Oud

Don't let the name fool you because behind this fragrance lies one of the finest natural and medicinal patchouli (in the vein of Santa Maria Novella and Profumi di Firenze). Not surprising, given the recent history of this house (formerly Jehanne Rigaud and Les Néréides), which has made a name for itself with its patchoulis (notably Patchouli Antique). Fragrantica indicates metallic accords; I don't perceive them. What I do perceive is a very natural, fresh patchouli. It's diametrically opposed to gourmand patchoulis. Moreover, its color is not amber but crystalline. My impression is that the base of this fragrance is an concentrated essence of patchouli which, on encountering an acetone of some kind (presumably originally the "metallic" accord), would have gained wings, giving it its unusual freshness and projection. Mind you, I'm talking about acetone, not alcohol! Hence the very natural notes of a woody, floral patchouli. This strong fresh patchouli cut very well in the cold (I actually wearing it) ! Perfect for fall and winter ! If various woods come into play (oud, cedar, guaiac, cashmere), it's only to crown the patchouli in his oakmoss mantel. So there's no "coup d'état" in this composition: it's patchouli that is crowned emperor of the forests (as it should be).