L'Art de la Guerre

My #1 fougere fragrance. All season, unique, fresh, tart, earthy, enjoyable, watery vib. "The art of war." There is a war of contrasting notes and fragrance accords going on here, and it's the art and beauty of this fragrance. I think Immortelle is the predominant heart note. It can allmost be thought of as an exquisite Immortelle fragrance. I own a bottle of this, and it took me quite a few wearings to get to know the Immortelle; it's like straw, or curry, toasted bread, it can smell fruity and earthy. This is very sophisticated, and very well composed fragrance, artfully done, very natural smelling notes. It's very gender neutral, slightly leaning masculine for me. Jovoy has a fragrance like this, that does lean more strongly masculine, Les Jeux... This is herbal, earthy, woody, with very nice, fresh sour fruits of rubarb and green apple. The lavender and violet are in the background, like in many men's fougers like YSL Rive Gauche. L'Art has a slight aquatic vib, because of the violet. There are some nice crunchy, earthy green notes, perhaps it's an oakmoss/ rubarb accord. The oakmoss is a key note in the heart accord of the fragrance. It's a bit sour and earthy. With the sour green apple, rubard, the earthy patchouli; you have these earthy, yet contrasting notes making a unique and harmonious fragrance accord. This interplay of the fresh fruity, and floral notes, with the brown earthy, woody notes is fascinating. This is a fragrance that takes many wearings to discover the beauty going on. It's a discovery of what's so enjoyable about it. The nutmeg adds a great touch of balance to the tart fruity notes, makes me think of brown, drawing it back to the earthy ground. It's a homage to the mossy masculine fragrances of the 80's. Yet it is supremely modern in it's innovation. I think it was Jean Claude Elena that said of vintage Hermes Equipage, I could wear it a thousand times, and still not discover it fully. I think L'Art de la Guerre is in that category. This perfumer in NYC, has a small niche perfume house Apoteker Tepe. She composes wildly interesting fragrances; some not so wearable. This frag reminds me of her fragrance, "After the Flood". It has earth, mushroom, with water Lilly and violet. I can see this as a signature fragrance, super unique, but very wearable. It's a creative fragrance, that doesn't fit into any classic category; like chypre, fougere, etc. It's kind of like Zoologist fragrances. PS: In my first impression, this did not wow me. But after further inspection, there is a lot going on here in a good way. This may be the best Jovoy, if you factor artistic perfumery, and overall enjoyment. Don't miss Colin Maillard's review 2nd to the last, he nails it, and really gets into all the complex nuances. Colin erased his review here. You can find it on base notes. He says it has, "a gloomy, earthy, organic soul". Colin creatively expresses the "feel" of a fragrance. Rating: 9.75/10 God bless. John 3:16

The opening is simply full of spicy autumn vegetables and fruits and they are all combative and full of character. While this might sound odd I think it is amazing. As you might guess from the metrics, this is a scent that is a little bit polarising, but it is undeservedly underrated on this site; L'Art de la guerre is a modern yet timeless, niche, vegetal fougère that is unparalleled in my book. In the opening and for 30 minutes you will, then, perhaps be a little bit surprised by everything going on. Anyone with a bit of cooking experience will recognise the combination of rhubarb, green apple and celery stalks as a very contrasting yet successful balancing act of aromatics, the surprise to me is how well it works together when you cannot intervene with sweetness and acidity that you can on the tongue. Supported by leafy herbals (violet and patchouli) and spicy nutmeg, the aromatic vegetal impression remain a signature throughout the full 8-12 hours this scent will last you, but eventually lavender, oakmoss and sandalwood comes through and suddenly there are nods of recognition towards the classical fougères. You can feel the debt it owes to Pour Un Homme de Caron (1934) and Trumper's Wild Fern (1877) but yet it is idiosyncratic and entirely own thing – none of the talcum notes of Caron nor the strong coumarin of Wild Fern. Once the base is properly established, the ever so odd combinations are lifted into a state of harmony and peace. Some have said elsewhere that it is a little sweet, but I disagree. The rounded odours you will find in especially fruits are not by destiny associated with sweetness although in the memory of many it will; damascenones, esters, ketones are prone to fool the brain into believing that sweetness will eventually reach your tongues receptors, a bit like when you smell and taste a bone dry yet fruity white wine. But I find L'Art de la Guerre to be very little "sweet" myself, although other people might have different experiences. At any rate, it all balances out, and I think some of the magic is that the drydown feels both so classically masculine and yet so idiosyncratic at the same time. Anyone with ever so slightly developed olfactory receptors will notice that this is not your average male scent, whereas those who prefer mainstream scents will fully accept it (at least if my varied surroundings are anything to go by). Although Jovoy presents it as unisex, it is a bit difficult for me to imagine women appreciating the long lasting oakmossy drydown phase.

The Art of War Another unique and fantastic perfume from Jovoy. It opens with a blast of bitter and sour notes of rhubarb and typical bergamot, softened by mellow smell of green apple. Then it gradually reveals its lovely immortelle as its pivotal player with a hint of spicy nutmeg. In this middle phase, L`Art de la Guerre is a rather unique combination of the sour rhubarb and powdery-spicy immortelle. Then as it moves forward to its final phase, the charming but soft leather note shows itself together with sensual labdanum, dusty patchouli and oakmoss give the whole structure a classic mood. Vanina Muracciole has successfully created a perfume which is modern and classic at the same time.This is the art of war. A war between modern and classic structure. But the outcome of this war is a peaceful agreement. L`Art de la Guerre will pleases both classic lovers and novice modern tastes interested to get familiar with the amazing world of classical aromas and structures. In a sense, L`Art de la Guerre can be considered the summer edition of 1740 from Histoires de Parfumes with the shared immortelle and leather as pivotal notes supported by sensual and spicy notes like nutmeg and labdanum. هنر جنگ شاهکاری دیگر از برند جووی شروع کار با هجمۀ ترش و تیز ریواس و ترنج آغاز میشه که با ترشی ملیح سیب سبز تلطیف شده است. بتدریج نت های میانی علی الخصوص ایمورتل جذاب که نت محوری کار هست خود را نمایان می کند و بهمراه آن شمه ای از حالت ادویه ای جوز نیز حس می شود. فاز میانی این کار که ترکیبی از ترشی ریواس و حالت پودری، نسبتا تلخ و ملیح ایمورتل هست حالتی خاص و منحصر به فرد است سپس با محو شدن نت ترش ریواس، اینک نوبت نت های جذاب پایۀ کار است که به مهمانی ایمورتل بروند. چرم در اینجا لطیف و ملیح است و با لابدانوم اغواگر ترکیب فوق العده جذابی ایجاد می کنند. همچنین حالت خاکی پچولی و خزه به ساختار کلی عطر حالتی کاملا کلاسیک می دهد وانینا موراچیوله با موفقیت توانسته است اثری خلق کند که در آن واحد هم مدرن است و هم کلاسیک. نام عطر اینجاست که مفهوم میابد. این هنر جنگ بین کلاسیک و مدرن است. جنگی که ماحصل آن توافقی است صلح آمیز. عطری که هم علاقمندان به کارهای کلاسیک را مجذوب خود می کند و هم ذائقه های مدرنی که در عالم کلاسیک تازه وارد هستند و میخواهند بیشتر با دنیای جذاب روایح و ساختار کلاسیک آشنا شوند. از جهاتی می توان این عطر را نسخۀ تابستانی و مفرح 1740 از برند هیستوریز دانست با همان نت های ایمورتل و چرم بعنوان بازیگران اصلی که نت های ادویه ای و اغواگری آن را پشتیبانی می کنند.

Absolute love as many Jovoys. Blended to perfection In the begining bit strong but settles quickly to a symphony of notes but I would say accords very hard to pinpoint each. Name is apt Art of War, as it is beautiful war among flowers (airy) and heavy notes (heavy) with hint of fruit where bno one looses every ones wins and creates a unique vision of of war-statement Smell : 10/10 longevity: 10/10 easy 14 hours ,even after 2 baths (current 2023 bottle) Sillage : 7/10 which is perfect for scent profile in my view. ---------- Now coming to the notes playing the roles here: Note purely my feeling about the perfume,Let me try to describe below: Leather (prominent from mid to base and it is not typical industrial leather its soft just to represent humans/animal in war) Oakmoss ((supports as greenness representing war field not very heavy from mid to base) Patchouli (Jovoy signature and backbone and does the job of the above along with providing darkness) Labdanum (prominent from mid to base, gives bit ambery sweetness representing happiness of winning) Sandalwood (supports and hold the base and provides the vision of weapons made of) Rhubarb (not so sure) Green Apple (Ofcourse there from start to finish representing food needed to for soldiers) Bergamot (for initial few secs or mins) Immortelle (Ofcourse there from start to finish representing the hay for horses , tobacco for soldiers who are essential from start to end of war) Nutmeg, Lavender, Violet Leaf (adding spiciness and breaking monotony and lift up if at all it goes in summer heat rarely )

Psychedelique opened up so eccentric and sensual but the nondescript musk drydown was such a letdown. Out of all the Jovoy I tried, L'art de la Guerre is the more sensible and mature along with Gardez-Moi; a dusty sunset with floral decadence, Private Label; dark, smoky, boozy, well-layered patchouli. Others in the series were either too redundant on patchouli, faded out too quickly or too sickeningly rich and complex. L'art de La Guerre starts with the effervescence of organic, self-grown produce in a cosy kitchen evenly balanced with a touch of citrus. It smoothens into mid notes where things start to shine - the slightly "smoked wood" undertones supported by oakmoss and leather emerges, robustly composed like a passage of a Hemingway prose. Picture yourself sitting at an oak executive table in cosy study filled with rustic ornaments, while you enjoy a book and pour yourself a whiskey. I find description of "gunpowder" an appropriate category, as mentioned by a user below. Linearity of midnotes to drydown with the immortelle at play evokes such a powerful combination reminding me a lot of Gucci Guilty Absolute (Men), less of animalic woods. Here, the Immortelle creates depth and character, perfectly replicating the bitterness of wood on GGA. You can pick up the organic transition from simple and nuanced vegetal notes, which segues into mature leather, oakmoss with Immortelle and finally nutmeg. Very uniquely blended 8.4/10

Jovoy is a house that I respect and adore. Their fragrances are artistically blended hence the fragrances may not be suitable for the novice nose. In any case, try before you buy! L'art de la Guerre's initial opening radiates a sense of freshness due to the presence of bergamot and green apple, however, the freshness is restraint by the tartness of the rhubarb. The opening stage is the shortest in comparison to the other stages and, from then onwards, L'art de la Guerre is dense but, surprisingly, it retains its freshness throughout the journey of the fragrance. The heart of the perfume is dominated by the lavender and immortelle. In general, the combination of Immortelle and lavender can give off a synthetic plasticky smell but that not the case here. The ingredients here are of high quality and it is not difficult to tell them apart. The base is warm, as expected, with the leather, vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli. L'art de la Guerre gives off a moderate-to-heavy sillage and remains perceptible for at least 8-12 hours. It's a unisex scent that leans towards the masculine side but, like good wine, both sexes will appreciate it equally. Overall, I enjoy the well-mannered contrast between the fresh and dense qualities of the scent. This is how I would best describe L'art de la Guerre, which makes it similar to the weather during spring, at least in the UK. 8/10 NB. This and most of Jovoy's fragrances are shower-resistant.

The smell of his perfume quite difficult to distinguish, many have same approach, notes. Nevertheless, you turn your head in the side of the wearer passing you by. Very beautiful frag on masculine side due to light leather note well presented from the beginning to the dry down, much elegantly than TF Tuscan Leather. This frag is definitely for Pachouli lovers. All together are rounded with camphor like smell, I would say in Creed way. This is long lasting eau de parfume with perfect projection as it exactly should be for man's frag. There are some similarities with TF Santal Blush especially dry down, with Scandal for men of Roha Dove at the opening and midle stage. However, these both are on feminine side. What else - I think it's hardly so recognizable as Aventus Creed or Chergui SL, but L'Art de la Guerre is not so boring, not so liner, and 100% compliments collector. This perfume is in Creed league for sure. Regading price/quality ratio Jovoy could be the winner in Niche segment. I am not ready yet to inaugurate L'Art de la Guerre as my Signature perfume, but who knows :) PS. The box, the bottle are gorgeous, much appreciated.

When I first sampled this I loved the opening, but couldn't tolerate the bitterness that followed. I tried a couple of times on skin but was dissapointed. Fast forward a year and while I was discarding older samples, I tried one last time and to my surprise I loved it. I ended up buying a full bottle recently. It opens fruity, classy, sparkly with a hit of dry leather. The rhubarb pushes the apple to one side, establishing it's authority and the whole experience presents itself as overwhelmingly romantic. It definately evokes some strong imagery and tells a story of passion and hope. The immortelle introduces a dry bitterness and the patchouli jumps off the skin for a while, appearing clean and almost transparent and glimmering. This is a fragrance that stays fresh and airy throughout. Full bottle worthy. I am a little concerned as it isn't listed currently on the Jovoy UK website. I hope it hasn't had the chop. I've only just found it.

Update a few months in: I now have over 60 top of the line fragrances and L'Art de la Guerre is still one my favourite ones. What an amazing composition and so unique! Absolutely top notch fragance again by Jovoy. I didn't know what to think of it at first. L'Art de la Guerre is so potent, so masculine, rough, raw, sharp in its opening! The opening is bright and brash, almost metallic and aromatic. The dry down is amazing! I care a lot about longevity and Art has great longevity. The scent feels almost dissonant at first, on purpose. I like it a lot! It is not an evening scent for relaxation but definitely an early morning one, when you wake up on a Napoleonic battlefield, ready to conquer the world. :-) Then it settles down into a very classy and smooth fougere, with a strong and unique character.

Damn it Jovoy, just take all my money why don't you. I didn't expect to love this but it is one of the rare (maybe four?) fragrances that ever changed my mind on how I want to smell. Last time was BR540, a long time ago. Now, this. I think my, usually super-difficult, skin is a perfect match for the juice. The review by gedlive from 2018 below is absolutely spot-on, I have nothing to add to his analysis. I do understand that it might not work on everyone, I wouldn't recommend it for a blind-buy. This is the best fougere I've experienced, by *far*. I can't even remember the second, it's obliterated. Jovoy has a way of turning me on to categories I was averse to up till now. Will I get a full bottle? It's already in the mail.

As with most fragrance fanatics, blind buys seem to be in the cards. For some reason there are few brands that just seem to 'work' for me as well as Jovoy does. L'Art de la Guerre at first spray comes off a little bitter to me (almost a fresh celery vibe), soon dries down to an absolutely GORGEOUS and soapy delight! It has quickly become one of my favorites from the line ... but nothing will EVER beat Incident Diplomatique. Incident Diplomatique is the only fragrance that drew the following compliment from a lady in passing, "Damn you smell good!!" Getting back to L'Art de la Guerre, I absolutely LOVE it and found it to be a stellar blind buy!

Just bought this beaut while in Paris last week at the Jovoy boutique. In the initial opening of this gorgeous fragrance, it quickly & definitely brought to mind Nasomatto Absinth -- especially the light spiciness and faintly Cannabis-ish waft that Nasomatto Absinth produces on my skin. I absolutely loved this about Nasomatto Absinth so also totally love this aspect with L'Art de la Guerre. This Jovoy offering was a pleasant surprise and I couldn't resist picking up a 100ml bottle of this beauty as I knew instinctively that I had to have it or would deeply regret not snapping it up while over in France.

Fresh rhubarb in the top. Shortly after, the immortelle takes the lead (the main player), and will be joined by the oakmoss to give a great impression of leather. Performance is good on my skin. This is the masculine counterparts to HdP 1740, a more unisex/sweet-ish take on the immortelle/leather theme, although with a quite different result. I slightly prefer Jovoy's, and highly recommend it to who is able to appreciate yesteryear takes on leather. Note that loving immortelle is a requirement in order to enjoy this one. I prefer to wear this one in colder days, and it's a keeper for me!

I think this is the best Jovoy fragrance A true hidden gem. I reviewed this a few years ago when first purchased. Rediscovering how good it is. The pros and cons by fragrantica are very good points. This may smell too much of kitchen spices to some. But I love a good spicy fragrance, as this is. The rhubarb and green apple are great unique fresh fruits that make a great accord with the nutmeg. That's the first hour opening. The dry down is good but not as exceptional as the open-mid. In the dry down I get more patchouli and a bit of leather with some spice.

From the men's discovery set, by far my favorite. A very easy uplifting wear but also refined and complex. Looking for a full bottle now. Rhubarb and antique leather notes, very French, very happy garden sunlight memory. Other jovoys: Psychedelique really nice but grew cloying after an hour with heavy chocolate base. Incident Diplomatique and Private Label both were overwhelming also not me. Good though! All good but each feels tailored to particular personality types. This one is a gem.

Feels like hugging someone you have deep love and appreciation for, while they are cooking and wearing an apron that has soaked in everything in the kitchen. It’s so sweet to me for a long time, and after the rhubarb and apple clear up it gets a bit more green and earthy. So beautiful.

Opens with a blast of sweet rhubarb. After 5 minutes the sweetness is gone and it becomes a mix of bitter celery and coriander seeds wrapped in a tomato leaf. But, the sweetness comes back in the dry down. Very unique and interesting. Ordered a full bottle after the second wearing.

Wearable Jovoy, I reckon sits on the more warmer days spot in this line. Loved it at first sniff to be franck with you. Performance can't catch up with others like psycodeicue or private label but still perfect for summer evenings and spring times. Cheers and stay safe.

Such a beautiful and addictive fougere. Starts with a fresh rhubarb and turns very warm and spicy, this contrast made me emotional. It has some sweetness which I usually dislike but here, with the immortelle, I think it works perfectly.

Fresh, spicy and fruity opening. Green and aromatic with a solid Woody and leathery base. Not to heavy and manage to stay fresh and a bit sweet. The first hour with Rhubarb and green apple is imo absolutely amazing

Very nice smooth, understated bitter vegetal scent, but also smells a bit like lotion that has gone off, it's creamy and bitter at the same time, honestly reminds me of new car smell

Bold and intriguing. Sharp rhubarb and green apple lead into warm leather and oakmoss, with a spicy, herbal twist. It’s daring, slightly masculine, and perfect for standing out.

This smells a lot like a Guerlain masterpiece that is discontinued and goes for $800/ 100 ml. It's Guerlain Lupin Dandy. It's a dry woody, spicy with violet.

This is like Caron Yatogan, very unique, more modern and better quality than Yatogan. I put it in my top 5 for Fall.

Just beautiful, elegant, uplifting, more masculine scent, smooth - bravo

Tart, juicy, ripe autumn fruits make for enjoyable top notes in L'Art de la Guerre, though they're a bit more short-lived than I would like. Immediately noticeable are the green apples, rhubarb and a subtle celery note which adds a bitter, vegetal quality among the fruit. Is this the oakmoss coming through? Probably, because after the appealing, yet fleeting opening, L'Art de la Guerre quickly moves toward its clean, classic fougere heart. Prominent notes include oak moss, a dry unsweetened lavender, and a grayish-green leafy violet, clean and naturally fresh. Something of a bitter-sweet contrast runs through la Guerre's mid, and it probably has to do with remnants from the fruits in the opening, and more particularly the immortelle which gradually amplifies in strength right around the one hour mark. Immortelle is a note I've struggled with in the past, but I don't think it's overdone here. In fact, its sweeter, syrupy quality is needed to bring some relief from the dry, leafy astringency that precedes it. And it's been dosed properly, never overpowering any aspect of the scent or becoming overly thick and sweet. It's subtle, and as far as immortelle goes, pretty reserved. I like how the heart is approached here. I often find fougeres overly harsh, aggressive, and unrelenting in their "classic masculinity". They tire me out quickly. But the classic fougere accord is given something of a softer, rounded treatment in L'Art de la Guerre and due to that it feels modern and human. Often, when I smell a powerhouse fougere from the past, I can't help but think of Ron Burgundy and his obtuse, goofy sexism as parodied in the movie, "Anchorman," and I believe that's what's kept me away from them. However, this is different. It's elegant, and presents the old-school fougere in a more evolved and sophisticated light. Finally reaching its base, L'Art de la Guerre has relaxed and settled into a soft leather chair, warm and comfortably worn. A floral bouquet sits somewhere off in the background. Its a nice finish to the bracing heart notes and winds things down in a reposed, conclusive manner. L'Art de la Guerre has been a pleasure to wear and experience. It fills a space in my wardrobe that I thought would remain there for some time. After having no luck with Fougere Royale, Azzaro, Paco Rabanne, New York, or Bois du Portugal, I kind of wrote the "classic masculine fougere" genre off. But this one works, for the reasons mentioned above, and I'm glad to have it around. Thumbs up, definitely, though I recommend sampling first to make sure this style is appropriate for you. Sillage is moderate and longevity is good.

This stuff is extremely strong and long lasting on my skin. Whoa... I was testing out a sample that I obtained recently and wore this as my scent of the day yesterday and it is very, very powerful. It fills a room, even with minimal sprays and commands attention. I feel as though this fragrance is very appropriately named and I can picture a corporate tycoon wearing it at a business meeting to intimidate their rivals. On my skin, it was a leather and oakmoss bomb supported by a clean and soapy lavender. The nutmeg brought out a spicy sweetness that stuck around in the background for the life of the fragrance. The fruitiness of the rhubarb and green apple didn't last very long on my skin but offered a pleasant sweet counterbalance to the very earthy oakmoss. Scent : 8/10 Smells very good and very masculine but I'd have liked the sweetness from the fruits to stick around longer Quality : 10/10 smells very expensive and of extremely high quality. Longevity : 10/10 lasted over 12 hours on my skin. it was about 7 hours before it settled closer to the skin Projection : 10/10 fills a room with ease, so go easy on the sprays or you may choke out the people around you. Sillage : unfortunately, I don't know because it projected so far and so hard, I couldn't tell if it was the projection or sillage trails I was smelling when I walked around. Overall : BEAST Final thoughts ... This one is extremely well crafted and blended but really not what I'm used to at all. I usually lean toward the sweeter side of things and this is just straight up CEO/BOSS MAN kind of scent, at least to my nose. If your ambition is to dominate and fill up any room you enter, then give this one a try.

What a stunner. Opening is strong and bracing, can definitely get green apple and an almost boozy astringent rhubarb there, a little (high quality) vodka like. Fairly quickly though the scent gets dominated with the honeyed warmth of immortelle and nutmeg. Very nice and comforting, almost gourmand. On top of those warm notes you get short wafts and flecks of lavender and a green touch from violet coming through, balancing out the warmth and bringing a touch of the classic into the mix. As time goes on this comes more apparent. I don't detect the leather until quite a while in, and then you'll get a light version of the leather you expect from other notable scents like TL. The dry and dusty oakmoss balanced against the fruity aspects shows up here too so I see why people chose Eucris as a smells like. Excellent high quality I'd say masculine scent that is quite unique. Given the warmth of the immortelle and spices I'd say it is best saved for fall wearing or a cold winter night indoors.

It is Canada, during a hot summer day outside, with sunglasses on, in the company of friends, drinking one of several Bloody Caesars. A Bloody Caesar is a Canadian version of a Bloody Mary. The differences are in the main juice (a juice called Clamato, which is similar to Bloody Mary’s “only tomato juice”), and usually the addition of celery salt on the glass rim, plus a celery stalk as a garnish. Tabasco sauce, Worcestershire sauce, vodka and ice are a match. A few of the drinks have spilled drops onto the steel patio table. The liquid is warm thanks to the sun and the hot surface. It pushes the Caesars into the immediate atmosphere, causing a pungent, spicy, but fresh bubble around us. It creates a feeling of relaxation; enjoying a great day with friends and laughter, assisted by the fun of the clean vodka hiding in the drinks.

I have no idea what rhubarb is, never have seen or smelled it. it's probably something that's not even imported to my country, nor is used in the culture. but whatever it is, it must have been the reason why this fragrance smells so sour in the first few minutes. although after some time, it calms down, that sourness goes away and changes a bit to a different herbal smell (which I assume to be coming from immortelle- another plant that I'm unfamiliar of), that rhubarb does not leave until the drydown. I can't detect any leather here. there are refined spices as well. it's quite unique though, nothing similar comes to mind while sniffing. brilliant blend, uplifting and invigorating scent, stunning work. not for everyone. I can't decide if it's really "the art of war', but it definitely is art.

The opening feels fresh, not too dense terpene which quickly redirected to a linear, formal, nice fougere. Eugenol detected and violet leaf. Lavender does not feel dominant. All this fills the heart notes giving consistency but always feel airy and light, the deeper layers during the drydown feel basically patchouli, labdanum, leathery, wood notes like IsoE and evernyl. The last aura like a dark smoky notes. The fragrance has a Cyprus side, dark, very woody with hints of hay and snuff. All this is very typical of many classics fougeres 80. The fragrance is clearly facing a classic male audience, but redesigned for the current gentleman. Good composition, duration and fair projection without being in your face, which makes it an excellent day-use fragrance. Rating: 5

Quick Sniff An IBQ vegetal leather take reminds of Jolly Madam by BALMAIN, but in more modern, wearable manner. Serve as always. JOVOY manner. There is a certain moment that move in very precision manner From sparkling fruity tone into not so dry vergetal leather. That you don’t go against its work on it own. The dry down gives kind of powdery / leathery dry-down. Wear comfortably, fougere leather kind of experience but not barbershop. It somehow reminds me of 21 Condrit St. in polish finish, still notice a nice modern amber dry down along with tar and nagamotha but round out, Very nice. Enjoyable. Extension 1 on March 16, 2025 I will grab one before the bottle change to 75 ml.

More of a masculine scent imo than a true unisex, but of course that's up to interpretation. What I was most impressed by was the rhubarb note lasting throughout the entire experience. In the beginning the apple stands out more, but about 30 minutes into wear a very nice gunpowder scent appears. It smells like what I imagine a warrior priest would smell like. Herbs, gunpowder and leather. While I don't necessarily go wild for it, it is a fascinating and unique scent and I think this would absolutely bring the ladies to the yard. A scent like this makes me want to ask what book he is currently reading.

Usually immortelle can dominate a fragrance, but here I felt it was very well balanced with the rhubarb and apple notes, which nicely accented the tartness and tanginess of the whole thing. This reminded me of HdP's 1740, only it is far less powerful and far less funky, which means you could be more likely to wear this out, but unfortunately does not make it quite as memorable. It's hard to imagine where exactly you would want to wear this, exactly, since the central accord is so singular; but it's a lovely fragrance.

Scents & Vision and Mojtabaa provide excellent insight into this perfume. It is as complex a construction as much as it is easy to wear. Burst of freshness right out of the gate that might lean feminine. As it evolves, however, the immortelle and rhubarb provide balance and a calming feature to the sharp apple and bergamot notes. The leather starts rising about 30 minutes in and the fragrance settles into a lasting, comfortable but memorable experience that can be worn by either men or women.

another masterpiece from jovoy. fresh and warm scent together make it versatile perfume. start with overdose rhubarb and keep on with immortelle and leather note( really like 1740 specially in start) the only reason that make me avoid to buy this gem is sillage. longevity is good but sillage is awfull.(maybe 2 hours). so only beacause of that 8/10

The base shares the same vibe with Eau de Gloire (Parfum d'Empire), but L'Art de la Guerre is far more immortelle-heavy and more fruity-sweet. Great performance. Slightly more masculine-meaning, but I can def see a lady in leather jacket wearing this in autumn. A must try if you are exploring immortelle perfumes.

leather isnt a note i usually like, but here it is actually quite nice. ya maybe the notes arent blended well together, maybe it is kinda weird and not in harmony, but i like that about it. its a dark thick fragrance, im surprised honey isnt listed as a note. dry, deep, thick, dark.

Aromatic, leathery and woody with sweet notes rounding out the fragrance. Mossy but not prominently so, which I think would ruin the fragrance. I expected sourness but it's not at all. One of the best of the 7 samples I have. fbw. -

Sweet floral notes....received a a sample. Longevity was not great (1-2 hours) and quickly to me became a skin scent. If it performed better it might be bottle worthy as it is a pleasant smell that is not too feminine.

very soapy drydown, probably the lavender, the suede keeps it alive, which itselfs lies on a bed of the basenotes. Like it, but the sample is enough for me. :)

Scent: 8/10 Quality: 8/10 Originality: 7/10 Sillage: 7/10 Projection: 6/10 Longevity: 6/10 Price VS Size: 7/10

L’Art de la Guerre kicks off with a sharp, tart green bite — bitter, herbal, and a little dry, setting a confident tone right away. Pretty quickly, that edge softens as immortelle adds a warm, straw-like vibe, and violet leaves bring in a cool metallic touch with this faint turpentine or petrol-like twist — weirdly elegant, not harsh. As it settles, the leather comes through: not animalic or rough, but smooth and clean, like brand-new leather car seats. Underneath it all is an earthy green base that keeps everything grounded. It smells like a modern take on those sharp masculine scents from the ’70s–’80s but much sleeker and easier to wear. Subtle yet distinctive, classy without trying too hard — great performance and perfect for the office or anytime you want to smell put-together without being loud.

Rhubarb and green apple may be there, but for me they result in slightly salty opening referring to aftertaste from nasal spray, than the yellow citrus hint ends the opening. Body comes right after few opening minutes with strong sillage of classical cologne water components, where you can identify nutmeg, sandalwood and lavender with certainty and fine leather undertone - its nice and spicy but...not so original, bit dated. Nothing to write home about. OK if you like cologne and not bad to try when you search for different more indepth take on aftershave fragrances.

They brought back the rhubarb and fruit concept from 21 but this time, it’s mixed with apple instead of grapefruit. Yum. If only it weren’t stuck between a gnarly leather accord and wet wood. Undertone is a prominent violet leaf and mild spices. Refined and dressed up. Tones down after the opening, for goodness sake. Lovers of leather will get a kick out of this, and not many others.

To me, it mostly smells like lovage (the herb) and Indian mango pickles. It's as if someone is preparing food and has started chopping things up, but hasn't started cooking yet. Very raw and vegetal. Intriguing, high quality, but I'm not sure when I would want to smell like this. It's something you might want smell on a blotter every now and then, purely because it's interesting.

Having never tried rhubarb in a fragrance I bought a sample. I find this composition sweet, light and thin, meaning it lacks any depth. Feel it needs some more weight in the heart, feels like it is lacking body and unfinished. This is not the house for me, I’ve tried five of their offerings and didn’t care for any. 6.0/10

I smell mostly nutmeg and woods in this, nothing of the leather, violet or rhubarb at all sadly :( Despite this it is quite nice, along the lines of Incident Diplomatique but drier and less "special"

The rhubarb is not strong, I wouldn't find it if I wasn't told to look for it. There's a bit of granny smith, green, acidic apple, but not much. This is all about that leather/labdanum, patchouli, immortelle, oakmoss, lavender, and nutmeg. This is dark, earthy, leathery, mossy, with pet store and medicinal like patchouli, with the aromatic/spicy/herbal top. I don't like it because to me it smells like cooking spices. It smells like a cupboard of vegetables and dry spices followed by leather. This is moderately dark, for an older man. Not office safe, anytime, but use less in summer. Lasts a day, projects moderately. Can't go past that dry vegetal note.

I agree with the one reviewer below there's something very musty and fuzzy about this fragrance as if it's not well blended or the ingredients just don't work well together. It's not a terrible smell but it just doesn't move me it's more of a meh. Definitely masculine I would never wear this as a woman. It smells kind of like leather that is not been stored properly. Almost moldy. Like you found a leather jacket out in the woods one day and there was mold and moss and lichen growing all over it and it was wet and just ruined. The more I smell it the more I dislike it.