Fume

Hendley Perfumes Fume is one of the better-reputed fragrances in Hans Hendley's line, and so it's unsurprising, yet unfortunate, that it's sold out and may not be coming back due to sourcing. Still, I'm glad to have tried it, as it falls into the category of dark fragrances that mix smokiness and woodiness superbly. The central note is balsam fir resin, giving off the vibe of a recently put-out campfire mixed with the dense resin of trees. In that respect, it's every so slightly a green fragrance, but only in the way the resin and smoke is classified. It's not purely smoke and dirty like Lalique Encre Noire, as there is real life in the balsamic, woody accords. A performance beast, as well, as one might expect from its dark character and in EDP concentration from an independent house. Pricing now seems to be up in the air since it's discontinued but this surely could demand high prices as a winter beast, something to don on winter nights. I imagine this would mainly work well for men instead of women, but it's not so purely masculine as to be exclusively so. The most similar fragrance that comes to mind is Slumberhouse Norne, as both Fume and Norne depend on the pivotal balsam fir resin note. And Profumum Arso has a similar heavy use of pine resin, so it's a little further removed, but still in the same vein. Fume is superb and I'd love to try and track down a bottle, or at least hope that Hans Hendley can bring it back somehow. Great stuff! 8 out of 10

Fume is almost a forest fire chypre—moss and pine sap intertwined, the former strengthening as it ages on the skin; resinous, sweet, bitter, and a little smoky simultaneously. If La Curie’s Incendo is a campfire in the forest at night, Fume is that fire smoldering the next morning—there’s a lightness to its weight, refracted green light through a density of trees. It does bear a resemblance to the aforementioned Incendo, and to Slumberhouse’s Norne, but it strikes a balance between these two—forest and fire in equal measure. Because of that, I find Fume to be quite wearable—it refuses the seasonal hallmark of pine-exclusive scents. It’s neither sticky nor cloying; natural and fresh but with deep warmth. I’ve worn it the most of any perfume in my collection this winter. It’s beautiful.

herbal and bitter dry vetiver at first with galbanum and cypriol in the top then sweetens a bit and becomes a bit more resinous as it dries down with the addition of fir but not a typical Christmas tree scent. This is kind of like walking in the woods at night with pine trees and a bonfire but more herbal, sort of in the category of Dasein Winter Nights but less smokey and less woody, more camphorish and aromatic

I love the smokey recent campfire smell. I'm not really seeing the longevity and silage that is indicated above. I suppose this might be a new batch which is not quite as strong as it used to be. But my wife did notice it, and really liked it. And I do smell it on myself the next morning, so maybe it is olfactory fatigue, I'm not sure. But I want it.

OK, I was just doing it wrong. Now, having gotten my own bottle, I realize that 1 spray is enough, on my chest or my wrist, and it happily lasts. But if I do 3 or 4, I quickly can't smell it any longer. Less is more. This is my second Hendley perfume, and I love it.