Parfum d'Ete 1992

The smell of an ever-warming spring. May is fast approaching and soon the ground cover will include that of lily of the valley in bloom, but also that of the less-celebrated but beautiful smelling Canada mayflower (Maianthemum canadense) with their aroma reminiscent of laundry taken in fresh from the line and imbued with light indoles. Also in May, there blooms the starflower (Lysimachia borealis) on the woodland floor, which have little fragrance of their own, but would make for a great spring floral fantasy note for their beauty and adjacency to the aforementioned. Parfum d'Ete (1993 version) smells to me like all three flowers together, quite watery, crisp, and brisk. I also smell a peony accord, smelling fresh, plump, on the verge of overripe, with rosy overtones. Truthfully, it's one of the best peony representations I've encountered thus far. I can almost envision the industrious little ants scurrying around their blooms, taking part in the mutualism between the two organisms. The peony provides and the ants protect. Parfum d'Ete is really a garden taking us from the height of spring into summertime, hinting at the humidity, dew, and fecundity of the season. There is a languid quality that persists through the dry down, the lily of the valley carrying all other flowers like a chaperone into ever growing heat and restlessness of the approaching summer. As they begin to wither, they pass their reign to ever fleshier, leafier, abundant woods, fading into moss, roots, woods, and undergrowth, swallowing all until next year, growing ever more humid and sensuous. Moments of the dry down are reminiscent of honey and beeswax scented soap. Sadly, this version was replaced by a 2002 version that, while nice, has nowhere near the impact as the original.

Parfum d'Ete came into my life in the '90s (original formulation). It took me time to fully appreciate this gem. You see, it starts off as a slightly baffling watery green jasmine, admittedly perfect for warm weather. So what? The beauty of this is the way it develops, moving through three distinct phases. The marketing really wasn't kidding: this perfume describes a summer's day/hot day. 1) Freshness: the 'morning' starts off in a soft way, with the green notes of dew on grass, the dots of white flowers, moving to 2) Languid heat: a midday of lily and what seems like a lotus note (not listed), radiating in the hot sun. There's an aquatic feel, recalling a pool or a river. 3) Sensuous dusk: the base notes reflect the earthiness and muskiness of a park or wooded area that's been heated all day and is now taking its turn to release its own fragrance. I've sat in the garden at dusk or walked in the park later afternoon on a summer's evening (UK) and noted how the scents changed: grasses and trees giving off great waves of a dark musky green that wasn't present in pure daylight. Parfum d'Ete behaves like that. But the jasmine comes back, echoing the innocent start to the perfume and saying "I'm different now." In spite of the wild aspect to it, it is a soft, well behaved and romantic fragrance. But it's clever, too. It's three perfumes in one, taking you from commute to desk to night out (in a non COVID world). It's one of the masterpieces in my collection, but the frosted teardrop bottle has gone slightly funky. I started buying the new leaf bottle in the 2000s and naively thought they'd just changed the design, then realised it didn't smell the same. I didn't fully understand about reformulations at the time.

I also have the old original and it is nearly empty now, alas. I still have several minis of the glass leaf bottle--(Kenzo's bottles are gorgeous!) For such a fresh, wet, green fragrance, I find it quite lasting and it does absolutely invoke summer for me. I also like Kenzo's original fragrance, in the round-ish bottle, altough that was a more sophisticated and dressy mood for me. I once sold a bottle of Kenzo's men's scent, the one in the black bottle shaped like a tree with a sculptural bark finish and the fresh, unisex quality, to Carly Simon when I worked for "Cosmetics Plus" in NYC back in the early 90's. I love his scents and his packaging--they are both very original and artistic! The closest thing I have found to Parfum D'ete, is Jennifer Lopez's "Love and Glamour"--although it is no where near as long lasting!

I was given a mini of this awhile back, it was the original version, and UGH I ADORED it!!! so fresh, dewy, green and clean with a damp mossiness to it and a coy, yet luscious white floral sweetness that makes it smell so feminine, innocent and rounded. I went to store and they only had the new reformulation for sale. They had no tester, so I had to purchase it blind. When I got back home and tried it, I wanted to hurl! It was so coarse, shallow, dry and flat in comparison to the lush dewiness of my mini, simply like mowed grass, nothing more. So I went and returned it the next day. The old version was so beautiful, the clean, lush, nostalgic vibe I got from it reminded me of another discontinued favorite, Oceanus perfume oil from The Body Shop.

A very feminine green floral. Verdant and juicy, with a subtle natural sweetness from peach. It makes me think of lush green meadows, wet leaves, warm rain, soft sunlight, and sweet smelling flowers drenched in dew. There is also a hint of 'luxury shower gel' in it that makes me think of being pampered at day-spas. It's from the early 90's, but it doesn't smell dated at all. The most beautiful spring/summer scent I've ever owned, and it belonged to my mother who passed it down to me. Moderate sillage, and longevity is excellent for a warm weather scent. Unfortunately I can't find this in shops, so I've resorted to buying good quality imitation oils. I'm happy enough with the fakes I have for now.