Violette Kew

Mmmmmmmviolet! (This is totally unisex for those who worry about such things, it even leans slightly more to the "masc" side) Opens with brief lemon and slightly spiced woody notes, including a violet that feels deep blue and full bodied rather than pale purple, ephemeral, dainty and powdery. It's not lipstick like, or berry like. Nor is it soapy or old fashioned. The violet grows stronger. Woody, deep indigo and at the same time fresh. Soon the twisted contrasting note of this perfume's concept appears, a warm cumin that sizzles on my skin as if my body was a hot iron skillet. It's addictive and honestly quite sexy (a word i don't like to throw around a lot...) The violet stays linear underneath the smoking hot cumin bomb, coming back to the fore as the cumin eventually fades out. Meanwhile, a gentle sweetness developes, never cloying or bothersome. It reminds me a bit of the cute old fashioned pastilles Anis de Flavigný, where a green aniseseed is tumbled in a sugar solution flavoured with, for instance, violets, to produce a hard drageé old fashioned candy. Now I crave a limited edition where the anis is swapped for a cumin seed! Mmm Not even the sweetness makes this violet powdery. It feels as the drydown goes into a simple syrup flavoured with sandalwood and violet impression. No vanillin destroying the scent here. This perfume is honestly amazing. A unique and interesting take on violet! Also, skillfully measured and balanced, scoring a perfect medium within strength, projection and longevity, never too much of anything. The house of Le Jardin Retrouvé is so worth checking out. All their scents are of top quality. They have a common airy but substantial feel which is rare to smell today. They are not pushing trends and rushed unfinished projects. And, big bonus, the owners are the friendliest people ever. Can't wait for their Immortelle that is coming later this year, which I actually got to smell as I bought Violette Kew.

There is so much doubt when it comes to modern fragrance, and I am the first to admit that I can often add to it, when there is just so much released today that fails to inspire. The cynicism cuts through the spirit like a dull knife. A lot of niche has caved in to the norm, with trite concepts led by a flattened culture dictated by algorithms and research methods. Others often flail for relevance, with inflated narratives that simply embellish indistinct smoky ennui and poorly applied accords. There are perfumers and houses that still do surprise me, though, Maxence Moutte and his contributions for Le Jardin Retrouve have struck a chord with me. Violette Kew in particular is a daring ode to the humble violet, not exactly the most fashionable modern perfume accord but one I hold dear to my heart. Here, it feels so wide-eyed and full of hope, even as it is shaded in with cumin and cardamom, giving it some grizzled wisdom. This violet is somewhere between the watery-green and powdery parma, as stimulating to my nose as a sun shower is to my soul. The foundation is that of a modern, yet tempered sandalwood and some cedar that recalls that of SL Bois de Violette, and while beautiful and painterly as that creation is, Violette Kew surpasses it in its intelligibility. It has clean lines and pure contour, kissed with a peachy facet, and cool in temperature. It certainly enough to wash away the cynicism and assure that there are modern noses that can arouse with their craft.

The first time I smelled this, I was was VERY taken aback -- and not in a good way! As someone new to the Violet game, my nose just was not really prepared for this very eccentric, vintage-leaning, powdery ride! So honestly, first wearing? I hated it; couldn't wait to wash it off. Surprise twist??? I could't stop thinking about this peculiar, powdery, purply, slightly candied yet dirty scent. It was SO unlike any perfume I'd ever tried, I knew I had to try it again (it had also received SO many accolades, so I knew this deserved more consideration!). Second wearing - still strange, but now that my nose was better prepared for what was coming, I began enjoying this weird and quirky treasure. The cumin is a genius addition to the violet (and likely what originally threw me off) as it gives Violette Kew a slightly dirty, pungent edge which makes this super compelling and fascinating to sniff!! This scent has become truly addictive to me! It has not only gone from a dislike to a like to a LOVE but has joined my must buy list --- I need this!! This house has gorgeous bottles as well. I think Maxence Moutte is definitely a perfumer to watch!

Another treasure from this house. My new favorite perfume. Something a fairy would wear. enchanted and magical. Don’t let the cumin and cardamom scare you. They give a little spice at the opening but it’s not overpowering and it dissipates into the background quickly, playing only a supportive (but still very interesting) role. The violet is the star and shines all the way through. YAY! a beautiful and sweet candied violet. Very fluffy and playful. To my nose there are notes not listed here. Definitely vanilla. Something that adds a soothing, sweet and fluffy quality. This perfume is so unique. It does remind me of lush V although they are not identical. I also am reminded of Lolita lempicka although they also are definitely not the same. I feel like they are the same family, and rightfully so with the violet in all three. I am delighted by this fragrance. I almost want to give it a bad review to greedily gatekeep it. I feel like this could be worn in any season, day or night. The different temperatures will bring out different qualities, but I think it would be lovely on a hot or cold day.

I adore this. Well worth the wait. Essentially this is a beautiful slightly powdery violet, quite airy but it has some staying power. More nuanced facets may emerge in time but on first wear this settles into a lovely floral with quite a surprising but subtley fitting cumin there in the base. It’s Violette Cu (min) 😄 I checked the notes as it seems unexpected as a destination but it works oh so well. This is going to be treasured for sunny days or super rainy days. It’s a tiny bit green, mainly floral, powdery and a tiny bit earthy. It’s the violet I’ve been searching for.