Private Label

There is a smoky Java vetiver here. It's a dry and smoky desert. It makes the Green, slightly sweet papyrus, feel like you have come to a welcome desert Oasis. It is exceptionally earthy as the review after mine stated. (scentitar) I love the opening best when the patchouli is most dominant. It does stay throughout, so that's good. The quality of essences used here and performance is unsurpassed ! The price is not excessive for what you get. Beautiful bottle also. I ordered a sample of Frederic Malle Monsieur frag. Some say it's similar to Private Label, but the patch stays more dominant. I hope that's the case. Monsieur may be even more like a rich man's Bently Intense, because they both have a boozy note, this does not. I recently purchased a bottle of the newest Jovoy, Incident Diplomatique. It is more unique, dry, the vetiver smoky. I think patchouli and vetiver make a better fragrance accord, than the patchouli amber/ labdanum and vetiver accord of Private Label. Patch and vetiver are both very earthy herbs. The amber here seems to smooth out the earthiness of patch and vetiver; which is OK, but I prefer the amber to be left out. I ordered a second sample because I am considering purchasing a bottle in the Fall, for my 62 birthday in October, to cap off my collection with this great Oriental. I think I will. After a few minutes the sweetness and berry note settle, and I pick up on a slightly sweet patchouli, and smoky vetiver. On second application, I'm getting a smoky medecinal vib, and finally picking up on the green papyrus. The papyrus is the piquant note here, that does make this interesting, and somewhat distinct. The Patchouli is a bit stronger than the vetiver here, wheras in Incident Diplomatique, the smoky Java vetiver is strongest, and is dryer, less sweet, and more pungent. My favorite part is the opening, when the sweet hippy and medecinal patchouli are most prominent. It feels like a patchouli fragrance at this point. But the patch dominance fades into a more even accord with vetiver and amber or labdanum. Some reviewer said, this smells familiar. Yes, it doesn't smell unique, but the quality of notes and performance are suberb! It's patchouli, labdanum, papyrus, and vetiver. I pick up some woodiness, which is the sandalwood I guess. The leather is not noticable at all for me, I think it just hides in an accord with the patch and other notes. Actually, from the mid-drydown the leather comes to the fore, and becomes a bit more noticeable, as a birch tar/ leather note.. So it's nice how this evolves. It has a nice drydown of mostly vetiver and sandalwood, that really lasts. They wanted to make a great Oriental frag without, Oud. They did a great job. I love woody orientals, and this has many of my favorite notes, all so well blended. It's very natural, earthy, woody, slightly medecinal, cozy and pleasant. Rating: 9/10 God bless. John 3:16

Another Dark Lord Masterpiece I have been after Private Label for a while. I always wanted to have a Cecile Zarokian piece of art. The first ever perfume I sampled from her creations was "Tango" from Masque Milano, and created an idea on her style of perfumery. Private Label, may be her best creation so far. It has class, it is refined, it is vintage & modern, and the name says it all. As a patchouli lover, who tends to love more the rough, cold, and boozy take on patchouli, this HAD to be in my collection. It is so unique, so unique, as it is hard to pair it with another patchouli-vetiver fragrance. It is definitely my second favorite scent after Monsieur. from FM. Is it polarizing? I don't think so. Does it require to love patchouli? YES!!! So guys, if you don't like the rough patchouli, the boozy one, smoky one, stay away from Private Label. It is the least sweet patchouli I own, and the leather accord along with sandalwood only try hard to calm down the smokiness of this fragrance. Definitely not summer fragrance, but if you wear it 20 min before going out on a summer night it will work. Smoky fragrances need fresh-air to explode and reveal their true olfactory identity. Don't doubt projection, sillage and its lingering power - it projects heavily, the trail is sexy, mysterious, intriguing, like you want to follow this dark mysterious person into the unknown. I don't find any similarities with Hommage a L'Homme-Voyager which I own for 7 years now aside from sharing similar notes. I really cannot imagine a woman wearing Private Label unless she is in love with Janis Joplin!!! Since I love Monsieur. more than this, I do get it why some people compare it to Monsieur., and it must be due to the rough cold style of patchouli or because both are sophisticated masculine (slightly animalic) patchouli bombs. Worth it!!!!

Jovoy Private Label , Spectacular and Pure I would say. It may not work for everybody , completely understandable because Vetiver, Patchouli, leather are not for all, in other words it needs time to appreciate them in most of the cases. Now Guerlain vetiver, TomFord Vetiver ,Original Vetiver , Roja Vetiver all are good but more approachable because the Vetiver is kept in that way may be because of Citrus and some other notes and you will notice Roja vetiver and TF-GV is darker and same happens with Encre Noire , Sport variant is lighter with Citrus where LAX and OG is darker (with Cypress) but one thing is for sure the Ingredient in Jovoy PL seems to natural to excellent level cause I am getting the same transition/experience which I get from Pure Vetiver Oil from M. L. Ramnarain, Md Ayub Md Yaqub so quality is unmistakenably excellent so is the Performance I got Latest batch few days back and I am getting 16 Hrs+ longevity and solid 5 hours of projection (it is moderate and that's what happens with naturals) if any one who tried vetiver oil (Ruh Khus) would clearly understand what I am saying. What I am getting is in J-PV, vetiver is like actual Oil just blooms and also soft leathery undertone (Labdanum-Papyrus) along with chocolate-y Patchouli , here I find Patchouli as secondary note to provide more depth and earthiness however Mugler A-Men is way more earthy in it's drydown so the scent is not about Patchouli ,use of Sandalwood is also divine ,through out journey sandalwood is maintaining the creamy-smoothness also contributing to aromaticness, I am loving the way it wears I am getting leather along with spicy-sweetness , aromatic (Veti-Patc inherent profile) . All in all it is excellent vetiver and all other secondary notes are dancing hand-in-hand to glorify the vetiver.

Post work, sniffing through the scent-drobe again. It's really relaxing.. helps me remember the beauty of the world in the midst of the madness and chaos. So I got around to this one and was like..why does this smell so good? The patchouli here is complementing, adding atmosphere, 1% moisture and about 00.1% sweetness. Just enough to curb the green woody bitterness. And the sandalwood is smoothing out some areas while leaving others untouched. But this is a vetiver fragrance. An earthy, leather, dry, smoky, woody vetiver. Though smoky, I get no bbq on my skin. In character, it's no nonsense classy, contrasting candor with mystery and edge with polish. In it's restraint and relative simplicity it does feel.. private. Unto itself. Being almost coincidentally exclusionary in that it doesn't seek to please everyone. No frills here and I absolutely love that there is no sweetness. I find it addictive. Unless it's an extreme case, I've long stop tracking the endurance of a fragrance. I just enjoy it while it lasts. However I couldn't help but notice that I've smelled this many days later on clothes. "Side note" I thought Incident Diplomatique sat somewhere between this and Psychedelique so I passed it along. I saw another guy here who pretty much noticed the same thing. Though I dont agree that if you have 1 Jovoy you dont much need to get others. I've tried a few that smell nothing like the three I mentioned here. Case in point, Private Label and Psychedelique are very different from each other. "2nd side note" Cécile Zarokian has become one of favorite perfumers. I only this and Royal Tobacco by her, but I have to try more from her. She's excellent.

Love! I already bought a bottle. The best vetiver based scent I've ever smelt.. and quite strong.. very strong! This is my first impressions, not a full review. I'm still evaluating it but I can say that I get vetiver, patchouli, papyrus (well ballanced and well mixed, you won't smell like a piece of paper), beautiful sandalwood, a leathery essence which could be an effect from the vetiver -if it's natural, I don't know- or anything else, I don't think that this scent contains leather note. This is not leather but something that reminds leather for sure. And it has a moderate smokiness on the whole blend. Beautiful. At the early opening, I get something like ink, but this could be a subeffect from the note combo. The vetiver is extremely earthy/rooty, very dry & slightly dusty, slightly sour at the late dry down, deep and different than any other vetiver based scent I've ever smelt. There's also a camphorous-minty-medicinal effect especially at the opening which I LOVE! When I firstly smelt it, came to my mind something like a green/camphorous/oud or heavy natural patchouli with something else.. but it's different, it's the strongest and the best smelling vetiver IMO. Very masculine.. very manly and strong. Excellent sillage and projection. Almost arabic strength. And it seems to be a very long lasting scent but still I'm evaluating it, I can't give numbers. There's not even a trace of sweetness here, it's all about a woody-earthy-green/leathery-patchouli/vetiver combo with vetiver being the boss. This is Art.. masculine Art. Higly recommended for the vetiver lovers and for those women who like wearing masculine scents. Beautiful...

I’ll just say this: this is an advanced fragrance. It’s not for everyone. It requires a trained nose to be enjoyed. Very different from your designer type scents. It took me slowly test driving a 5ml decant for almost an entire month to realize what a treasure this is. To the untrained nose, it smells like someone mixed patchouli with cigarette ash and panther piss. Seriously. To the trained nose however, it triggers memories of places you may have visited in a different life; An old library of rare manuscripts. An aromatic Nordic wooden chapel with wax candles burning. The fireplace and old unique furniture in a room of some 19th century royal orientalist. It’s that powerful. Best for a 40+ year old I’d say. Too advanced for the younger nose. This fragrance starts out savage and even almost repulsive, but after 30-60 minutes dries down into an unparalleled masculine mist that is just irresistible. Its a heavier darker cousin of Incident Diplomatique. It’s designed for men, but can be enjoyed by both men and women. To my wife, it smells “like the super rich private club owner that owns a dozen Victoria Secret girls”. To me, it smells like the very ‘private’ study room in a cozy mansion hidden away near Lake Geneva where a few mysterious gentlemen are plotting the agenda of the next Bilderberg meeting! Oh and the packaging is superb. You can tell they tried to put quality into this product. Not for summer. Do not blind buy. Longevity: 7/10 Sillage: 7.5/10 Scent: 10/10* Price: 8/10 * highly subjective

So let me get this straight. A fragrance that is comprised of patchouli (love it), vetiver (love this stuff even more), papyrus (my favourite woody note in perfumery), a leather accord (yes please), sandalwood (always welcome) and labdanum (no objection whatsoever). It's described as ‘dark’ and ‘smoky' for good measure...and I’m supposed to resist its charms? Chance would be a fine thing. Private Label by Jovoy is masterfully calibrated. Individual components are given their moment to shine but never at the expense of the whole. To begin with it’s primarily a vetiver fragrance, manipulated to impart a sense of refinement that is rare for the genre. This immediately plays off against a rugged patchouli – not overtly down and dirty but ready for a scrap if need be, its raw edge brimming with intent alongside a quietly smouldering labdanum. Papyrus and leather provide tactile resonance: the serenity of thumbing through aged parchment; the comfort of a well-worn jacket. Finally – and quite beautifully, I should add – there’s a smooth sandalwood that comes imprinted with a lick of salt. Put it all together and, for me, the scene is set, that of an unapologetically old-style steakhouse full of nostalgic charm - dark wood panelling and tufted leather booths, the faint glow of amber lighting casting shadows through which trail plumes of cigar smoke, the aroma of prime rib and just a whiff of testosterone. I’ve fallen for Private Label, and fallen hard. A modern classic in my books.

The brooding beauty that is Private Label: a damp November of matted vegetation, loam and peat, stirred and folded, the leaves swiftly falling from the trees and the branches are bare again. Its assemblage of vetiver, patchouli, and cypriol (also known as nagarmotha or "nut grass") render this tawny, thick and boozy. Cypriol (Cyperus scariosus R.Br.), closely related to the papyrus plant for which we are most familiar, has shown usage only more recently in modern-day perfumery. Its complexity is staggering: it somehow shapeshifts between dry and moist, with the sensation of smoked wood and leather, with overtones of black pepper and bay leaf. In Private Label, it seems to amplify the vetiver and patchouli, thickening and emulsifying them. There is such a saturated quality that is so satisfying to me, bitter, nutty, grassy, earthy, mouth-watering. One slant of Private Label distinctly recalls the peaty thump of Laphraoig, smoky malted barley and dank topsoil. Yet another slant is of the late autumn sun warming waning vegetation. Yet nothing feels necessarily too coarse, it's got a velour finish to the nose in its dry down. I would agree with others who enjoy Private Label that it has a hypnotic quality to it, feeling like an antidote to what heavy woody-amber infused brutes that attempt the same effects. Its organic feel may, however, make some noses wince, especially if the humans attached to them are diehard city folks not accustomed to communing with nature.

Something about this reminded me of another scent I couldn’t figure it out until it clicked and I realized it smells like amouage silver oud but actually enjoyable. When I sampled silver oud I kept thinking wow this is horrible but there something there I really like it was just hidden under a layer of poo. And I’ve never smelt poo in perfume before. When everyone else complains bout fecal notes I never get that but in silver oud it was strong. But in this scent I just get all the beautiful aspects of silver oud without feeling like it’s lost any depth. Masculine mature sophisticated effervescent woods and roots. Something to keep in your possession for life! And I have very high standards for macho scents Update: first of all can I just say if you are a grown man past 25 complaining about a scent being too masculine and mature yet iiiiiiiiiii can wear it easily go get your hormones checked. Yall wanna smell like pastries at the age of 40. Don’t piss me off ....lol . This is pure earth. This smells like the core of our beautiful Mother Earth. It smells like a hidden temple forgotten rituals deep in the heart of Congo jungle to me. Wake tf up and get in touch with the soil we came from

Very interestingly wierd mature gourmandish-frosty blue-green scent. The top note starts oily boozy, for the first 15 minutes it holds on with smell of smoked pork neck and mustard, then it moves into a completely unrelated menthol scent of an ancient ointment for sore joints, what the...neither one is bad, as a combination it is extremely wild. Good sillage, longevity is subpar, it stays at its maximum for about 2-3 hours and then completely fades away, no gradual retreat. I dont know what to think about it. You could probably pull this off even to night theatre performance. Will have to try this once again in near future... Attempt No. 2 - colder morning - no boozyness or oily start, not s much meaty, jumps directly to menthol and repeatedly oscilates between minty ointment, pleasant peppermint drink, tad of smoky incense and hard black leather. It is dominant scent for confident wearer, you dont have to take on bikers jacket, but a substantial determination in your persona should be present at days of wearing. Sillage confirmed strong, but longevity for sure not eternal niether long lasting. Did not last on skin from morning till lunch.

Beautifully written review by Ed Wardian. I was wondering if you changed your fragrantica name from Colin Mailard, or Darvant. Your writing style reminds me much of those 2 Italian gents. They mostly review on Basenotes. It's been a while since I wore Private Label. I was craving the Papyrus note in this. Papyrus is the stand out, piquant note here. Otherwise, this is a well blended woody Oriental. It has a good dose of the patchouli Jovoy uses in their great patch fragrance, Psychodlic. Then there is a solid vetiver, labdanum, and leather. None of the notes dominate, and neither is too soft, or too far in the background. I was having trouble identifying this fragrance, as a Vetiver fragrance, woody, or a Patchouli fragrance; or is it an Ambery Oriental? As Ed Wardian said, it is also vegetal. Mostly from the great papyrus note and green vetiver. I like that it's vegetal, it balances the woody notes nicely. It is a little like French Lover, in frequency and balance. The balance of green vegetal with dryer woods. It's a solid fragrance, that performs well. It may be similar to many fragrances, except for the Papyrus note.

IT'S ONE OF BEST PERFUME THAT I EVER HAVE IN MY LIFE. BEGINS WITH REALLY BITTER AND SMOKEY SCENT. MAYBE BECAUSE OF MIXING VETIVER AND PATCHOULI MAKE SOMETHING OUDY(I DON'T KNOW). AFTER 1 HOUR IN BEHIND LEATHERY SCENT START TO EMERGE. NOT ANIMALY LEATHER.IT'S KIND OF REALLY SWEET SUGARY LEATHER WITH PATCHOULI THAT MAKE HEAVEN SCENT. REALLY HEAVEN SCENT AND KEEP ON FLOURISH(LEATHER NOTE) WHICH AFTER 4 HOUR YOU HAVE LEATHERY NOTE WITH VETIVER NOTE BEHIND THAT. REALLY MASTERPIECE!!BRAVO MR ZAROKIAN. LAST ON CLOTHES EASILY 2 DAYS AND PROJECTION ABOUT 6 HOURS FROM 1 FOOT.10/10 واقعا یکی از بهترین عطرهایی که داشتم و دارم همین شاهکار است. در ابتدا یک بوی تلخ اوودی شکل می دهد که شاید به خاطر ترکیب عجیب وتیور و نعناع باشد. بویی که به هیچ وجه من تجربه نکرده بودم. اون پشت بوی چرم داره کم کم پیش میاد.بعد از حدود 4 ساعت حالا شما با یک بوی چرم طرفید که به هیچ مجه حیوانی نیست بلکه کاملا شیرین و خوردنی است. یه چیزی تو مایه های چرم 1740.حالا بوی نعناع و وتیور در پس زمینه داره می تازونه و بوی چرم واضحه. واقعا یه شاهکاره این عطر.ماندگاریش به راحتی 2 روز روی لباس دوام میاره و پخشش به راحتی 6 ساعت از فاصله حداقل یه قدمی میاد.

Fantastic, spectacular, extremely fascinating. Purchased a sample because I was looking for a smoked leather, as per the olfactory pyramid. The fragrance perfectly met the expectations and expectations placed on it, from the first spray. Spectacular, both in duration and projection, neither exaggerated nor completely absent. The raw materials then seem exceptional, every note is perfectly perceived, above all papyrus and leather. If you are looking for something that reminds you of a tannery where they also fire-brand leather, you are in the right place. Today, a few months after I purchased the sample after reading the notes, I notice that here on Fragrantica the leather has mysteriously and inexplicably disappeared from the olfactory pyramid, when in reality it is a fundamental and very evident note in every evolution of the fragrance, therefore so if you don't like leathers this perfume should be totally avoided. I hope that the admins of the site will fix the olfactory pyramid, bringing it back to how it originally was to avoid anyone being disoriented by reading the various reviews.

Private Label conjures a magical mystery tour of a rich amber blot floating over the terrestrial, the vegetal, the balsamic that haunts every nook and cranny of the olfactive... Collectively a leather bound trail toasting a holy communion of dark green and resin, Private Label opens with a naturally parched papyrus and its masala scroll inked by a grand design of spicy Java vetiver and deeply zesty patchouli, morphing into a petrolized vinaigrette deepened into the crease of a moist sandalwood, lit up in birch, sharpened in cedar edges and touched up with the tasty vanille facet of cistus, merely climaxing into an inebriated coriaceous fume; one that is tastefully direct and not for the faint. Simply, here is ‘presence’ and ‘intrigue’ as main ingredients for a unique label that may appear challenging yet is so seductive in its assertion. Truly more than a cimmerian beauty, Private Label pulses with a golden brown core that is shimmering, illicitly welcoming, naturally beckoning and waiting to be unleashed for a harvest moon... Ahh, fetching!

This is a beastmode fragrance. I will have to say it's my second favorite fragrance next to sont faints in the line which I own. This is a fragrance that shines to me on the dry down. The opening really does pack a punch. It almost reminds me of smelling nail polish. The leather note screams dirty and the notes are right on as listed. This is a manly mans man fragrance all the way. These bottles and presentation s are so nice. They are just as heavy as the parfum de marly bottles. Thick beautiful transparent glass with a beautiful heavy shiny cap. Presentation is perfect. But the smell is nice, it's just very strong and long lasting. I would say two sprays is more than enough and its lasts on my skin for 15hours plus...it's ridiculous. On clothes forget about it. This is definitely a must try if you are in to dark, leather, vetiver earthy patch type of scents. Go for 100ml..I find them discounted all the time for like $135 shipped. Very nice overall rating 8.5/10

Judging by the reviews, this is obviously a fragrance that performs entirely differently on different skins- even more so than other scents, that is. On me, strangely, this fragrance behaves beautifully and presents all the notes and their complex, harmonious accord. Earthy, strong and carnal, but very chic, this gives distinct vetiver, leather, patchouli, all balanced mid-air by an imperceptible thread of sweetness (this is a dry juice otherwise). For me, it's masterful, truly. Great longevity and sillage, not for the trigger-happy, though. Best to show restraint. It stays complex, which is very important to me, as I don't like linear scents. I will get a full bottle for winter. I understand people who find it masculine-leaning but I find it unisex (however, I usually go for nuclear perfumes). Jovoy is now my favourite house. Not because I can necessarily wear their scents every day, but because creatively, they are challenging me in the best way possible.

Private Label of Jovoy Paris by the nose Cécile Zarokian is another rare pearl in the panorama of the refined and prestigious fragrances of the Jovoy Paris maison; Private Label is the memorable exaltation of vetiver and leather, absolute protagonists in the opening notes, they appear enveloping, smoky and persuasive, evoking mysterious and fascinating Middle Eastern atmospheres, with warm and reassuring central notes of patchouli and sandalwood, the resinous base notes are magnificently represented by the French labdanum. Exquisitely oriental fragrance, triumphant, absolutely free of Oud. Personally my olfactory memory associates this elegant and inimitable fragrance with the perfume of Greek Orthodox churches, usually impregnated with Jeddah olibanum and incense, even with some precious oriental elm antique furniture usually used as a spice holder, it is absolutely not a note of demerit. Magnetic sillage. Notable duration.

Private Label is a strong, dense fragrance striking from the beginning with a blast of a mixture of patchouli and vetiver with the supporting sandalwood, papyrus and labdanum. Therefore don't expect any citruses, anything fresh- you are spiralling instantly into a dry-down phase of many high-class masculine fragrances composed of those notes. But. The quality is very high and you get the idea that the author knew what she wanted to achieve. You have this wonderful blend of ''basenotes'' put in a magnificent, elegant, boastful, still warm and serious way and you feel like a millionaire. It's good for colder months of course and better at nights. The performance is superb in all aspects. I think the scent itself is leaning strongly towards masculine side, but within the development gets sweeter and thanks to labdanum/milky-smoky sandalwood can be worn by any sex. Soooo good.

Private Label’s opening is mouth-puckeringly astringent in its dryness, hitting you like a punch in the face. After a few moments, soft sandalwood and warm patchouli begin to draw in, providing a bit of humid relief before the downpour of a bright and beautiful, crisp vetiver brings immediate life to the scent. On my skin, which turns everything sweet, the richness of the labdanum in the drydown swings Private Label from a sharp, dark woody scent to a complex, smoky amber fragrance (the birch tar smells almost black like thick smoke and leather jackets deep in the background), but that earthiness, that damp woodiness of the vetiver and the patchouli always seems to stand strong, and the entire composition is undeniably sophisticated, yet brutish. It is among one of my absolute favourites. I also agree entirely with the review left by @apentias back in 2021.

Wow. Made the mistake of doing 4 sprays at around 9am, and I think I paid dearly for it. Friends were complaining about it across the conference table 2 hours AFTER the spray. It was still going strong 6 hours in, and even after my afternoon shower at 6pm, I could still smell traces on my wrist. Such a majestic fragrance. I feel inadequate trying to understand what PL is really all about. I mean, I see the notes, but what I get instead is booziness off the spray, and incense as time goes by. I guess this is what a dark blend of Vetiver, Leather and Patchouli should be. The longer it goes, the smoother the scent becomes but its clear that this is a beast of a fragrance. Only the most bold can carry this with confidence. Strong presence, indeed. I would love to have this in my collection, but I feel I'm not even worthy of the 5ml decant I have. Haha