Obscuratio 25

The word 'Obscuratio' is the Latin for 'darkening/obscuring'. This is certainly an apt name for this very dark, brooding and oddly hypnotic scent. I agree with others that it reminds me of 'Black orchid', sans truffle note, but I think this one is nicer and more sophisticated - it's much smoother (sharing the smoothness and texture I also get from Initio's 'psychedelic love', at least in the dry down phase of that one, since the opening is mot smooth!) and it's more well balanced and far less sharp. The Ylang ylang in the opening is a very dominant yellow floral, very warm, sugar sweet, almost cloying at first so I panicked I wouldn't like it. It comes on brilliant and bright, before then quickly dimming as the patchouli appears in the foreground, wherr it gradually darkens the ylang note and tones it down. This patchouli is beautiful too. It's a fantastically smooth chocolate, which doesn't go too dry or dusty (like in patchouli found in a serge Lutens, for example) and there's the most soft amber effect with it. Again, that smooth texture here is what stands out... you can almost see, feel and taste the perfectly smooth chocolate bar. This is like seeing that bar be melted down in the pan, mixed with some ambered honey, yellow ylang ylang infused butter and fresh vanilla pods ... with just a little dash of bourbon to finish. Yes, This is veering on being a gourmand fragrance for me! The more it dries down, the more it reminds me of 'Psychedelic love'. However, 'Psychedelic love' becomes a smooth, mattified, purple stone that's made from man made materials (the bottle is literally perfect!). It's more futuristic, more cold, more floral and not edible. Obviously the main player in that is focused on the heliotrope too, without the patchouli. Where 'Obscuratio' differs is that it becomes a natural, more edible, polished, shiny, chocolate coloured treat and this very classic meets modern style perfume. One that showcases patchouli; done in an interesting way. I would gladly purchase a bottle of this perfume.

What a fragrance Obscuratio is... an incredibly realistic vanilla, not overly sweet. A patchouli that’s not overpowering. Elegant, evening wear, truly dark, even with the presence of ylang-ylang, usually so "bright." A perfect balance between the notes. It’s a journey to unknown, shadowy places that slowly become comforting and familiar, until they wrap you up and soothe you with an incredible vanillic drydown. The raw materials are of the highest quality, and the almost tangible, wonderful imagery of its genius creator shines through. Thank you, Daphné.

Magnificent. I wouldn't normally call a vanilla fragrance "dramatic", but this one truly is. The king of vanillas - with Black Opium le parfum as his queen. Bold, powerful, and vibrant ylang ylang from the first spray, gradually transforming into a gourmand intoxicating chocolatey patchouli amber. But really it's all about the vanilla, the smoothest most majestic vanilla I've ever smelt. Obscuratio is a warm and inviting Chypre, I love it so much I bought the bottle.

To me this smells like clean soap bubbles, patchouli, and ylang. It's a really interesting combination, not like anything else, and I really like it. Solid projection, a few feet, and lasts 8h+. The price is a little steep though IMHO. Also - I just recently learnt that L'Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon's are the same company, so fact of the day right there for everyone :)

This is the elegant rich aunt to Kayali Vanilla 28’s spoiled baby niece. Must love patchouli though.

I think, unlike many reviewers here, that patchouli for me can be quite a difficult note. Love it in support of a good rose or next to a big Oud (think rose d’arabie Armani). But in many other instances I find it overpowering and exaggerated: - Dirty and earthy (both bad and good) in Nubica le couvent, - deliciously horny and psychedelic in Music for a while by Malle which is a super fun fragrance to wear but so whimsical I could see myself actually consistently using it only during carnival, - straight up aggressive and mean in Monsieur by Malle As I said depending on the inflection can be a bit of love or hate. Here however, in Obscuratio, I think the patchouli has been conjugated in the most soft and ambery way. I could hardly tell it was patchouli in the beginning, a note that usually really stands out to my nose. I heard once that patchouli distillation can be done in a “partioned” way. Where different parts of the plant are separately distilled into oils and then blended to the fragrance requirements. I think here either a very soft blend of the natural was used, or there is a very soft amber concoction that really rounds it up, of which a vanillic undertone is definitely part. That being said this fragrance is delicious, And I’d say that the star is a fantastically cream-infused ylang! Opens very creamy + yellow floral And dries down in quite a bombastic, rich and sweet amber with just a perfectly well encased earthiness from the patchouli that just laces up the floral core, which shines through along the whole duration. Leans feminine, but very pleasantly so. -> nicer version of psychedelic love (creamy ylang and Hedione + myrrh and sandalwood) by initio in my opinion with some darker dry-down resemblance to black orchid but more elegant, more subtle and better blended.

I’m really impressed this may be the first full blown patchouli I might like just a bit. For the record, I usually hate chypres. On first spray it reminds me of my favorite bourbon whisky, which is like licking the bottom of an aged oak barrel. I think there’s a good amount of vanilla to really round out the usual stink of patchouli and what sour may be present. It reminds me of a really sophisticated play dough, and for the first time, I don’t mean play dough in a bad way. It’s a little bit boozy, and just enough wooden sweet. I’m almost annoyed I enjoy this so much because of the price point. The ylang ylang peeks in the beginning, fades into the background when dry, then returns to dance with vanilla after sitting for 5-10 minutes. It’s quite interesting. If this pulls through a cold weather test, I might just be sold on a bottle.

This is surprisingly lovely but I’m a lover of patchouli in all its forms. Obscuratio opens with a sweet dusty spicy patchouli reminiscent of Serge Lutens Borneo but instead of going deeper into the realms of dark chocolate this does a swerve into Ylang Ylang and it’s lovely. It has nuances of Black Orchid which I wore a lot, got through many bottles until I was thoroughly sick of it but this is lighter and more wearable. Not sure about longevity as I’ve only just sampled it but I’ll edit post if it’s outstanding. Definitely a possible full bottle worthy especially with winter around the corner.

Sexy, with the caveat being that I'm a huge patchouli fan. Definitely reminds me of Black Orchid. This is a rich, chocolatey patchouli, that avoids the green-herbal type of patchouli you get in Tempo and the musky, sexy-dank-hippie patchouli in Jovoy's Psychedelique. This one is very round, bombastic and lush - and is MUCH easier for me to wear than Black Orchid as well. Scent: Strangely hypnotic and sexy - 8.5/10 Projection: Strong Longevity: Beast Polarity: Unisex

I really like this. It’s mostly patchouli, so if you don’t like patchouli then you probably won’t like this. If you do like patchouli scents like me, I find this to be one of the better ones - the vanilla makes it quite earthy and creamy and not too dusty or dirty. I don’t get much of the ylang-ylang and wouldn’t describe this as particularly floral. Sillage is moderate, longevity about 4 hours.

Very nice, boozy (like bourbon or cinnamon whiskey) vanilla. Woody and a bit(e) gourmand toward the midlife, like it could be served with a dessert tray. Seems nuanced. If the note breakdown is correct, I’m smelling patchouli and ylang-ylang. Seamless... but the scent is just good.

Strikingly similar to Black Orchid, minus the truffle note. I find Obscuratio to be a little more subdued and less cloying but also not as complex. But I’ve sold my bottle of Black Orchid as I much prefer this scent.

For patchouli lovers! Patchouli is the star. Then, I can smell Ylang Ylang and vanilla. Perfect for fall and winter. Excellent sillage and longevity. 7/10 Not to huge fan of patchouli but interesting...

Similarities abound to Black Orchid. But Obscuratio 25 is smoother and easier on the nose. I have a bottle of the older Tom Ford Black Orchid (circa 2008), and I ended up giving it to my husband because it’s too hard for me to wear. Partly because I grow tired of the scent and want to wash it off after a few hours. Obscuratio 25 is a dessert with patchouli in it. I pick up floral notes too, and I guarantee there’s more than Ylang here—and more notes than what’s listed. I also pick up some herbals, in the sage and mint area of the garden. All these synthetics smell very natural, so kudos to the perfumer. Strange that this genre already feels vintage to me, evocative of a different time in my life. Nice but also nothing unique.

I would never have thought there was such a thing as too much patchouli for me. I have to wait a few hours before I catch anything even resembling florals or vanilla. On me this pulls sharply masculine which is also unusual. Things tend to veer at least a little bit sweet and floral on me. This was a very promising pyramid and I love L'AP, I guess it's a good reminder you can't always go by that.

It feels sweet and creamy but the patchouli gives a very dry, dusty scent, which I don't like. doesn't feel very well blended and all 3 notes are noticeable but not working well together. I really wanted to like this, as I really love ylang ylang, but the patchouli ruins it for me (and I love patchouli!). Would definitely try to sample more from this range.

I like this one. A calmer version of TF's Black Orchid. On my skin, people say it leaves a small trail of scent when I walk pass. EDIT: The notes completely changed the day after on my shirt. After like 3-6 hours, I didnt like it... Nothing like Black Orchid

i dont think this is similar to Black Orchid bc the mexican chocolate & truffle makes black orchid pretty distinct + the pachouli is very chocolatey. it’s mostly just the pachouli they have in common.

A fragrance that wasn’t very inspiring to me Yes it hints to Tom Fords legendary black orchid but far from it in quality and uniqueness The patchouli is present the floral aspect is weak The whole composition was very subdued I felt it clinging desperately trying to perform A let down from the house frankly I gotta say I’m not very optimistic about this brands future for some reason almost every thing they produced since 2020 is either boring or hugely influenced by other scents

I personally find it really disappointing. Obscuratio opens with a pungent ylang-ylang combined with a very strong patchouli. The vanilla then appears, very subtle, but it can’t balance out the dated and sour scent, which I find very unpleasant. It simply doesn’t work, at least not according to my personal taste. To try before buying.