Cuir Pleine Fleur

نقد و بررسی عطر Cuir Pleine Fleur james heeley اواخر شهریور یا اوایل مهر ماه؛ وقتی که اولین بارون پاییزی به زمین می شینه و همه چیز رو از غبار تابستان و گرمای بدسگال پاک می کنه؛ در هوای لطیف و جادویی این وقت سال، اعجازی جریان پیدا میکنه که فوق العادست! یه سمفونی بویایی؛ ترکیبی از روایح طبیعی و عمیق در اوج شکوه و وضوح و اثرگذاری. همیشه در این وقت از سال ترجیح میدم در طبیعت و مناطق کوهستانی باشم؛ چرا که این چالش بویاییِ پر از شور و شعف در این مناطق به بهترین شکل و در بالاترین سطح کِیفی، جریان داره. روایحی که ترکیبی از اشتیاق، شادی و دلتنگی هستن؛ بدجوری منو شیفته و متأثر میکنن. شیفته ی این همه عظمت و متأثر از خاطراتی دور که دیگه بر نمی گردن. بوی گرم بارون خورده ی آسفالت خیابونا و پشت بوما، عطر دیوارای کاهگلی و کوچه های خاکی، عطر یونجه های خشک و ساقه های بجا مونده در مزارع گندم که تو هوای لطیف پس از باران شناوره، شمیم جنگل ها و چوبها و برگها که نمیشه از استنشاقش دست کشید و بوی گاوها و گوسفندهایی که در میون مراتع سبزِ رو به زردی؛ تن به بارون سپردن. این روایح در نخستین بارانهای پاییزی؛ فضای دهکده های کوهستانی رو تسخیر میکنن و نه تنها اتمسفر اون مناطق؛ بلکه قلب و روح دیوانه های طبیعت و خاطره بازی، نظیر بنده رو به تسخیر خودشون در میارن! کویغ پِلِن فلو عطر دیگری از جیمز هیلیه که منو عاشق فضا سازی زیبای خودش کرد؛ هر چند که این عطر تمام آنچه که در ذهنم داشتم رو ارائه نمیده؛ اما در لحظات آغازین به نحو عجیبی منو به گوشه ای از کوهستان پس از باران برد. عطر در همراهی دو فضای نسبتا متناقض باز میشه که به موازات هم در جریانن و لطافتی سر سخت، یا سرسختی لطیفی رو ارائه میدن که از بنفشه ی سبز و تازه از یکسو و آکورد چرمی- جیر با لبه های دودی و کثیف از سویی دیگه؛ حاصل میشه. اینجا همون لحظه ایه که این عطر منو غرق خودش میکنه: فضایی آکنده از عطر آسفالت و خاک، علوفه ی خشک و ساقه های گندم و رد بویی از عبور گله ها و رَمه ها؛ در طراوت پر از اعجاز بعد از اولین بارانهای پاییزی. این فضای ملموس و نوستالژیک که از تقابل آکورد چرمی شکل گرفته حول محور برگ های بنفشه، گیاهان و غان با حالت قیرمانند و تاریکش حاصل شده؛ خیلی دلربا و نابه و هرچند حدود سی دقیقه بعد در خشکی گیاهی و سبزی که دودی و چوبیه ادغام میشه؛ اما همون دقایق بدجوری منو اسیر خودش میکنه. با لمسی از علوفه های خشک در اتمسفری دودی-چوبی که محور چرمی کار رو همچنان حفظ کرده؛ عطر به پایه ای درخشان، کمی پودری و تا حدودی شیرین وارد میشه که حس تمیز لوکس و با شکوهی در اون به مشام میرسه و شخصیت دودی-چرمی کار که حالا چهره ای تمیز، لوکس و شیک به خودش گرفته بر اریکه ای از چوب سدر تکیه میکنه تا حسن ختامی باشه بر دوران پرشکوه درخشش و حضورش! کویغ پلن فلو یه اثر پاییزی نابه. دنبال این نیست حرف تازه ای بزنه؛ عطر شعار دادن و خودنمایی کردن هم نیست؛ اما یه عطر چرمی سطح بالاست. یه خلسه ی عمیقه؛ یه تونل پنهان که فارغ از زمان و مکان منو راهی خاطراتی کرد که هر آنچه برام تداعیشون کنه رو دوست خواهم داشت و کویغ پلن فلو چنین کاری رو به زیبایی برام انجام داد. عطر شیک و لوکسی که ساخته شده برای درخشش در پاییز. کیفیت خوب و بالانس شاعرانه ای داره و موندگاری اون حدود هشت ساعت خواهد بود که مثل شخصیت شاعرانه و عمیقی که داره؛ پخشش هم ملایم و نزدیک به پوسته. کامنت: م.ع (سایت لوکس بایر (با امکان تست سمپل

I had a sample of Cuir Plaine Fleur from a store after purchasing an Heeley Scented Candle and didn't pay attention to this perfume at all. After a couple of weeks I tried it without expecting too much as it wasn't one of those creation i was really curious about and I totally got hooked. I wore it in the morning ad then went off for a few commissions when I realized my attention was continuely cought by the perfume I was wearing. This is sooooo nice. I was kinda hypnotized by Cuir Plein Fleur incredible refinement and versatility, by its shy, but remarkable presence. It's actually not much distinctive, but magistrally crafted, perfect for any season, night and day, office and freetime, casual and formal. almost universal. Since then I never stopped thinking about this perfume as it completely fascinated me. One of those I call "a sure shot"! Apparently simple but very complex indeed, Cuir Plain Fleur could be able to explain aerospace engineering to a baby! Sorry If I didn't go through notes explanation and opening / drydown type of things but you can have tones of reviews that go deep into those aspects. To me, Cuir Plain Fleur is just pure sensation and a very delightful one. Rating: 9/10

At first I thought this was too modest for me, but after a while I startet to really enjoy. CpF is very elegant, the way a leather bag sometimes can be very elegant compared to a nylon bag. It is just something about the "feel", the life in the one time animal skin compared to the plastic vibe, but also the craftmanship, the design, the stitches, the color... If you arrive in your nice car at the classy hotel, dressed in a stylish outfit, you just cannot ruin your impression wearing clown sunglasses and a nylon bag. You need stylish accessories and a bag in leather. Enter Cuir Pleine Fleur. Not really "leather" as in 1740 or Bel Ami. More the subtle sense of suede under some flowery stuff (hawthorn? mimosa?) and something very attractive in addition (pheromones dressed in violet leaves?). A quiet fragrance this, but as Susan Cain rightfully wrote (in her book Quiet): There is a tremendous power in the introverts. 9/10

More than a leather fragrance, CPF I find a soft, slightly sweet chamois with a floral touch, ozonic shades that bring air lightness to the chamois, note that the residual has a very particular musky animalic background. The fragrance is well composed, the quality of the essences I like, the residual aroma is original and very interesting, the problem I find it with the performance that is pulling poor, being immediately pegadito to skin, having to over apply after a couple of hours . The composition is quite modern, fine and delicate like a comfortable and fluffy slippers, I find it very wearable for daytime use and also with a markedly unisex character. Rating: 7.5

I believe im smelling the cool/birch that another reviewer described here but then minutes later its turns to a nice soft, dry leather lavender, almost refreshing. I didn't detect much else but I believe this one is due for a re-test. Edit: I put on another larger dose of this. This time it was an animalic leather like everyone else has been getting. Barnyard leather that I really liked! Thank you crgann2006 for reading my mind on this one. I completely agree.

The sexiest elegance alive! Damn it's classy, clean and dirty at the same time! definitely unisex. A true gem in my opinion. I adore this masterpiece! Have to add, that it lasts and lasts.. until you decide to take a shower and wash it off.. 10 out of 10!

This is such a fabulous fragrance. I just wish it would be available again...

One of the best niche leather frags out on the market. Amazingly nice!! 9/10

I love this stuff. This needs to be re-released.

Cuir Pleine Fleur by James Heeley - gone but not forgotten. I was very impressed with this one, for a couple of reasons. First, for a leather fiend like myself to stumble upon a unique and unconventional leather scent (mind you, this one came out in 2006) is very rare. Second, I was not expecting to smell a Jean-Claude Ellena in a Heeley bottle. Now, don't be fooled by the note breakdown with this one. People see violet leaf paired with leather, and shout "Fahrenheit," in the same way they see fruity-chypres featuring peach and shout "Mitsouko," and so on. This perfume smells like nothing I have tried. It takes bits from here and there, but as a whole, it is unique. The only thing that rings familiar to me is the aesthetic, its execution. In that regard, it strongly reminds me of Hermessence Cuir D'Ange, and overall, of Ellena's style. If someone told me this was created by Jean-Claude, I would believe it. And then, some critics claimed James Heeley to be the next Jean Claude Ellena, so there's that. I admit, I'm not familiar with the house, so I can't offer an opinion on that, but there's a strong resemblance to Ellena's style in this perfume. As for the composition itself, this is steering more into Agrestic territory than Leather, although there is a clear presence of the latter. The leather accord behaves much as the one in Cuir D'Ange, while the rest of the perfume smells entirely rustic. It brings to mind perfumes such as Greco's Œillères, Providence Perfumes Moss Gown, and small bits of Prin's Haxan. I'd say more readily the first two. If you'd strip Œillères of its sweaty leather accord, or add a gentle leather touch to Moss Gown, you'd get a good impression of Cuir Pleine Fleur. However, there's a bit more to it, besides that - a very subtle honey note and a quite assertive cinnamon touch that sticks around for quite some time. From the listed notes and accords, I get the violet leaf, cinnamon, hawthorne, leather, honey, and vetiver. Violet leaf and cinnamon open the way, a burst of ozonic green accompanied by the fiery-spicy kick from the cinnamon. Then, the bucolic landscape begins to shape the fragrance on a suede leather canvas. The hawthorne is prominent with its bitter-green and powdery touches, reminiscent of how it complements the leather accord in Cuir D'Ange. But then I get several "phantom accords" that, albeit not listed, are very tangible to me: hay and chamomile. It might be the way the ingredients and molecules interact, but what I smell is without a doubt a dry, grassy, and herbal heart where hay, chamomile, hawthorne, and the lingering violet leaf pave the way for the leather. The latter is a soft, suede-like take on the accord. It bears the minimum amount of smokiness and animalic twang. In the base, it goes into a creamy musk direction with hints of dry and aromatic vetiver. This is a subtle take on leather that works great during Spring and Summer, but can be worn all year round. If Ruade is the rugged leather saddle you ride on and Œillères is the rustic waistcoat imbued with the sweat of a day's work in the fields, then Cuir Pleine Fleur is the elegant pair of leather gloves you match to your tweed suit while taking a road trip to the countryside for a breath of fresh air. It is Cuir D'Ange's rustic cousin. IG:@memory.of.scents

Unfortunately discontinued but I'll do my best to describe it. Cuir Pleine Fleur is quite a tanned, birch-woody herbaceous leather without any obvious tarry notes and only extremely faint animalics. It's mostly bright, bitter, punchy violet leaf in the opening, with a subtle milieu of herbs lending support. The texture is very much of a snapped tree trunk - woody, dry, very natural but just a little "distressed" smelling. Beneath this lies a gigantic, old-styled leather note which is relatively butch but not loud or cloying at all. I think the artistry here was the assembly of such a heavy masculine-leaning composition without ever becoming trite or "too much" - it strikes an amazing balance of gritty and soft, sweet and bitter, cool and warm. Very woody but never synthetic smelling, it's really quite suave and delicate, like an attentive, gentlemanly, butleresque guy in his 40s is following you around opening doors, investigating bumps in the night and listening calmly to you with the patience of a saviour. Fantastic frag, but as I prefer my leathers to either be very aldehydic, very animalic, or very fruity, something so well-balanced as this was fated to never truly be my scent. Note: A similar, non-discontinued scent with an identical mood would be Angelos Creations Olfactives Pnoi

Animalic leather. This starts off with a soft chewy feeling leather, but within ten minutes the castoreum appears and it's a lovely accord with the hint of cinnamon I'm comparing this to the ultimate leather - Cuir de Russie - Cuir Pleine Fleur is more contemporary in feel since CdR has the Chanel aldehydic signature. For me Cuir de Russie still wins out for sheer elegance, not that Cuir Pleine Fleur isn't elegant, it smells expensive, but it's more animalic/musky Into dry-down Cuir Pleine Fleur leans towards masculine to my nose, with lime, vetiver and cedar, though it's by no means sporty 'after-shave-like'. Castoreum, cinnamon and beeswax make this is a very warm, balanced scent with a musky leather haze that could be very seductive While it has a 'skin scent' feel, it's quite pervasive, or noticable - probably not one for work, or early mornings! Having tried Iris de Nuit I'm not surprised at the quality of this Silage moderate to strong depending on how sensitive you are to musk, longevity excellent

There is leather here, but not in the way you might expect. This instantly reminds me of a horse stall, with fresh hay thrown in for feed. The horse has just come in from a good workout and the leather saddle that was used is emmanating sweat and saddle soap. This isn't an unpleasant scent... This is one of those barns that is spotless and can only come from a family of wealth that can afford to hire a horse trainer and staff to care for the stables. The leather saddle isn't a hand-me-down. This saddle is a work of art in itself. And the stallion exudes energy. A champion. But above it all comes the hay. Not bits and stems, but lush clover that has set in the sun and dried to the perfect moisture. This scent is very evocative of the behind-the-scenes, luxury horse racing. But I'm not sure that I want to smell like that.

Heeley might be a young brand, but already it came up with a few absolutely excellent fragrances- and Cuir Pleine Fleur is another one that I would not hesitate wearing. It starts off quite leathery- I did not get much bergamote, but a lot of suede and birch. It's not a fragrance that would make you think of furniture, accessories or clothes (like Hermes), this is a lot fresher, especially in the later stages. Very elegant and quiet, seems more like a background scent, but oh, what a background that would be! I wonder how Heeley managed to create something so subtle and so majestic at the same time. I could be wearing this, but I think it would smell so much nicer on a man after all.

Rich.. Masculine... This starts with classical green notes.. then it becomes a bit spicy perhaps thats the HAWHORNE As it dries down... the warmth of the suede/leather notes become pronounce.. in a very "CHANEL Cuir Russie" way. Just when I was starting to really like this fragrance...it curdled on me. and then it just became a strange, dare I say common MUSKY Male scent. perhaps this one needs to be tried again another day ...

Nearly identical to Knize Ten, but twice as expensive. Smells a lot like Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque and Chergui. It's a soft suede scent with some rose and soft, light woods but it doesn't last very long on teh skin and has almost no sillage. Some people love this scent. Unfortunately, for me, another dud for Heeley IMO, and for the price it's just ridiculous. Thank goodness for samples.

Beautiful aromatic leather. The violet leaf and hawthorn are really strong on me. Cuir Pleine Fleur is fresh, soft and clean. This is not a beast-like leather. This one is well-behaved. I like it. I think it would suit many, and it's a great start for someone new to leather scents. Very elegant, peaceful, easy to wear.

Cuir Pleine Fleur is an unusual perfume and no rules, is a mix of hardness the leather with the delicacy of the flowers. Unpretentious, elegant and timeless. Aimed at people traveling in the life of a very singular.

Cuir Pleine Fleur wears very closely to my skin, and on my skin it is quirky, sophisticated and clean: like an emerald-colored leather jacket borrowed from another woman who just showered with expensive soap.

Beautiful! one of few leather I like. Violet suede mimose and dust-smokey. easy to wear loafer and faded jeans.. 7.5/10