Vanille d'Amine

I have already talked quite extensively about Anthologies des Grans Crus reviewing their vetiver and their bergamot. Now, it strikes me that in the Italian page of fragrantica there is not one single review of this house, and on the English page people complaint about the price per ml that would be too high. Let me tell you, this product are not intended for user that calculate the cost per ml; rather, they are intended for perfume lovers with a certain degree of literacy, a level that you reach with time, studying, reading, exploring different scent profile, exchanging opinions with others, and, above all, talking and trusting people that devote their time to educate people on perfumery. Vanille d'Amine is an ode to a green Madagascar vanilla of the planifolia variety that differs from the most common Malagasi one (Vanilla bourbon). The former consists of raw pods that are almost odorless; they acquire their scents after the curing process. It is creamy, sweet, and warm notes with subtle hints of spice and tobacco. Nathalie Feisthauer, in my opinion, was not a random choice to create all this scents. Her minimalist approach (in the vein of Ellena, if you will) is the most suited to exhalt and magnified this compelling raw material. Undertones of chocolates, of maltolated biscuits, of spice, and deeply aromatic notes are all present in the scent. Feisthauer chose to subvert our conception of confectionary vanilla opening Vanille d'Amine with spicy cloves (cloves oil bud also from Madagascar); it is a very sharp and "masculine" opening almost piercing, where some eugenil may be present, along with some bergamot of which the sweet confectionary aspect is fron t and center while the leatherness is tamed. This edginess works in duet with the pacifying balmness of the vanilla itself: not sugary, not sweet, but woody, leathery and with cocoa tones. All rests on a sof cloud of incense. Follow me on IG @alexolympia6

Vanille d’Amine is my first L'Atelier Francais Des Matieres fragrance, and it’s apparent that quality ingredients were used but I’m a bit underwhelmed. I wore Vanille d’Amine twice, and both times the clove dominant opening promised more than this scent could deliver. The opening was lovely, but within an hour faded to a skin scent. For that hour or so I did love it— I picked up a beautiful vanilla layered with wood notes but it wasn’t enough to justify a purchase, a pass at this price point. One thing to note, I love the discovery kit size of 3 ml.— a size you are able to spray liberally, and I really appreciate it. Looking forward to testing the other fragrances from this house. EDIT second wearing in cooler weather (60-68* F): much better performance! I was lukewarm in my initial review but this is not a warm weather scent. I believe this to be an in between Season scent, and I’m digging it. Warm boozy vanilla, super smooth. Lesson learned, wear at least a few times before forming an opinion.

This was the most interesting one of the line—rich & natural, not as unifocal as others. People who are into vanillin-overdose type fragrances might find this unorthodox, but it's actually not that bitter, acidic, or sharp & pungent to those looking for more 🙂 Clove stands out in the beginning, making it medicinal, then merges with a some smoke carried by frankincense creating a slightly Gothic hue over the vanilla that persists through drydown.

First Impression wearing, begining is cloves and frankincense. I'm not a huge clove fan but it's not brutally strong here and the incense rescues it to an large extent, balancing it out. Gets slightly smokey but not much. After a while the second act of vanilla kicks in and it's not bad, but not mind blowing either.Overall a very simple scent, what you see is what you get. Not very interesting and frankly pretty boring imo. Scent 5/10 Performance 6/10

It smells like some medicated oils, which you can get for 1/10 of the price.

Very bitter dark spicy piquant balsamic clove with a syrupy tail end sweet vanilla (just a touch). Quite acidic at first - even vinegary for a fair bit though it softens after 15 minutes. Not at all what I was expecting - glad I purchased a discovery pack and not a FB. Rare occasion where a perfume has me quite nonplussed. It’s not horrible per se but I can’t quite see whom would wear it and for what occasion. It’s unsettling without being offensive. It seems to float in the dare to be different/I’ve run out of ideas category. After 30 minutes the strong brashness softens making it much more palatable where I would call it a gourmand/spice scent but it also looses performance considerably. I will have to brave a decent application and try it one day when I’m alone and not conducting business and see how it goes rather than I a couple of squirts on my wrist. I’ll come back to you...

Cloves and black molasses explosion, followed by a raw, kind of shy vanilla scent. I have difficulty with this scent, since there is a dirty note in the background making noise. How dirty? well almost like dirty socks. That note goes away in the drydown. Then you just get some sort of mentholated/clove oil smell. I am not going to even think of spending >$200 in something like this.

1st hour: cloves. More cloves. Maybe some of that nargamotha (mothball) type wood. Sharp, pungent, challenging. Drydown: wonderful sugary, dreamy vanilla with hints of liquorice and amber Yep, knew it. I am not amused, Mr Niche My rating: 3/10