Clandestine Parfum

This stuff is cosy, warm and decadent (in a statement jewellery, gloves, red lipstick and a fur) kind of way. So I would describe it as mature, but wearable IF you can handle big fragrances. As the Aldehydes here are big and boozy all the way through and the civet is animalic, in the best possible way, unapologetically. Which leads me to what I love about Clandestine, and that is that its richly plummy, but not dark and heavy like Posion, as the honey and pineapple really lend it a sweetness that is approachable; soothing even. Unlike Poison, which is vampiric and has no issues taking a bite! It opens aldehydic and powdery, which can be a bit scary if both notes overwhelm you. But thankfully the powder explosion, burns out quite quickly. Transporting you to the 1980s where glamour wasnt pared down or stripped back. Then, straight after the powder, then comes the heavies: Tuberose, Carnation, Damask Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Iris and Heliotrope. And they really take the centre stage here; coming alive in their own way; interweaving seamlessly, into this bold, exotic composition. The patchouli note is soooo smooth , with any ugly, thin, reedy, medicinal accents muted, but all the glory the note is here, alongside its benzoin and amber resin companions. Thankfully, any traces of vanilla and musk are minimal and are largely undetectable to my nose. But what is here is quality in their supporting role. And the spicy nuance I detect is lent partly, by a gorgeous full bodied carnation. As well as Marigold, which can really be detected here. As I've smelt it, over the years in some of my all time favorites like: Ralph Laurens Safari, Halston Woman and my beloved Van Cleef by Van Cleef & Arpels EDT, in bucket loads. So I can recognise its divinely spicy, aromatic, herbal accord in this fine composition.

This was a pleasant surprise - a dewy, fruity and sweet (not sugary) rose with underlying musk and subtle chypre effect.The rose/fruit note reminds me of raspberries and Turkish Delight yet not sickly or synthetic, as mentioned it's balanced with a sophisticated, subtle backdrop of woods, patchouli and musk It's classic and feminine in feel and though it hails from the 80s doesn't scream '80's!' to me. It's not as high impact as the typical 80s iconic perfumes such as Opium, Coco, Poison, Amarige or Sinan etc. I received this as part of a characteristically generous and interesting swap from @planet_X (formerly @Yohji). It hadn't crossed my perfume radar in the 80s and I can't remember any marketing. The bottle does look unprepossessing, but the perfume is impressive. I'd wear it myself, but my mum now wears it which is testament to its quality as she's loved all the real classics over the years - Miss Dior, Femme, Madame Rochas etc, more recently Cuir de Lancome. Clandestine seems more contemporary than those vintage perfumes. Big like!

CLANDESTINE FORGOTTEN EIGHTIES BEAUTY Guy Laroche has one fragrance that is very popular and beloved: Fidji, but this beauty has been largely forgotten. This is an 80's powerhouse fragrance and one of the first in the emerging new category of fruity-florals. It starts off with strong aldehydes, always a signature of an older vintage fragrance. The harsh aldehydes combine with fresh citrus, namely the bergamot but mostly the pineapple which to my nose is huge. This is a tropical punch as the fragrance begins to wear on your skin. There is also a juicy plum. Cassis wears like black currant and it's a syrupy grape, not like a grape made for wine. That scent leads into the floral heart of this fragrance. I could smell the tuberose and carnation, which is a big player but it's a lovely combination of other floral scents: rose, heliotrope, jasmine, ylang-ylang. The base is an animalic woodsy scent of civet and cedar. It is also very warm because of both the civet and the honey. There's plenty of honey. That reminded me of fragrances like Diva by Ungaro, or Passion by Elizabeth Taylor, something found in 80's fragrances which has a lot more going on the base notes. This smells musky and woodsy at the same time. It can therefore wear like a man's cologne so guys you can totally wear this and no one would identify this as a woman's perfume. This fragrance is somewhat similar to Maxim's de Paris which my French friend Lysette in Paris loves to wear. I was gifted a vintage Maxims and will be reviewing that one once I have worn it and experienced it long enough to analyze it. If you love 80's or early 90s vintage fragrances like Diva by Ungaro, LouLou by Cacharel, Tresor by Lancome, Roma by Laura Biagotti or Donna by Pavarotti this is for you. It's beautiful, elegant and sweet, as well as musky but not in an indolic way or dirty way. It stays so clean and beautiful, feminine and gorgeous. I would recommend this fragrance for day time wear because of the fruits, and for spring and summer. But you can wear it any time you want if you like it that much and I do.

When I first put this on it smelt similar to fendi Asja and I didn't like it much but after an hour or so it morph into another creature which defies categorisation,not exactly a floral not exactly an oriental touch of cologney vibe. I was mystified by that but now I read gigi's review I understand. Lovely mysterious scent. A dabber for sure. It stays close to you and lasts. Beautiful!