L'Iris de Fath Eau de Parfum

I was pleased when Jacques Fath decided to release an EDP version of Iris de Fath, a recreation of the classic Iris Gris whose name was sold elsewhere a long time ago. The parfum is prohibitively expensive (although I tried it via the 4ml vial they thankfully made available for non-rich perfume enthusiasts like myself!), but this version is much more attainable without cutting many corners. While it is a slightly different scent, it certainly ticks the same boxes as the parfum, being an impressive example of an iris-dominant scent, high-quality and nicely put-together, with all notes serving to complement the iris at its heart. IdF opens with the powdery, grey orris that features prominently in the parfum. It is slightly more doughy here, more pastry than the yeasty bread quality normally associated with orris. The peach is more prominent here, adding sweet, juicy freshness. The violet emerges early on here, rounding out the orris with its green, floral quality. It remains wonderfully powdery. As it progresses, a sweet floral bouquet develops on my skin. Powdery rose and jasmine are evident, as in the parfum, but ylang ylang - a new note here - adds creamy sweetness, a nice development from the peach of the opening. Carnation adds warm, clove-like spice, complementing the iris nicely, but is more muted than in the parfum. The drydown is where the EDP really parts company with the parfum, composition-wise. Instead of the parfum's mossy chypre base, here tonka bean emerges, more Guerlinade than the Chanel-like parfum. Sweet and spicy, with woody nuances thanks to the vetiver, the drydown here also sets off the iris beautifully. It becomes musky as it fades, but remnants of iris last until then, wonderfully powdery until final fade. I love how well the iris lasts in both concentrations of IdF, the true backbone of this scent. Sillage and longevity are moderate - this projects better than the parfum, but doesn't last as long. It is unisex and springtime appropriate. An excellent iris scent that ticks my fussy iris-lover boxes, IdF is hard to fault. A fruitier, airier version than the parfum with added tonka and subtracted oakmoss, this is an affordable way to own a reimagined classic. I still prefer Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, but this gives it a run for its money. Bonus points for affordability. 4.5/5.

Beautiful reorchestration of this scent. I got a bottle of this and the small vial of the extrait. The eau de parfum is every bit as lovely! Glorious peach and orris--the eau de parfum feels a little sweeter (coumarin) and has maybe even a bit more of the spicy clove and green violet leaf aspects of the scent. It has the same skin-like texture as the parfum, however. Having owned several samples and a so fortunately foraged bottle of the original unicorn, I find the modern versions to be curiously faithful in their drydowns, even if they differ in the top notes. Both the extrait and EDP of Iris de Fath actually read, to me, a little more naturally "orris root like" than the vintages I've sampled. Perhaps it's a case of more natural top/mid notes degrading. Once in the drydown, they have that same buttery, slightly plasticky (in a good way!), peachy, pastry-like vibe of the vintage, especially when smelling what lingers on the clothes. What a treat that this was recreated and now made more accessible to genuine aficionados.

Every time I visit Jacques Fath's perfume store, I can't resist spraying both my wrists with L' Iris de Fath Edp. I was there today, to get a new bottle of my beloved Encens Copal and of course, I tested L'Iris again. Even though the first blast is assaulting, it soon mellows to an incredible cold, leathery, peachy, spicy, with faint flowers scent. Iris is always present. It reminds me of Mitsuko and and a little of Jicky by Guerlain, but I find this more refined and in a way cleaner. The two sprays last long on my skin - I can smell it for at least ten hours later and I 've received a few unexpected compliments. I plan to make a bottle of L'Iris EDP mine one day. Classy and beautiful, this deserves at least a try. Edited: I finally got a bottle

one of the most luxurious iris fragrances ever created. The opening reveals a beautiful green note that feels fresh and vibrant, setting the stage for the iris that follows. The iris here feels remarkably natural powdery, velvety and deeply refined. There is also a soft buttery texture that gives the fragrance a couture like elegance. As it settles, the powdery character becomes even smoother and more sophisticated. A magnificent iris and a true classic of high perfumery

Interesting... Mitsouko is that you? I have smelled similar perfumes before, so there is no surprise for me. It is definitely nice, slightly retro chypre, first blast is orris absolute and then Mitsouko with its famous peach note ( aldehyde C-14) and woody leathery chypre base. I can smell even some similarities to Ombre Leather, dry down is very woody and leathery.