Eau de Lanvin

Eau de Lanvin is, at face value, an aromatic citrus-led cologne in keeping with other Eaux from similar brands. I have a tiny, very old vintage vial that was completely sealed until I opened it for the purpose of this review. Except EDL is more discordant than the likes of Ô de Lancôme/Eau de Guerlain et al. It is surprisingly dry, for a start, and the true civet musk in the base is pungent and fecal - not the usual accompaniment to a citrus cologne. EDL opens with bright verbena, herbal and lemony, bolstered by tart bergamot and lemon. Instead of fresh and juicy, it feels dry and pursed-lipped - like the citron note of Guerlain Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat. Soft spicy notes creep in, which, alongside the dry citrus, gives a potpourri-like quality. I get clove and pepper in particular, with a sprig of dried rosemary. The civet note develops in the background, something I haven't smelled often, but unmistakable based on reputation. It is animalic, dirty and fecal, almost balsamic alongside the herbal-spicy notes. It becomes woody and musky too as it dries down, fading to a dirtily musky skin scent after a time. Sillage and longevity are moderate - the performance is better than the average cologne. A true vintage cologne, EDL is unlike others I've tried, set apart by its pungent civet base. Not palatable for a modern audience, but I loved this regardless. A unisex spring/summer daytime scent that smells like times past. 4/5.