Philtre

Philtre opens with a lovely familiar chord from classic perfume – rounded, resinous, liquored, warm-spicy. Think Youth-Dew, maybe? It gets spicier by the second and I love it more and more. It’s not much like other carnation perfumes (the classic dusty-creamy Bellodgia or its streamlined modern equivalent Vitriol D'Oeillet). Carnation-centric perfumes are often a dusty, terra-cotta hue, spicy with the cloves-like scent of eugenol but far softer and tamer than actual spices. Philtre is much deeper and richer, more like an actual noseful of whole cloves, yet smoothed and polished with mellow resins and a subtle, rose-inflected floral aura. It really feels like classic perfumery, only simpler and more vivid. Nothing is musty or dusty; it’s all warm rosy-brown glow. Everybody always remarks on how Hiram Green pulls off “all-natural” perfumes that do things natural plant extracts shouldn’t be able to. All-natural scents tend to be heavy and brick-like, since air and polish come from synthetics. But Hiram Green’s perfumes aren’t typical indie perfumery – they’re smooth, refined throwbacks to the Belle Epoque era of perfumery, the time of Caron and Guerlain, which was characterized by the invention of the first artificial aromachemicals to blend with natural extracts. How does Hiram Green do it? By rules-lawyering! An aromachemical produced by genetically engineered yeast is technically “natural” since it comes from an organism. It’s a stupidly expensive way to produce something you could have just made in a lab, but it allows you to call your perfume “all natural” while including the whole range of the perfumer’s pallette. It’s not magic; it’s microbes! Anyhow, however they made it, Philtre smells amazing. It overlaps a lot with Shangri-La (another warm spiced Hiram Green floral) only Shangri-La has a mellow peach note reminiscent of Mitsuoko, while Philtre is more intensely spicy. They’re all fantastic.

For Hiram Green to possess the alchemy to create this philtre out of purely natural ingredients is nothing short of a phenomenon. The carnation accord in perfume, one of my favorites of them all, is one that confounds noses in the 21st century, mostly because the idea of scented carnations is lost on modernity. There are so few Malmaison carnation varieties that still exist today, and a rare few have the opportunity of encountering them. Looking more like ruffled roses, these flowers, cultivated from the tree carnation, were the most fragrant of the dianthus family, and were all the rage in the Belle epoque of the late 19th-early 20th century. They, and the beloved Sweet William, were inspirations for the legendary "oeillet" accord that would come to prominence in perfumery through classics such as Caron Bellodgia, Coty L'Origan, and later in its resurgence with YSL Opium and Estee Lauder Cinnabar. In Green's Philtre, we have an arguably imposing return to form when it comes to carnation, but I find it absolutely staggering in its beauty. It's bold yet limpid, with studied outlines of snapped green stems and a backdrop of floral silhouettes that amplify its beauty. A little rosiness and white floral tint is evident, and it only flatters the illustration of this "single red carnation," as Green asserts in his synopsis of Philtre. This is, especially in its heart, honestly what I had expected Caron Poivre to be like when I first smelled a sample (and was frankly a bit let down by how two-dimensional it ended up feeling). The dry down is a granular and plaintive experience, resins and vanilla pulling the remnants of the preceding beauty close to the skin, clinging and persistent: another remarkable feat for a natural perfume. It's rapturously old-fashioned and precious for these times, and that's why I absolutely, positively adore it.

This potion does for me what it says it’s going to do. I’m swooning with love and affection. The opening is the electric tingle of skin-on-skin when you’re touched by someone you’ve fallen for. Bright and sparkling greens, jasmine, and peppercorns give a mentholated facet to the bright and citrusy jasmine. I smiled with joy and instant attraction. When the electric tingle and the knot in your stomach subsides, Philtre presents an absolutely beautiful clove and carnation heart. The clove is spicy and woody but very demur, well rounded, and soft thanks to the gently heady carnation. Vanilla slowly blooms at the base. Here the affection is not electric, it’s austere yet warm, soft, and inviting. The blend in this composition is exceptional; it is so seamless and dialed-in just right. Some are going to bemoan the longevity, but that’s a cost of using 100% natural isolates. However, the benefit of using those materials is a photorealism that is very magnetic and truly evocative. I don’t have much to say about Philtre, it speaks well enough on its own. Love it.

Instant knockout - a thick, bushy, stem-to-stamen flowershop carnation, followed by a resin+clove marriage that does in fact feel like love. The carnation is boosted by a jasmine that doesn't totally fade into the background, but adds just enough floral depth without moving into white-floral territory and overtaking the star of the show. The resins are thickened by vanilla but keep an even balance of sweet and spicy - this is maybe too specific but something about the accord here makes me think of that almost buggy smell you get from a Belgian Tripel, but here it's warm and mysterious, whereas in the beer it's my least favorite part of that genre. In any case it's pure alchemy, materials like carnation and clove you already know but presented here in an entirely new light. It's surprising and invigorating, and one of the most original recent releases I've tried.

Hiram Green finally got me. I admire this perfumer's work and enjoy several of his creations, but I have not felt compelled to purchase one until now. Real heirloom carnations are one of my absolute favorite smells in the world, and it is exceedingly rare to find an authentic recreation in perfumery. In Philtre an extremely realistic nose-to-blossom carnation is the strong backbone of the blend. I live in an inhospitable climate for growing them, so this fills the void of their absence. My bottle is on the way. P.S. - I don't get funeral associations at all- I associate that more with white lilies, chrysanthemums and roses. Are carnations known as a funeral flower? Maybe it's a regional thing?

Philtre is a pleasant surprise in the set of samples I bought from Hiram Green. It's the first Woody Spicy scent I've tried that didn't strike me as too masculine. The floral notes lend enough sweetness to take the edge off the sharper notes. The green notes are probably acting as the bridge between them that I couldn't identify at first. This definitely works for someone who likes unisex to feminine scents, and is worth a try if you like unisex to masculine scents, too.

Carnations hold a special little place in my heart (such is the case with many people who were born in the 80's in soviet union). It's so nostalgic... I remember how strongly carnations smelled in my childhood. Here, in the USA they don't smell pretty much at all. It's kind of sad that vast majority of young people will never get the experience of smelling the real thing. Philtre is the absolute best impression of this beautiful but modest flower.

The opening isn't great--it seems too much like a thin and old-fashioned carnation fragrance from my grandmother's vanity. But then it very quickly enhances itself and it becomes a glorious three-dimensional carnation accord that feels so real and complex. The opening minutes get only a "meh" from me, but after that I absolutely love this--it's becomes of the finest new florals I've smelled in years. It also has excellent sillage and longevity.

This perfume is the best plan B for those who are missing Caron Poivre and Caron Coup de Fouet. Proud owner and wearer of both, I cannot think of anything else and to be honest I am happy that I can find the reincarnation of both in this buyable perfume. Fantastic drydown of pepper and cloves. I only wish that the projection was better (but Caron's both perfumes mentioned do not project much either).

Testing my sample; a large vase of fully bloomed photorealistic carnations. Very spicy and heady, there's some jasmine and rose in the backdrop, like a smaller vase of those flowers hovering nearby. Cool weather appropriate, I'd spray this on scarf so it stays right under my nose all day. I'd consider a full bottle for this.

The clove spices up the whole concoction! It starts smelling like Zhonghua toothpaste, which is a Chinese brand boasting traditional medicine recipe. It is because of clove. Then it smoothens into a floral woody scent, but the clove persists. So beautiful! It also lasts easily 4 hours on skin and projects arm length.

I think this perfume is the standout of the house. Warm, spicy, and realistic—a red carnation on a pink lapel. I find this behaves consistently from opening to dry-down. Greenness is lurking but does not dominate. Exquisite, I am wearing it all the time this January in the snow.

This is unbelievably beautiful to me. It has lasted all day and remained potent in its floral dreaminess. The bright crisp carnation is supported by the spiced and vanilla and I can't get enough of it. If love potions existed, this would be it.

This opens with a scorching blast of Clove and pepper, and then reveals a green, flower-shop Carnation. It's lovely and unique.

I love this so much. It smells like the walk-in refrigerator at a flower store. Marvelous, and definitely FBW for me.

If you love carnation fragrances, this is mandatory. period. references: Fiore di Bellagio En Avion

Hiram Green based his latest perfume – Philtre, as in love potion – around carnation, a flower which exudes spicy scents. Obviously, the carnations we buy from florists don't exude anything, but the aromas of certain species are marvelous, even if they are, for many, associated with a bygone era. The ancient Greeks called this flower “Dianthos”, which means “flower of the Gods”, or “divine flower”. When you spray Philtre, you immediately detect a complex floral explosion. Once this initial effect has somewhat dissipated, a peppery note stings the nose for a few moments as it approaches the skin where the perfume was applied. The naturally peppery scent of carnation has obviously been accentuated by black pepper extract. An animal note is also noticeable in the background. Maybe it as to do with indole... Subsequently, the typical scent of carnation flower emerges; a scent very close to that of cloves and wallflower. What gives these plants this scent is eugenol; an aromatic compound that is also found in cinnamon and allspice, among others. In Philtre, this spicy accent is subtly modulated by fine green notes that evoke the stems of the plant. But the alchemical beauty of Philtre lies in the skillful dosage of the characteristic note of clove with notes of rose and jasmine, giving the perfume a convincing realism. I don't know if Green intended to faithfully recreate the scent of carnation, but it's pretty well done. And addictive. At the stage of the heart notes in the olfactory development of the fragrance, I can't help but sniff my forearm and enjoy this aesthetic effect. Slowly, the floral and spicy notes subside, and they are eventually softened by a skillful blend of resin and atypical vanilla; a concoction that we recognize from Hiram Green, and that we find in another of his perfumes with disturbing accents: Moon Bloom. We also discern the density of his style, a density which is undoubtedly related to the fact that the designer only works with natural ingredients. Philtre will probably not please everyone. Depending on one's personal references, one may find it too old-fashioned, too medicinal, or even too funerary, as other people have mentioned below. But this all suits me.

Break out the (faux) mink stoles and velvet dresses. Spicy, vintage green floral. I'm unsure why Fragrantica has this labeled as a warm floral in the pyramid. It's spicy as hell, but the green, watery notes and Carnation impart a cool freshly crushed stems & petals all the way through. I really like Vivacious by Hiram Green, and was curious how this one would differ since Vivacious contains a LOT of carnation. I can vaguely understand the 'funeral home' smell others noted but much like calling a fragrance 'grandma' it's insulting to the fragrance. Philtre has a distinctly Swedish, clean architecture, '60's mod twist. A vintage feel due to the opening of a huge carnation with cloves, but this doesn't come across as cheap air freshener which I associate with the funeral home comment. You've got to sit with this one. This is really well done, a Carnation like a Caron, or Mona di Orio which is also an amber floral, but Mona's has more violets, and ylang to it, juicier. This is sharp, clean and beautiful. Huge sillage, tons of longevity, and ebbs from sweet to green to amber/resins.

Quite lovely this one. It's a cozy, sweet, and cinnamon-like/spicy, resinous blend that revolves around a strong, starchy carnation, laced with creamy vanilla, suede, and cloves. It's relatively simple, but it has lasting power for sure - at least on me. The carnation here is rich and full-bodied, and I found it reminiscent of Roos & Roos' White Ballad and Caron’s Tabac Blond, rather than the soapy variety found in Serge Lutens’ Vitriol d’Oeillet. As it dries down, it does lose a bit of its complexity and edges into a sweeter, somewhat flatter territory, which is common for most of Hiram Green's creations, but it still feels satisfying and wearable. It also became a tad bit more aggressive, in the way how natural carnation absolute can sometimes be. I’m not completely enamored with it, but it is definitely one I’d wear. I also like the name a lot.

Philtre feels like the male counterpart to Caron bellogia. I had that perfume in the 90s and used my bottle. I wish I had it back. It was a gorgeous fragrance. Shame it was discontinued and I doubt the new version is anything like the past version. Philtre much more fiery and less powdery and feminine. Very hot and spicy. Like a cauldron bubbling over with a potion. Smells better on skin than on clothes IMO. Softens and smooths out the rough edges on skin. This sample will be going to my husband. I find it leans male for my personal taste but it is a lovely carnation fragrance. Edit I should actually classify this fragrance as unisex. When it dries down on skin it makes you smell like an actual carnation. Carnations remind me of highschool and I adore them.

Philtre is a gorgeous green-stemmy carnation, spicy and fresh and robust. Cloves and pepper are present to accent the spicy floral, but the oozing freshy snapped green stems really bring a vibrancy to this carnation that makes it feel grounded in reality, as if we're smelling a flower in life. While verdant, Philtre is still dense and warm, the resins making a stronger impression as it wears, and I think if you like noticeable fragrances with a bit of a cloud, you could transition this through most seasons. I like the focus on the green aspects of the flower, carnations often lean so spicy that it feels like the floralcy gets lost, whereas this fragrance definitely feels like a spicy floral. Nicely done.

A strong carnation scent through and through. It’s as if you’ve stepped into a florist’s shop and a cluster of red carnations; layered, frilled, beautifully textured; sits before you. You lean in to smell them, and that exact, spicy-floral warmth rises up. There’s a touch of spice woven in, adding color and giving the whole composition a slightly nostalgic aura. Softly sweet, gentle, and entirely floral; a little slice of a flower heaven... Tag(s): carnation bomb, indolic, spicy, nostalgic

One of the greats from the house A testament to the legendary fragrances of the past that were carnation heavy I really enjoyed wearing it Both the cloves and the carnation are what stood out to me What I couldn’t understand is I felt an ambery like hue that was leading the whole process throughout it’s lifecycle Maybe it’s the resins mentioned in the pyramid above I’m sure there is amber in this which made it a lot better IMO Performance was good A thumbs up to Hiram Green

I smell green, spicy cloves with a hint of beer wort, abstract flowers with ylang-ylang. The end is not confectionery, but perfumery unsweetened vanilla. The main thing is that the carnation in it is completely different from the festive political retro carnation. This is an intelligent natural scent, true unisex. Good for everyday use and as aromatherapy. It seems to me that this scent of detachment from sex is probably what will intrigue erotomaniacs.

I was not sure how does carnation smells like.After spending some time it’s very familiar now.Beautiful flower.It does have a vintage vibe.You will get full blast of peppers and cloves upfront.Later it softs into beautiful carnation and vanilla with light spicy undertones.Blending skill is incredible.If you looking for photo realistic vintage carnation perfume look no further.

I love a carnation scent, i just dont understand why cloves and/or eugenol were added in such a large quantity. let the eugenol come naturally from the carnation and its more balanced. I dont want to smell like clove, and that's what most people will identify with here.

Sometimes the green stem can be too intense & unbearable during the middle, otherwise a rich scent with a bright, optimistic, & spicy opening and a deep romantic dry-down.

smells like a carnation flower from stem to petal, very realistic and simply stunning

Clove and freshly ground spices dominate the opening. As it warms on the skin, jasmine and resinous amber start to unfold—and that combination pretty much carries through the entire wear. After about an hour, it transforms into a creamy chai scent that’s wonderfully cozy. Is that you, vanilla? I’ve tried Hiram Green’s Vivacious, where I can clearly smell the carnation flowers. In Philtre, however, I get the stems—greener, earthier, a bit more grounded. If Vivacious is the elegant, well-dressed cousin, Philtre is the quiet, eclectic one who works at a chai tea specialty shop and sells handmade local goods at the counter. All organic and fair-trade, FYI. The scent sits close to the skin and lasts about 4–6 hours. While it’s not my personal favorite from Hiram Green, I’m still amazed by the uniqueness of his work—each bottle offers such a distinct and memorable experience.

Sigh...damnit. I want to love this fragrance. I admire and respect Hiram Green’s work (Hyde and Slowdive are absolute stunners). The spirt of this fragrance, the story, the image it brings to mind...such a wonderful idea. ...and it almost works. Almost. I *know* that there are lovely spices in here. I can detect them on a deep inhale up close, and as the fragrance dries down, their emergence from under the florals is a welcome surprise. But I have to agree with the funeral home aesthetic. It’s not oppressive by any means, but wow...it’s a LOT for the first few hours. If the floral/spice balance could only be there from the get-go, I think this would be a beautiful option for fall, winter, and cool spring. I still have a little left from my sample, so I’ll let it sit until the fall - maybe some maturation will help.

The carnation, indolic jasmine and cloves are VERY strong in this one. I don't get any vanilla at all. Honestly I was hoping for something more complex and ground-breaking based on the reviews, but it just smells like a classic chypre vintage perfume that grandmas like to wear, not that it's a bad thing. Really reminds me of Aromatics Elixir by Clinique. I appreciate this perfume but it's too cloyingly floral for my taste :(

This is a slightly spicy carnation reminiscent, just slightly of cinnamon hearts. I love it as it also reminds me of an old favourite Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood. This is a modern fragrance but has a romantic & nostalgic heart. I love most of what Hiram Green produces & this is a solid release IMO. Full bottle worthy.

A potion, maybe but more like a voodoo death spell than anything I'd associate with love. Carnation and clove. I also get the slight urine impression at first. I'm thinking more morgue than funeral home.

Smells 1:1 like a funeral wreath with something animalic/pissy in the back

i got a strange dirty kittylitter scent from this

Have I gotten a bad batch or something? I get overwhelming powder and the rotten stink of moldy, dead lillies. Horrible.

I had the honor of speaking with Hiram at the launch and limited world tour associated with this fragrance — and found myself taken not just by the beauty of this particular fragrance but by the singular passion that drives his exploration of natural materials in all releases from his house. I generally find quote-unquote “natural perfumery” to be more of a tagline for marketing than a coherent genre of smell, but here, Green’s creations not only speak to the paired-down absolutes that constitute a fragrance oil but also the photorealistic essences of delights from the natural world. I have been a longtime devotee of classics from his line, like the narcotic honey tobacco Slowdive, and the snarling leather birch tar creature Hyde — but Philtre surprised me in a way I was not expecting a Hiram Green to be able to do. This is Green’s most dated composition, in a way that feels delightfully thrilling. Centered around the lusty and romantic historical associations of the carnation flower, this perfume spotlights a smell you would be hard-pressed to find in many contemporary releases. I am personally most familiar with carnation in vintage-inspired Oriza L. Legrand’s Oeillet Louis XV: a prim and proper sheer powder recognizing the historic brand’s past as perfumers to the royal court. To modern audiences, carnation is not a smell typically associated with lust, but in the twentieth century, this was downright salacious. Powdery and peppery, silky and spicy, it embodies many contrasts and speaks most recognizably to ‘70s spicebombs and the note it is most often paired alongside: clove. Green follows suit, but the clove here is not overwhelmingly sweaty but rather far more green and stemmy. It is as if a late-century Austin Powers-type groovy conversation den had been transplanted into a countryside meadow. I think of carnations’ history in the Belle Époque‚ the fad-like frenzy around donning them on lapels and over the nose, and Oscar Wilde’s own affinity for the pin-like bloom. This is a decisively old-fashioned perfume but one that does not apologize for its timeless sensibilities. To the untrained nose, a blend of sticky resins, autumnal cinnamon, and vague florals is enough to charm a hapless witness over to the side of true glamour and flamboyance.

Philtre Hiram Green (USD 150, blind-buy) A borderline of Niche, feels almost Indy. I think if you step further than this, is an Artisan. Only fragrance so far that represents Carnation as a flower. Carnation solifores. Ruby Red Bright and Sparkling. Spicy and Flaming. It's charming - Carnation Absolute 0.5% perhaps. I love carnation. I don't know why. But, assurance carnation scent I journeyed so far. it is unique and only one in genre. It is not replica, it is not perfumer carnation. It is a bloomed carnation as you incarnation carnation itself. Whatever, I don't think it an end quest to Carnation. Too beautiful, perhaps? but his carnation is up there. High hierarchy. It's hard to beat and I think this is the best he can offer. ~~~~~ Extension one on July 01, 2025 I wear Philtre for a few time already. 3-4 wears perhaps. and I believe this is very nice idea. of Uterlize the Mellis amber accord in fragrance. In the modern way. Apart, carnation that lead the note. The green amber resin in base is really enjoyable. I don't wear Philtre for Charming. It goes brown and decay. Than typical people to understand but It is my chill pleasure. Before the bed as it lighter than niche. it is easier to enjoy. On a lighter day. A Idea to buy a back up bottle a few month ago.. It kind of nice. actually. You know, coming handy.

sharp spiky cloves opening with a strong vintage feel, outputting and overwhelming. a creamy rose-vanilla touch invites us to the base while rounding and smoothing out the composition but just enough to cover all that initial spice sharpness. and I like how beautifully clove pairs with carnation, but this particular note is too heavy and strong for my taste here. the masterfully created and indeed outstanding carnation everyone praises only came out at the drydown which is unfortunate.. I was hoping to enjoy it for a bit longer. was worth the wait though.

Philtre is a very realistic carnation with almost no spices. It settles into a sweet white flower base. At the base I find Moon Bloom, Tryst and Philtre to be relatively similar. They all share a soft and warm floral feel. I have heard carnation considered old fashioned. To me it did not feel old fashioned at all. A true carnation note is so rare to find among typical designer fragrances today. So far I really enjoy my sample and I consider buying a full bottle. I have never encountered anything similar.

It is a warm spicy carnation flower that you could smell all day. Beautiful, long-lasting, and full-bodied. The undercurrent of rose-jasmine-resin that is recognizable from Arcadia is immediately noticeable to me - but this is a unique composition that is greener in comparison to Arcadia's woodiness. It is largely floral and warm-spicy to me, with fresh stems, but something almost creamy lingers in the background - perhaps this is the vanilla. You could really believe that this is a love potion.

A carnation spice bomb! First of all it reminds me of a 'medicinal sweet ' we had when I was a kid in 60s Lancashire called 'Cough Candy'. Nice nostalgia but a bit overwhelming. Possible association with American 'Red Hot' cinnamon candy. It calms down into more of a floral arrangement when green notes emerge but no obvious rose. It's all eventually smoothed out by the vanillla. Not sure if I like it enough to buy but it's so unusual it's worth consideration.

This immediately opens with a pungent honey and spiced animalic feel. It settles down to a less intense feel. Carnation is clove and spicy like, this seems to lean more into the spiced aspect than floral. I can not get over the honey feel that it gives me. Perhaps the mixture of the spice, floral, and green cahracteristic give that feel to it. As it dries down further it becomes an opulent carnation with is rich and resinous

A very impressive carnation, close to the real thing but overdosed so that it produces a metallic edge that reminds me of vintage Rive Gauche. I like this a lot but it's probably a bit strong-floral for me. Edit: yes, too strong - it's very piercing now and I'm going to have to wash it off. Pity - I love Slowdive and Shangri La, and this is equally high-quality.

First strong impression, my dentist’s mouthwash. After a while, a faint smell of what remains in the air in church after a funeral. Mr Green, this can be natural and organic as you like, but it doesn’t hit the mark. A big no for me

This smells like 20 dads in a bottle. A bit janky and too much carnation. Smells like a funeral home