Fleur Universelle

“Fleur Universelle” – the flower that would stand for all flowers. Many would at once name the rose, primal queen of the garden; others, lured by nocturnal sweetness, would summon jasmine; yet others, charmed by winter’s lacquered grace, would point to the camellia. But my heart, in secret inclinations unlike theirs, turns unfailingly to the chrysanthemum. Born in the mists of the southeastern lands, she journeyed afar and, with a beauty almost unearthly, laid quiet claim to every realm she entered. Around her, a perfumed haze arises: cardamom and pink pepper drift upon a languid intoxication of rum, as though one had been wrapped in a pashmina of rare fineness, both homely and sumptuous, warding off the chill of evening while whispering of distant courts. None of these accords raises its voice above the others; with a restraint born of great artistry, they mingle and subdue themselves into a single, downy softness, tinted as though with a carmine glow glimpsed through silk. Cinnamon and immortelle continue the delectable, ambered warmth, while myrrh, grave and resonant, lends its shadowed depth and gravity. Thus is the heart of this fragrance rendered: deep, yielding, plush to the touch of the mind. The spices, though gentle and measured, cannot be overlooked; they speak distinctly, like the petals of an Atsumono chrysanthemum, each one set in ordered ranks, intricately cut, faintly gleaming, steeped in the noblest of hues. In its rounded fullness, so precise and nearly flawless, that blossom recalls the fragrance’s own scented sphere—steady, even, complete. Yet to behold the true heart of the chrysanthemum, one must watch in patient attentiveness, waiting as the outermost petals slowly part. Its inmost core lies hidden beneath countless layers of coloured, satin-smooth folds. So too with this composition: it entices and cannot be resisted, drawing one closer with each inhalation, each breath revealing another veil withdrawn, until at last its secret radiance surges forth, a sudden brightness welling from within. Tonka, patchouli, and Lorenox trace, with almost unsettling fidelity, the stem and leaves of this imagined bloom. They rise firm and steadfast, a deep green made tactile, with a light, velvety wood-grain under the fingers of the mind. Never do they turn bitter; yet they refuse the fragile, grassy air of less noble growth, standing instead as the strong architecture that upholds such splendour. From ancient China she first emerged, this chrysanthemum, and in time made all the world her dwelling. For her myriad colours and forms, for the remedies hidden in her nature, people of many lands have bowed their heads in admiration. The one enclosed within this perfume is the Atsumono: her tightly curved petals interlock like some venerable puzzle whose secret only time can solve. She glows in antique gold, each edge traced in terracotta-red, as if the last light of autumn had settled upon her. One glance at her robs the breast of breath and sets the heart to beating like a ceremonial drum. No traveler who passes her remains untouched; no eye that once has rested upon such opulence can ever forget it. Universally desired, silently revered, she is among those very few flowers that reach inward to the same place in every soul, and there, without words, speak.

In 'Fleur Universelle', the warm-sand scent of the everlasting flower is enhanced by rum and cinnamon and spiced up with pink pepper and cardamom. It is a comforting and mesmerizing scent. Sweet caramel facets of rum blend effortlessly with cinnamon's warming spiciness in the opening notes. Pink pepper and cardamom offer inward reflection and further piquant accord. Slowly as if a cautiously opening bloom, the eponymous immortelle flower is noticed. Its unique scent profile is so expertly blended with the other components as to be nearly seamless in its transition. Immortelle's dusty, ambery and caramelic facets are put on full display. Here additions of myrrh and tonka bean swirl in and out of focus contributing hay-like qualities and hints of resinous depth. Patchouli and a synthetic "Lorenox" note (woody, ambery, and aromatic) complete the fragrance's base. For me this fragrance epitomizes autumn, carrying with it a clever comfortableness which invites long embraces. It leans masculine due to its heavy reliance upon amber, spice and woody notes, but may be certainly enjoyed and worn by women as well. 'Fleur Universelle' is captivating in that it can be successfully suited for causal encounters as well as reserved for more formal occasions. It brandishes a definite sensuality, wrapping its wearer in both luxury and comfort. Those close enough to smell its beauty will most certainly be drawn nearer to gain an additional whiff. Read my complete review at my personal blog:

Fleur Universelle was a blind buy for me... the bottle is majestic, and the juice doesn't disappoint. Well, sort of. This is an example of an oriental perfume at its best. It's warm, spicy, alluring, with a strong presence. It's not feminine, but that doesn't bother m; in my opinion, this is unisex leaning slightly masculine. It is so well blended and smooth, despite the spices, I can't help but love it. I read opinions saying that the flower in its name must be the immortelle. Immortelle in my experience smells a bit like maple syrup, and I can't detect much of that here. What I smell is myrrh . Lots of it, along with Amber, woods, booze, which smells more like cognac to my nose than like rum, and spices. If there is immortelle here it's dry and herbal. The lasting power is pretty good and the silage isn't bad either. A pleasant surprise, not cheap, so interesting. Recommended only to women who like unisex orientals, as this, under any stretch of imagination, could not be called floral, despite its name, or to sexy and elegant men.

وقتی اولین استشمام رو انجام میدید شاید شما رو یاد زمانی بندازه که درب دبه ترشی رو باز میکنید . البته بسیار سریع این وضعیت تغییر میکنه . به چند نفر هم تست دادم گفتند بوی نوشیدنی الکلی میده بعد از اون 1 دقیقه اولیه، عطر حالتی کهربایی پیدا میکنه و در کنار اون شما رایحه ای تلخ، کمی دودی، کمی تند و البته تعادلی میان شیرینی و ترشی رو حس خواهید کرد . که تلخی عطر به سایر نوت ها میچربه کمی بعد حالت خاکی، پودری و البته خشک مانندی به عطر اضافه میشه که رایحه دارچین در راس اون قرار داره و شما رو تا آخرین نفس های لالیک یونیورساله همراهی میکنه ماندگاری عطر روی پوست خوبه و روی لباس بسیار بهتر . اگر بعد از یه روز کاری، لباستون رو داخل کمد بزارید و فردای اون روز برید سراغ لباس و دوباره بوش کنید بوی غالب صمغ مرّ و کمی دارچین رو حس خواهید کرد که بسیار بسیار شعیف شدند . در کل عطر دوست داشتنی هست برای کسانی که عطرای اسپایسی متعادل رو دوست داشته باشند . یعنی عطرشون تعادلی میان تلخی، شیرینی و ترشی باشه که از نظر من لالیک کارش رو خوب انجام داده و یه عطر خاص رو روانه بازار کرده که ارزش تست و کاوش کردنش رو داره .

This is complex but light and a little earthy, the opening is very short, only lasts for a few minutes then goes straight to mid and base notes. In the far dry down and for the rest of the duration, the predominant notes are animalic myrrh, cinnamon, and tonka beans. On my skin, I've got moderate projection and sillage of 2hr, and average longevity of about 6hr. This one sits pretty close to the skin and kinda subtle, I wouldn't hesitate to wear it to the office, it would work in Spring and Fall, it's not sharp enough to cut through the Winter cold and wouldn't be my first choice as summer scent. I can go heavier on the sprayer without choking anyone out though, 5 to 6 sprays should be fine (both side of neck, back of neck, both inner elbows, and one on the chest and you're good to go. You can find them from discounters for about $100, which is a fair price. Great presentation, very nice and shinny wooden box, and the bottle is gorgeous!