Lustre

I have only tested this fragrance once so far, and maybe I'll return to add impressions after getting to know it better. However, I do want to give my first impressions now, some 9-10 hours after trying it. Today has been an unusually hot day where I live, some 30°C, and I tried four Hiram Green fragrances. Maybe it was not the best weather for Slowdive and Dilettante, but I quite enjoyed both Arbolé Arbolé (even though it is not listed as a summer scent here on Fragrantica) and this one. What to say? Well, I have a difficult relationship with roses, and I'm working on it. Therefore, it was a happy surprise to me that I didn't immediately dismiss this one, but right from the start felt that hey, this just might be a rose I could be buddies with. To me, the citrus is almost as strong as the rose. Not to make it a typically citrus scent, but it's giving the rose a run for it's money from spritz to dry down, never letting the rose reign suprem. Unlike for christianne1, this is not a pink rose for me, but just like the juice it doesn't have a colour, it is pure light. It's just too blinding to call it a colour. Yes, that's it – this scent is a ray of citrusy rose light and it lifts the spirit even on the first really hot day of the summer, where even in a country of sun starved sun worshipers, people are looking a bit wilted and feverishly asking for ice coffees in the cafés. Now, I haven't completely grasped colognes, so I'm not saying that this technically is a cologne. But if by cologne is meant the citrusy fragrance that you reach for on hot days, the better to endure the heat, then I would suggest this at least is a cologne-ish scent. Very fresh with the citrus, and rounded off by the rose. Backed up from the chorus by a kind of honeylike sweetness, which I'm guessing comes from the olibanum (and maybe also from the rose itself?). Very much looking forward to sampling this one again. For now, to my positive surprise, this is definitely a strong like. The more I think back on my busy, sweltering hot day, the stronger. But could it also be a love further down the line? Well, this just might be my first rose love in the making. I think I need to smell it in some colder weather as well, because we actually don't have many hot days like this one, to few a year to warrant a full bottle. I think I'm leaning towards a FB, or at least at hefty decant, if this gives me the same shiny, bright feeling at 20°C, as at 30°C. :) tl; dr Rose sceptic liking this far more than I thought. If as good in cooler summer days as in hot, full bottle might be on the horizon. - - - - Edit (2022-01-22): Oh, and I actually did buy it, last summer. It did turn into a love, and I actually think Lustre opened the door for rose scents for me. Not that I love them all now, but fragrances where rose are prominently featured, used to turn me off a scent. Now it’s often a plus. Alas, Lustre really is best in really hot weather on me, and as I live in a northern country, I mostly reach for other lovely fragrances from my collection in milder/cooler weather, so it doesn’t get much exercise. I do really love it, though. After having written the edit, I thought of taking it out for a test run today, in -3°C. After a couple of hours, I can say this is such a lovely pick me up in the cold. Some softer notes (not quite powdery, but along those lines), but still bright, light and invigorating. I will definitely wear this in cold weather again!

My oh my. A little background: I tried a few of Hiram's fragrances some time ago and found them feminine, gave them to my girlfriend, and Slowdive became one of her favorites, and one of my favorites on her. Then I tried Hyde, and I loved it for myself. So I was looking forward to trying this new one, especially since I've been in a rose mood in late spring, kicked off by the inexplicably amazing Musc Noble by Guerlain, which is going to be very hard to beat. So I figured I'd get Hiram's take on rose. First impression (on skin): Rotting flowers and fruit. Kind of gross, actually. Organic rot. I know he likes to use natural ingredients, and I was wondering if maybe my sample had turned or something. Not pleasant. And then it was almost like a Benjamin Button experience wherein the flowers and fruit became younger and more fresh and alive over time. A unique experience for me. One thing I've learned is to never trust my first impression of a fragrance. I only smell that first smell once, and then it's gone forever, no matter how many times I smell that fragrance. It's a brain thing. Now when I smell Lustre, I'm always going to smell fresh and REAL flowers and fruit, with a little bit of decay, and they're all quite sublime together, in the strict sense. This is organic flowers with a noticeable citrus background that bolsters and spotlights the main flower role. It's so real that you can smell the decay of some neighboring petals that didn't make it. There's life and death here in a realistic way, and with obvious quality of materials and a knack for artistry. To be sure, this is not your average, ubiquitous, red Turkish-ish rose. I don't recognize this rose, although I'm sure some do. It's certainly a hyper-realistic rose-ish flower of a quality I have never before experienced in a fragrance, and it's astounding. I can't really call this one strictly feminine, either, although it leans that way. It has a bit of an edge to it that pulls it towards center, aided, seemingly, by citrus, and maybe other things I don't know enough about. But yeah, it's quite soft and gentle, with a philosophical narrative that keeps it from being a weakling. Astonishing, really, as an experience. I don't know how much I'd wear this as a guy who likes darker, heavier stuff (like Hyde), but this certainly gives other houses a desperate run for their money. Josh Slumberhouse should probably take some notes. Kurkdjian should probably look for new work altogether. Creed might end up in department stores where it really belongs. And you indie people really need to step up your game.

If rose could be called indolic, this would be the perfect representation of an indolic rose - standing out in this overdone category as a very original take. Intense - 1000s slightly wilted yet sublimely velvety dark red blossoms covering the floor of the roseoil factory in Bulgarian hills... yes, I can definitely stand by the image as I've carried this scent experience with me for 15 years after visiting described factory. If you're afraid the intensity of photorealistic florals just after their prime when the smell the strongest and can't stand the vegetal almost resinous and piney touch, this scent is not for you. But if you're forever on the hunt for rose that, without trying too hard to be pretty, is effortlessly complete in its wild gorgeousness, this is for you. Like someone said below, the rose here represents both life and death. There is a drama tic twist in this story. During the drydown, I smell cooled down oversaturated bergamot tea - an undescript oily citrus peel note that makes even slight wetness of the scent come across as fragrant. It balances well the velvetiness of rose petals and water-like cool depth of olibanum. This is a true masterpiece, well performing, full of meaning of life and develops forever on the skin. Not for the weak wearers, synthetic "jammy" rose fans or for too casual events. p.s. The only Hiram I've tried before is Moon Bloom, and I can see the similar brush strokes in the sense that both florals are opulent courageous and really standout in their respective categories.

This was an easy love for me, but I understand my preferences aren't necessarily mainstream. Imagine a bright yellow Bulgarian rose. Now if the rose was scented, it would smell like Lustre. The citrus and olibanum is very present in the opening to create burst and sparkle, and if you are here yearning for a "pure" silky musky rosewater scent you'll likely be disappointed with the "metalic" tinge of citrus and olibanum oil. I really love this artistic opening though and even better the scent develops into a very pure Bulgarian rose on my skin, with just the sheerest amount of orris in place of conventional musk to support the dewy rose heart. I'm not an easy rose fan as many could turn too floral and musky on me, but this, this remains bright throughout its development and just brings me pure joy. The sillage is soft and longevity mediocre at best, but this is judging from dabber application using a wand. My conclusion is Lustre requires the right skin chemistry to shine, so if one is sampling do try it on skin and give it some time. For a natural rose scent I can't ask for more. It's really perfect for me.

I have been wearing 3 sprays from a sample I received today and I am really surprised this is not rated higher. The initial spray is slightly acid/sharp but this lasts for a few seconds and is then replaced by a very realistic beautiful rose. This rose is alive and green and on the lines of Sa Majeste la rose by Serge Lutens but more wearable/ dialed down in comparison (a good thing for me) and progresses slowly into a lovely base where you can get the resinous olibanum carrying the rose. Lasting power is very good and 6 hours later I can still smell it around myself, I don’t think it has a massive projection. I work in a hospital and that is again, a plus for me. Already thinking about a full bottle. Edit 10/02/2020 so I could not resist and bought a bottle. It’s my favourite pure rose at the moment. Not headache inducing, not too loud or suffocating or screechy as other roses can be on me. But still a remarkable lasting power.