Iris 39

This is a sensational iris and violet fragrance, and an unexpected offering from Le Labo. I don't understand the comments about it not being complex - it has a rich, buttery booziness amid the chypre-style base whilst also managing to be slightly green and translucent. I do see that there are hints of the retro in Iris 39, but you can also see that this was made by the same parfumer as Glossier You and Santal 33: there is a warm, musky modernism about Iris 39, especially in the dry-down. Regarding the notes you need to enjoy to appreciate this, it certainly leads with violet, which makes it unusual. To me, the fragrance it brings to mind most is Balenciaga Paris at this stage - another modern violet chypre. However, Iris 39 has a warm fruitiness that Paris doesn't have. Though it's been a while since I've smelled them, I'm also reminded of violet fragrances like Chanel's Misia and Creed's Love in Black, purely because they're violet-forward fragrances that have a rounded warmth to them: not that they smell similar, but just for the way the notes blend to be rich. And then we get the radiant ylang ylang, ginger and cardamom middle, all perfectly melded so no one note stands out, as well as the iris/orris centre. What is interesting is that both violet and iris can be made cold-shouldered, that isn't the case here at all. The heavy dose of patchouli gives it a slightly arty, hippy vibe, but in a great way. And then you get the modern musk dry-down, reminding you this is after all a Le Labo scent. In short, this is a beautifully made modern violet/iris chypre, perfect for all seasons and gender-wise not leaning one way or another particularly - - maybe slightly more feminine, but it would smell fantastic on everyone. Not a safe blind-buy, since one needs to enjoy violet, but if you do, there is lots to enjoy here, with its complexity and radiance. A really fabulous offering that doesn't shout from the Le Labo stable, but which is a quiet masterpiece.

Le Labo IRIS 39 is one of the most iris-rich iris perfumes I've smelled, rivalling even APRES L'ONDEE in the density of this beautiful floral note. However, IRIS 39 also has a greenish carrot-top edge. I'm thinking that IRIS 39 may actually be the strict inverse of HIRIS, with the proportions of carrot tops and iris switched, making iris much more dominant in this composition than the carrot. Another notable distinction between these two greenish iris perfumes is that the carrots in Le Labo 39 appear to have been triple washed. I'm not one to get all bent out of shape by iris perfumes with only low levels of iris present, since I think that it is perfectly valid to produce metaphorical perfumes and also to use iris as a complement or as one among a number of other equally important notes. I really don't think that any perfumer is under some sort of obligation to use hefty dosages of any note included in the perfume's name, including iris, just because it is so precious. That said, it seems to me that, with regard to this Le Labo composition, no such complaint can in any case be made. I am quite fascinated by the fact that some noses find this creation to be richer in violets than in iris, which perhaps corroborates my inchoate theory about variable note salience from sniffer to sniffer. Well, that's another story. Suffice it here to say that I've been wearing a lot of violet quasi-soliflores of late (some quite green...), and this smells nothing like any of those to me! This creation is beautiful, bountiful in iris with a touch of greenishness, and smells less earthy and carroty and more clean than HIRIS. Less powdery than APRES L'ONDEE, and more light and airy than IRIS NOBILE or BOIS D'IRIS. Yes, Le Labo IRIS 39 has managed to carve out its own little corner in the congested category of haute iris perfumes!

If a dry iris is what you seek, look no further! It might be the first time I've smelled an iris perfume where iris was truly the star. This fragrance contains loads of iris, the whole bulb, said the saleswoman in the Le Labo boutique. The perfume starts out very earthy, with woods and patchouli, which eventually become soft and clean, like an organic cotton undershirt fresh out of the dryer. I was impressed with how unisex it is and how dry, almost bitter, it remained. Only in the drydown did I detect something slightly sweet, maybe the cardamom. I would highly recommend Iris 39 to anyone who wants a true iris perfume and who is looking for something understated rather than blatantly perfume-y. It is down-to-earth and totally unpretentious. It's no Chanel No.5, nor is it an Apres l'Ondee. ----------------------- Update 5 years later: In five years, I have smelled A LOT of perfume, and I have come full circle, back to Iris 39, still, quite frankly, the absolute best iris fragrance that exists. That is--if you are looking for intense, starchy, waxy makeup from a compact to an extreme. I feel like I've tried all of those makeup conpact types of perfumes, and the waxy iris part is always fleeting. Not with Iris 39! All along I already had the best one sitting quietly in a box, having been untouched for some 4 years because I sprayed so much that I made myself ill. After reaquainting myself with this mega-beauty, I can safely say that that I will need a backup bottle, pronto! My developed nose now picks up some notes I could not detect before--soft florals and a little bit of naughty civet in the base (Le Labo is cruelty-free, despite the fact that they are now owned by Estee Lauder, which is not a cruelty-free company). It's iris perfection. It will always be my #1 Iris.

Le Labo recently discontinued this scent. This is with deep regret, as it was one of their best, alongside Santal 33 and Vanille 44. They buried Iris 39 but months prior released the hideously bland and uninspired Lavande 31: shame on y’all, Le Labo. Iris 39 is wildly complex. It smells purple, indeed, but not a rich and royal purple; more like a subdued lilac. It is striking, nonetheless. The scent is predominantly iris, but there’s some petrichor, wet soil and earth, and the slightest hint of animalic stank. It's refined but a little dirty, like an expensive purple gown that’s been sullied with dirt and grass stains. Powdery florals that are ever so slightly aquatic and yes, even a little gothic – it conjures images of Lucy swanning about the hedge maze during a storm in Bram Stoker’s Dracula, as her gown blows behind her and wraps itself against Greek statues. Iris 39 smells like strolling through a moody garden in the English countryside. However, this fragrance isn’t delicate, but rather quite powerful, so perhaps it’s more like being dragged through that wet garden. Beyond the garden, a gothic mansion looms in the horizon under grey skies with a light, hazy rain, and a bouquet of irises have been discarded into a nearby fountain and are gracefully drowning in the pool of water. Iris 39 is ideal for spring or rainy summer days. It’s unisex, although it leans feminine, but it’s bold enough that it would be a great choice for a man who wants a more masculine floral. If you can still get your hands on it, do it. In five words or less: Gorgeous flowers in purple rain.

Iris 39 is among my very favorite having a favorite spot in my fragrance wardrobe especially now in spring. I am not a person into diluted, nondescript fumes and definitely detest the popular summer fruitchoulis and while I like some skin scents (take Cartier Baiser Vole) I will never have a love affair with them. Being a greener floral chypre but wearable in hot weather too and having the much loved animalic notes, I have always had a serious crush on Iris 39 ever since I first smelled it. Though in the winter I would go for something even deeper and more animalic, Iris 39 is not your light and airy little floral but rather a pretty heavy hitter and very sensual in nature; being secretly dirty while gorgeously beautiful and very elegant as well. The moment you smell Iris 39 you will always remember it, it is very intriguing and beautiful as it is it has a character that reminds me of an entire iris plant dug out from earthy, slightly animalic dirt with traces of it left on.This is how I want my Iris, not entirely innocent but somewhat mysterious, naturally gorgeous and whispering dirty secrets in your ears. I could not stop thinking of this sophisticated and slightly complicated painting of a beautiful lady, I just had to have her to enjoy her grand breath of real nature, real spring, unparalleled sex appeal, never tacky or sweet. It is also not a light, powdery iris but IMHO has grand sillage, leaves a presence which stays for quite a long time. As typical of Le Labo you can just smell the quality of the ingredients, though pricey, it is well worth the price.