Premier Figuier

This is one of the most calming scents I've worn. It is so peaceful it affects my mood in ways that few fragrances do. This is green, very green, in the softest, most natural way you can imagine. Photorealistic fig tree, not only the smell of leaves, but also their flesh. There is a subtle milkiness that creates the image of tearing apart a green leave and seeing the milky latex drip from it. Whithout smelling dirty or soily, I can almost picture a fine layer of dirt being wipped off the leave as water trickles down during a light rain. A very visual fragrance. PF mimics so closely a natural smell that as a consequence, it is disconnected from any scent I relate to humans. It doesn't smell like a perfume. To me theres no connection to gender nor age, there is no sex appeal, no attractiveness, no seduction. This is not cute nor tough. I find this to be the strenght of this scent. It is the perfect family friendly scent, something every member of the family could wear. (I've never thought of fragrances as a product for kids, but if my kids ever wanted to wear something, this would be it, because it does not step into the "attractive person" territory, it has zero allure to it. Not that it doesn't smell good, it just isn't trying to be attractive. The same way a tree is not trying to smell attractive but still smells good.) Sometimes scents lean feminine or masculine depending on the person wearing it. Not this one, this one stays true to its natue, a tree, it smells like a tree, green goodness in the best way possible. It is not only unisex, it is sexless. And it is the fact that it is not trying to be attractive, that makes it so calming, comforting. I like to wear this on lazy weekend mornings. When I decide to take it slow, relax, I plan nothing all morning. Emotional cleanse after a tough week. This is the perfect scent to wear with sweats since it's so casual. PF helps me get in a relaxed mood to enjoy my morning, have a light breakfast, read in the couch. Some scents can feel a little abrasive first thing in the morning, specially some cirtus openings. PF is soft, so it becomes an interesting mixure of fresh but cozy, simply perfect. Projection lasts an impressive 45 min, then it becomes a skin scent for about 2, maybe 3 hrs if you're lucky. If I spray it after sleeping in, by 2pm when I have to get ready to go out to the world and pretend I'm a functional human being PF has completely worn off and I can just wear my actual SOTD. Usualy I ignore fragrances that last less than 4hrs, but this one works for me on this schedule and the joy it brings me makes it worth it IMO. Now, Philosykos. Smelling them side by side they are exactly the same exept for one thing. Philosykos has more of a woody note in the back, gives it a little edge, the greeness feels just a tiny bit screechy (at least compared to PF, by itself it doesn't feel like that.) IMO this makes it feel a tad more realistic. PF has the coconut note that rounds everything up, softens it. This slight extra creaminess fits very well what I like about the fragrance, its relaxing nature, the peacefullnes. Makes the scent friendlier. That is why I prefer PF over Philosykos.

Premier Figuier is the original fig-dominant perfume, and it is a rare L'Artisan Parfumeur scent that has been readily available for almost three decades. L'Artisan has a reputation for creating hard-to-find masterpieces - for instance, I would love a full bottle of Timbuktu and Dzing!, and after smelling this modern classic, I can add it to the list. Diptique Philosykos is the definitive fig scent as far as I'm concerned, and it is no surprise that it is quite similar to this, its predecessor, as Olivia Giacobetti is the nose behind both. PF is a realistic fig tree scent, green, jammy, lactonic and woody at various intervals. PF is softer, slightly more coconutty and less woody than Philosykos, but it is hard to choose a favourite. PF opens with green fig leaf, fresh and realistic, reminiscent of summers in the countryside in the south of France. The fig becomes jammy and fleshy as it develops, very close to the juicy flesh of a ripe fig plucked straight from the tree. The lactonic notes emerge early on, complementing the fig beautifully. Almond milk, smooth, creamy and slightly nutty - but not the gourmand marzipan note more commonly used in perfumery - gives this effect. Coconut follows, adding a tropical edge to the lactonic accord. It is more prominent than expected. As it dries down, a honeyed amber accord emerges, rich but delicate, enhancing the fig with a nectar-like quality. Soft woody notes creep in, less sharp than in Philosykos, instead soft and blurry, almost like an Impressionist rendering of the entire fig tree. It fades to a transparent coconut skin scent, with remnants of the fig remaining until final fade. Sillage and longevity are moderate. It is unisex, being more green than sweetly fruity. A restorative, deeply comforting spring/summer perfume, this is a perfectly-balanced, masterfully-composed fig scent. A true modern classic, PF pioneered the fig trend in perfumery, as well as being a beautiful, wearable and evocative scent. The original, and best. 5/5.

Premier Figuier by L'Artisan Parfumeur is a cornerstone of modern perfumery. Launched in 1994, it was the first perfume to celebrate the fig tree in its entirety, not just the fruit. Wearing Premier Figuier is like taking a walk in a Mediterranean garden at midday, when the sun warms the leaves and the scent of the sap is more intense. The onset is a blast of trampled fig leaves. It is green, almost pungent and "milky". The note of asafoetida (often called "devil's incense") adds an unusual, almost mineral and earthy touch, which prevents the fragrance from becoming too sweet or banal. Here the fragrance softens. Almond milk and fig create a velvety texture. It is not a sugary fig from a pastry shop, but the fresh, fleshy pulp of the freshly picked fruit. The sandalwood begins to make itself felt, giving a woody and reassuring structure. The finish is dominated by coconut, which never veers towards the "cheap sunscreen" effect, but maintains a natural and airy profile. Dried fruits and lime create an interesting contrast: one warms, the other refreshes, leaving a clean and sunny memory on the skin. The "nose" behind this fragrance is Olivia Giacobetti, the queen of olfactory minimalism. It is she who literally invented the "cool" genre in perfumery. If you love this style but are looking for something more intense and less sunny, Giacobetti herself subsequently created Philosykos for Diptyque, which is the more woody and dry "brother" of Premier Figuier. Premier Figuier is considered the perfume that started the trend of green and fruity fragrances of the 90s, breaking away from the opulent and heavy perfumes of the previous decade. It is an evocative and nostalgic perfume. Ideal for those who love nature and are looking for a fragrance that does not "scream", but that whispers freshness and cleanliness. It's the perfect purchase if you're looking for a summer scent that stands out from classic citrus or marine scents.

Opens with an ambiguous lactonic note with a whiff of grass and clean twigs. Nothing artificial at all, not even a hint of the alcohol scent that usually accompanies freshly sprayed perfume. The lactonic note quickly grows in strength and nuttiness, becoming more clearly coconut, bordering on desiccated coconut. Wafts of this are absolutely lovely at this stage, though it has a sour green smell close up. Already it becomes apparent that, despite having doused myself in nearly an entire sample vial, this scent won’t be sticking around for long. In fact it almost becomes pointless in continuing any evaluation after 15 minutes as even up close it’s fading away into nothing. I’m already contemplating what to put on next and there’s nothing left to wash away. Will try the remainder of the sample on clothes to see if it lasts longer but I can’t imagine I’ll purchase more. Edit: I tried this again over coconut oil hoping to make it last longer. It really enhanced the asafoetida in the opening, which I happen to like so no complaints there. That fattiness mixed with luscious lactonic fresh green stems, coconut that’s milky and nutty... Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to help much with longevity. Such a shame because I do love this. Edit again: I will layer with coconut oil and all the scent-boosting molecules; this is worth a full bottle or 3 or 5...

I always love a good fig scent, and Premier Figuier is a great one: green, light, calm, just very harmonious. It's exuberant and bright but not very sweet; natural and lifelike but not too woody; fresh and green but not at all "sporty". Kind of perfect, at least for my taste, in other words. I don't get much coconut; to my nose this is all about the milky greenness of the fig leaf and an echo of the sweet fruit itself, and the other notes just serve to enhance those aspects. The same is true for Premier Figuier Extrême, but that one's a lot woodier and a bit heavier or even stickier as well. I love both of them, but I think I prefer this greener, airier version. Like many voters have indicated, it's indeed very like Philosykos, but a little brighter and more substantial, I think. If you're a fig lover like me, I don't think it would be overkill to have both in your collection (and that's where I'll probably end up one day in the not too distant future when my decants are finished). The only downside is it's one of those scents I don't notice much during the day, except for in the opening and when I sniff my wrists.