Bohemia

I think the single biggest mistake I made with the House of Gray is to purchase three different samples at once. I've had them for a while, and opened them immediately when I received them, and they all knocked my socks off with their exemplary creativity. Serious sensory overload, like going to a rock concert, then the opera, then jumping out of an airplane with a parachute all in the same weekend. Each fragrance deserves your undivided attention to truly appreciate the artistry because they are hyperreal, full, complex, intense, uniquely beautiful, but full of unpretentious composure. *** Bohemia. With the name, and perhaps with my own presuppositions, I expected something hippyish, patchouli-ish, smoky, trippy, and herbal. I got the herbal part right. And it's no surprise with Elizabeth Rose, the creative director behind this wonder, having a background in herbal medicine. This fragrance is a reflection of her spiritual appreciation for botanical materials and the respect she has for them to glow without being loud or clashing in a melange of notes. The basil, marjoram, thyme, coriander, and rosemary are soft like a dreamy miasm with the whisper that powdery rose brings. Multi-dimensional facets are brought with a deft balance of animal purrs. I'm reminded of plush animal hides and comforting mother-tiger bellies. The civet and caraway are in perfect balance — just enough kink to be sensual while remaining poised. I've come close to buying a FB of Ma Bete from Eris Parfums, but still felt that for me personally, it lacked something beyond its wonderfully wild profile. Bohemia completes my fantasy. Apple blossom, I don't know that I've actually smelled one although I've picked plenty of apples. There is a freshness to the floral accord that brings the rose powder some luminance and modernity. Silver pine with light resiny joy perhaps. I love the gentle meditative nod of the opoponax and myrrh. I daresay that the birch is the sweet variety, not smoky and bitter like tar. Loving the cedar too. It brings wooded allure while still being dreamy and slightly out of focus. Aromatic, complex without being complicated, yet culminating into an easy-wearing clean veil of delicate herbs and flowers. There's a humanity about this scent too that makes me want to wear it naked in bed. As it wears on my skin over the hours, it becomes slightly salty and even more alluring. I think this would make a fascinating skin scent for a man too. "Brava!" House of Gray for this fresh perspective with archetypical genes.

Edit: recalls the fragrances Pyxis by Scents of Time, and Layebana by House of Grey. Without looking at the notes, from initial application to 5 seconds: Beautiful floral bouquet that then morphs (with no introduction) into a floral bouquet dropped into a cigarette graveyard (ashtray). That's my initial impression of this fragrance. Chances are, had I worn this around someone who smokes, I would have been invited to join them on a 'smoke break", as I could easily appear to smell like a kindred spirit. Now I will take a gander at the notes . . . ok, . . . floral bouquet dropped into a cigarette graveyard is the "balsamic smokiness"??? OK, I can get with that. The florals don't get down and dirty in the ash, sorry, smokiness, only taking a leisurely stroll through the smoky fog of balsamic woodsmoke. I prefer that interpretation better. I can detect the woodiness, whether from birch or cedar, I cannot tell, I cannot say I have smelled apple blossoms along with balsam smoke, so that just chokes out any apple blossoms that may have been present in the top notes. This fragrance stays linear for a good while, perhaps all the way through to the dry down. It's been about 15 minutes since the initial application and since the first 5 seconds, nothings changed about this scent. Stays linear. So . . . . if you like ashy flowers, or 'balsamic smokiness', this one is worth a shot. I would caution not to blind buy, but sample first. I happen to like this one a lot, balsam smokiness/floral ashtray and all. Unisex? I would say yes. Silliage? Moderate to close to skin, depending on whether you douse of dab. Projection? not sure. . . how close do people get into your personal space would determine that. BTW . . this scent's feral base DOES NOT give me, nor lend me a "...raw, vulnerable feeling . . .". This is a scent to own, not be owned by. One that can be easily tamed by the right person.

The apple blossom opening to Bohemia is lovely. The civet adds a musky, earthy backdrop to the aeromatic herbal heart and pine forests as a fond hommage to old Bohemia itself. My experience with this is musky herbal spices with a woody undertone. The myrrh adds a bite but also a nod to the old ways present in some of the oldest fragrance formulations. I do detect a whisp of smokiness but never pick up the ashtray vibe as stated by a reviewer. Sometimes birch can give that smoky impression. The rose softens the heart and makes for an interesting moment. Auphorie's signature of seamless blending, thoughtful articulate storytelling is still present along with the perfectly modulated animalic ..so try this even if civet may scare you off in other modern formulations, Auphorie knows how to handle synthetic musks expertly. Longevity is average, sillage is close to arms length. A nice change up scent to your wardrobe and worthy for a modern Bohunk. A transportive trip courtesy of House of Gray. Sample reviewed from AveParfum.

House of Gray was recommended to me by an uber-discriminating Fragrantica member who thought Paradiscus was 'unexpectedly different'. High praise from her! All 3 first releases from this new house are dazzling. This is baroque beauty! 'Bohemien' is a French term describing both a nomadic people in the Czech Republic called Gypsies, and Parisian artists in the 19th century with their zealous pursuit of art and music. HoG's Bohemia celebrates this colorful heritage with authentic ingredients reflecting cultural/historical/ethnic roots amidst the collective effort of three vastly gifted makers. They are a burgeoning force in the perfume industry. Founder Elizabeth Rose works to ensure each scent be a "stand-alone work of art". Accomplished in no small part by her confederate composers - the ingeniously talented Eugene and Emyrs Au. Known for their "East meets West" house, Auphorie, they are masters of animalic notes and natural materials. Their skills shine in Bohemia's libertine weaving of concept and essence. The opening is spectacular. Spicy rose adorned with a host of dramatic supporting notes. As it dries down mini-transitions shift the emphasis, transporting you to worlds of awe. One minute you are Bridgette Bardot . . . backstage at an elaborate theater putting on copious powder, with roses filling your dressing room. The next, you are Anais Nin basking in carnal warmth as it caresses your skin - an Au specialty. You catch glimpses of an old-growth forest . . . from a moonlight rose garden where the air is brisk with earthy wonders. There are aromatic woods, sylvan powders, an herbal freshness, and sensual undercurrents. Complex and cosmopolitan, Bohemia wields extravagant charm. A voluptuous perfume experience that rivals anything out there.

This is well blended and comes off very natural. I am sensitive to chemicals and synthetics anymore, and this sits well on skin. I get the herbals and incense, but lacks smokiness to my nose. Men or women could pull this off, but may be more suited for a female. I would take this over typical summer scents any day. It's an intriguing series of notes and if it were my creation I would be proud of the outcome. I know very little about the house but this is definitely well blended. For me the basil stands out and may be what helps it lean unisex. Tad more civet could spike the intrigue, but I may just not be picking up on it as much as I would like. If basil is your thing this will be a very positive experience for sure

This is probably the most tranquil perfume that I’ve come across in a while. A homage to the bohemian lands and way of life. A spectacular opening with apple blossom and a spicy rose. The heart is all about herbs and civet. In the dry down I get some pine, woods and incense. It’s so seamlessly blended by the Auphorie brothers and hats off to Liz for her creative inputs in making this masterpiece come to life. It’s heart breaking to know that I can never source another bottle of this once I run out of it. This creation really spoke to me and I will surely cherish this bottle forever.