Hermessence Epice Marine

More than meets the nose. A solid offering from the Hermessence line by Jean-Claude Ellena. Once again, I cannot speak from experience – I seem just a bit too young to recall any serious fads in fragrance and I can merely read up on previous events. In the mid 90’s it was all about the ‘aquatic’ and funnily enough now in 2014 we have the Oud obsession. ‘Aquatic’ sprouts much unneeded fear and trepidation in the hearts and noses of many fragrances fanatics and connoisseurs all around the world. I just missed the early to mid 1990’s rage for L’Eau D’issey, CK One and Acqua Di Gio – So I guess I consider myself blessed, or something like that. The colognes/EdTs laden with citruses, watery notes and calone with the distinct scent of melon and sweet fruit turned from something supposedly new age, vibrant and rejuvenating to a rather offensive waft of fragrance impetuously worn and sprayed on without consideration of others. There’s a sickly sweetness from the aromatic aquatics that sets it apart from citrusy colognes, making it invariably overbearing upon an overly generous application. Whilst the inescapable goal of aquatics is to smell like... well to smell like sea and salt water (duh): being all blue, salty, green, mossy, driftwood-y, seaweed-y and all that jazz, it is also important to keep those notes down to a minimum. The goal for a fragrance to smell predominately like sun-touched skin from a Mediterranean sun, a towel-dried body with a fine layer of sea salt or just plainly the ocean can often be a little quixotic or just unrealistic. I feel that shouldn’t be focal point in this style of fragrance, but merely an idea to improve upon; and I’ll even say it myself – even nature is imperfect or more enigmatic than what you once may have thought. Épice Marine is... I guess a specific sort of aquatic. It would be unfair to call Épice Marine an aquatic because I cannot detect any melon or tropical fruit vibe at all in the mix, so the framework for the typical aquatic is not fulfilled – nevertheless this merely contains a smidgen of calone, the default aquatic note. It opens freshly, vibrant and awakening. It has two distinct features from the opening few moments: It delivers a beautiful briny punch of bergamot and orange freshly picked and squeezed with the warm gourmand hit of toasty cumin and cardamon. Only the slightest aspect of cumin’s sweaty character is revealed and the bittersweet pungency floats along in the opening already rejecting the aquatic model. If you smell sternly a beautiful honey-hazelnut whisky note comes through with all of the complexity still attached. The facets of wet wood, charred casks, sweet grass and peat all make an appearance ultimately making you swoon and shiver in rapturous pleasure. Considering this, this is exactly what you can expect from a collaboration between the master impressionist Jean-Claude Ellena and the three Michelin starred spice king Olivier Roellinger. The inspiration for this fragrance is steered in a direction stemming from mutual respect for each other’s craft and the olfactic delights each entail. Born from an encounter in Cancale, Brittany, the admiration for what the location contains ultimately lead to this fragrance. The aroma of the sea, the meddling tones of blue and grey in the sky and on the shore with the nasal perception of spice (èpice); the cold sea almost contradicting the warm spice transported by the pirate trade with the intriguing smell of rope, rotting wood, sand and shingle fusing together to create a deep, storytelling fragrance of adventure, trade and time. Anywho, I am certain there is a virtually innumerable amount of rare and exotic spices in the mix and rightly so. The sweet roundness of cardamon and the woody roasted character of hazelnut deviates from some of the grassiness of the vetiver in the blend. The smell of toasted sesame seeds adds a level of comfort whilst the merest amount of oakmoss provides depth and realism. So I guess, by the term ‘aquatic’ you wanted to provoke the smell of the sea, evoke the grit of sand and pebbled shorelines and the scent of sweet brine and wave smashed wooden ships then this is the best you can get. I’m going to label Ellena ‘Master Teleporter’. Smell and you shall see why – this time we go to a cold and grey sea shore. 5/5

Has Jean-Claude Ellena ever visited Cape Cod? I imagine not, but Épice Marine gives me that "dunes of the cape" sensation, sans piña coladas. This has the ozone of the shores first and foremost, reminiscent of jaunts to Chatham or P-Town in the summertime. Of course, peel that layer away and we do have the cumin and cardamom that we all know and love from Cartier's Declaration, but it's more refined and mingling with the other moving parts here. A savory, toasted sesame seed quality, almost reminding me a bit of freshly baked bread (I believe this might've been intentional from what I read regarding the concept), contrasting with this mineral-like quality in the heart, a bit salty and cool. It's sort of like lime and vetiver combined together creating this effect. It was certainly a courageous move on Ellena to endeavor such combinations that would in less disciplined hands (see Beaufort London with Lingum Vitae, review coming soon) resulting in something jarring, even nauseating. Here, it is so round, smooth, and makes sense to my nose. Of course some may think that this is too similar to Declaration or even more so to Roudnitska's masterpiece Eau d'Hermes, but I would hazard to say that maybe these are cursory conclusions, as Épice Marine pushes the template into new and compelling territory with the edition of maritime and vaguely gourmand elements. I wouldn't blame one for not going full bottle (as with all from the Hermessence line) unless they find an eye-catching discount as I had with my own. Be that as it may, I am sure lucky to have a good quantity of this delicious juice with which to lavish myself.

The Hermessence line, a collection of Hermès-themed olfactory watercolours by Jean-Claude Ellena, are consistently good, but they tend to be likes rather than loves for me. Epice Marine is what it says on the tin - a spicy marine scent. I don't typically choose marine scents, as I find that they can veer close to window cleaner territory, but EM is one of the best I've tried. The aromatic spices marry beautifully with the salty marine accord, making for an unusual, artistic scent that manages to be wearable without it descending into an unfortunate dinner-like scent. Due to M. Ellena's talent and signature light touch, EM is a marvel. EM has a surprising light, boozy opening, paving the way nicely to the spicy accord. Led by cardamom, it is peppery and warm with a slight nutty undertone, bringing it to gourmand territory. Cinnamon follows, rounding it out with its warm sweet-spiciness. The salty undertone keeps it breezy and fresh, giving the warm spice a lift. There is a light lemongrass edge, adding herbal freshness. As it dries down, a light chypre base comes to the fore, with soft mossiness emerging thanks to the oakmoss note. Alongside the marine accord, it gives EM a seaweed effect, perfectly on-theme. Soft woody notes round it out to perfection, and it fades to a salty, musky skin scent. Sillage and longevity are moderate. A perfectly unisex warm weather scent, EM is a masterful marriage of spicebomb and marine, making for a creative, cohesive, high-quality scent that makes perfect sense. Excellent. 4.5/5.

Épice Marine is beyond any doubt work of a genius, to begin with. Its similarity to Declaration, mentioned by some reviewers, is vague and superficial only. In side by side testing, Épice Marine shows way more finesse, depth and much higher grade of complexity over Declaration. So much so, that perceiving these two as the same or similar, might suggest anosmia, partial one at least. In fact, it’s like comparing old Fiat Bambino with a brand new Bentley – they both have something in common, like four wheels and the ability to drive. But that’s where the similarity ends, and the rest is two different worlds! I personally am not, nor ever have been a fan of aquatic compositions. In fact I sincerely and uniformly hate them. However, Épice Marine is a wonderful and welcome exception that I happened to discover by accident. The first whiff of this multi-faceted gem had brought back some wonderful memories. It instantly transported me back to one of my most favorite places on the coast of South Africa. Place flooded with lazy afternoon sunlight, filled with salty smell of the ocean mixed with the relaxing atmosphere of the nearby tiny seaside restaurant. What a perfect, perfect illusion! And that’s precisely what a good fragrance is supposed to do! Evoke feelings, emotions and revive memories. To me, it doesn’t get any better than this, so...I walked out with 200 ml bottle in my hands, and I’m so glad I did!

Because of the aquatic notes I was sure I wouldn't like this, but Jean-Claude Ellena managed to surprise me again! Rose Ikebana is one of the only rose perfumes I love, Vanille Galante made me love lily when I was more into oriental or spicy perfumes, Un Jardin Après la Mousson showed I could adore melon in a fragrance... But I didn't believe I would like a spicy aquatic perfume, even from Ellena. I was so wrong. This is my favourite Hermessence! I couldn't decide before between Vanille Galante, Rose Ikebana and Ambre Narguilé, but Epice Marine is so strange and addictive that it immediately became my favourite. When I first tested it I thought "oooh cardamom, Kenzo Jungle l'Eléphant !", but with a salty note, and a masculine feel. I wore it during summer, in Japan, and while it's a very spicy and peculiar perfume, it never feels strong, it manages instead to feel fresh and it's not projecting very much, which I really appreciate. I love curry and while you can immediatly smell the cumin and cardamom, this perfume does not feel foody to me, in fact it feels quite abstract with the aquatic notes. The evolution on skin from the top notes to the dry down is amazing, this is probably my favourite perfume on a humid summer!

Wow, Epice Marine by Hermessence is artwork in a bottle. Imagine soft top notes of mediterranean spices with subtle drops of top shelf brown rum, and then the with hints of orange and spritz of lemon along with freshly grounded cinnamon in the center. Finally in the base is probably one of the most beautiful clean marine-oceanic blue notes ever composed followed by smoky wood. Just a brilliant and breathe taking composition for not just a typical aquatic, but more like a marine. Seriously, just give it time to develop, and you'd be somewhat hard press to find anything that could match or compare. I hope this isn't too long; I had an opportunity to stop by Hermes in Chicago, and decided to sample Epice Marine. I sprayed it on a card, and instantly didn't care for it. Apparently, after getting back in the car, I laid the test strip in the cupholder next to my cellphone. The next day while driving my nose detected something fresh and delicate, after looking in the cupholder sure enough it was test-strip, and hot damn I hypnotized. Epice Marine is honorable of a good trial; Not for only 1-day but more like 3-to-4days.

This is one of my favourite scents by JC Ellena. I love his transparent style and I find myself reaching for one (or more) of his creations whenever I go on holiday to a tropical destination. I have spent the last week in Maui rotating various Hermes fragrances - Epice Marine, Jardin sur le Toit, Poivre sammarcande) . I love them all but my favourite is EM. Off the top I get cumin and cardomom, then in the middle, a citrussy seaweed vibe and in the base a vetiverish mossy note. Performance is satisfactory (could be better) and I have received compliments on it. At first whiff, one would think this is more suited for a guy to wear, but I think it is truly unisex. It certainly is not a girly floral-fruity-sweet fragrance and perhaps in a former life, I would not dream of wearing this. However, as my taste in fragrance evolves, I find myself reaching for these more unique offerings. I know of no comparable fragrance, save for maybe Heeley's Sel Marine. This is a one-of-a-kind beauty that reminds me why I so dearly appreciate the art of perfumery.

One of the most beautiful citrus scents I've ever tried, but it completely fell apart on me within an hour. I know the Hermessence line is supposed to be a type of long-lasting skin scent, but this had no longevity on me at all, as is a typical problem with citrus fragrances. I also tried the Brin de Reglisse, and there you got more of the feel of a longer-lasting skin scent. If only this would last on me a bit longer, it would definitely be a full bottle purchase, despite the price. UPDATE: I wore this on a very hot day, and my skin being warm made all the difference in bringing the fragrance out. Also applying it on moisturized skin that had not just been washed in the shower. I had to reapply, but it lasted for the duration of the day.

This is amazing. I smell the cumin, lime, cardamom and vetiver in the background. But most of all, I smell the salty water. And it is beautiful. Its a piece of art. To me this perfume is somehow a bit cold and sharp but I still love it. Its like a walk on the beach during winter season. On my skin it lasts forever. I apply it on top of my arms at 7am and can still smell it by 10 pm. I only have a sample of it. If someone has a bottle they are tired off and want to sell pls drop me a message.

I was surprised that it reminds me of Tom Ford London a little (must be the cumin), but much fresher and wearable! I also smell a good chunk of cardamon, which reminded me of Ellena's other creations. Just like some mentioned, I was initially repulsed by the idea of a marine/aquatic scent (not because of the sweetness, but the bitterness that comes after), but I was utterly impressed by this fragrance! One of the most masculine fragrance in the collection; I like it more than Vetiver Tonka!

Tried this with no intention of enjoying it - but, surprise, I do! Not one for marine scents, but Ive a 4mL sample and I'm totally knocked over. totally spicy and salty, massive cumin and cardamom. How strange. Not worth $300, but still lovely.

Received a sample and really enjoying it. Definitely Cumin is the initial note that strikes you and then the sea salt. Not a blind buy but an interesting choice for a man.

In stores already.. I can't wait to test it (7 more days .. wooo-saaa LOL)

Upon spraying Epice Marine, I perceive an almost laundry-like clean white musk with a faint touch of fresh transparent citrus. But it soon gets overrun by salty sea breeze bringing along fragrant cardamom and cumin. The spices here exhibit a rather cold feeling, which complements the marine theme perfectly; their woody undertone makes a seamless transition with the vetiver in the background which acts like the anchor of a boat; the spiciness cuts off the possible "fishy" connotation of the algae-like saltiness, and transforms it into something much more savoury like caviar. Moreover, the cumin here is neither sharp nor sweaty to my nose; instead, it has a subtle unsweetened woody nuttiness rounding off the scent elegantly. From then on, Epice Marine remains largely unchanged as a salty spicy fragrance with a clean white musk looming underneath, although there are times when this clean white musk resurfaces, the combination of the squeaky cleanness and the salty spiciness makes me uneasy. The sillage of Epice Marine is mostly close to skin, and the longevity is around 8 hours. Initially, I was not impressed by Epice Marine, perceiving it as a run-of-the-mill aquatic men's cologne. However, after reading the PR story about its creation published on Vanity Fair, where Ellena talked about how he chose roasted cumin to get rid of the sweaty aspect while preserving a nuttiness, etc, all the pieces clicked and I started to see the intrinsic charm of Epice Marine. Even though marine fragrances are not my favourite type of fragrances, I find the interplay of salty, spicy and nutty facets in Epice Marine quite interesting, even though the white musk is sometimes too sharp to my liking. As a marine fragrance with a spicy, savoury touch, Epice Marine would be an interesting option, but do test before purchase if you happen to have low tolerance to laundry-style white musk.

This is one that you most definitely need to test on your skin to get the full picture! Smell it directly from the cap, or spray it into the air - SALINE SOLUTION! Do it right and spray it onto your clean, moisturized skin, and you'll smell of a sexy, well groomed man :) The heat of slightly sticky skin is where the magic happens! Initial spray: You're immediately hit with a fresh, aromatic spiciness with quite a bit to disect! Cinnamon, a blend of light, uplifting spices (hey cumin!) , a wave of something fresh, and whiskey with a sprig of mint thrown in! The boozy note is refreshing, not woody, smoky, or sweet. I do not detect any seaweed, saltiness, or anything with an ambergris/fishy odor, which is a huge plus for me! No bergamot or citrus, either (bummer)! This is a classic, slightly more refined masculine "I just shaved and I know I smell really f*n good" aftershave scent! Leans very much to the masculine side. While refreshing and uplifting, I don't think it's a scent I'd reach for as a woman (obviously, wear whatever you want)!! It does get slightly more warm and cocooning as it starts to dry down. That little sprig of mint subsides, and the moss starts to reveal itself. I knew I had smelled this before....... Gillette mens shaving cream (the one with the frosted green cap and blue bottle)! I'm not trying to reduce this fragrance down to something less than.....I LOVE the smell of that clear blue gel and I'm glad I've found a way to get it to stick around longer, post shave! If you have the money to spare, go for it! If not, lather your body head to toe in blue gel and make yourself a shower drink! Longevity: Will report back! In my experience, it was pretty average - weak. Sillage: Moderate if oversprayed, 2 sprays gives you a skin scent.

It's not what I expected, but interesting nonetheless. I'm usually sensitive to cumin, but I don't get it here in any way. Instead, I'm hit with something very bright, citric, and herbal. I can't properly tell what it is but it reminds me of lemongrass, and something gingery, giving it a herbaceous bite. It could be cilantro? I'm not really sure. I sprayed it on my skin to spend time with it so I can see how it will behave as time progresses. I'm expecting the cumin would appear later on but it pretty much stays like it for the rest of its life span. On the drydown though, there is something aquatic trying to peak through that sheet of herbaceous citric note as that accord settles down. I'm talking about calone aquatic, but this no way a L'Eau d'Issey. What I like about the drydown is that as the herbaceous citric note settles down, it merges smoothly with that subtle aquatic note that oddly, has a tiny vanillic-ambery tone in it. Still, it is no way a straight up vanillic, powdery amber. On this stage, those aforementioned subtle suggestion of accords that binds with the toned-down herbaceous citric note, merely gives the fragrance a really nice aquamarine fantasy life of mermaids and corals and sea blue tones in an expensive, hotel amenities. Ok, maybe this is too refined smelling for a toiletry product, but this is a scent that I want to bathe in while in a vacation, hahahaha.

I've read many of the other reviews, and they make sense after smelling and wearing this. My very first impression of Epice Marine was that of a janitor's closet with an element of lemon-lime scented stickers from childhood (that have a distinct, artificial smell) that eventually calmed down into a shaving cream smell. The scent does have some nuance and it presents a bit of mystery, and it took me some time solve it. I did eventually find enough intrigue in the opening to get a full-sized bottle, but my initial reaction (when I received a tester) was far-from-love. Epice Marine is one of the longer lasting in the Hermessence line, and one of the few that starts and ends in totally different way - it opens with a strong aromatic bouquet and dries down into the marine element. I find it to be the most masculine of the line along with Poivre Samarcande. It looks like Epice Marine being phased out (anecdotal from my side, but it's not listed on the US site anymore). This is one that you must try before you buy (if you can find anywhere to do either). I have found that it offers some interesting combinations when layered with other Hermessence items - Osmanthe Yunnan and Ambre Narguile were both pleasant surprises paired with this one.

As with his other offerings within the Hermessence line, Jean-Claude Ellena expresses his artistic gifts in capturing an olfactory memory in his most recent creation; Epice Marine. I must admit that the opening burst of cumin (though masterfully balanced with bergamot) was slightly off putting at first. Thankfully these top notes are left to scintillate away, leaving a breadth of artistic nuances behind to discover. Anyone who has visited the oceanside will appreciate the way in which Ellena has captured its marine notes in this fragrance. Cumin, cardamom, cinnamon and sesame intermingle here to create the salty, briny ocean air. It is here a said "algae note" can be detected, which lends a watery accord. Vetiver with its woody, vegetal qualities reminds me of the elegant grasses which dot the sand dunes and dance in the sea breeze. Lastly, there are subtle notes of whiskey and oak moss in the base which add a layer of smokiness and soften the salty/marine notes. It is wonderful to see what a great mind and artistic genius can create when he is given complete creative license. Recently nominated for 2014 Fifi in the best luxury fragrance category, and very well deserved of the recognition. (121)

Hey sailor. I find this fragrance immensely comforting. It reminds me of being near the sea, on a cold day with the fog rolling in, heavy grey sweater on. It's beautiful and my favorite "aquatic" fragrance by far... I've tried many, and nothing else is vaguely in the same league. I wear it all the time, and it's neck and neck with Poivre Samarcadre for my favorite JCE scent. Easily one of my top 5 favorite fragrances. Oddly, I have not tried Declaration, which many reviewers are comparing this to, so that's next on my list to sample. I respect that many people do not like the delicacy of Ellena's work (considering each fragrance costs a zillion dollars), but I love the subtleties of his approach... Also, I never thought of body odor until I read the other reviews... and just to be clear, that evocation in Epice Marine is super-subtle... but I can appreciate that for some folks it's a deal-breaker. (For me, it's a plus.)

In essence, Épice Marine is Ellena’s contemporary interpretation of Roudnitska’s Eau d’Hermès, a modern stance to such an iconic and unforgettable creation. It is built around the same citrus-cumin contrast, the spiciness battling the freshness without either ever taking the lead. The main difference here is in how the freshness is represented, for there is no smoky birch leather, instead replaced with a most pleasing sea water accord which is airy and uplifting yet also slightly salty. The ingenuity is impressive, to take one of the great classics and modernise it successfully is no easy task. But, at the end of the day, there are still similarities between the two. This is a great option for those who perhaps felt Eau d’Hermès was too old school, but for me personally I will always reach of the original, making this perfume great, and admirable, but obsolete in my collection.