Semence Douce

I imagine that if one encounters a fragrance with a dull imagination they may only take away an impression that their mind is capable of materializing. I have often thought about how many humans smell with few reference markers. If we aren't examining our environment, either the natural or the man-made, voraciously with our noses, then our palate may very well be limited. How do we otherwise fill in the gaps with a limited imagination? Take tulips, for example: visually striking, come in a rainbow of colors and even patterns, yet few seem to realize that there are actually a few tulip varieties that do have a discernible—and remarkable scent. Tulips in perfume are therefore mistakenly regarded as purely a fantasy accord. Semence Douce ("sweet seed," interpret that as you will as semence also means semen), may not smell like tulips to one who hasn't gone around smelling all sorts of tulips, but I've smelled a few fragrant ones. Tulip turkestanica smells spicy and saffron-like; the vibrant orange tulip 'Orca' has an incredible waxy, citrus and cyclamen-like scent; 'Shirley Double' are sweetly-green, sappy, with honey undertones; 'Apricot Beauty' has, you guessed it, a sweet, apricot like aroma. In Semence Douce, I am reminded of these, but I am also struck by this milky plant sappiness that encircles the tulips, like the latex of milkweeds and spurges. While there is listed an almond milk accord, it seems to only add to this sensation, and for those who aren't well-acquainted with the smell of plant exudates, I can see where there would be a flummoxed reaction and subsequent dismissal. What a pity! This is an example where something blurs the lines between what is perceived as organic and what is perceived as synthetic. When we smell latex or rubber, does the mind think of one or the other? If one were to be blindfolded and handed the phloem of certain plants, might they mistake it for something made in a lab? Are we reminded of condoms, of balloons, of gloves? I find this one so fascinating in that I not only enjoy wearing it (I truly do!), but it also challenges perceptions. It's a futuristic floral that elicits reactions and asks questions, while also insinuating certain life-giving emissions—not so blatant or unnerving as Secretions Magnifiques. This is tulips and plant sex as a metaphor as two lips and human sex, and perfumer Bernard Duchaufour doesn't even rely on an animalic accord to transmit its message. I think it's absolutely brilliant.

So, I bought the (really expensive) discovery set from l'entropiste a while ago, and I reallly loved Blanc Sada and Semence douce. The other day, I was listening to a podcast where Bertrand Duchaufour talked about his work and Semence douce... I'm gonna say first, that on skin, it's my favorite from the brand, is both green, dewy and a bit lactonic from the almond, it evokes tulips really well, and it's divine. I wore it to bed and it was fresh and really conforting while being complex. One of those perfume that smells like spring in the best way. I have to say that my main issue with this fragrance is that I won't buy a 300€ perfume with semence in the name. I gess I'm not rich enough for that kind of clowning. But I really liked it and I was considering turning a blind eye and buying it anyway So we are back to Bertrand Duchaufour talking about Semence douce, the guy says the worl "sperm" like 10 times in two minutes, explained why tulips look like p*nis and naked women (?), almond milk looks like sperm (no, it's just not true), rice is a seed so a semence (no one ever used that world in that context in french but okay). I felt like those people who just wanted to see a nice painting, go to a museum to end up with a guide that sees sex everywhere and a weird half-naked-lady doing an artistic performance in a corner of a room.

By far my favorite of the 6 new perfumes from Bertrand Duchaufour. This is milky, almondy, subtle, floral... fantasy tulip accord evokes a dewy hopeful thing with shades of carnal flower style tuberose under a watery Giacobetti type haze. I think this shares ground with other perfumes but is quite different when viewed as a whole. This is the outlier in the set and an immediate love. Nothing obviously synthetic but also doesn’t feel organic. If the master ever created something for Frederic Malle, this would be it. Classy.

This is such an unexpected scent! I got it by buying the discovery set. I gotta say, L'Entropiste do not miss! This is one of the VERY few green fragrances I love. I struggle to even describe it, the sap is wet, the tulip is actually photorealistic, as tulips smell very differently depending on the variety, and this one smells like the kind my grandmother grew. Such a comforting scent for me.

lactonic, green, airy, honeyed. smells like spring and innocence. something about it makes me think of dandelion stem sap and also of a honeysuckle bush... perfect nervous system reset for me.