Iris Gris X.O.

My review is based on the XO version released in autumn 2017. From my understanding, this XO version is an aged one of the extrait achieved by a special process (described as patented but still pending at the time of writing on Legendary Fragrances website). The opening indeed recalls the vinegar-like note stemming from the damaged top notes of vintage perfumes, and it eventually fades away to reveal the expected peach-orris accord, smooth and softly musky like peach skin, sitting comfortably on the skin without significant changes until it completely disappears after about 10 hours. Compared to the extrait version which aims at recreating the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris freshly prepared, the different notes in this XO version are much less distinct and feel almost like having melted within the soft peach-orris accord. The nutty and slightly powdery woody aspect is mostly absent, while the spicy carnation is only a distant whisper. In contrast, the violet is more noticeable in the XO version, although not as vivid as in DSH Scent of Hope for example. The sillage is also softer than the extrait version. Between the two versions from Legendary Fragrances, both have their own top notes that are unfortunately not appealing to my taste. Although the dry down of XO version is smoother, thanks to its lack of the almost flour-like powdery woody base, I personally find the extrait version more interesting with its spicy carnation twist.