Bergamote De G. Franco

From time to time, harvests of exceptional quality happen; I am sure we all remember that beautiful narcissus - my favourite flower - inside Fleur de Narcisse by L'Artisan Parfumeur (2006) or les Plus Belles Lavandes by Caron; I may continue with gorgeous Grasse rose of 2017 in Rose Millesime by Jovoy and other examples. It seems to me that today there is trend (micro-trend) in perfumery with a strong focus on a single ingredient distinguishable for its unusual quality. In what way do these brands differ from those of the past? In the fact that they are ensuring a certain consistency and continuity in these "special harvests": they won't be una tantum, but replicable from year to year (with some obvious variations, but that will not change the character of the perfume). This is not an easy task: it involves the identification of the right terroir with its organoleptic characteristics, working closely with the producers, the involvement of master perfumers to detect the particularity of the olfactory profile of the materials involved. The result is that the entire supply chain will be as traceable and transparent as possible. In the Anthologie de Grands Crus: Parfume Millesimes by @atelier_francais_des_matieres, a producer of raw materials is specified for each perfume; also, the crop is dated and geographically attached to the producers; this fact should connect us - as end-users of perfumes - with the crop producers via the manufacturing blend. The year of production will also be specified. As the name suggests, there is a comparison with fine quality French wines (the crus), or - to make my Italian heritage happy - with fine Italian wines (doc, i.e. controlled origin denomination). The collection consists of five perfumes made by Nathalie Feisthauer I will be reviewing them one at a time. They are all full bottle worthy: what I will buy depends on the direction in which I am expanding my collection). I would argue that instead, they are made in a way to educate people into perfumery, to help us recognize all the beautiful nuances of a particular raw material by focusing our noses (and brains) to that ingredient. The feeling is that we are wearing something new, different, and classy. Follow me on IG @alexolympia6

I promised I would have written about Les Grans Crus, one by one and I decided to start (for sentimental feeling) with the Bergamote. Composed in 2017 by Nathalie Feisthauer, it is an attempt to distance this succulent citrus fruit from the cologne genre. Consistent with their standard of transparency, the owners of the brand declare this composition: Bergamot oil grand cru, Reggio Calabria, Italy, 20% Mimosa absolute, Morocco, 1% Ostmanthus Alcholat, China 2.5% We are clearly dealing with an overdose of bergamot harvested in the county of Reggio Calabria. And it is really there that this perfume transported me. The composition exhalted the citric aspect of the bergamot, especially in the opening. But soon after, a certain creaminess emerges and I am reminded that bergamot is also used to prepare exquisite (and not overtly sweet) compote, the Italian version of the British lemon curd. The bergamot has in fact a confectionary aspect that here is exhalted. The construction is clear and alluminous, engenteled by a slightly creay mimosa with what I perceive as a touch of saffron to make all the conconction very intriguing. I would classify this stage of the perfume as citrusy, floral, slightly spicy, and transparent. But the ingenous idea here is to extend the highly volatile bergamot into a leather accord, accentuated by the ostmanthus, with some tea-note undertones, but there is also a hint of something woody that I am not able to pinpoint better. From afar, the smell is slightly different: there is a linden blossom tone that it is certainly a facet of the mimosa. Bergamote de G. Franco really impressed me. In a climate of bombastic, cahotic, and confusing fragrances, L'atelier Francais de Matieres chose to focus on one ingredient and show us all its intersting facets. They are paving the way to a new way of perfuming ourselves. The perfumes are available only at few selected boutiques.

Reveals several facets of the potential characteristics of bergamot. Gianfranco is the bergamot producer for Dior as well. However, this is a whole chord of bergamot. You do get glimpses of the best aspects of the bergamot in Dior Homme 2013, layered with more zesty and greener and also sweeter and more round aspects. This is an EDP and performs as such. Congratulations to who ever is getting 'enormous' sillage from this. Great transparent bergamot. All other notes are truly only supportive. There is a brief and noticeable apricot aspect early in the open that blends perfectly with the sunshiney bergamot.

Well... I was going to be really harsh about this perfume but I’ve tried it a few times now and decided to play nice. However, it smells BAD on my skin, not dull, or ‘just’ bergamot, or doesn’t last (possibly is ALL those things too) but on a strip/card/blotter the bergamot material smells really nice, and what I would expect from some named and I’m assuming very special bergamot producer I’ve pictured being amalfi coast or southern Italy or whatever? My experience of using bergamot in perfumery is that the relatively affordable bergamot oils not only smell fantastic but blend so well into compositions, retaining their edge and giving top note sparkle to many the composition, happy days. So some grand Cru shit should be mind blowing right?!?! Well as I mentioned above on my skin the bergamot is blunted, and dull as dishwater, recognisably bergamot but fuzzy and lacking definition, or freshness, isnt that what bergamot is prized for??? I don’t blame the support either because there’s not a great deal else there! Perhaps a woody scaffold but nothing more. I’m not a person to buy too heavily into skin chemistry it's much more likely your nose/perception at a point in time than it is your skin, but that could be a factor I guess. So if a perfume is not viable on my skin, then why am I giving it a chance? Well... again... like mentioned I tried on card and the bergamot was much less flat and more what I would expect, a pleasant, bright aroma of bergamot. So without being rude to G.Franco or the crew behind these perfumes this one is not for me, and just not very good, sorry.

I don’t know, I just found this composition so lackluster and ... boring. Bergamote De G. Franco opens is a bergamot centric scent, then dries down to a saffron skin scent in less than 90 minutes. I had to check and make sure this wasn’t cologne strength. Usually I don’t care about performance that much—if I love the opening sometimes that’s all I need—but this was a dull ride from start to its quick finish. L'Atelier Francais Des Matieres needs to up their game if they want to charge $195 for 30 ml. I’m more than half way through my discovery set from Luckyscent, and I’m hoping the next one is not a dud.