Safran Headspace

These days, it's not often that I am wowed by a fragrance, but when I tested Safran in store, I was immediately taken with it and couldn't stop smiling. It's one of those fragrances where Julien Rasquinet's style shines the most in my opinion. When first sprayed, Safran opens with a spiced, lightly smoked lapsang souchong tea note, supported by a touch of green galbanum. The opening is somehow mouth watering with fruity undertones from the osmanthus (not listed on Fragrantica), that becomes more prominent towards the mid. Immediately a slightly bitter mate tea note can be perceived, pulling us deeper into the composition towards a base of leathery saffron, grounded by patchouli. Iris and frankincense are listed as notes, which are not very prominent and act more as supporting notes. Once settled into it's dense leathery base, Safran keeps being vibrant off the skin, continuously releasing different nuances, truly a pleasure to go back to it and smell it over and over again. Interestingly, especially towards the base, one can detect stylistic similarities to Rasquinet's The Moon by Frederic Malle. Safran does not have the same scent profile as The Moon, but they definitely share some of the same building blocks, a clear artistic signature. In the air, Safran has a sort of dense lightness, leathery with bitter-fruity nuances. Outstanding work, an absolute pleasure to wear. Very long-lasting with strong sillage, the 50ml bottle goes a long way.

I don't really care for saffron and am not a fan of fragrances with a prominent Middle-Eastern perfume DNA in general (except some incense-centered stuff). When saffron is sparingly and to highlight other notes I can appreciate it. However, when the saffron is basically nuclear (like here in Heaspace Safran) I just want to scrub it off. It's got something pungent and cloying to it that I don't want too much of. Now despite the above I was curious about this because I happen to absolutely love the smell of tea. So I went to try it out hoping that in this case the saffron would share the spotlight with tea in at least equal measure. Regrettably for me, this is not the case. Headspace Safran reminds me very strongly of Matiere Premiere Crystal Saffron. It's a true to it's name front and center (and loud) saffron fragrance with a leather base. Tea is present, and smells very elegant, but it's delegated to play a side role. Performance is very strong. Your sheets will smell of this fragrance even after taking a shower.