Vetiver (Vintage Edition)

My very first experience with Guerlain's Vetiver, some years ago, was the current parfum flanker by Delphine Jelk. For a perfume called the "reference vetiver" by Luca Turin, the modern parfum concentration certainly let me down; I was not impressed. I thought for a while that it was just me, and I retried it, and kept reading about it, and kept hearing how legendary Guerlain's Vetiver is and I just couldn't understand it. It was too thick and cloying, it felt lifeless, and carried way too much tonka bean - in fact, it should've been called Expired Vetiver & Baking Tonka. I told myself that I needed to go to the source, that I needed to try the original Vetiver in its original concentration and original formula as envisioned and executed by Jean Paul Guerlain. I found a late 80s EdT that was (and still is) in great condition, so today I am taking the plunge and giving Guerlain Vetiver another try... and now I finally get it. In this formulation and concentration "reference vetiver" is an appropriate description, with Guerlain delivering the perfect vetiver accord in all of its complex glory. Why this perfume is special needs two key pieces of context. In 1961 when it was released, vetiver was and had been used in many releases up to that point, obviously, and had been around as a staple aromatic in Southeast Asia in particular for hundreds if not thousands of years, but Guerlain can claim with limited debate that it created one of the first vetiver focused fragrances in modern perfumery; this was a fairly novel idea at the time (Carven was the first). The reason it was novel - the second piece of context - is that vetiver is a difficult ingredient to handle in perfumery (the natural extraction of it, at any rate, and synthetics aside). The amount infused into a perfume vs. the olfactive intensity of the accord seems to follow an exponential scale: there is a definite line where once you add a certain yet relatively conservative amount of vetiver to a perfume, vetiver tends to just take over the perfume. Couple this point to its olfactorily temperamental nature depending upon terroir and extraction technique, and you could get a vetiver that's woody and earthy, green and aromatic, or sweaty and swampy - or some combination thereof. All of this means that the material, up until 1961 at Guerlain generally speaking, was an accent to a perfume - not the star. Guerlain's Vetiver finally gave this incredible material of modern perfumery its own spotlight and showcases it at its absolute best and most compelling. The vetiver accord in this perfume is primarily green and aromatic, also woody and earthy at the base, and a bit salty and turned at the top. Guerlain doesn't hide any facets of vetiver, including the difficult facets, but it does make sure the edges are smoothed to a silken but lively texture. To make sure it was sufficiently rounded out and that all notes of the vetiver were allowed the correct volume, Guerlain added a juicy yet smooth lemon top note, a good heaping of fresh tobacco, and touches of pepper and nutmeg at the base. This perfume won't be for everyone: it won't strike anyone as modern (new generations will probably snub it), but it should strike everyone as a classic. Vetiver is also challenging by nature, but it is one of those materials that when at the hands and brain of a master, like Jean Paul Guerlain, it can be one of the most beautiful, complex, compelling and alluring accords in modern perfumery - if you are one of the people it speaks to, then it will have your heart. I am one of those people. I love vetiver in nearly all of its forms, and I especially love this Guerlain. I am very fortunate to have been able to get a vintage bottle in the correct concentration and in great condition, and I am grateful - as I sit here constantly raising my wrists to my nose for one more sniff, eyes nearly misting over at the beauty - that I can wear this exceptional piece of perfume history on a beautiful spring day.

*Note: The review is for Original Vintage Guerlain Vetiver Eau De Cologne - the 'Benchmark for Vetivers of all time...' This is not just a review, but for Early Guerlain Vetiver in Eau de Cologne concentration, it is an homage of sorts. To preface, I must first say that I am a HUGE fan of vetiver (both as a more singular presentation that allows one to understand different facets, or scents that include a significant use of the note) and my collection of vetivers is broad and deep (I have far more bottles and have sampled dozens more than what is listed in my wardrobe). Second, I believe Guerlain's Vetiver to be the basis point from which all vetiver fragrances should be considered - the "Benchmark". It is a classic, a true masterpiece in fragrance. The review is based on a wearing from a pristine, older 6oz Flacon of Guerlain's Vetiver Eau De Cologne (that came in the black & white zig-zag/zebra box). Stunning. Amazing and mesmerizing juice. This is over 40+ years old and was kept perfectly. To me, the Vintage Eau de Cologne is simply...The most magical essence of vetiver ever produced - clean, crisp, invigorating and deep without the tobacco from the EDT. It is Vetiver in its truest and more pure form that I have found from any house, ever...only a light top of citrus and, perhaps a touch of oakmoss - but nothing is more front & center than the gorgeous vetiver essence. There is absolutely nothing synthetic at all - this is apothecary and perfumery in harmony, bottled decades ago. As old as it is, in no way does it feel musty or dated. This is actually fresher smelling than bottles over 30 years younger than it! It is almost like wearing the oil of fresh vetiver root that has been diluted enough to not be harsh in any way with a squeeze of citrus added. It does go on a little sharp (a bit pungent, but rich and awe-inspiring), but it dries down to its fantastic and true form quickly (10-15 minutes or so) as the composition, to me, evokes the images of squeezing the essential oil of fresh vetiver root and then blending it with fresh spring water flowing in a beautiful green field...it is almost ethereal. There is nothing more pure than Guerlain's EDC from Vintage stock that has been kept perfect and cared for. My bottle was still sealed. It does not last as long as I would like in cold weather (50 degrees today and overcast), but it is so fresh I couldn't help but wear it - and reapply it. This will be a show-stopper in the spring, summer and warmer fall days. Overall - 10/10 for a pure, near-linear scent! And, one that has established an entire world of fragrances from its creation. A timeless bottle to enjoy for years to come...magnificent!!!! Forever, the benchmark or reference vetiver is Guerlain. It did not come first, or even second. Carven and Givenchy preceded it, but it over the decades since the late 1950's and early 60's...it has become what all else is and should be compared to. Chapeau!

“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” - Oscar Wilde How To Wear a Work of Art..... I will never forget the first time I sampled Guerlain Vetiver. It was after a long flight and I was lounging around the duty free of Schipol Airport, idly sampling the blandly generic contemporary offerings which just seemed to suggest that the future route for men’s fragrance was a cul-de-sac of reiterated but slightly-tweeked standard formulas. And then out of the side of my eye I spotted the discrete but immediately classical looking bottle and box of Guerlain Vetiver. Now I had recently come across mention of this fragrance in an article where it was highly acclaimed as one of the better fragrances from times past, one with supposed timeless appeal. Having a little time (and a small amount of skin remaining free for testing), I proceeded to spray and sniff. Immediately the associations that came to my mind were those of dental clinics, strong tobacco in humid evening air and some mysterious time of a green and distant past in my memory. Alongside this, the smokey-plastic vibe which is characteristic of Vetiver’s opening seemed too strong to bear comfortably. I made my excuses to myself and scrubbed. And then on the evening flight something extraordinary happened. I started to be reminded of past Spring evenings even as a child, times of cut lawn grass in the evening, threatening thunderstorms and old relatives with their tobacco and clove sweets smells....Needless to say, I was amazed. It was another couple of months before I got a chance to try Guerlain Vetiver again in an altogether more relaxed environment. This time, waiting for the drydown, the full effect of what I can only call an ‘elegant grassiness’ was allowed to unfold. Yes, some of the more immediate associations that I had before were still there, but with Vetiver I learned the point is to be patient and allow the top to work itself off for a bit before judgment. (Guerlain Vetiver assumes a prospective buyer is going to take the time – it could never be launched in a world of the fifteen second attention span.) In short, Guerlain Vetiver is a highly recommended try for anyone looking for a classic Springtime fragrance. While not at all dated or dandified, it is redolent of a mannered and sophisticated charm. It also has a definite artistry about it, and may well be a precursor to some later more individualistic fragrances of even recent years. Guerlain Vetiver carries a lot of fragrance history in its bewitching green fluid.

This men's cologne is completely an APHRODISIAC!!! Seriously, one of the hottest fragrances that I have EVER smelled on a man! An ex-boyfriend wore this, it was his signature scent... and was totally mesmerizing with his chemistry. We met in La Jolla and this guy had impeccable taste in clothing, interior design, car aesthetics, and of course -- women (he was dating me, right! LOL!) -- so these qualities I may attribute to this cologne just simply based on the fact that this guy had fabulous taste. I had never smelled a vetiver men's cologne like this before, so it was my first introduction to the note of vetiver... and I'm completely hooked after smelling this particular fragrance. Creed's Vetiver is much lighter, and I have actually worn that as a unisex fragrance, but my first vetiver love-- is Guerlain's brew. This is HOT!!! Kouros and Drakkar are two of my other favorite men's fragrances. They are all really good, but Guerlain's Vetiver really is my ultimate FAVORITE! This is a very masculine fragrance, not unisex. I love and adore this on the right man, with the right chemistry. If this is not a perfect blend with the chemistry, it could go on too strong and may turn possibly nauseatingly syrup-y... so try it and see how this blends with your chemistry. For some reason, this is really a particular fragrance that I find to be sexy and has a very raw masculine quality that is very HOT on the right guy! Love this one! TRULY a MASTERPIECE!!! -------------- A guy friend of mine tried this fragrance to see how it wears on him, it turned into a really green funky smell and within an hour - it was going very green... almost a manure type smell. Chemistry is really tricky and really determines what people can wear - and what they truly can't. You never know till you actually try this on your skin and see how it blends with your own chemistry. This is really GREEN... for those of you that wear Green fragrances well, you will probably LOVE this! Otherwise, it won't be your thing!

The Guerlain family has given so much to perfumery. Most importantly though they initiated an approach to perfumes that was more imaginative and instead of trying to imitate nature and its odors they approached perfumes as abstract themes. The original Vetiver is called the reference for a reason. The fragrance is the epitome of the perfect scent utilizing vetiver as the main note. So instead of having a minimal approach Jean-Paul took vetiver and made a composition (a fully developed perfume) and not some arrangement. This would be enough to make this scent be light years ahead of the present day minimal vetivers which hark back to figurative perfumery (mimicking the root). However, as a smell it is great too. Some citrus top notes (the rendition of the orange note is sublime) followed by a spicy (nutmeg and coriander most notably), herbal (some urinous sage effect) floral middle before delving into an endless unmistakably classy drydown of vetiver (probably the best ever). Dry, dark, elegant with more oakmoss and tobacco from the new version. Much dirtier (with animalic edges) with more licorice too along a more fougery, deeper character and generally rounder and richer. Buy “the reference” and see some old world tricks revealed or because you dangerously ambition to smell great. Niche brands still try to imitate it and although considered "dated" by some (strange since as a conception and execution is significantly more innovative than most current offerings) wear it and you will hear pin drops in every place you stand. MASTERPIECE

This fragrance is a marvel and a classic for good reason. I've been able to experience 3 different iterations of this: I. The one in the frosted, square bottle, II. The pre-reformulation bottle - same presentation as the Habit Rouge bottle, but on the pre-reformulation bottle, the cap is GOLD w/ the black ribbing at the cap's base III. The version available today, which has a SILVER cap w/ the black ribbing at the cap's base While the versions in the square frosted glass and today's version are serviceable, they are noticeably drier and feel less nuanced than the version I have from 1999 or thereabouts. The grassy vibe in the pre-reformulation is sweeter, greener and more aromatic. It has a more realistic lemon top note (the version available now is more like the ghost of a lemon) and overall, it feels more natural and seamless from top to bottom. One can easily identify the black pepper, the nutmeg, the tobacco, and of course, the loveliest vetiver I've ever experienced. So much in fact, that over the last 5 or 6 years, I've managed to secure about a dozen bottles of it. I actually bought out the entire stock of a tiny store in the South of France when I noticed they had a few on hand. They are in perfect condition and I kept them refrigerated, just for safety! An aromatic signature scent, wearable in any season. It's at once relaxed and polished, and extremely versatile. Very few fragrances actually make my heart race but this is one of them. To me, it is simply perfect.

Review for the vintage Eau de Cologne (green cylindric plastic bottle with round 'window' in the middle from the early 80's, according to the seller): In the top, I get a blast of citrus, that will swapped shortly after for a mix of aromatics (probably petitgrain, sage and basil but possibly also tarragon and artemisia giving an impression of celery), spices (mostly a dry nutmeg, but also coriander and black pepper) and a hint of florals (carnation, neroli). Only in the base will the vetiver go a bit more in the front, supported by moss and labdanum, that will give an overall impression of tobacco - with the aromatics still clearly present. I was expecting a 'dated' version of the current juice, but what I got here is a citrus/aromatic chypre, that comes shockingly close to L'Homme de Gres and also somewhat to Mazzolari Vetiver, Monsieur Balmain and Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte (fka Eau de Cologne). The vintage EDC is not a different formulation, it's a different fragrance compared to th current EDT: vetiver is not the star (petitgrain is), but only a noticeable note of a perfect blend. Only in the drydown will it start showing (remote) similarities with Vetiver Extreme, more so than current Vetiver EDT. Guerlain never disappoints. This one is no exception. Unfortunately the price resulting from its scarcity prevents me from buying a full bottle, but alternatives navigating the same waters are gladly still available for decent prices.

Guerlain Vetiver remains after all these years a unique and outstanding vetiver scent. Together with Encre Noir, it is also relatively inexpensive - if you are on a tight budget get these two and you will have covered a lot of the ground in vetivers. The top has some mixed citrus and lots of neroli (like a light bitter floral orange peel) with plenty of vetiver apparent from the start. The middle has some tobacco and perhaps clary sage, and the base is dominated by a clean grassy vetiver. Most vetiver perfumes trend toward the dark rooty smoky side, but Guerlain's is lighter and grassier, almost sweet. I love vetivers and have sampled a lot of them and this one is unique. Even if you don't normally like vetivers you might like this one. I have the EDT bottle pictured here (square incut center) and I don't know if it differs from the older bottle (ribbed), which Fragrantica lists separately and with a much more extensive list of notes (probably more accurate). By the way, Guerlain Vetiver Extreme is quite different and equally impressive - the citrus top is largely gone and replaced by tarragon (herbal anise-like), there is a nutmeg note in the middle, and the vetiver tone is more typically rooty. If GV is the urbane man, then GVE is the mysterious man.

The benchmark for vetiver fragrances. Jean-Paul Guerlain's first achievement, designed for the Mexican market, as there weren't many vetiver-themed scents on the market at the time. Carven's Vetiver, released in 1947, was the closest fragrance to vetiver before that - a true vetiver fragrance, not an essential oil. Jean-Paul Guerlain said his girlfriend was wearing a Carven Vetiver at the time. Vetiver uses dry vetiver as the main axis, bergamot entrance, smoky and green coexist, and Haitian vetiver itself is rich in nature. Neither bitter nor spicy, the salty taste of leather, tobacco, spice and vetiver, the sweetness of resin oozing, rich earthy. Vetiver is a fragrance material that can stand on its own and does not need to be embellished. In my opinion, this Vetiver from Guerlain is more simple and authentic, without any tricks. Vetiver embodies the spirit of vetiver, simple and textured, there is no reason not to buy it. In addition to being the best Guerlain men's fragrance, Vetiver is one of the finest vetivers on the market. Meticulous, masculine, tough, pure. The new version is unchanged, no need to wear a suit shirt.

A few days ago I tried the pre-2000 version on one arm and the post-2000 on the other. The old version smelled sweeter and more richly expressive in the top, but then got very weak, leaving only a little smoky green behind. (The funny thing is, I don't remember it being so weak on the previous times I've worn it.) The new version was sharper and stronger for the whole duratino, with more sour citrus in the top, and a reedy smell which I was able to pick up all throughout the development. I've found this reediness in the bases of a few other summery frags and I quite like it; it makes me think of bamboo. It appeals to me more than the tobacco in the base of the old version. Overall, they're noticeably different scents, but I like them both. They both convey the same classical candid and clean virility even though they go about it differently. If the old one continues to be weak in the middle and base for me, however, then even its richer top will not win it my favor over the new one. Still, it could just be that my bottle of the old version has lost some of its kick over the years.

The current Guerlain Vetiver is a great vetiver and a reference scent for beginners... ...But the original, pre-2000 formulation is, in my opinion, the best vetiver ever made. The current version (green ribbed bottle) is more lemony/zingy, a little soapier, and some more nutmeg, and overall more accessible with a bit more spring in its step. The ORIGINAL, (excuse me while I bow down) is dark, dry, austere, smoky and everything I could ever want in a vetiver scent. It's creamy and rich like a vetiver should be, but also highlights the smoky, medicinal facets of vetiver. The tobacco is more noticeable in the original and the fragrance is overall more dark and mysterious. It's beautiful, wonderful, mystical, magical, and guarantees hours of enjoyment each time I apply it. I dunno why, but I like Vetiver more in the classic "Habit Rouge" bottle. The Guerlain Vetiver of the past 10 years is definitely a must-try for anyone into fragrances, but at the end of the day, the original is the one I'd really wear.

Scent: 9/10 Longevity: 8/10 Sillage: 6/10 Bottle: 8/10 Batch: DH15D (Jan 1999) So I love the way this smells. The Vetiver smells similar to the vetiver in the newer batches, but this one has a very earthy dry scent in it, probably coming from the Tobacco. I really do love this, I don't smell any citrus in the opening, but that might be due to the bottle being old. I still think it smells amazing, I just wish I had a full 100ml instead of a 50ml, but I shall use it sparingly. Longevity wise it's surprisingly last a long time, my gf could still smell it when I got off work in the evening, so it basically lasted a whole 10 hours. So far I find Guerlain to be pretty good when it comes to longevity, all the ones I have tend to last past the work day, and also smelling pretty high quality for the price and smells different than what you can find in the department stores.

This is the first fragrance I choose and purchased for myself. It was 1976 & I was 14 years old. The newer versions of this are pathetic bastards of this masterpiece that do not deserve to bear the name. I curse those who "run" Guerlain now for putting out such drek. The closest I've come to the original (was) the new issue of the Roger & Gallet Vetiver. It smelled like summer, like beach (not like suntan oil!) it's dry, almost straw-like; as Noa spoke of above. I was priveliged to meet a woman who had imported bundles of Khus from Brazil at about the same time I began wearing this fragrance, except that she called it "pathchouli" as that was what they called it down there. As I rolled backwards, realing from the psychedelic experience of being ina room filled with these bundles, I told her what she really had...Vetiver.

I've owned the Listerine and now for the past year, I'm using the the frosted glass ribbed bottle designed by Robert Granai. What more is there to say that hasn't been said? This is the vetiver of all vetivers. Most people familiar with modern perfumery find this challenging. Most of my friends that enjoy fragrance more casually find this this difficult to enjoy. The modern is more easy going while still being a great scent. Guerlain has reformaluated this fragrance I'm sure many times, but it still maintains it's quality. However, If you're a vetiver connoisseur, you try to hunt down the vintage if your wallet allows. This version has more carnation and is less sanded down than the modern. A full bodied vetiver experience but not so dank it can't be enjoyable in warm temps once it dries down. A classic masterpiece

Ever wanted to have a summer flanker for Encre Noir? Well, this one not only answer the question, but changes everything. It has a lot of things I love from EN and much more, all in the same bottle (mine is 200 ml, I was enchanted). It goes well everywhere, anytime. EN can wait for those special moments and I miss it a little less. Do not worry too much about old and new version. *** ¿Alguna vez quisiste tener una versión de verano de Encre Noir? Bueno, pues este no sólo responde la pregunta, sino que cambia el escenario. Tiene muchas de las cosas que amo de EN y mucho más, todo en la misma botella (la mía es de 200 ml, estaba encantado). Va bien siempre, a todas partes. EN puede esperar a esos momentos especiales y la extraño un poco menos. No le presten mucha atención al asunto de la vieja o nueva versión.

I wore this all day. I had never smelled vetiver before, let alone lived with it on myself, but I like this. A woody, somewhat pungent scent - but appealing. Sadly, my wife is neutral about it. Vetiver reminded me of Edward I's Palace in the Tower of London - this is a good thing. I picked up some unique wood smell there I really found distinctive. It smelled like *history* to me and conjured up all kinds of interesting mental associations and fancies. Anyway, I like Guerlain Vetiver. Quite nice. ---- Second wearing: I am REALLY impressed with this. Someday I shall own a bottle. Update: Just bought a bottle. It's wonderful! A spirit lifter. I shall wear this for the rest of my life, I think. The more I wear it, the more I'm convinced that this could be the ONE scent. Gorgeous!

Guerlain's Vetiver opens with the same musty stuffy lemon a lot of Guerlains tend to have. I'm not particularly fond of this note, but I now know I just have to wait for the magic to happen. A soapy vetiver unfolds, pushing the lemon away, supported by a distinguished (I really have no other word to describe it) tobacco accord. The nutmeg shines quite strongly here to, creating a dry spicy vibe. To me, this is a gentlemen's fragrance. Distinguished, elegant, straightforward. Composed of few notes, but every single ingredient is worked to perfection. This perfume asks for a man in a suit, complete with hat, trenchcoat, pipe and a book or newspaper. Now excuse me while I continue to dream...

This vetiver is one of the most beautiful I have tasted, after SL's Oriental Vetiver. The latter is unisex. On my skin it smells elegant and very sensual. Guerlain Vetiver is for my nose much more masculine, it opens citrus and aromatic. Quickly giving way to a slightly more spicy and slightly soapy heart but with powdery nuances. The vetiver here stands out in an exquisite, fresh and very realistic way. The background becomes a bit warmer, earthy and woody. It is a high quality perfume that I really enjoy on a man's skin, it smells mature and classy. Substantivity on skin reaches 8 hours with moderate to slight diffusion.

Years ago, I fell in love with this accord when I purchased a vetiver room spray from The Thymes. Since then, I've searched for a true vetiver note in a fragrance, and this is it! Vetiver Guerlain must be glorious on a man, but I'm loving it on myself and I'd encourage women who love vetiver to explore this one. This is a very green fragrance accompanied by the stark snapping of a dry twig. Glorious. One of my all-time favorites. Longevity is good, the sillage is not overpowering, and the scent has remained steady throughout. I'm wearing this for the first time today and I look forward to having a full bottle of this one.

This is truly a masterpiece. I very much adore this fabulous Vetiver by Guerlain. It is phenomenal. I love the review by cbstarker particularly, because it is very very similar to my own experience with Vetiver when I first tried it. "the vetiver snuck up on me like a cat on velvet paws." Such a perfect feeling of what I went through, and even the rest of the review is so completely the same for me as my own. Thank you cbstarker. It is a wonderful vetiver. Perfection. Perfection. Thank you Guerlain for giving me such perfection - such a wonderful perfume.