly rich contrasts, all the while remaining definitively 'green' in character... It's still Jean-Paul Guerlain's gentlemanly conceit of a gardener walking the grounds with tobacco in his pocket, but at the long stretch of an afternoon instead of first thing in the morning: diurnal but settled in, distinctive but restrained, complex but mellow. Full disclosure: I have infinite respect for the original Guerlain Vetiver, but, despite having owned decants of vintages of the 70’s, 90’s and current versions, I have never bought a full bottle, mostly because, on my skin anyway, a sour astringency (a tinny green sharpness), as emphasized by the acidity of citrus and tobacco, emerged in the drydown, ultimately setting my teeth on edge. I can sense this same sharpness in the Extreme version, but it has been bevelled, dusted, and sweetened by other ingredients that make the whole more lived-in and comfortable to wear. I really do not miss the tobacco, which on me could get a bit flat, and I appreciate the way the overall 'aromatic' character of this spicy scent profile meshes with the smell of my skin. This is a great fragrance if, like me, you love the idea of vetiver but cannot always make it work in its sharper, starker, or more citrus-heavy incarnations. While I can see how earlier reviewers (i.e. Luca Turin) found it dissonant, I would argue that some of the modern vetivers I mentioned above have changed the way we think about using this material... I personally find my current bottle of GVE to be a masterclass in characterful blending. It's functional workwear but also great, I suspect, with a white t-shirt on a warm spring morning. Projection is great for the first few hours, then snug but solid through the drydown; longevity is quite good at a trustworthy 7-10 hours, and a little sprayed onto your clothing prolongs the effect nicely but without bombast. Anyway, this is a grower for me, and something I especially appreciate for having one foot firmly in the old school while being both different and independently appealing to justify its existence... If, like me, you find some vetivers either a bit sharp or a bit boring, do give this one a try; fans of the house's roots (no pun intended) will not be disappointed.

A lot has been said on this interpretation of vetiver by Guerlain. This is a very similar but slightly toned-down version of the original with a green twist (tarragon) in the opening, and nutmeg in the drydown. A hint of incense appears in the late drydown. Overall, nutmeg and incense give an impression of tobacco, like in the original. This is a more earthy, dusty, damp take on vetiver compared to the original, slightly more complex, and less citrusy, but still, very close. I can spot the same exact "wet woody notes" as those in John Varvatos Oud. (Indeed, I think that there's no oud in Varvatos, but that's not the focus here) I wouldn't say that V Extreme is a younger take compared to the original. It's different, and like the original, it targets confident men (30+). Despite what previous comments stated, I don't think this can be pulled out in hot summer days because the nutmeg and base woody notes make Extreme more appropriate for Spring and Fall days, like the original. I unfortunately have to confirm a drawback: it projects less than the original, despite its name. Overall happy with my purchase. Excellent vetiver. Should I choose just one? The original, because it's cleaner and rounder. But this slightly sharper and damp interpretation is a must for all the vetiver fans but most of people may find redundant to own both, since they are pretty close one from the other. Me, I love it and will alternate both during Spring and Fall. Ps: I've read that Turin heavily criticized this fragrance. While it was already known that he is a poor scientist (the scientific community destroyed his supposedly scientific results, the reason why he shifted career), it is now also confirmed that he has also poor olfactory abilities and tastes.

I really love this Vetiver! It is my first! I sniffed it some months ago and I could not forget the smell! It reminder me of a nice cedar perfume oil I had when I was younger and used to where at party's. I lost this oil some years ago and never managed to find a replacement. This perfume reminds me of it! I can sense the cedar somewhere in the back the drydown. But also very much there in the opening! This perfume is growing on me. At first I thought it to be sweet, and fresh at the same time. But also green and mysterious. I love the opening, diliciously sweet to my nose. I'm a bit thorn on the drydown. It tends to differ alot, I think it depends on what I've been eating before! The first times I got soupy fresh citrusy drydown, then the other day I realy got the frankincense smokey drydown. I was quite used to that when a few day's ago al I could smell was the vetiver in a strong way. Today 5 ours after initial spray, I get nutmegg to the max! Very odd! I must say I'm smelling lot's of perfumes lately! It has become a new hobby of mine. Quit smoking 3 weeks ago so maybe my nose is still setteling. This one has good longevety and sillage is good for first 2 to 3 ours, then starts to get more close to the skin. When the wheater is a bit more hot I smell this on me all day, and I enjoy it alot! When it is colder it last somewhat shorter. Regular Guerlain vetiver I've smelled only once on my arm and was a bit full, strong for me, maybe it was the tabbaco. After using alot of the extreme I smelled the origin again on a paper and I loved it alot to. Can't wait to have them both. I think they are both great! For me cedar, vetiver, nutmeg, frankincense, sweet (locorice) come out most!

Good comments here from several people - I happen to love this bottle of fragrance! I am a vetiver lover and this fragrance is Guerlain's glorious, deep green (and slightly rooty) vetiver "backbone" plus the artistic use of great aromatic notes blended into a harmonious composition. The notes, subtleties, nuances and accords are all there, but vetiver is constant. I love the tarragon, incense and cedar that warms the drydown versus the tobacco accord of the regular bottling. Only because this is a Guerlain, could this be seen as an "extreme" bottling, but in reality, it is an extremely well-crafted fragrance that puts vetiver on a pedestal and surrounds it with great notes that vetiver compliments and vice versa. Guerlain's flankers from the 2000 formulation came later. I have all of them and respect each for what they offer. However, there is a reason why the Extreme bottle stayed and both Sport and Eau Glacee (Frozen) are now discontinued (sales!). This fantastic composition really "adds more" versus "taking out" notes and ingredients from the flagship. You can read my reviews on both Vetiver Sport and Eau Glacee/Frozen, but this is the shining star of the flankers and an outstanding bottle of fragrance that is incredibly well-made. Very thoughtful and rather daring by the house of Guerlain, who still creates THE benchmark of the majestic root. If you want to read a critic's book and fall in line, that is your decision. But, I am blessed to have my own nose, olfactory senses and opinion - and mine is pure admiration and enjoyment of Vetiver Extreme! Rating 9+/10! Kudos to the Guerlain house - this is wonderful! Highly recommended.

I saw on Youtube K. saying that Guerlain Vetiver was for a 70, 80, 90 yo, and remembered that the experts say that there are only two kinds of fragrances: the good scents and the bad ones. If we shouldn't say that a scent is for women or men, how can one say it is for the very oldies?Is it not fashionable? What is fashion anyway? You are what you smell, smell well? I agree that there are scents with a juvenal, youth aura that suits, of course, young people. Also I agree that thare are time and place for everything under the Sun. But I cannot agree that a scent is good but only if you are over the rainbow and beoynd together with the mothballs. Guerlain Vetiver Extreme is my frst vetiver, although vetiver is in almost everything under that same Sun. And for me it smells great, really wonderful. Walking to work I got winfss of it and I couldn't belelive it was me, my vetiver giving me that very satisfying smell that just makes one feel good with himself and the world, it was almost like the first ... , for me and I am 50+. I suppose K. could say that it is because I am almost getting there. A young profesional man can pull GVE off? Of couse he can, if he wants to be taken seriously. But that is only one of his choices and there are plenty of them. I think I don't need to say anything about notes for other serious reviewers like Ericrico have done better than I ever could. Just a final thought I wear a scent for myselfself firstly and try not to offend the ones aroud me. As Lanier says, five golden stars, with honor.