Ombre Noire

So we come to the fifth of the five Lalique reviews in this series and the first that isn't technically an Encre Noire flanker, but in my opinion may as well be. Ombre Noire was released in 2017 and this time it is the turn of Karine Dubreuil-Sereni on nose duties to deliver. Like the other four, this was a total blind buy and I deliberately didnt look at a lot of reviews for it online before I tried it on skin so I could make my own judgements. The immediate reaction on spraying was that this is a radically different beast to any of the Encre Noires and is not enjoyable at all for the first four or five minutes. I really, really wasn't sure on this in the opening and couldn't for the life of me see how it would or could ever be something I'd ever wear. Half an hour later and I was chuckling to myself at how wrong I was. Wow. I've had some crap fragrance takes in my life but that one was a doozy. Ombre Noire goes full on villain and then has its own incredible, soaring redemption arc just in the first twenty minutes. It is a wild ride. It is a bit confused and chaotic at first. There is a peppermint note that just floors you because you aren't expecting it and it seems to jar with whatever else is going on. What is going on here????? But as it calms it cools - figuratively and literally - and you get the booze and patchouli. The mint works off the patchouli and it all goes a bit good vs evil, battle of the planets for a while while it goes back and forth. The booze is really good single malt. The searing, peaty, aggressive kind that they sell in special, hushed alcoves in airports. I don't think it is cognac, as the notes suggest. Not to my nose anyway. So if the top is calming patchouli and some mint, the mids is a no man's land battlefield of whiskey and tobacco (curiously not the smokey kind but the leaf, it is fresher and not burned which is sort of surprising and I think a nice touch) fighting the green accords, the base is cedar (not sandalwood; another interesting choice that stops this from going a bit derivative, love that) and some myhhre and tonka beans to add a smooth sweetness that the whole experience needs. I get 4-5 hours off this so perhaps surprisingly it has the least longevity of the five but it isn't an all dayer layer and doesn't need to last you 12 hours. The drydown brings more of the cinnamon and rich tobacco to the experience as the boozy note start to recede. It is one of the most clearly stratified fragrances I have encountered: the head, heart and base are distinct and easily discernable on their own, but work together superbly. The accords here are all at once super intense and quite aggressive, but also soothing and calming. It is, by any stretch of the imagination, a really really fine bit of perfumery. THIS is the sort of fine fragrance I love. I would have given you some seriously long odds on me saying that when I first sprayed it. Not for the first or even tenth time whilst reviewing these five Lalique "Noires" I am at a loss to understand how and why this only costs US$30-35 a bottle. I'd happily pay three or four times that for this and again, I'd have given you long odds of me saying that on the chaotic opening sniff. Would I wear this? Absolutely yes. It is a formal fragrance that would be a bit of a stretch to wear to the office unless formally dressed but as a formal evening thing it is absolutely magnificent. Perhaps not as a suit and tie thing but evening out or something, for sure. If you are going to wear this with a suit, it is definitely not a tie and formal shoes kind of suit, but a dark suit with a dark shirt and slip ons sort of thing. Ombre Noire isn't an easy wear, is by some distance the least unisex of the five and almost certainly the one with the least mass appeal, but it is thoroughly absorbing and the movement on the skin and the way it goes back and forth is really fascinating. This is one you wear because you love it and care not even one jot what anyone else thinks. Right up my street in fact. Three Word Summary - Glorious Dark Chaos. Scent - 9/10 Drydown - 10/10 Sillage - 7/10 Bottle/packaging - 8/10 Performance - 6/10 40/50 the second highest score of the five and I'm as amazed as the rest of you about that.

Lalique's Ombre Noire is truly a marvel of perfumery. It is one of the finest compositions I've ever smelled, irrespective of price or prestige. In fact,.it stands shoulder to shoulder with the best of these creations, holding its own with relative ease. And the magic of the fragrance, lies in the dichotomous nature in which it presents. Ombre Noire opens in a paradoxically fresh manner, with a bright, yet bitter, bergamot, bringing a crisp burst of citrus that awakens the senses almost immediately. With it, there is an almost icy mint coming into play, muting the bitterness of the Bergamot while enhancing the brightness. This minty-citrus opening is accompanied by the addition of a beautiful fig leaf, adding a greenness to the composition, and just enough sweetness to bring balance, without dragging Ombre Noire into saccharine territory. And as the top notes fade, they do so with style, completely changing the olfactory landscape of the fragrance. Where first, was something that could truly be mistaken as a freshie, now stands something incredibly different. The citrus and mint gives way to a dry, toasted papyrus note, with a prominent cinnamon note, and finally, the tobacco we've been waiting for. The cinnamon is rich and vibrant, but not of the culinary variety in the slightest. No, the cinnamon here is raw and woodsy, made drier by the addition of the golden papyrus note, adding a wonderful roundness to the composition. However, neither of these would be enough without the tobacco note that makes it's presence known. And it is one of the most realistic tobacco notes I've ever smelled in any perfume to date. The overall impression is that of an incredibly high quality cigar, toasted to perfection before being lit. Incredibly stunning. However, I would be remiss if I didn't mention another lovely point of intrigue in the mid. As the mint fades, and the cinnamon comes to life, there is a moment where they mingle, a symphony of ice and fire, that by all accounts should not work, and yet, it not only does, it does so beautifully. As the drydown comes forward, the fragrance progresses yet again, however, in this phase of the journey, it is not a transformation as much as it is an evolution. The warm tobacco and cinnamon are joined by a gorgeously photorealistic cognac, further enhanced by a dry cedar and creamy tonka, and a smoky resin-incense brought about by the myrrh and olibanum. The cognac is smooth, dark, spicy and rich, the fruity and oaken undertones beautifully prominent, adding a very slight sweetness. The myrrh and olibanum are sweet and smoky, adding an oriental, middle-eastern vibe. However, it is far from arab-souk. It comes across as opulent, much like the imagery of royalty, of silks and spices. And it is this luxurious incense-tobacco-cognac combination that stays till the fragrance disappears like a whisper of smoke. Which brings me to the only gripe one could possibly have with Ombre Noire. It's longevity and projection, both of which are modest. However, I prefer it this way. Ombre Noire tells the tale of calm confidence and success. It is only fitting, then, that it needn't announce itself in a loud, or brash manner. Instead, sitting calmly, self contained and perhaps slightly aloof, as if only the deserving should bask in it's fragrance. And it is this aura of success that makes it a black-tie affair. Now, of course, you can wear your fragrances however you choose. But wearing it with a hoodie would not do it justice. Ombre Noire is Lalique's Magnum Opus. It is a perfect paradox in every way, from the unboxing, to the bottle, to the olfactory experience itself. It elevates common ingredients to a place rarely seen in perfumery, and does so with an elegance and perfection that is in stark contrast to it's modest price tag. It is, hence, doubly upsetting that it is rarely talked about. An underappreciated masterpiece if ever there was one!

Ombre Noire is, at least in my opinion, an incredible scent, a must sniff for lovers of booze, tobacco, and resins. The mid and base notes of the fragrance are not overly unique; combining tobacco, spices like cinnamon, resins like myrrh and olibanum, booze, and wood has been done before, though here it has been executed with particular panache. However, where Ombre Noire differentiates itself is with the addition of fig leaf and mint. This rush of greenery shoots through the fragrance like an electric shock. The mental image I get when I think of it is similar to a brick house overgrown with vines and creepers. A brazier of resins is burning inside the house, and you can vaguely smell it from afar. As you draw closer, you clear the vines away and open a door into a dark, dimly lit cedar room hazy with the smoke of incense and cigars. That’s the experience of Ombre Noire for me. As the fragrance dries down, the resins, wood, and tobacco become more prominent, but the green element never fully recedes, keeping an otherwise resinous tobacco fragrance somewhat fresh and unique. Finally, in the deep drydown you’re left with wisps of dry cedar, smokey tobacco, a melange of resins (which remain clumped together throughout the life of the fragrance; I don’t pick out myrrh or olibanum as individual notes, but rather as a blend), and a subtle hint of tonka sweetness. I would also be remiss if I didn’t mention the cinnamon. Cinnamon is very prominent in the fragrance, but don’t think of your typical sweet cinnamon powder. This is a dry, dusty cinnamon bark, paired with papyrus (which has a papery smell) to create an accord that really does remind me of walking through the souk in Marrakech and the rich, mingled scents of spices in the air. Some have compared the smell of this fragrance to garam masala, an Indian spice blend. I wouldn’t really go as far as that, but this is definitely not your holiday spice cinnamon candle kind of experience. The blend of cinnamon bar and papyrus, burning resins, smoky tobacco, dry cedarwood, and vibrant green mint and fig leaf create an incredibly wonderful, unique, and appealing scent profile. This is one of the few fragrances that have made me audibly say, “Oh my god!” upon first sniffing and keep my nose glued to my arm for hours afterwards. I was honestly expecting a little bit more longevity out of Ombre Noire, but I’m also perfectly fine with seven to eight hours, as that more than satisfies my perfume needs. This is a lot less hefty than the notes might suggest, and so the performance overall is a bit pared down compared to heavy hitters from Middle Eastern brands like Arabian Oud or Amouage. The projection and sillage of Ombre Nomade, on the other hand, are quite good. Ombre Nomade will also linger in a room after it’s been sprayed, always a sign of the quality of a perfume’s sillage. This is not a beast mode fragrance by any means, but people definitely won’t fail to smell you if you’ve got this on, and you might even get a compliment or two, too. This will leave behind a rich, complex, and alluring trail behind you, without being too strong or invasive. To me that’s the best kind of projection. Overall, Ombre Noire is an absolutely beautiful scent in my book, with a unique scent profile, beautiful bottle, and solid performance. Well worth seeking out if you can find a bottle for a decent price. 9/10

Definitely a masterpiece for anyone that enjoys woody/boozy fragrances in the realm of Gucci's Pour Homme I, and one that I admit I enjoy wearing for myself around the house much more than I imagined I would. I have several fragrances in this category and it's either because they are so niche that it's difficult to find the appropriate time and place to wear them, or because they are so loud and brash, such as 1 Million Intense, that unless it's very cold I don't want to chance a full wearing being I live in a mild, subtropical climate. I think this one is a victim of both, being heavily geared toward more formal situations and also a much cooler climate than I am in. But it's like the best fitted turtleneck sweater and a warm fireplace with my wife in the winter, sipping Amoretto and watching a good movie on Netflix. That's how I would describe the feel of this fragrance, and it's one that I just like to enjoy over and over again as often as I can. Regarding the performance, I find it to be much better than the ratings reflect. From what you see it shows an expected 4-6 hrs of longevity, while I easily get 8 hours respectively pretty much every wear. Now projection doesn't need to be loud with this one because it's sillage is thick and dense. It hangs around for a good while after you leave. I know because I let others borrow my fragrances to see how they perform around me in the air and this one shines in this regard. It's ultra classy. If you happen to notice a slight curry vibe in the opening, just let it set a few minutes and it will settle in and smooth out rather quickly. It's the fig leaf note mixing with the tobacco and cinnamon that gives you that sensation and it's only temporary. But I say if you are looking for a very nice, very classy and modern take on a woody/spicy/boozy amber then this is most definitely one worth checking out. I have no doubt it could be packaged in Xerjoff bottle and sold for $400 without question. So I think for this price it's a bargain!!! Packing/presentation -9/10 Scent - 9/10 Longevity - 7.25/10 Projection - 6.5/10 Sillage - 8.5/10 Overall score - 8.05/10

Light & Day. White & Black. Feminine & Masculine. Yin & Yang. The beauty of opposites with the use of contrast providing dynamic composition. Lalique's 2017 creation, Ombre Noire is a perfect representation of this converse revealing the dual Masks of Theatre in Melpomene's tragedy and Thalia's comedy in the journey of the wear. A travel that begins in cool calmness and ends in warm radiance. Bergamot in an uncommon bitterness, paired with frosty mint sets off the trek accompanied by an unexpectedly aromatic and sugary fig leaf with just enough greenness to narrowly escape an otherwise spiral descent into saccharine decadence. The two divides of Ombre Noire is bridged by the heavenly aroma of cinnamon, the spice extracted from the inner dried bark of the Cinnamomum Verum tree gifted by the island of Ceylon to the delight and eternal appreciation of the disciples of gastronomy. But this is not culinary cinnamon - this is raw, airy and woodsy made dry by the use of papyrus, the ancient writing material made originally from reeds growing in the marshy banks of the Nile river. The mental image conjured up by this odorous traverse is a wander on a damp forest bed canopied by lush expansive branches and leaves with just enough space for the gleeful escape of blades of sunlight crisscrossing themselves before piercing and lighting the grounds. And all this time the surroundings are gradually illuminated by a brightness in the distance which in time reveals itself as a sunny open field brimming with bales of hay basked in the glory of a blazing Sun. And it is this radiance that best describes the end of Ombre Noire where the resinous myrhh and olibanum made a pact and connived with tobacco leaves and cognac to end the journey in comforting warmth and shelter. A journey that started from the starkest contrast to where it ended - a true olfactory chameleon.