Mousse de Chene 30 Amsterdam

I tested it on paper and on skin yesterday and found Mousse de Chene having the same vibe and some similarities with two other fragrances by Le Labo, namely Baie Rose 26 and Ylang 49. Mousse de Chene opened with aromatic, spicy and light greenish floral notes. As the fragrance starting to settle, the Patchouli like Clearwood note dominated giving the fragrance a soft, clean and airy Patchouli nuance. Very quickly the rosy sparkly Baie Rose (pink pepper) joined in and stayed as an airy Rose/Patchouli for a little while until some warmer light spicy notes appeared. The synthetic Evernyl, crystal moss, note was there but IMHO not strong enough to make this fragrance merit the name Mousse de Chene (Oakmoss). The dry down was warm, somewhat earthy and spicy with a lingering sheer woody character. Although the scent seemed to be sort of soft and transparent, it did travel quite far and one spray on the back of my hand allowed me to smell it for a few hours while walking around on the street and having dinner in a very spacious restaurant. The price for this fragrance, as a matter of fact all the city exclusive fragrances, is crazily expensive. Although I really like it, how could I not like a fragrance that reminded me of my most favourite Baie Rose 26, I really need to calm down and think about it. Luckily it would not be available for sale in Hong Kong until September. I still have over a month to make my decision to see whether it should be part of my fragrance wardrobe.

August 16, 2023. It's funny. Certain things don't matter anymore. I thought this was important. But now my dog is dead and suddenly I don't care about whether or not the Amsterdam city exclusive is worth the money. Because it's not. And we all know that. I guess we like to come here and pretend we are all experts. And our opinion actually means something. But, opinion only matters when you have the fundamentals in your life. For me, one of those fundamentals was the companionship of my dog Bubba. No it is not fun anymore. If given a choice, 100 out of 100 times, all of us would choose our beloved animals over anything purchasable on this entire website. So why am I here? I suppose writing this review is a kind of cathartic experience. Mousse de Chene 30 is providing a therapeutic environment for me to relax and calm myself and for that I am grateful. The fragrance itself is very herbaceous and brings you closer to the earth. I am also grateful to be wearing it tonight during this process. Perhaps it has just shown me it's value as I write down these words.

I have an older bottle, I don't know if the formula has changed. I don't get the Amsterdam connection but this is a modern oakmoss perfume and doesn't smell old school. It's got 4 different types of oakmoss, 2 natural and 2 synthetic. Finally a scent where oakmoss is at the center stage and not just a background player. I remember vintage frags (pre IFRA) and although this doesn't scratch that itch, it does satisfy in general. This opens sharp and almost jarring. Oakmoss is the main player with patchouli,bay leaves and woods. It's not harsh like oakmoss can be sometimes. It's very smooth after the initial jolt winds down. I'm wearing it right now and loving it. It's also strong and I feel like if I was to go too heavy on the sprays it I might smell like Ajax. Not for people that don't like Longevity is around 8+ hrs. Scent 10/10 Performance 7.5/10 Update: Le Labo SA told me it reflects Amsterdam as being old and traditional (oakmoss), while also being progressive (formula is a more modern interpretation of classics) which I guess makes sense.

I like this fragrance a lot. A very fresh, wet green opening, which settles to provide a nice warm comforting blanket of a perfume. I get the moss, patchouli and a faint whiff of pepper. I got good projection on my windy walk to work and, after four hours at my desk, I still get pleasant occasional whiffs. This seems very versatile. I'm wearing it on a very hot day and could imagine wearing it any time of year. My absolute favourite fragrance is Patchouli 24 and I am desperate to find a hot day equivalent, this really might be it, despite the price ... I do confess I'm not wholly convinced by the sillage or longevity, if I can get another three hours, I'll be satisfied, but I am half inclined to put it down to a poor spray on the test vial. Update: A full eight hours and I still get the occasional reminder as to what I'm wearing. The patchouli is definitely still there, the pepper and moss have gone, but there is something slightly sweet that remains. Similar longevity to Musc 25 and Vanille 44, but probably slightly better projection.

Mousse de Chêne translated to english is oak moss. So, you'd expect oak moss to be the primary note... seems logical. No, this is Le Labo, and if you're at all familiar with this brand each perfume is centered around a note as 'inspiration' not always the main note of the composition. The heart note of this composition is patchouli. Oak moss is there but the first and most lingering note is a soft, slightly sweet patchouli floating in a cloud of soft, slightly sweet oak moss with a hint of soapy (maybe aldehydes?), musky woodsy note that is a bit powdery in effect. This is a light fluffy fragrance, and not at all the spicy, dark, chocolate patchouli, and heavy woods you might expect reading the notes here. Sillage and longevity is medium to strong. I really like this one a lot, and it's a high quality scent. I don't get any sharp edges, or chemical mess - it's very smooth, and dry down is gorgeous. Highly recommend getting a sample during Le Labo's once a year release of their city exclusives online.

This is a metallic and sharp opener. It smells like American money at first, or like the tinge in the air during a lightning storm—something many people don’t notice. It reminds me of cold stainless steel railing. When I first tried it, I hated the opening. But after a while, it dried down to the scent of heaven’s forest floor. It feels like something I would wear on the set of a Gaspar Noé movie, as it’s both palatably freakish and beautiful all at once. I think it would be stunning on a psychotic ballerina or a beautiful cave creature. If you don’t like powder but want something mystical and gorgeous, this is for you. I want to be synonymous with this scent. I’ve washed clothes that have been sprayed with this scent, and it lingers still. The sillage is incredible; I’ve had people yell “You smell so good!” as they walk by. The only time I don’t like to wear it is when I feel antisocial, for that very reason.

I've always loved oakmoss and this is a distinct take on it. The opening is clear, piercing and extremely aromatic. I find it sharp and somewhat jarring, but in a way I enjoy. I like to wear it on the coldest of winter days because it seems to echo the sensation of piercing cold air. The dry down is much more subtle -- the piercing qualities mostly (bot not completely) go away -- and you are left with a pleasant, woody-aromatic scent. But I agree that this is now extremely overpriced. Not sure what Le Labo is thinking. Of course there are people out there who can mindlessly shell out over $500 for a 100ml bottle, but this has got to be limiting their market. I actually find it offensive. Running low on my 15ml from last year and decided not to replace it on principle. But still enjoying what I have left!

This fragrance is a definite winner for me! I really enjoy the warm red pepper with a hint of floral scent bringing it together beautifully. Both patchouli and oakmoss give it that green/herbal base to help balance and harmonize the aroma altogether. Sometimes patchouli comes off stronger with a medicine/clinical vib...not this juice. Longevity and Silage is very good lasting between 6-8hrs. You can smell the fragrance at arms length. It usually takes several times trying the fragrance before making any decision. I finally acquired Tokyo and sampled this baby...yup I'm going for it! I really enjoy the warm spicy notes with a floral blend thou there's no mention of it. Very fresh, clean and spicy giving it an appealing uplifting vib. Kudos to Le Labo...9/10

This is a fragrance to go to similar to maybe what drug addicts go through with a split effect of hate and love as the hit goes through the senses. The apparent dislike comes from as a sense of perceived control , the idea one can leave it forever and not even notice the loss. Then, just on the off chance, give it another try this strange little perfume. So it goes on and on. This scent is akin to an urbane handsome denizen of the Benelux with a natural aura of reserved charisma. So impossible to not want to know more and more about this neat little fragrance. 8.5/10.... A grade

So absolutely beautiful patchouli fragrance 🥺. I feel this is what Patchouli 24 could've been; as the smoke at the intro of Patchouli 24 can read as fired wood or smoked meat. While personally I love the smell of 24, it's obscure and isn't well tolerated by the masses (an apex niche fra 🖤). Mousse de Chene 30 is masterfully executed in its woody and aromatic simplicity. The spices are like an artists flair. Anyone who loves a patchouli focused fragrance must try this at least once.

One of my friends works at Le Labo, so sometimes I like to go and visit her. She said she bought Mousse De Chene for her sister, so I thought I'd try it again after smelling the city exclusives back in August..... I don't know why I overlooked this the first time around - because this is unreal. One of the most perfectly unisex fragrances I have ever smelled. Rarely ever do I buy a bottle immediately, but I did here. I will be wearing that bottle to the ground.

It's incredibly peppery. Strong patchouli. If I had to choose, I'd purchase Dior's Patchouli Impérial over Le Labo's Chene 30. Just my personal preference. I like the coriander, cinnamon, tonka bean and vanilla blended in because it adds a touch of sweetness. Nevertheless, this is a clean spicy. If this was given to me as a gift, I'd be thrilled! Don't hesitate to buy if this blend speaks to you. You cannot... can-not, go wrong with Le Labo.

A very very good moss-chouli. Opens sharp, masc-leaning, it could be a banger (at least for the faint hearted). Tbo I was sceptical if I will get along with my fb or not - in a way that I’d like my man to smell like MdC, but could I, a sucker for musky muscs measure up to this, or it would eventually be like bathing in a C-level executive’s body odor. The answear is yes I can, and feel badass, boosted, all good stuff.

Not something that I would have bought for myself, but it was the first scent my boyfriend got me (together with Penhaligon's The Favourite and Matiere Premiere's Parisian Musc) so I means a lot to me. In time, it grew on me and now I really like it a lot. It's my city special, so that makes it even more dear to me and I also like how the notes refer to Amsterdam in it's glory days and the spice trades.

What a wonderful modern style Chypre. I love oakmoss and this is a great mossy woody composition. I get the slight spice and a fruity nuance from the pink pepper I believe. This is definitely for the oakmoss+patch lover. It wore beautifully in the heat and throughout the day. I’m happy this is my first Le Labo.

Beautiful. A hidden gem. Oakmoss, patchouli - but I don't want to make this sound too earthy. There is something slightly sweet in here. The pink pepper, bay leaf, and cinnamon make this unique and wonderful. Truly unisex.

To be honest, I think this perfume is the most unique among the city exclusive of Le Labo. I couldn't find a perfume similar to this scent anywhere. It's a lot more expensive, but it's worth it.

Anyone knows a really good dupe for this fragrance? I really don’t want to spend $400 on it.

Love love love! My life’ll never be the same! Thank you Le Labo!

Mousse de Chêne is the French translation of oakmoss, and I was interested in trying this scent, as I adore oakmoss in vintage perfumes. As it is now a prohibited ingredient, perfumers have to be creative about rendering an oakmoss effect in modern chypres. Patchouli is the most common approach - almost an essential note in modern chypres - and its earthiness in combination with other, well-chosen ingredients can be extremely effective. Here, it is put to good use and features prominently. Mousse de Chêne 30 is a light, dewy take on a chypre. It starts off well, but fades to a synthetic ambroxan-esque scent for its second act. MdC30 has a pleasant, earthy opening, chypre-like from initial spray. There is a soft mossiness initially thanks to the patchouli, and pink pepper adds a hint of rosy spice. There can't be any real oakmoss here, but there is a soft woody mossiness that simulates it - initially fairly realistic-smelling, if faint. A dewy, transparent green undertone complements the chypre accord, adding freshness. Earthy, woody and herbal initially, it becomes increasingly musky as it progresses. After a while, a synthetic ambroxan-like base note becomes evident, perhaps due to the crystal moss or clearwood (lab-created ingredients that I am wholly unfamiliar with). I am not a fan of the liberal use of synthetic amber-esque molecules in the base of many modern perfumes, so I am not enamoured with this phase. However, it is fairly light and some earthiness remains, so it is not too bad (and won't bother some people at all). It eventually becomes an ambroxan skin scent, outlasting the other notes and lingering for a long time. Sillage is moderate and longevity is long-lasting (mostly thanks to the ambroxan phase). A transeasonal unisex day scent, MdC30 is intriguing and ambitious on paper, but ultimately is just an OK light take on a modern chypre. While it is certainly overpriced for what it is, it will still appeal to many. 3/5.