Arcana Rosa 9

Indeed Arcana Rosa bears a striking similarity to Le Labo's Rose 31 (both signed by Daphne Bugey). I feel though that the woods are drier in this composition and the overall performance is better when compared to a fresh sample of a recent formulation of Rose 31. The rose here is well augmented by a delicately sweet note of labdanum which does not spiral heavily with incense. The cedar is beautifully aromatic and fresh. Juniper lends a briar of something that leans toward a prickly antiseptic, but it's subtle yet well-textured, spicy and curiously inviting. Sandalwood is very soft and light blending the wood and rooty vetiver notes together well. In summary, Arcana Rose, although an aromatic beauty is a wild rose with a thorny dark character. I think those lamenting the discontinuation of Lancome Magnifique will be thrilled with this as an updated substitute.

Could this be my perfect rose? I agree with datura-darling that it feels gothic and velvety, like something an androgynous aristocratic vampire would wear or the most opulent rose incense burned in an old wooden church. The price point is pretty ridiculous but the quality speaks for itself and I'm turning 25 this month so I was able to justify buying it as it's a milestone birthday. I did smell it side by side with le labo rose 31 to see if I agreed with the reviews saying they're similar and to me they're cousins, both woody roses, but with different styles and personalities. I didn't like the sour, sharp quality of the cumin in rose 31, and found arcana rosa much deeper, darker and fuller, which I prefer.

I disagree with the reviews that day this is “indistinguishable” from Rose 31. It is very similar , but instead of cumin the supporting note is vetiver. Rose 31 is fresher and sharper; this is warmer and creamier. Do you need this if you have Rose 31? This is my current dilemma, although I think it will ultimately be a question of how much you love Rose 31. If you wear it frequently, then this is worth buying as it will give you something similar with slightly different vibes. Very unisex, a beautiful woody rose.

A spiny thorny dark crumbling rose. Perhaps roses left to wilt or pressed into a books pages as a keepsake. It does smell similar to Rose 31. But I have mixed feelings about Le Labo as a brand overall and I find the presentation here much more appealing. Gorgeous gothic bottle that looks like a an apothecary’s remedy. I’d rather have this bottle on my shelf than the millennial minimalism bottle of Rose 31, and I find this composition creamier and stronger. Overall this is a 9/10 for me.

A rose scent heavy with sandalwood; those are the stars of the show here. I can’t figure out if it is more masculine or more feminine... it really walks the unisex line to perfection in my opinion. Either way, my favorite in the line, truely a lovely scent. PS: This fragrance is very close in profile to Aesop’s Rozu.