Sandalo Misore

The fussy fragrance connoisseur often appraises a sandalwood scent by how closely it approximates the profile of Mysore sandalwood. The oil from Santalum album trees in the Mysore region of Kamataka, India has long been considered the paragon of sandalwood oils. Now over-harvested to near extinction, it had, in as recently as 1996, accounted for nearly 70% of the world's sandalwood production. While the oil is still produced, there's a far smaller yield and it is far more costly than ever before. My own standards for a sandalwood accord in perfume are decidedly generous, and I have learned to appreciate Australian spicatum (Australian Sandalwood) and Santalum album grown in other regions. I consciously opt not to fetishize Mysore as the ideal: the consequences of overexploitation are nothing to glorify. Be that as it may, I must say that this lesser known item from the lovely I Profumi di Firenze reminds me so much of this aged Mysore sandalwood oil in my possession, with extra perfumed panache. It starts bright and sharp, grows sensuously oily and buttery, then eases into a heavenly heartwood dust. Could it be a well done Mysore "reconstruction"? Who knows. I just know it's one of the best sandalwood perfumes I've smelled.