Des Cendres

{Full disclosure: Eugen is someone I consider a friend (not a 'brand' or 'collaborator' I'm certainly not being paid for this review) and very kindly sent me a bottle of this as he sites me as being instrumental in the initial phase of development of his brand and ideas about which direction to go in. (not that I was aware that's what was happening like) I'm extremely humbled that he gives me that credit, and I'm so glad things worked out so well ,and he got the quality and artistic integrity he was looking for, which is all down to Eugen's vision and I never doubted him for a minute!} Oh well.... Eugen's olfactory triptych is complete and what a way to finish in style. As much as I love Belle Ame with it's gorgeously opulent yet understated orris and tonka themes, and La douleur exquise exploded onto the scene with it's tearjerking emotional inspiration was a seemingly quite a mellow, rose/patchouli affair but actually is far more mysterious and spicy on skin & requires much more wear and thought than you initially think. However Des Cendres has to be my favourite of the lot, but what a bunch and what a set of bases to cover with such aplomb. Then we come to Des Cendres (ashes) and it's a really interesting contrast of the green and vibrant, the trad-masculine and the ashen, dry, leathered or smoky. I think to say this is a 'smoky' fragrance is overstating the smoke, and perhaps misleading, really doing something of a disservice to the cleverness with which the 'ashes' are deployed in this composition. The leathery accord is spiced slightly (to me it felt like coriander or celery seed even beloved caraway/cumin) and that creates this very 'grey' ashen effect a bit more cade, as apposed to the 'black' ash of a birch tar. (actually listed here though) So... The green element is not atypical of galbunum but it's definitely resinous, and I was surprised how different it was to Bel Repiro by Chanel (a perfume I know is one of Eugen's favourites) and Green Spell by Eris parfums (another green perfume from Antoine Lie) something I wouldn't have been a fool to expect. However, this is much more akin to 80's powerhouse men's perfumes and really brings to mind the potent, aromatic themes of Polo green, but it's like the best possible Polo green you could imagine, crafted with the finest materials. (I just noticed someone has compared it to Aliage by Estee Lauder which is a decent comparison too) The opening is actually VERY FLORAL for me, and I was a little perplexed when I started seeing reviews and chatter and no body mentioned just how floral this is throughout, but at the start especially. It's very wet, lush, but breezy I was thinking of gardenia, or cyclamen and of course this mildly indolic, waxen jasmine. This turned out to be tuberose! I'd be fascinated to smell the 'grand cru' used in this perfume because it has a very special quality, and that's one thing I love about tuberose, just how different it can be from origin/extraction method etc.... I actually got a friend to try this when it arrived and he ADORED the thing, saying he was immediately transported to a very posh, gentlemen's club bathroom, with green tiles, steam and shave soap, the slightly animalic whiff of sport sweat. And now to the bitter mossy and animalic/musky elements of the base which give that leather accord masses and masses of character IMHO. It was hyraceum, a unusual but not unexpected addition to this perfume and it forms a long, long lasting base which sticks to your skin with just the right amount of funk, and not a reliance on woody ambers or ambroxan or anything similar as a dominant single bit of trickery. This is a very naturalistic and well blended accord that isn't too stinky or anything but just hums away after a good 12 hours of everything else, the bitter woodiness, the florals etc....I genuine think this is a sublime fragrance and probably the best vision Lie has given us of what can be achieved when great ideas, fantastic materials and a respect for it's forbears, come together to create a respectful but modern hommage to man pong of days gone by. It's astoundingly good!

Des Cendres is one of those fragrances that deserves far more attention than it gets. If you're a fan of classic green powerhouses, this is absolutely worth exploring. From the first spray, I get a strong impression of an 80s-style masculine fragrance in the spirit of Polo Green, but reimagined for today. The pine tar, birch, and galbanum create a rugged, forested character, while touches of mint and leather keep it feeling fresh and wearable rather than dated. As it develops, a rich oakmoss base emerges, grounding everything with depth and elegance. The performance is outstanding—arguably what many vintage lovers wish their classics still delivered today. Powerful without feeling overwhelming, Des Cendres manages to project both strength and comfort simultaneously. Wearing it feels like taking a brisk walk through a dense pine forest, surrounded by towering trees and cool air. Antoine Lie has done an exceptional job with the composition, and the creative direction of founder Eugen is evident throughout. Anyone familiar with Eugen Nazic from U Smells Good knows his passion for timeless, complex perfumery and his appreciation for high-quality materials. That philosophy is woven into the DNA of Les Abstraits. Rather than chasing trends, the brand embraces the idea that perfume is an art form capable of expressing beauty, emotion, and individuality. Inspired by Eugen's connection to nature—trees, flowing water, wildlife, and the harmony found within the natural world—Des Cendres captures that feeling remarkably well. The use of exceptional materials, including natural extracts sourced through L'Atelier Français des Matières, only adds to its authenticity and character. This is a fragrance for those who appreciate classic perfumery but want something crafted with a modern sensibility. Green, smoky, resinous, and deeply evocative.

While La Douleur Exquise was, for me, a journey from puzzlement to love, Des Cendres turned out to be love followed by a touch of puzzlement. On my skin it opens intensely piney-very green and fresh-then gradually sweetens just a bit as the tuberose comes forward. Adding tuberose was a brilliant move (just as adding castoreum was in La Douleur). Tuberose is often associated with feminine fragrances-though I don’t care much for gendered distinctions, and I’d love to see a man confidently wear something like Moon Bloom-but here it’s used to tame the green facets, add depth, and bring a subtle hint of sweetness. It is by no means a sweet fragrance; instead, it’s savoury, verdant, and beautifully textured. It’s also a shapeshifter, so be sure to test it thoroughly-don’t buy it based on the very first impression. I love it in all its stages. Although it’s sometimes described as a masculine chypre, as a woman I wear it happily and without hesitation (as mentioned, gender distinctions only serve to limit us). The quality is truly excellent. All creations from Les Abstraits use fantastic materials. Lovers of iris should absolutely try Belle Âme. It’s not a profile I usually gravitate toward (or so I thought), yet I’m planning to pull the trigger on it for early spring. The quality is just insane.

I can honestly say that the first time I tried Des Cendres, I did not have a good impression. I think I smelled it too soon and too close. To my nose, it registered too tarry, incensey, and I couldn’t find anything redeeming that resonated with me. Months later, I spritzed it again, let it breathe, and then let the fragrance waft up to me versus sticking my nose right on it, and wow. Just wow. The pine and birch tar now formed the framework to showcase the leather, tuberose, vetiver, and patchouli that I missed the first time around. I never knew Polo that well to immediately recognize any correlation, but I can see how it may be in a similar vein, especially due to the pine. But this is different in a way that I wouldn’t even say is referential to Polo. Des Cendres exhibits a darker moodiness, rather than swarthiness, and layers of complexity that make it feel current even though there is a touch of something vintage, like from Robert Piguet Bandit, something to do with the mossy, green, and leather notes. I must re-smell Belle Âme and La Douleur Exquise again but it’s very possible that Des Cendres might be my favorite Les Abstraits. At least, for now.

Les Abstraits Des Cendres (2023) - spicy pine leather - #antoinelie with the direction of Eugen Nizic reminds me masculine-marketed perfumes of old. Bel Ami, Yatagan, Rien and Polo come to mind. Starts with Pine, green-grass Galbanum mixed with a Birch leather smell. In the background, I get florals: Rose, Jasmine and Violet leaf. This mainly added texture and not the star of the show. As it progresses, the heart becomes more leathery, animalic and smoky - dark, resinous and hay-like. I also get candle wax, camphor, and clove. It also becomes more earthy - Oakmoss and Patchouli. Persistent and sillage grows. Transitions are tight and well-constructed.

@SinisterFinister x2! No matter what there will always be sour people in our world who are jealous of someone else's success. Meme fragrances shouldn't even be allowed to be voted on like they are. Eugen is an absolute treasure amongst our fragrance community. He is a true fragrance connoisseur in every sense of the word and anybody who has followed his journey knows this. Eugen and another youtuber, Ramsey, are some of the select few that when/if they decided to create a fragrance everyone should take notice. Congratulations, Eugen, on another release!! I know how long you've worked on this and I can't wait to get my nose on it!

The moment I smelled this, I knew it was my Pied Piper scent ... the scent I'd follow if I smelled it regardless of who was wearing it. I'd follow them outside and deep into the forest where they live. This fragrance lives deep in the woods. It’s pine tar and other resins, cistus, green herbs, grass, and oakmoss. It’s wearing leather and has bits of vetiver hidden in its pockets. It's just lovely. Does it skew masculine? Yes. Do I care as a non-masculine person? No. I absolutely love it. Now, I understand why this fragrance house can exist by making only three fragrances when this is one of them. It has me under its spell.

Des Cendres Five stars. Will get you noticed. Not for introverts. Des Cendres is a beautiful green, woody and slightly smoky fragrance. It’s got a touch of tuberose which is at once bubble gum and camphor. I see this as a masculine scent. It’s not as smoky as the reviews make it out to be. I think given current fragrances trends and how unisex most releases are this is a pleasant celebration of the macho male with hair on his chest. A fragrance even Tony Soprano could wear.

Purchased a full bottle of La Douleur Exquise and a sample of this fragrance was included. I loved it from the first time I smelled it. Purchased a full bottle as well now. To me this is a masculine, green, and woody scent. The quality of ingredients used seems top notch. It also lasted a long time on my skin. I tried it next to both Belle Ame and La Douleur Exquise and I could still smell it the next day. The other two did not last that long. Fantastic fragrance. 5/5.

BEAUTIFUL green, woody with a right kiss of floral, oakmoss and leather. Everything is just perfect! when wearing this, I pictured myself walking in the woods breathing in fresh air. Soothing and calming to the max! I love it! Performance is also great. I sprayed 4 sprays 8am in the morning and I could still get whiffs of it at the end of my work day. I will sample the other 2 in the line and make my purchase of a full bottle 🥰🥰🥰.

I knew immediately after opening the discovery set and smelling the vials that this one was going to be something else. It's beautiful. It gives me the feeling of being outdoors, smelling the trees (bark, wood, resins, leaves and flowers). Unfortunately, the dry-down is soooo hairy chested old school masculine on me that I'm not able to wear it.

Des Cendres feels alive and evolves beautifully. I notice something new every time I wear it. I love the drydown so much that I sometimes put it on at night so I can wear the drydown the next day. This bottle will probably last my whole life, but it’s the only thing I’ve considered backing up.

This has officially moved into my Top 5. Just an incredible fragrance! This is that green fragrance I feel I have been searching for. I feel honored to own something so lovely! Thank you, Eugen and Mr. Lie!

The green, leathery, woody, mossy, minty tuberose you didn't know you needed. Complex, with lots of twists and turns from top to dry down, with a glorious vintage feel and stellar performance. I want!!!

This incredible. If you are looking for a new version of the original Polo, look no further. This and Soundain l'Hiver from Henry Jacques are the best reinterpretation of this great classic. 5 out 5.

this is my most fave of the three from Eugine ́s line ... probably my most fave green fragrance of all time! haven ́t smelled anything so nicely blended/crafted !!!! hats off !!!

Opens very similar to Girl by CdG (also by Lie) but then the pine comes in, and the complexity develops, and it becomes grown up, rich and sensual. Wonderful.

to me, the most favorite from all of three in the line .... this is hi quality freshy greenness ... refined, timeless elegance and quality

If you want a better version of the current polo green-you have found it.

Sunshine man toned down by 60%, just a better version it’s a banger 👊👊👊

oh.my.god. Galbanum&oakmoss heaven, a marvellous fragrance!

Beautiful green fragrance. 10/10

Banger that’s all just a banger

I tried this for a full day on its own, then next day wearing modern Devin to compare as it's been voted pretty high as a likeness. I get why people picked Devin as a reminds me of it's kind of in the same ballpark genre even in its modern form, but there are some very big differences here. (edit: yatagan is probably a closer match). The open that leads into the more bitter and spiced herbal elements is essentially what Des Cendres is doing too, but Des Cendres isn't really an old school "mens floral chypre" at all, wheras Devin is chock full of carnation. But underneath you can see that Devin is heading in the same direction as Des Cendres. Anyway, stunning opening on Des Cendres, artemisia isn't noted but I suppose the tuberose and pine elements are what gives off the creamy bitter herbal element here. I also get a lot of smoke and charred mint in the open, which reminded me a bit of Burning Barbershop at first but that was fleeting. As Des Cendres dries it's quite a bit different than your Devin old school mens chypres type affair, it's more literal it's cloves and sticky smokey resins through and through for me. Very woody, ashy, spicy and balsamic and reminiscent of the forest (and some echoes of Amouage Memoir Man here) but I don't get a massive amount of leather other than the ashyness, or much of the animalic aspects personally, but then I don't think I'm hyper sensitive to Hyrax like some may be. So, this is where it loses me a bit. Belle Ame and especially La Douler Exquise are not literal they are something more, they evoke more fanciful thought and give more room for exploration but Des Cendres while clearly very good ingredients and maybe does a good chunk of what the brief says, just doesn't spark up the same level of emotion in me; Maybe you had to be there.

Disclaimer: I have no relationship or connection with the owner of the brand just reviewing my true experience With that thing out of the way let me start by saying this fragrance is an incredible one To sum it up with few words It’s green - mossy - fougere - ashy - a little smoky The transitions of the scent are remarkable as well you can tell it’s made of very good quality ingredients l enjoyed wearing it and I can easily say it sits very close with my personal greatest fougere’s of all times such as Cartier pasha BUT there is always a but The price is above average for fougers that’s why I gave it a pass until I review the second one

Starts with a strong dose of galbanum and mint, then settles down to something more mossy, leathery (IBQ) and tarry (the ashtray kind), with the characteristic stale sh*ttiness of hyraceum persisting through its duration. The florals give it the necessary airiness in the drydown. The opening actually smells quite pungent, so you need to let this sit for at least 15 minutes in order to evaluate it better. Minimal sweetness, if any. Overall, it's quite daring and not a lot of people will find it wearable, however, it is definitely well made. If foresty, ashy scents are your thing, I can see how this could be bottle-worthy for you.

Smoky, ashy, wear this when you're outside by the campfire. This is perfect for when you want to smell more unique like the last dying embers of a burning campfire with ash, and a hint of green forest surrounding you. This smells quite nice once it settles on your skin, compared to smelling it from the bottle. Although this is masculine leaning, I like that it doesn't have that undercurrent of 'dirty man' that some masculine fragrances have. The bottle has a nice feel and the cap is weighted and magnetic, which adds a nice touch.

Freshly cut grass, bright and green, then herbal, wrapped in sweet violet-tuberose that leans more indolic than floral. Leather arrives early and vetiver follows closely, before everything melts into a creamy, musky and mossy base with just enough funk to feel a bit dirty, a bit furry. From there, it drifts along for hours dancing a two-step of clean woods and grubby leather, each sniff a coin toss between easy, crowd-pleasing loveliness and something far less polite.

Green, fresh, woodsy, masculine and spicy. Some leather and animalic facets. Springtime in a bottle with niche quality to boot. A scent that makes a statement while remaining balanced and not too loud. If you're looking for a men's Spring fragrance and want something classy, I highly recommend this. If I could add anything to this great scent, I would consider some lemon, pepper, incense, elemi, rosewood or Hinoki wood. Daywear and office friendly

This is similar to polo green and micaleff redcolorado.... Very green and pine centric. Not an easy wear fragrance but it is addictive. I feel like this is the scent profile of a lumberjack in the Canadian wilderness.

This has that TF Vert Des Bois feel...green, wet, dark, pine, pine and more pine. This is forest in a bottle. Again, world class quality, no doubt. Blend is superb. This is for older gentlemen who know how to dress.

TBH this perfume feels dated. Yes it is amazing how the Pine tar, leather and Galbanum can marry into a strong yet refreshing fragrance but I feel the overall scent composition and how the perfume progress is on the retrospective side. The oakmoss backbone is also not very pronounced. Longevity and sillage is good.

I was so excited to try this one. I've worn it 5 times now and I just dont get it. Smells very unappealing to me. It smells like your neighbors house caught on fire; burned 3/4 of the way down then the fire department came and put out the fire. You are standing next to the house smelling the Burned and charred wood. This isn't logs on a fireplace or throwing spruce branches on a roaring camp fire. Its straight up a 2x4 on fire that's been put out with water and the smoke is what you are wearing as a fragrance. Not for me, and I love incense and Smokey frags. 1/10

If I had to name a favorite active perfumer, I'd be hard pressed to choose between Antoine Lie and Karine Vinchon-Spehner. And as fate would have it, I'm currently sitting at my computer wearing two nearly identical fragrances: Lie's "Des Cendres" from Les Abstraits on my left wrist and Vinchon-Spehner's "Memoir Man" from Amouage on my right. These are both fantastic fragrances; but with subtle differences. Here is my tandem review (to be posted under both). Des Cendres--or "From the Ashes" if vague memories of high school French class serve--is aptly named. Its foundation is rich, dark, and smoky with underpinnings of birch tar and pine tar. Oakmoss, leather, (subtle) hyraceum, and patchouli give further support to the top notes of violet, tuberose, and (even subtler) mint. I describe the scent pyramid in this order because I really feel that the perfume presents itself this way--you are plunged immediately into a dense smoky fog from which the lighter and more fragrant notes gradually emerge....from the ashes, as it were. Memoir Man is the flip-side of this experience--that is--a much more conventional journey: The top notes of wormwood, mint, and basil guide you gently into the rosy, resinous mid-section and--gradually--you are immersed into the base notes of leather, oakmoss, vetiver, and a melange of smoky woods. Both fragrances are brilliant but neither is blind-buy safe; office-safe maaaaybe; not really restaurant-safe unless it's a steakhouse or casual dining (especially barbecue). Performance is similar (i.e., robust longevity, mild projection and sillage). Either could be bottle worthy, but you really don't need one if you already have the other. If you favor a bottom-heavy, darker, smokier, and more brooding scent then I would recommend Des Cendres wholeheartedly. If you prefer a slightly more well-rounded and aromatic profile (which includes a medicinal mint-wormwood note; and is still plenty dark, brooding, and smoky), then Memoir is your Man. I already own Memoir, so I'm skipping Des Cendres (albeit with a due tip of the cap to Antoine Lie and the Les Abstraits team). However, if the situation were reversed, I would gladly maintain Des Cendres in my regular rotation (alongside La Douleur Exquise and Belle Ame from the same house, as well as various fragrances by Amouage). Memoir Man and Des Cendres are equally impressive interpretations of a similar theme by two genuine masters of perfumery. It all comes down to your own particular preference. Des Cendres: 9/10 Memoir Man: 9/10

A walk through a damp dusky forest at first day break. Sun penetrates through the thick towering pines. Ash from the smoke of last nights campfire permeates the air. Eyes closed and a deep breath, catharsis. I am transported to my youth walking with my brothers and father exploring the great smoky mountains. Dense fog guides us through thick foliage as the wet earth beneath our feet crackles and separates. A moment frozen in time captured, revisited through sensory experience. “A beautiful perfume is the one which gives us a shock: a sensory one followed by a psychological one." Edmond Roudnitska Des cendres captures this sentiment perfectly, packing a punch right out the gate on initial application. A homage to classic masculinity. Tweed smoking jacket with leather patches, corduroy trousers, and a wool flat cap. Reminiscent of polo green, cosmair and Warner respectively. Shades of aramis Devin and quorum, Tom Fords Italian Cyprus floris 1962. Rugged yet refined. An old soul would appreciate and find comfort in this creation Priced accordingly and quite fair considering a market of endless saturation and little character. Recommended for all, best suited for 30+. All seasons and occasions. Cool spring/summer nights, cold and chilly fall/winter nights. Definitely the stand out from the line for me, instantly resonated. Grab samples and support these kinds of creations. Fragrances today lack character and personality creating a disconnects leading to dust collectors on shelf’s. Les abstraits invites you into the world of its creator by sharing a story of shared experience. One in which we all can relate and take something of value.

Green as ever, it is not come as a surprise if people get those late '70s vibes and associate it to Polo Green (1978) by Carlos Benaim. But...but there is an important twist of contemporary modernity to it. I often saw Des Cendres described as an alpha-male scent. Let me dissent; this composition is about solitude, is about getting lost with one's own thoughts in the deepest and most secretive recess of a forest. On the margin, the smokiness of a bondfire; an unoppressive birch tar note set the theme: From the ashes, I resurge. Deeply balsamic with the pine and invigorating and slightly bitter with the mint and a good dose of cloves, I breath all the green undertones of galbanum (it is the note that is most evident). Lurking arund this greeness, there is a touch of tuberose: mind you, it is quite green, a little bit camphoraceous and meets the galbanum and I crack a smile; violet leaf in tandem try to elevates all the composition with its ozonic feel. The scent rest on a base of woods and moss. This is a scent profile that helps me connecting with my inner self. No. no alpha-maleness. Just the perfume that Thoreau's Walden would have weared. Consider following me on IG @alexolympia6

Ignore Luca Turin on this one. Certainly not a masterpiece and Lie's best by any stretch but most definitely not a 'chemical mess' as he clumsily described. Not that Galbanum is the only player here but it is the main player, and with that in mind, I would much rather opt for Liz Moores' Dryad, a brighter, more floral and clearer nod to green chypres of old. I like the leathery, soapy and meditative qualities of Des Cendres but not enough to buy it and nowhere near enough to opt for it over the Papillon.

This is the winner between the three fragrances currently offered. It's masculine and makes a statement in the right way. It also goes through multiple transitions throughout the wearing experience. I think the top notes are the most alluring, transitioning into a sharp pine-sol scent, and then finally settling into a delightful smoldering campfire aroma. Side note: The wafting of this fragrance in the air is addictive. I'm thoroughly enjoying the experience of it. This is full bottle worthy.

I own it and I like it, but I don't love it. The materials are great, it smells nice, it performs like an extrait - projection is quite close after about 2 hours, but it will last on your skin for days. Dark, foresty, moody, a bit ashy. Living in dry, warm Los Angeles, I often find it to be too sweet. The tuberose does add brightness, but I would have loved if this was just a bit airier.

Beautiful Old World style fragrance. I wonder why nobody sees the compairson to 1872 Men by Clive Christian. Especially in the base they really similar. Maybe this one is even better due to better performance. Raw materials are top notch. Signatue for a Gentleman, all year round. Old money.

The usual clowns with their "hilarious" comparisons distorting what should be a useful means of discerning how a fragrance smells. Weed them out and ban them, surely wouldn't be difficult to identify these morons

Antoine's work is really amazing, his knowledge of natural RM ,coming from Roure perfumery school is what made his creation so special ! Well done Antoine!

It's so well made, like everything from this house. It's not something I would wear but would love to smell it on someone else.

A somewhat rare find to buy.. Would anyone in the UK have some to share/ sell as a decant?

Animalic leather is the ride. Naughty boys and girls need only apply.