Parfum d'Hermes

Another masterpiece but discontinued scent by Hermes. Classic green floral with an woody ambery base. Metallic but warm and a little bitter. Hiacynth and rose whith a bold shadow of galbanum. Also you can feel aldehydic notes in that. It reminds me of Guerlain Chamade, they really have same green floral phase. . ایده ی عطار های این شاهکار ریموند چیلان و اکیکو کامِی ساخت عطری در اوج کیفیت بوده تا بتونه نمایانگر شکوه مزون هرمس در سرتاسر جهان باشه. . فضای کلی رایحه سبزِ گلی و تلخ هست با زمینه ادویه ای چوبی و روکش ظریفی از جنس فلز! پیچیده و چند وجهی... . رایحه ای فلزگون احتمالاناشی از وجهه ی متالیک گل رز به همراه باریجه شروعی سبز، فلزی و نسبتا تلخ رو برای عطر رقم میزنن. سنبل هم از همین ابتدا با حضور پررنگش سعی میکنه حس خیس و نمناک گلیش رو به رایحه القا کنه و شاید بیراه نباشه اگه بگیم کمی هم حس متالیک عطر رو تشدید میکنه. . رز نقش مهمی رو در ساختار این عطر بازی میکنه اما سبک بوش اینجا کمی متفاوته. نه گلاب ماننده نه شیرین و میوه ای. بنظرم بیشتر سبز، فلزی و گس هست. . رفته رفته آلدهیدِ صابونی زنگارِ فلزی رایحه رو تمیز و متعادل میکنه و گل ها از پشت حصار فلزیِ تاپ نت آزاد میشن و لطافت و شیرینی گلیشون در کنار باریجه که همچنان تلخ و سبز یکه تازی میکنه فضای باطراوت باغ گل رو یادآوری میکنه. اما کماکان چارچوب فلزی کمرنگی دور رایحه وجود داره. . برگ برنده ی پارفوم دو هرمس از طرفی منحصر به فرد بودن رز خونین عطر و حس سبز فلزی اون درترکیب با رایحه تلخ و خاکی گالبانوم هست و از طرفی تزریق اکسیری چوبی ادویه ای صمغی به پیکره ی این ترکیب سبز ... . چوب و ادویه جات دست به دست صمغ های تلخ و شیرین پس زمینه ی رایحه رو به زیبایی رنگ آمیزی میکنن و به اون عمق و غنا میدن. این زیرلایه ی گرم و نرمِ چوبی صمغی ادویه ای باعث ایجاد هاله ای بالزامیک و رزین مانند در اطراف عطر میشه. . درمجموع نت های عطر خیلی شاخص نیستن بلکه ما با ترکیب بسیار غنی و متراکمی روبه رو هستیم که نمیشه در یک نگاه موادش رو از هم تفکیک کرد و فقط به یک خانواده بویایی نسبتش داد. بین کارهای کلاسیک هم مشابه های زیادی نداره اما خب کمی یاد آور عطر شمد از گرلن هست. . ضمنا خود برند هم در سال ۲۰۰۰ میلادی، در شیشه ای مشابه اما بارنگ قرمز و با نام "روژ" اقدام به بازتولید این عطر کرد که نسخه جدید شباهت بسیار زیادی به جد بزرگوارش داره.

What is Parfum d’Hermès? A hybrid oriental chypre, the same family as Dioressence. This 1984 release, by Akiko Kamei, who never really had many perfumes credited to her, and Raymond Chaillan has more depth and more twists and turns than the notes might make you believe. Chamade comes to mind immediately after application. That rich hyacinthine powder with galbanum that translates as spicy and sweet at the same time is turned up to 11. It smells of proper perfume. What many describe as French. This ‘Frenchness’ is more apparent in the heart, where it follows a similar path as Calèche with strokes of rose, jasmine, ylang, iris...it is however far more intense, baroque and luxurious. As an 80’s release, it turns the volume up, adding also to the mix a clove-y spiced orange without falling into Xmas pomander territory. The longer drydown marries oakmoss with myrrh and resins, balsams and slivers of animal notes. Its cocooning as any oriental, with the stature and pose of a good chypre. It’s woody thanks to a fatty Mysore sandalwood. It’s richly hued, specks of leather and some herbs enriching the mossy base. It’s a forest floor where mushrooms grow. PdH is boudoir where Calèche is horse riding. It’s extravagant where Calèche is prim and proper. It’s very much unique, as this oriental chypre genre never evolved much beyond Dioressence, which was far more herbal. It has the glow of nitromusks of yore, though by the 80’s they were practically banned everywhere. That same feral growl of good ol Chanel N°5 cologne, where the animalic notes reign supreme. It’s got that same feel of smelling Miss Dior, Chamade, K de Krizia and, from modern creations, Mito and Dryad. It’s a powdery aldehyde, enveloping the green and purple to give us a new shade of green that is as plush as a shag carpet! I truly find it the best Hermès. I’m also happy that Hermès omitted mentioning it in the same sentence as Barénia in the marketing. The two could not be more different.

There is something measured about Parfum d'Hermes. In comparison to its ilk during its release, it slinks, its strokes, its glistens, but doesn't command. It's quite polite, actually, but by no means is it unremarkable. It's most salient features are its gentle sparkle of aldehydes, its flirting with the verdant without actually jumping into the bushes, and the rose and iris which forms its cadre. There is just a bit of fatty ylang ylang serving as flesh to their bones. It may at first fool you into thinking its some gossamer veil after its opening, but the unctuous myrrh and powdered iris moves forward a bit later in development, yet it behaves deliberately. I do appreciate how the bitter galbanum of its opening melds into the bittersweet myrrh of the dry down, something I haven't recalled encountering elsewhere. It's warm, woody, and restrained in its base, only suggesting a feral shade. It gives me the same sense of studied splendor as Guerlain Parure or Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut. My Hermés archive is now complete!

smell Iris almost all the way through this one. Which is a good thing; I love iris. I get a lot of hyacinth in the opening, along with a bit of bergamot, and something that makes it sparkle. That might be the aldehydes. The middle of this is gorgeous. Powdery, sweet iris. It always makes me think of candied violets, and reminds me of the smell of my Meteorites powder. If I had to compare it to something, I'd say it reminds me a bit of Givenchy Le De, although this one is more floral and that one is more powdery. The drydown is nice too. I get a lot of incense, and a bit of amber. I agree with the reviewer who said that the top seems out of balance with the rest of the perfume. The top seems younger and fresher to me, but it's such a lovely scent overall that I don't mind.

D'Hermes was created in 1984 by Raymond Chaillan and Akiko Kamei. Bursting by oily balsamic myrrh rose and hyacinth, aldehydes dipped in galbanum, obviously-older brother of Hermes Rouge, for most of people these two might seem to be the twins....Nevertheless First and immediate reaction from that resinous myrrh in d'Hermes is Caron Sacre. While in Hermes Rouge you quite fascinated by Samsar-ish rich flowing sandal. Rouge dustier, louder, woodier, d'Hermes more rosy and incens-y Also if to go for simples – Rouge is sweeter – parfum d'Hermes saltier from aldehydes and amber. That's if to bring d'Hermes to point of parallelism and to show what is different for those, who interested to know. I can't say which one I love more though, just happy to own both now.

I have a vintage bottle which I bought blind and tried without looking at the notes here. I find the notes listed to be... not what I smell. This is GREEN. It starts almost bitter, and settles into a lovely green scent. Not quite fresh, but very green. I suspect the galbanum is just drowning out everything else. There's a bit of a nice mber/labdanum base, a bit dry/powdery (NOT face powder/makeup). And a little sharpness to the green. I suspect the reviews on this will vary a lot based on the age of the bottle. To my nose the vintage is predominately a green fragrance. (This is in the same genre as Must de Cartier and maybe even a tinge of RL Safari for me, both vintage formulas.)

OMG! I'm surprised that this perfume doesn't get too many reviews!! I had the old bottle one...this perfume is the embodiment of feminine sophistication! It's a soft,powdery floral scent,although I did get the aldehyde,unlike caleche, it's a very subtle aldehyde and it blends really well with the jasmine and hyacinth notes. I love the classy vintage bottle. Staying power is excellent & sillage is good.I really want to repurchase but I'm still searching for the right price :D. If you like to smell classy,feminine & sophisticated,you should try Parfum D'hermes.

I remember Rouge in the gorgeous red bottle many years ago and I loved it. I took a risk and bought this version at a very good price and I’m glad I did. As soon as I tried it I remembered why I had loved Rouge. This isn’t as full on as Rouge, but the opening notes are the same and the sillage and longevity are excellent. It reminds me of my much loved Alamut in that they can both be seen as classic fragrances, although Alamut has more tangy notes. It also reminds me of Teint de Neige - the gold standard for powder in my opinion.

I have a small round bottle 50 ml with golden lid and red box. It starts with very green notes and aldehydes it is quite similar to Caléche and Chanel No.19. After it settles down I can feel incense,galbanum and spices. The drydown is quite sweet and powdery ending with vanilla. It is very beautiful and calming.

Vintage pure parfum: This is a warm, resinous, spicy rose and iris fragrance with a dash of powder. It stands out in a crowd being elegant and sophisticated yet it is also approachable at the same time. Such a gorgeous perfume and well worth the hunt.

Of course Parfum d'Hermès deserves a better review, but for now, all I have to say is: It is lovely, lovely, lovely! It surpassed all my expectations.

Close to the all time classic fragrances of Chamade and Heure Exquise Annick Goutal... A vibe of later version of Chanel no. 19 and Silences .....

(granted my EdT is a good three decades old and i suspect was not kept under ideal conditions, nevertheless...) A rose to my nose. But an unexpectedly changing one. From the head through the heart a single dewy pink Parisian luxury boutique crystal bud vase rose. Soft. Sophisticated. Supple. Aloof? ... well, serene for sure. Chic. And somewhat (sadly?) alone. Charming all the same. so very nice... so prim, so proper... so perfect she verges on anodyne, actually. She simply doesn’t put a foot wrong! And therein lies my conundrum, i’m thinking, with this semi-mythologised aristocratic classic. Perhaps my sensibilities are simply too gauche to approach her? Undeniably beautiful. And yet, like an exquisite Kyoto confection, too beautiful to be consumed... until ... until? aw, oui, the dry down descends... and slowly, sensuously, a velvet gloved clutch of burgundy rouged bursting blossoms deliciously bathes the bosom of my daydreaming desires, gently draping me over a silken damask divan beneath swirls of an ember-like glowing resinous red brume. Therein at last she warmly embraces me. What decadent rapture! What deep delight beckons! What a heady secret and fleshy surprise! Decidedly fine French indeed, whilst kissing the Orient within. Undoubtedly enrapturing on the right skin. And I, an uncultured peasant in her posh presence, find Pd’H almost too cosmopolitan & plushly polished to carry off in the end! Yet i’m drawn back to journey her again and again. ★★★★☆

Mmmm!!!! I like this! So sophisticated and elegant! It smells like a true lady! Leather notes are very strong here. AFter a while all I smell is good leather and I'm not even a fan of leathery scents! Many Hermes don't work well on my skin. They are beautiful fragrances but not always suitable to my chemistry. I could test Parfum d'Hermes in a old perfumery shop where they have all the big ones from the past and I was enchanted! I don't really see the difference between this one and Rouge which I also like. This is warm, enveloping, ultra-class, full of nuances and very feminine. Nothing to do with latest flat scents. It could be a little difficult to sport around, but so deeply satisfying! I see a beautiful, elegant young lady all dressed in design clothes in the style of Grace Kelly when I smell Parfum d'Hermes. Sophisticated is the word and at the same time there is an approachable feeling in this scent. Distant but warm. The staying power is very good and the bottle is pure class too!

A classy fragrance, somehow waxy in it's texture in the opening. It reminds me a little of Chamade (Parfum de Toilette that I used to have) because of it's dense and slightly oily character. I smell mainly myrrh, an aromatic rose, a lot of ylang ylang and sandalwood. But as in all classic fragrances there is such a myriad of notes in here that together forms this elegant beauty. It is slightly oldfashioned and I wonder if I would wear it if I had a bottle? I think that I will stick with my samples of parfums d'Hermes and Rouge. At least until they both are finished.

i have a vintage mini of this one. it opens with lots of aldehydes, incense, myrrh, hyacinth and galbanum...then rose quickly hits my nostrils. it's very floral, earthy and slightly animalic. something here turns a little sour on me, i think it's the rose and galbanum. after awhile the sandalwood and ylang ylang bloom and then this is gorgeous. a creamy floral over an incense haze with woods. so pretty.

Crisp, zesty citrus and aldehydes; strong at first but soon enough it's true beauty emerges. Kinda like this one. It's different. Roses with incense and myrrh are wrapped well together, giving smoky rose and resins aura that smells so good! The fragrance is a thing of beauty. Long lasting and notch up heavy!

Love at fist whiff. How I wish I had met this particular Hermes sooner. A vivid scent which stands out in a crowd, never minding what time, nor age anyone is living in. Classy, crisp, yet quite velvety, like a legendary beauty. Edit 2nd of sept. '12 Lutens Fleurs d'Oranger is a relative

Very classic. Smells like a fancy shampoo, but not in a bad way. Not my style but I appreciate the perfumery here. 5.5/10

I have an 80's vintage bottle 100ml edt which I have only used 1/5th of. The first notes I notice are Amber and Bergamot, I like the scent, it dries down to a light powder. The florals blend together very well with Ylang Ylang and Rose being the most noticeable.