Barynia

Barynia! Lost in time like so many others, hardly ever mentioned when 80’s perfumes come to mind and as of now fairly cheap to find. But it’s not something I would go out of my way to repurchase. Edp review, 200ml splash from first release. Barynia reminds me of many other fragrances, it doesn’t stand out, and while nice it doesn’t seem to offer something different. It’s under the radar and I can understand why. The opening is a bright beam of aldehydes, piercing in their blinding sparkle. Along them shines a beautiful jasmine that recalls First, and for the first half hour it almost smells like a brighter version of it. The similarity is uncanny. Soon after the rose appears, and along the carnation, it adds some spiciness to the retreating aldehydes. What’s left is a spicy and piquant veil that reminds me of the sudsy smell of the original Maja soap. The heart is a white floral bouquet. Tuberose along gardenia take prominence and the scent that emanates reminds me of another white floral, Michelle, albeit the latter has more personality (for me). Barynia doesn’t have much development after that. The drydown, with all its heavy notes feels smooth and lingering but nothing stands out. Oakmoss, sandalwood, civet (at times very noticeable in the opening, at times sadly absent), musk...they all appear kind of muted, like the last remnants of yesterdays perfume. I wish they had more presence to anchor it on skin. And I don’t think it’s a matter of degradation; my box was still cello sealed and the brightness and freshness of the scent is a testimony to its preservation and how well it was made. Back when quality mattered and existed. But as the “first fine fragrance from Helena Rubinstein” I expected more. Not everything can be an Opium, or a Poison, or an Ysatis, but honestly in all its beauty (it’s a gorgeous spring and summer fragrance) there’s little personality. It’s that beautiful stranger that doesn’t stand out of the crowd, no matter how hard she/he tries. I don’t regret owning it, the sillage is quite potent at first but slowly calms down to a very decent longevity, but once my humongous bottle runs out that’s it. My Michelle and company will suffice. Still, I do recommend it for lovers of vintage fragrances, and particularly those who feel a special attachment for late 60’s up to the late 70’s scents; Barynia would have shined back then!

Barynia is what I would call a "dirty rose fragrance" if there was such a category. Floral aldehyde? If so, very very light on the aldehydes. Floral? Strangely, of all the floral notes above, all I smell is rose. Well, allright then, maybe some jasmine, a touch of tuberose... but mostly rose. The rose is spiced up with some woods and civet which gives it slightly dirty undertones. Thus: Dirty Rose, and it falls in the same cathegory as Rabannes La Nuit and L'Arte di Gucci. But this little gem is so much milder and not in your face about anything, so you can easily wear it to work. It's a simply adorable fragrance for us who loves the dirty roses. (pure perfume) edit: The pure perfume does resemble Joy pure perfume, with a little less civet and an interesting twist from the vetiver.

If you don't like vintage from the eighties you might consider even tiny doses of aldehydes and civet as too much. If not, you're more likely to appreciate the gentle beauty that is this classy rose. This is not a dense composition, as the red rose is a star served by an airy accord of earthy vetyver and the fresh lemon & gently sweetened by hints of violet and sandal. The civet adds complexity, suggesting a body to go with this rose's cool dignity. The power of this scent is not volume, but integrity. Good longevity, moderate sillage.

While this is not my 'type' of perfume, I can appreciate it as an under-rated, complex beauty. It strongly reminds me of Guerlain's Nahema, so if you like that, you will likely enjoy this too. For me, it's hyacinth, benzoin, yellow flowers, carnation and tuberose but the 'civet' initially spoils it and makes it sickly. It's heavy in a 'perfumey" somewhat old school way (think Ysatis, Patou Joy and Guerlain Nahema) but does still have the airiness of Nahema that makes it wearable. I am not keen on this as the top and middle notes evolve - and evolve it does, this is not linear - but the dry down eventually becomes lovely, often some 10 hours later.

I got a 5ml sample of this. Hmm. Disappointing. It has been reformulated with some harsh and sneeze inducing chemicals I reckon. After an hour you get an acceptable rosy powdery dry down but this is not the classic jewel that it used to be.