Bucoliques de Provence

Leather and iris fragrances aren't wholly uncommon, and why should they be when the two notes complement each other so well. There are many beautiful examples too, Chanel No 19 EDT is always the first that comes to my mind, but then more recently Byredo's 1996, Dior Homme and Penhaligon's Iris Prima. These fragrances balance the iris and leather pairing in different ways, with No 19 keeping them light, green and soapy and Homme, 1996 and Iris Prima wrapping them up with sweeter cuddly notes, benzoin, cacao, amber. Bucoliques de Provence takes a different approach and lances the iris and leather with a clear and bold lavender. This striking lavender note opens the fragrance with a clean burn, in its own way piquant and soapy, ready to meet the powdery iris and soft leather head on. Bucoliques is, more than anything, a lavender fragrance. If I want iris, I'll reach for Bois de Iles, for leather, Cuir de Russie. But for lavender it has to be this one. Bucoliques de Provence's lavender opens strong and maintains throughout it's duration. I've always been partial to lavender as a note in men's fragrances, however, while Bucoliques is definitely unisex, the iris here places a gentle hand and guides this fragrance in a softer direction. The iris is flowery rather than rooty, and adds a soft blue haze over the top of the aromatic lavender. I'm strongly reminded of the iris in Hermes Gentiane Blanche - the use here is very similar. Where Gentiane Blanche has an incense note which wraps around the cool toned iris, Bucoliques has some definite spice, which at first to me seemed to have a slight cinnamon feel, but increasingly smells to me of the hotness of cloves. Cloves are one of those interesting spices which feel both hot and cool at the same time, and this two-toned spice note that prevails throughout Bucoliques also made me think of my beloved Vanilla & Anise from Jo Malone. The astringent lavender, powdery iris and the interwoven spice blend make for a scent which you can almost feel; the crumble of lavender flowers, dry crunch of cloves and silky iris petals. But the leather note, which feels much more suede-like in this composition, anchors it all down and melds it into your skin, giving such a natural, shower-fresh feeling - if one showered with exquisite natural soaps. And this is another pleasant feature of Bucoliques de Provence - that crystalised lavender is at once reviving and relaxing. I'm really very pleased with this fragrance - it's comforting and yet quietly complicated. I like that the spice of the lavender has been played up rather than down and that it wasn't overwhelmed by the other dominant notes, which could have made for a much less interesting scent. Really worth a sniff for lavender lovers, but also for those looking for a blue-toned scent without orris root or too much in the way of the sweetness of purple flowers. I could also see this appealing to vintage lovers, the strong lavender giving its best Victorian repose and in its own way, another interpretation of the blue hour.

Bucoliques and Mont de Narcisse are my bedtime staples. The leather is so cozy with the herbs and dried flowers. I purchase back up bottles of this when I find them discounted, and have noticed a distinct green herbal top note (basil or marjoram?) in two different bottles with batch code ED220Q. This note is absent from my original bottle, which was a 3 year old hand-me-down when I received it. I saw another reviewer mentioned “tomato leaf” which sounds similar to what I’m noticing. It doesn’t bother me, I actually enjoyed the added complexity but just want to make sure it’s authentic. Answers much appreciated! Thank you. Edit: After a bit more research I’ve realized that the sharper green note is most apparent right after shipping and then blends quite subtly as the fragrance settles. I have heard this is common with L’Artisan- and experienced it myself with several orders straight from the website. They smell different (or like nothing) directly out of the box, then improve with time after getting some air.

So ephemeral and sheer - part of it's beauty as well as a problem. It's just a whisper. The performance is much better in the warmth of the sun, but lately I've found it perfect to wear to sleep due undoubtedly to the soothing properties of the lavender. It really is a lovely scent, and it has grown on me quite a bit since I purchased it blind in the cooler months. I don't own anything similar. I'd say Memoire d'Une Odeur comes closest due to it's herbaceous nature, though they don't really smell alike. Right now, I'm about to drift off and I sprayed some on. I think that I am going to wear this a few times this week to see if I can sense anything beyond the three listed notes. I will say that the three of them are perfectly balanced! I really love the L'Artisan brand, and own quite a few of them. I've wanted to get my hands on Passage d'Enfer for years, and now that it's back in an Intense version, I need to grab it. Perhaps my next purchase?

Reading through the reviews here and how there are several different iris/leather fragrances mentioned for comparison or contrast, I am compelled to add my two cents worth. Alaia Extrait is hands down my favorite leather/iris. As rustic and charming as Bucoliques de Provence is, Alaia Extrait is is very urbane and sophisticated. It's also available online for significantly less than the EDP, which I also adore but not as much as the Extrait. I am amazed that it is so unsung here on Fragrantica, and torn between trumpeting it's glory vs keeping it to myself! As for Bucoliques, my review is bellow and still holds true.

I LOVE!! Not my usual scent profile at all. Shes my first “purple” fragrance but I’m obsessed. It’s so unique and cozy. I’m wrapped up in a blanket as I write this after spraying. It’s so comforting, and powdery. The lavender is indeed a main player here, but I think the subtle leather guides it into a creamy sophisticated fragrance instead of a spa like. I don't think its a safe blind buy necessarily, but I do think its worth a try. as far as weather goes, its 70 F spring time in april in the carolinas so I’m not sure how it wears in the heat or anything