Des Cendres

{Full disclosure: Eugen is someone I consider a friend (not a 'brand' or 'collaborator' I'm certainly not being paid for this review) and very kindly sent me a bottle of this as he sites me as being instrumental in the initial phase of development of his brand and ideas about which direction to go in. (not that I was aware that's what was happening like) I'm extremely humbled that he gives me that credit, and I'm so glad things worked out so well ,and he got the quality and artistic integrity he was looking for, which is all down to Eugen's vision and I never doubted him for a minute!} Oh well.... Eugen's olfactory triptych is complete and what a way to finish in style. As much as I love Belle Ame with it's gorgeously opulent yet understated orris and tonka themes, and La douleur exquise exploded onto the scene with it's tearjerking emotional inspiration was a seemingly quite a mellow, rose/patchouli affair but actually is far more mysterious and spicy on skin & requires much more wear and thought than you initially think. However Des Cendres has to be my favourite of the lot, but what a bunch and what a set of bases to cover with such aplomb. Then we come to Des Cendres (ashes) and it's a really interesting contrast of the green and vibrant, the trad-masculine and the ashen, dry, leathered or smoky. I think to say this is a 'smoky' fragrance is overstating the smoke, and perhaps misleading, really doing something of a disservice to the cleverness with which the 'ashes' are deployed in this composition. The leathery accord is spiced slightly (to me it felt like coriander or celery seed even beloved caraway/cumin) and that creates this very 'grey' ashen effect a bit more cade, as apposed to the 'black' ash of a birch tar. (actually listed here though) So... The green element is not atypical of galbunum but it's definitely resinous, and I was surprised how different it was to Bel Repiro by Chanel (a perfume I know is one of Eugen's favourites) and Green Spell by Eris parfums (another green perfume from Antoine Lie) something I wouldn't have been a fool to expect. However, this is much more akin to 80's powerhouse men's perfumes and really brings to mind the potent, aromatic themes of Polo green, but it's like the best possible Polo green you could imagine, crafted with the finest materials. (I just noticed someone has compared it to Aliage by Estee Lauder which is a decent comparison too) The opening is actually VERY FLORAL for me, and I was a little perplexed when I started seeing reviews and chatter and no body mentioned just how floral this is throughout, but at the start especially. It's very wet, lush, but breezy I was thinking of gardenia, or cyclamen and of course this mildly indolic, waxen jasmine. This turned out to be tuberose! I'd be fascinated to smell the 'grand cru' used in this perfume because it has a very special quality, and that's one thing I love about tuberose, just how different it can be from origin/extraction method etc.... I actually got a friend to try this when it arrived and he ADORED the thing, saying he was immediately transported to a very posh, gentlemen's club bathroom, with green tiles, steam and shave soap, the slightly animalic whiff of sport sweat. And now to the bitter mossy and animalic/musky elements of the base which give that leather accord masses and masses of character IMHO. It was hyraceum, a unusual but not unexpected addition to this perfume and it forms a long, long lasting base which sticks to your skin with just the right amount of funk, and not a reliance on woody ambers or ambroxan or anything similar as a dominant single bit of trickery. This is a very naturalistic and well blended accord that isn't too stinky or anything but just hums away after a good 12 hours of everything else, the bitter woodiness, the florals etc....I genuine think this is a sublime fragrance and probably the best vision Lie has given us of what can be achieved when great ideas, fantastic materials and a respect for it's forbears, come together to create a respectful but modern hommage to man pong of days gone by. It's astoundingly good!

Des Cendres is one of those fragrances that deserves far more attention than it gets. If you're a fan of classic green powerhouses, this is absolutely worth exploring. From the first spray, I get a strong impression of an 80s-style masculine fragrance in the spirit of Polo Green, but reimagined for today. The pine tar, birch, and galbanum create a rugged, forested character, while touches of mint and leather keep it feeling fresh and wearable rather than dated. As it develops, a rich oakmoss base emerges, grounding everything with depth and elegance. The performance is outstanding—arguably what many vintage lovers wish their classics still delivered today. Powerful without feeling overwhelming, Des Cendres manages to project both strength and comfort simultaneously. Wearing it feels like taking a brisk walk through a dense pine forest, surrounded by towering trees and cool air. Antoine Lie has done an exceptional job with the composition, and the creative direction of founder Eugen is evident throughout. Anyone familiar with Eugen Nazic from U Smells Good knows his passion for timeless, complex perfumery and his appreciation for high-quality materials. That philosophy is woven into the DNA of Les Abstraits. Rather than chasing trends, the brand embraces the idea that perfume is an art form capable of expressing beauty, emotion, and individuality. Inspired by Eugen's connection to nature—trees, flowing water, wildlife, and the harmony found within the natural world—Des Cendres captures that feeling remarkably well. The use of exceptional materials, including natural extracts sourced through L'Atelier Français des Matières, only adds to its authenticity and character. This is a fragrance for those who appreciate classic perfumery but want something crafted with a modern sensibility. Green, smoky, resinous, and deeply evocative.

While La Douleur Exquise was, for me, a journey from puzzlement to love, Des Cendres turned out to be love followed by a touch of puzzlement. On my skin it opens intensely piney-very green and fresh-then gradually sweetens just a bit as the tuberose comes forward. Adding tuberose was a brilliant move (just as adding castoreum was in La Douleur). Tuberose is often associated with feminine fragrances-though I don’t care much for gendered distinctions, and I’d love to see a man confidently wear something like Moon Bloom-but here it’s used to tame the green facets, add depth, and bring a subtle hint of sweetness. It is by no means a sweet fragrance; instead, it’s savoury, verdant, and beautifully textured. It’s also a shapeshifter, so be sure to test it thoroughly-don’t buy it based on the very first impression. I love it in all its stages. Although it’s sometimes described as a masculine chypre, as a woman I wear it happily and without hesitation (as mentioned, gender distinctions only serve to limit us). The quality is truly excellent. All creations from Les Abstraits use fantastic materials. Lovers of iris should absolutely try Belle Âme. It’s not a profile I usually gravitate toward (or so I thought), yet I’m planning to pull the trigger on it for early spring. The quality is just insane.

I can honestly say that the first time I tried Des Cendres, I did not have a good impression. I think I smelled it too soon and too close. To my nose, it registered too tarry, incensey, and I couldn’t find anything redeeming that resonated with me. Months later, I spritzed it again, let it breathe, and then let the fragrance waft up to me versus sticking my nose right on it, and wow. Just wow. The pine and birch tar now formed the framework to showcase the leather, tuberose, vetiver, and patchouli that I missed the first time around. I never knew Polo that well to immediately recognize any correlation, but I can see how it may be in a similar vein, especially due to the pine. But this is different in a way that I wouldn’t even say is referential to Polo. Des Cendres exhibits a darker moodiness, rather than swarthiness, and layers of complexity that make it feel current even though there is a touch of something vintage, like from Robert Piguet Bandit, something to do with the mossy, green, and leather notes. I must re-smell Belle Âme and La Douleur Exquise again but it’s very possible that Des Cendres might be my favorite Les Abstraits. At least, for now.

Les Abstraits Des Cendres (2023) - spicy pine leather - #antoinelie with the direction of Eugen Nizic reminds me masculine-marketed perfumes of old. Bel Ami, Yatagan, Rien and Polo come to mind. Starts with Pine, green-grass Galbanum mixed with a Birch leather smell. In the background, I get florals: Rose, Jasmine and Violet leaf. This mainly added texture and not the star of the show. As it progresses, the heart becomes more leathery, animalic and smoky - dark, resinous and hay-like. I also get candle wax, camphor, and clove. It also becomes more earthy - Oakmoss and Patchouli. Persistent and sillage grows. Transitions are tight and well-constructed.